Messick's continues to excel at clear and concise info regarding the Kubota lineup and Neil is a star. Go nowhere else. I bought an L2501 and absolutely love this machine. But, I've found that it's a tad too big for my hobby gardening and I'm considering a trade for the smaller B series now that the heaviest work is complete. This was a terrific comparison.
L-2501,i run 50 inch tiller,60 inch bushog squealer,72 inch finish mower,lift full buckets of granular A,topsoil,all kinds of loader work,cut and haul firewood pulling a ton,Great utility tractor.The larger frame also gives ground clearance over certain estate models for bush work.I love my L 2501.The old lady,then the dog,then the tractor,in that order.
What a helpful video! Neil is correct that the Kubota model types and number ranges can be difficult to sort through. Although this video is 5 years old at the time of my comment, it’s still so relevant. I thought the B series was where I was coming out, but this video helped me to understand why I wasn’t gravitating toward an L series. It was especially enlightening to learn about the overlap of horse power between these series, and even a sobering talk on how to really weigh what horse power is appropriate for the intended task. Lucky me… I recently bought a house 2 miles from Messick’s new location in Mount Joy!
I am very fortunate to have a L3200 gear drive for food plots and discing. And I just got a B2301 loader tractor! The perfect tractor combinations for projects on my 80 acres. I have never been disappointed in any of the Kubota products I've had going back decades.
Your videos are excellent bro! Very helpful and informative. I’m torn between a B and L series but now erring on the L for its wider front track and oomph. Shame you’re not in the UK.
Great job in your comparisons! I really wish I were in your area, the local/regional Kubota dealer(s) here don't seem to......know their products that well. I really believe the issue(s) of one brand of tractor against another brand is the knowledge of the seller about their product, about it's capabilities, and the best applications of it's features. Love your vlog...keep em' coming!
The b2301 . Talk about a perfect tractor. Hp is good, loader capacity is good, and still light enough to drive on a lawn. Match all that with those new r14 tires. Perfect combo.
Superb, useful, and honest description and summary of needs and uses. Great clarification of class sizes and horsepower and overlap of classes and power. Thank you for very much.
I would like to post a comment I made on another video hopefully it will help some of you're customers so here goes. There's always going to be customer preference and I'm no different. Whilst I was looking and trying to decide what tractor to purchase it took me 18 months of researching brands such as John Deere, Yanmar, Mahindra, New Holland, Kioti, Bobcat, Kubota, Lovol Flotan, Massey Ferguson, Case, Zeto and McCormic. Anyways after months and months of looking around dealership after dealership asking questions driving salesmen crazy we where able to narrow it down to two brands Massey and Kubota. In the end Kubota won out. Why? Overall better build quality, heavier implements in my case a backhoe attachment and 4 in 1 combination front bucket with the third function valve set up for the bucket clam action. Both come with the top line 3 point hitch but Kubota had heavier lift capacity on the rear hitch and front end loader. The model we chose was L4240 HST Hydrostatic and this machine is unbelievable what it is capable of doing. The hoe is the BH92 with an 11 foot dig depth and insane ground breaking force and over 3000lb lift capacity. This machine has pushed down trees with 10" thick trunks at the base and then picked them up with the front clam bucket. Never let us down surpassed all expectations. Great fuel usage can work it's ass off for a full 10 hour shift before filling up. You can speed up or slow down front loader cycle times for faster into and out of the dirt pile and fast lift to dump into a truck. It really can't be beat and I know from years of experience operating heavy earth moving equipment the other brands would have failed me purely by the material used in their buckets and attachments no way as heavy as the Kubota. So here we are, I'm 66 and retired, had the machine since 2011 and will never part with unless we move to a larger property and decide to go bigger with the equipment. It has very low speed cruise control for slow tilling barely creeps along. Try other brands and watch the front end loaders twist or buckets bend and crack seams. Mahindra is the worst, look and feel like they are made from baked bean cans. I was at one point almost sold on a New Holland Boomer special model that was made to look like an old style 1930's or 40's model Ford 8N but after more research and talking to owners they talked me out of it as the tractor was loaded with sensors that kept going wonky and where in the shop more than the fields nice looking though very nostalgic. Anyways that's my two cents worth. Just do your due diligence. Lots of stuff out there is rebranded crap. Don't pay extra for green paint please, it ain't worth it and the Kubota will leave them in the dust guaranteed. I offer this from my own personal findings and usage. I am not paid or receive anything from anyone for this review. Good luck if your searching. One quick note, don't waste time checking out different Kubota dealerships for better pricing. Prices are set by Kubota and most dealerships have their own areas and will not sell to you if there is one closer to your address. That's their policy. Don't have buyers remorse. Get the size and HP tractor you need. Better to have more HP than you need than to find out after the tractor is to small. My property is only 3.5 acres but had lots of old building, busted and rotten fences and dead trees to clean out. The driveway is 200 feet long and snow can be a problem especially when it drifts over three feet deep. I could not have got done with a smaller machine, extremely happy with my choice and the brand. We had to buy new as there was no good used ones around. Apparently once sold they disappear into a blackhole. People won't sell them on and hang onto them forever it seems. Oh and one last thing don't buy grey market Kubota tractor. Kubota won't sell you parts if needed. Something to do with Japanese farmer policy and American imports of used tractors from Japan but that's a different topic for another day. Good luck and go Orange all the way.
Question Neil: for moving an 8000lb 26ft boat/trailer (400lb tongue weight), turning sharply 90 degrees to back the rig into a 9ft wide garage, with a slight incline on crushed concrete (sand base), what size and power machine do you recommend? BTW, I really like your informative videos -- it's obvious there's not much nepotism in the Messick family -- kudos to your grandparents and parents for teaching their kids about a strong work ethic, something that's getting harder to find these days.
This gets to be sketchy stuff, as tractors are typically not given tow ratings. A Big-B series is as small as you'd probably want... but if you get any inertia from that trailer pushing you'll want all the tractor you can get. We have a large marina as a customer and they run all 70-Hp utility tractors.
I have a similarly sized 24-foot, 8k lb camper, and I can definitely move it around with my B7610 (older, but equivalent size to a B2650), as long as I keep it in low gear range, and go really slow. I fill up the loader bucket first, so that the tractor is well ballasted, and my rear tires are loaded. But even with 4WD, loaded rear tires, and a full bucket, I wouldn't risk taking it down a steep incline on loose gravel...it's only a ~2K lb machine, and at some point physics take over. I also have an L5740, which is a much more appropriate tractor for moving a camper of this size: there is zero pucker factor when using the L tractor: it's just a more appropriate machine for the task.
What is the difference in the front tie rod configuration. On the L series, the tie road form a V and on the b series or larger tractor the tie rods run in parallel with the axle. Any advantage or disadvantage of one over the other. Seems like the L Series would be more prone to hitting objects and becoming damaged.
Would you do a video to compare the B2650 and L2501 specifically. Price points are so close. What would be the better for who, knowing this is subjective.
Will that B series run a 5 or 6 foot brush cutter? I have a BX2370 but it will only handle a 4 foot brush cutter and that's just to small,we will be cutting about 12 acres,since we bought the BX we have moved from Ohio to Florida and now own more land and now need a brush cutter but we want just one tractor to mow the lawn and run a brush cutter, the wife wants to stay with a mid mount mower deck, she does all the mowing.
Awesome video thank you I just recently purchased 10 acres and I’m in the market for a tractor those are my two choices not sure what to go with yet though
I would not call the L series the economy offering. It is more of the rugged utility machine built heavy for a purpose. The B series is built just heavy enough to be useful while the L is built to take hard work. I bought an L2501 because it doesn't have the pollution control crap on it. I didn't need a lawn mower I needed a tractor and I have no regrets buying the L2501.
I’ve watched this video very nice. I’m looking to run a 68/72” flail mower what would do the best ? I have 7 acres to maintain basically looking maybe down rd getting a tiller also.
While horsepower may not make a difference on the same loader in regard to lift capacity, it likely will make a difference for driving the bucket into a pile of material.
If you have a hydrostatic transmission, there is a difference but not as much as you might guess. The relief pressure is the same regardless of engine HP.
I’m an electrical contractor and hardcore DIYer. I’m looking for a tractor that can handle a long hours of backhoe trench digging but can also do occasional grading and yard work. I’ve watched tons of your videos but still can figure out if a B series or L series is right for me. I also want to keep the total tractor weight under 10,000LBS. To make hauling convenient. I’m really stuck as to what’s best. Any suggestions? Thanks
You know what both of these tractors need? More warning stickers all over the loaders. I realize most of these are written in blood but damn. At some point they are starting to take away my lift capacity.
Hi Tim, I just saw your question and that you didn't get much of an answer. A mid PTO is under the tractor in front of the rear axle and it faces forward. It is used for running a mid mount (belly) mower deck, or a front mounted snow blower. Hope this answers your question.
Hydraulic top link. Rear blade with hydraulic angle. Three point snow blower with hydraulic adjustable chute. Three point log splitter. Dump trailer that uses the hydraulics of the tractor. They plug into the remote. And how about a backhoe. How can you say not much? And no mention of a backhoe? You can also use a rear remote to power loader attachments, like a grapple. Or even a hydraulic adjustable chute on a front mounted snow blower. I guess some people can find a use from other people’s not much.
Kubotas line up includes a B series B2320 I believe it was. There are 2 versions. 1 is a narrow version with a Hydro static Trans. The other I s a geared trans. Any dealer could order it, byt it would have to be ordered. check kubotas web page.
Why not Mine does a great job. Runs a 50 inch tiller like it isn't there. We have very heavy soils in my area. I really think Kubota under rates the HP on the 2501
So they can release a product that can't safely lift the capacity it says it will? I realize that's at the pivot point but it still has to be able to do it safely.
Justin Rumbley I didn't say it wasn't safe, I said not as safely. Look at the weight on both machines. The amount of counterbalance needed on the B to lift the listed weight would be quite a bit. I'm sure Kubota has it figured out that it's safe when properly ballasted but the L series will always do it with more stability and less wear.
Messick's its a link to the video I commented on 😂. I meant specifically the L2501 capabilities, it seems like a lot of people compare the two due to emissions
@@MessicksEquip I'm trying to decide between a B2650 and an L2501. I've got 10 acres that needs lots of fallen trees cleaned up and some rocks moved, along with a little bit of ground scraping to flatten out a pad for a small barn.
these tractors anything like my 20something kubota lawn mower get one i say to anyone that needs one, parts cost more but you will not likely to need any
I just wanted a bit of fun. Sorry about that. I am a rice farmer in Thailand and this is the tractor I use along with Kubota combine harvester and other equipment. I like your videos that's why I commented. I was about to change to John Deere but after watching your video I'm glad I didn't. Thanks for the help. Don't you have the big brothers, 50 and 60 series in the US?
what?no heated seats,parking assist nor even AC? not even the option for a CD stacker and you call it Deluxe? How the hell am I gonna turn this into a low riding chick magnet, I don't want to buy from someone that doesn't even offer alloy wheels
I'm a green guy but a nabor gave me his b seires and broke the front axle in half and I'm only 14 I'm very rough on things . But never broke a John Deere.
Maybe you shouldnt be operating a tractor if youre that rough on them. Im 24 and I have driven everything and never broke an axle. We operate anywhere between 30 horse and 300 horse.
funny who knows what the neighbor did before and if it already had a crack.. who knows.. but in general it is a really really good idea to not be rough on things especially if you didn´t pay for them..
