I had the same leak on my 1986 L2550. The repair was a snap after watching your video. All I really did different, not having anyone to hold it up to tap the case back on, was to make a shimmed base for a small bottle jack, so it was pushing the same direction that it needed to go, and it went right on. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for leaving a Great Comment Jerry!! Good luck with the fix. The Front Axle Wheel Case can be a little intimidating the first time but ... You Got This! Cheers
Outstanding job creating this video. I have the complete service manual but your production was way more practical. The hardest part for me was getting the old seal out, after a few hours of spraying and prying I finally had to cut it; never had that kind of trouble with a seal before. I'm far from service in the remote wilds of BC so I can't thank you enough. We're up and running without the leak.
Down here in VT-Just did my new-to me L2850 hub seals- your video was incredibly helpful. Very Much appreciated! I added a little Loctite gasket maker/flange seal to the seal/case interfaces just to make damn sure they didn't leak. Thank God I did the service- when I cracked the drain plugs straight water came out!
Hey Alexander, How's life in VT? It's nice to hear you tackled those Hub seals. You saved yourself a ton of money doing the work yourself. You also prevented a bigger, more expensive repair by getting rid of the water in there. I like to think about how much money I saved doing a job like this because it motivates me to do more work myself. The other thing that motivates me is hearing comments like yours. Thanks, I like helping people. Congrats Alexander, You're Rocking it!!
Hey that's great Jack!! The more successful repairs you complete the more confidence you'll have to take on bigger more complicated repairs in the future....and the more savings. I'm glad my video helped :)
My L3750 leaks at the hubs. Parts are obsolete.At the dealers suggestion I drained the gear oil and filled the reservoirs with corn head grease. No more leaks. I'm a believer. thanks for the video.
Excellent video wouldn't have attempted without seeing this .I left out the silicone just cleaned and replaced the o ring .Thanks for the video saved me money and downtime.
This video is EXACTLY what I was looking for! I have the L2250 and have the same seal leak issue. I have the parts here, and will be doing the repair this week! I will have your video handy as I am going through the steps. Thanks again for posting this.
Hey Brad, Yeah, our tractors are very similar. I had a lot of fun with the repair. Thanks for watching and the comments. You'll save a ton of $ and have some fun along the way. Cheers!
Excellent. I have the same year and model Kubota, leaking at the same seal. Found your video, now confident I can handle this job. Will order parts soon.
Great video I have L3240, couple weeks ago noticed wet mark on my garage floor coming from the same area. Going to tackle the job myself, just have to pick up a pair of snap ring pliers. 👍👍
I have a ‘87 L2550 with the exact same problem, surprisingly came across your video of your ‘86 and if it wasn’t for the video you did in detail I’d be screwed but I got new seals, O rings and bottom caps for both sides, did the job the same way you did it and it came out perfect. Thank You for doing the video and for the details throughout!
Alex Tagata Hey Alex, Thanks for leaving a comment. Yeah, I like Kubota and will keep pumping out the videos. We Can’t Let Her Die...and I love doing the DIY on Kubotas
Great Video! I'll be attempting the same thing on my 1986 L2850 this week which has a cracked front right Axle Case housing and has been operated without oil sounding like a bad CV joint on a front wheel drive car. I've removed the Beveled gear case and the axle case so i'll separate the the two at the seal that you replaced. Thanks for all the details being left in the video. I like the MasterCraft Seal Installation Kit, I'm looking for one of those ;-)).
That seal is confuseing,In the picture that came with it, it looks like the seal is rubber side up.It's metal side up and the other metal seal sits inside it,put that in with your fingers.The job is much easier with the whole knuckel off and on a bench.About 60 pounds all together.But once you catch the dowel pins you can draw it in slowly to mesh the gears from the axel. I have lots of pictures if you need a better look.It looks like good cast iron so it should braze pretty easy.Good Luck.
Thanks for the great video. Until watching your video, didn't realize that there was a ring at the top of the spindle that had to be removed. Question: After trying to reassemble the wheel assembly for about two hours, the stainless steel dust cover ring was flattened. Wondering if since it has flattened, will it still work as intended, since it originally had an arch to it. I didn't know if the dust cover ring formed to fit upon assembly. Checked the ring with dial calipers and the inside and outside diameters are still the same. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Wow...that was a tonne of fun. I was impressed with how new the gears looked inside the bevelled gear and axle cases. The re-engineered seal appears to be like the 6 million dollar man, Steve Austen...'We've made him Bigger, Stronger and Faster" (ok...maybe not faster ...faster is where that analogy breaks down :)
you all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Dominik Magnus thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Man, what a great thorough video. I have wached several and yours is by far the best. Loved the "seal installation kit", when you first pulled out the box i thought great, another tool to buy and then you showed us the kit! Haha. Thanks for your help.
wouldnt happen to have a video doing the rear axle seal? Mine is leaking and I have let all the bolts go on the housing but it still doesnt seem to want to come apart. wondering if I'm missing a bolt or just need to start banging on it to break the seal???
I find it easier to pull the bevel gear case off the differential case and take it to the workbench. Cost you a couple extra seals but rebuilding it is easier
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to provide clear instruction and keeping the camera rolling so we could see all aspects of the job. When you were prying the oil seal out of the housing, you mentioned applying pressure to the right spot (36:23). Was the "right spot" underneath the seal against the bearing, or between the seal and the housing?
Torch Hey Torch, I worked the seal up from all sides evenly, patiently between the seal and housing to pull it away from the housing. Then I started applying an upward pressure by prying underneath the seal by leveraging against the opposite side housing ....I could see it moving up and out slightly , evenly and then it just popped out suddenly cause I was applying an upward force in the right spot. ... after working it loose. Not really a specific spot. It will pop when it’s ready. I hope that helps Pal! Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and ring the bell Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thank you! I have an old L2350DT and the original oil seal was the same as yours, with the additional metal cap (shown at 51:20 in your video) that I had to pry down off the shaft. Your video was extremely helpful! I'm now subscribed to your channel and look forward to anything else that you post on Kubota maintenance/repairs!
@@torch9937 Thanks for the comment and subscription! I like hearing how my video helped someone out. It's really nice to hear. I'll have more Kubota videos coming. My Kubota doesn't break down much...but now that I said that...I'll probably have it break in half (Ha) L2350DT...that's a nice machine!
Thank you by far the best video I’ve seen!!! Very helpful, just having trouble with the c clips. The ones I got are a joke and it’s hard these days to find good tools. Suggestions on where to get good c clip pliers?
Thanks Very Much! Yeah, you really need them for that job. I got mine at Princess Auto. A set of four c clip pliers. Really came in handy on the bevelled gear c clips. Good luck and please click the bell and subscribe Cheers!
So at 28:36 do you really need to knock that bearing down or can you just take the snap ring off, then proceed to remove the entire bevel gear housing?
Great video! I have a LA 2350 DT Do you think it takes the same seals as your. I hadn’t look them up. Please let me know about the seals. Again a real helpful video, thanks
Hey There ituneipods, It is hard to say for sure. I would not want to guess. I would call your Kubota dealer and have them look it up for you. The process to replace them should be similar but to be sure you could ask Kubota to print off the installation instructions and compare them to my video. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thanks for your fast reply. I’m going to get started on this job next week. I’ll let you know how it turns out. I don’t expect any problems doing the job after watching your video. It will be a big help, thanks
@@cantletherdiediy1050 Thanks. I gotta tear my front left axle down on my L2250 to find out why my front left wheel is locking up after moving forward a few feet or so. I hope it is just a bad bearing and that I can get a new one and the o-ring etc. quickly.
If your wheel is locking up it is definitely a wheel bearing thats fell apart.My drivers wheel just did it.Ive replaced the right side 6 years ago.My seals are leaking and water is getting into the cases of my L2650gst too. Pop the bottom seal on very bottom of the axel to drain the axel completely. Good luck.
@@peterwill3699 Mine has turned out to be a nightmare. There was no seal on the bottom and there has not been any oil inside for who knows how long? I have managed to get the axle housing off and partially apart. I found that the housing has rusted through in an area just above where the seal would be and plus there is lots of rust inside therefore a major pain to get parts out. I am surprised it has been rolling at all. I have tried to find a used axle housing but no luck. Once I get it apart I am going to try to have the rust hole repaired then de rust the inside and try to put all new bearings and seals etc. and hope for the best.
