Dude, this was one of the most practical videos I’ve watched on van builds, and I’ve watched hundreds of videos. You really influenced my upcoming build. Thanks for the video.
Good comparison. I’ve been using Unistrut/kendorf/superstrut for 30 years. Its infinitely adjustable, muuuuuch cheaper and supports more weight In our warehouses (3) and vans (prob 50 over the years), I’ve never primed and painted the cut ends, and it never created anything more than surface rust. No degradation in use and no “creep” under the ionization. Also, 10 mins of effort, and you can create custom holders for anything. The game changer was replacing the “strut nuts” with “cone nuts.”
I’m guessing you’re cost comparison does not include the extra fuel you use driving your vans around with Unistrut. 80/20 is infinitely adjustable too. Just because almost no one building vans knows how to properly use 8020 t-slot extrusion to take advantage of its features doesn’t mean it should’ve been left out of the comparison
Use unistrut for years when I did construction. Lots of kits that put things framed up well. Got steel to weld and galvanized not to weld poison fumes.
Why did you not show aluminum strut channel? It comes with holes, slots, solid backing. 12 and 14 gauge. Many people are using it to mount solar panels since it does rust and you can cut it to custom lengths.
I totally forgot about Aluminum strut! Great point. I used to work at a shop where we used it on the roof for solar mounts. I was in the mindset of interior mounting solutions and we didn’t consider Aluminum. Thanks for the comment. Do you know if it comes in a shallow version? I’ve only seen it in the 1 5/8 deep configuration.
You’re absolutely right. That would be a great addition for a future video. Most of the 80/20 we use is for racks or framing, but it would make a good rail for attachment.
T slot is another option. The hardware is also specialized to a degree. Personally I still like unistrut. T slot has its place (we use it on our roof racks) I mostly see it in cabinet framing.
I saw this comment, watched again looking for the errors. I'm very happy you're retired. He didn't use the proper words, but he does seem to understand yeild strength and plastic deformation well enough.
@@AVCRIG. first, a chain is only as strong as it’s weakest link. if your bolts are 8 cents they are not grade 5 steel much less grade 8, they are grade 2 or more likely unrated, Chinese garbage. I would not use anything less than grade 8 bolts in any vehicle. in case of collision, the extra $20 vs getting hit in the back of the seats and head by all of the cabinets that break loose in a front end collision or roll over is a no brainer. BTW, get your grade 8 bolts from Zoro, not Home Depot, for a fraction of the cost. Sign up and get free shipping if over $50 and occasional 20% off
@@rubikmonat6589 do you think his statement that every time steel is bent it returns to its original position is accurate? He didn’t use those exact words but that’s what he said, and he certainly didn’t use the terminology that you used how can anybody that knows anything about structural design not find fault in the fact that he didn’t even discuss grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, but instead discussed using bolts that cost eight cents
Hi Matt, Thanks for all your videos. They have been super helpful.I ordered a 2022 transit 5 months ago. Still waiting for it to be built. I will be converting it when it arrives. Looking forward to a video of how to mount cabinets to the unistrut. Thanks again for all the help you've provided for all of us.
@@AVCRIG you have to look at Grainger and McMaster. Both Grainger and McMaster have it (low profile in aluminum). And, at least in Southern California, you can pick it up at locations locally after you order it online and save on shipping cost.
I agree 100%. I have used unistrut , use to be called kendorf years ago, in my HVAC business for 35 years and I know a lot of uses it provides. The only draw back is weight. I have used it on roofs to hold ac units. They will not rust with the powder coat paint.
SuperStrut is a maker of Aluminum Unistrut. I looked at their product catalog and they do have a few specs on there. I'm sure the Aluminum Unistrut would be good for many applications. You could probably reach out to SuperStrut and ask if they have detailed strength specifications as compared to the steel version. It can be purchased from Graingers and picked up locally if you have a Grainger's warehouse near you.
Behind walls, unistrut. Exposed I’d use L track. 80/20 could be either. Unistrut and L track has different purposes even though they “could” be used similarly. 80/20 is the best of both worlds.
This is very helpful. I was looking at l-track exclusively, but you really have me reconsidering. I have seen aluminum unistrut, so I may research that some more.
l track selling feature it the quick secure, no tools. The only argument here was cost, and the bolt issue (which if you bolting something (permament) why you just bolt it to the substrate?🤷♂️)
While I agree with everything you said, you did not mention the cost of the painted coatings on the Unistrut. It should be professionally powder coated as you could not easily get the paint fully under the channel. It would be good to also add the cost of the Unistrut special nuts and not just account for the 8 cent bolts.
That’s a good point about the strut nut. I order super green coating on our strut and it comes that way powder coating is a great option too ( we offer pre cut and coated stuff on our site). It’s actually really difficult to find truly raw unistrut from anywhere but a specialty supplier (we looked it actually costs more from my distributor, guessing economy of scale) It’s just not common.
@@AVCRIG The best pro of unistrut, as you said, is that you can get it anywhere. (But no one carries AL unistrut, have to order. But at least the hardware is everywhere).
Great Videos, all of them! 10:08 regarding the profile height. I noticed you had a much taller profile Unistrut on the table at the beginning of the video, to your far right, that you did not pick up or mention in this video. You can see the taller profile Unistrut sitting to your far right at the 00:23 mark. I'm pretty sure it was the 1-5/8" profile height version. What would be the reason for going for a taller profile of Unistrut vs the lower profile Unistrut in a van build?
just found your vid as I was comparing unistrut to 10-series 8020 to L-Track. Hope you don't mind me resurrecting an old video. I'm looking at making a set of rails for a roof rack and I'm considering all options. After seeing your vid, I think I'm moving away from the L-track. You talked about weight, but have you all considered using aluminum unistrut? If so, why do you use steel over aluminum? Also, why not use low-profile, single sided 8020. I think it's the 10-series (part number 1575 or siimlar) that has only one side that's got the rail instead of all 4 sides. There are other verndors that make this, like Powertec; but these are made for wood working tables. I worry a bit about strength. Any insight from someone who uses it would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks in advance.
Nice tutorial, I’m doing band life on a budget, and work construction, I get all my strut for free! The stuff is really cheap as you mentioned, and when I say cheap, I mean and expensive because it is a quality product as well. As I mentioned, I get mine for free because I dumpster dive and recover all the used Yuna strut that the electricians and plumbers throw away when they are reconfiguring different things. It’s amazing how much strut I am able to acquire. Even 10 foot lengths. although mine are usually painted white over the galvanized finish, and they also have holes in the back, well, not holes as much as elongated holes, I’m sure you know the type, but it’s all free. I do have to Buy all the fasteners, but no big deal, fasteners are cheap and I don’t use a whole lot, most of my strut is used in structure anyway. I do weld a lot of the material together, so the powder coat finish needs to be done afterwards, although I don’t worry about rust so much, like I say on a budget and like function over form. But again thank you for showing me the L track I may need to get some for my bike tiedowns.
Thanks for the the informative video. Questions: #1 What about using aluminum Unistrut? Maybe it's weaker but wouldn't it still be strong enough to install cabinets and a bed frame as long as there are enough fasteners (one on each rib) to distribute the load? I'm hoping to get an electric van to build out and want to keep the weight down wherever possible. #2 How do you fasten aluminum Unistrut or L-Track to the van? Aren't steel fasteners incompatible with aluminum, causing corrosion over time?
I'm wanting to build a rack for the top of my Sprinter. Essentially one purpose.. to hold a 200w solar panel w/o having to drill holes in the roof. What are your thoughts. Video is over a year so you may not see it. Thank you..
Aluminum extrusion seems prudent to work into a followup for this video. The 80/20 catalogue is ripe with van applicable products, particularly when odd articulating assemblies are needed such as Murphy beds, etc.
@@AVCRIG feel free to reach out and I’ll be happy to share some of the things I’ve come up with. The OurKaravan galley is a good idea of the flatpack modularity of it, and can confirm there are numerous drop in, roll in, and other fasteners that are as convenient as strut and offer the same benefits over logistics track.
@@AVCRIGIf you haven’t seen it, Misumi has an insanely comprehensive collection of extrusions, and of hardware in general. They also have an impressive collection of hardware that they can customize. Bolts with precise lengths, etc. Sometimes two or more different measurements with 2 to 3 significant figures of dimensions. That is approximately the opposite of “available at a big box store”, but it’s really fun to look at :)
As you probably know you can get it at Grainger and McMaster and if you have one of their facilities near you, you can order it online and pick it up locally. I think it would depend on what you were mounting to it. It's just not going to be as strong or as durable as steel would be. But I'm sure it could hold up pretty good. I haven't done it yet but was thinking of reaching out to Superstrut and asking if they had strength specs for both steel and aluminum.
