It's really a pleasure to follow you and the way you explain things is so convincing. Communication with you seems so easy. Thank you for every thing. I am from Cameroon.
I haven’t seen this video, but I will, of course. I was scared that the video of the week didn’t arrive last Friday 😳😳😳I told my girl “Reza haven’t post video.” and she said: “Relax… it’s Christ resurrection week… leave the laptop.” 🤣🤣🤣Anyways! Thank you for the lesson Reza.🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
This was a great video. Thank you so much. I am sure that when I do this I will need to look back at the pad stitching video. These videos are not simple or quick or poor production quality. This is quite the labor of love/ commitment to growing the craft. 🪡🧵
Excellent video as always, thank you for sharing. I wonder though, how warm is the water for soaking the fabric? I'm guessing there's an acceptable temperature range that does not ruin it.
Hello! Absolutely not. You can however, stretch the edges of the front and back of the pad to allow it to sit better on the shoulder with a forward shape. This is something you have to experiment with for your personal project to get the specifics right. But if you're following the lessons with our materials, do as instructed for best results. If you do the exercises of all relative length techniques that I've demonstrated, you will understand much better what is and isn't possible. Reza
What do you think about putting a piece of silesia under the canvas when zig zagging the horizontal cut after closing the dart? I would think think that might need some reinforcement if the canvas isn't overlapping there? Maybe cut the silesia on the bias so it can still move side to side?
It will be an unnecessary step. The machine threads will be very strong. Adding a piece of Selisia to the horizontal cut may only be needed if your planning to carry extremely heavy items in your pockets AND use them excessively. Reza
Hello! Yes it is possible, however, I don't usually recommend it. If the thread is not super thin, it will show through on the fabric very easily, depending on what type of cloth you're using. Reza
If the pad stitch is not contributing to the shape of the canvas, couldnt the same result be achieved by rows of machine stiches(maybe zick-zack) or simple running or back stiches?If not ,what does the pad stich contributes to the construction of the canvas?
It really helps to watch Part 13 - Padding Stitch | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket at least twice before starting Lesson 15: Canvas Construction - Traditional Method and Pagoda Method.
Hello Reza, first of all, thank you very much for all these wonderful videos! Second, when it is used a double dart in the chest, the canvas has to be cut removing the double dart and cloaing it the same fashion way as you showes in this video?
That depends. If you have a double dart on your front panel, I assume you have good reason for it. For most jackets, a double dart is not a good idea. If however you have a double dart for good reason, I would progress by marking the double dart on the canvas as well and cut it out as I did in the lesson. Closing will indeed be the same. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT thank you for your answer! The draft would be for a corpulent 48 chest/waist, and the idea would the a double dart on the chest and a single dart at the front seam and at the pocket cut forming like a donlon wedge. I studied this draft in the TC Archibald Whife adaptations for corpulent figure. Does it make sense? I am sorry for my english! Thanks again!
when inserting the wedge would it be possible to pivot the cut to the scye on the hair canvas in order for a simplier way for the wedges not to overlap?
Yes you can do that. It won't make much of a difference as we have already offset the wedge positions for a smooth transition. When choosing between two methods, you must consider the outcome (in this case a smooth transition/less bulk) and the workflow (in this case making the cuts separately instead of making both at the same time) and decide from there. If your workflow is sacrificed for a similar outcome, I would not see that as an improvement. The same holds true if the outcome is sacrificed for a better workflow. It's best to improve both and move forwards. My suggestion would be to try it out and experience it for yourself. You can always fall back on what I've done in the video or even better, improve it according to your needs! Reza
You do not have to worry about the right or wrong side of the interlining canvas. There usually isn't one as both sides of the canvas are finished the same way during the weaving and finishing process. Reza
The leg hair oil bit kinda caught me off guard lol. Just curious, isnt typically silk thread used for pad stitching? Of course there's silamide instead of silk these days, but why not use the silamide instead of sewing machine thread?
Most tailors use basting thread. Silk thread is possible but not essential. Machine thread is thin and strong, which makes it a great all-rounder with all the colours available. Reza
Im doing a womens coat in melton wool with shoulder princess seams so the front is two panels. I assume you would cut the canvas in two panels too? But in this instance what about a wedge in the canvas? Is it required for a womans pattern? Ah just seen the video you have on canvassing a womens jacket. Ill watch that :)
Yes, please watch the video on canvassing a women's jacket. And as long as women have hollow shoulders (which most of them have) then yes a wedge in the shoulder is necessary. Unless you deliberately want to ignore it and create an extra large loose fit with a messy look for style. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks Reza, the coat I’m doing is a fit and flare style but has around 17cm of total ease in the bust area. I assume the more fitted a garment is, the more there is a need for a shoulder wedge.
@@OFFICIALISOT One follow up question. If on a womens pattern there is a shoulder princess seam would you make the canvass with this seam closed then open it to put in a wedge? Would that not nullify the princess seam which effectively is a dart?
This is an indication that your thread tension needs adjusting. Make sure your needle is sharp and has not bends. The tip should not be damaged. Your top tension must not be any tighter than the bobbin and vice versa. Also, your needle might be inserted wrong or the timing of the machine might be off. But most likely, it is the tension of your threads. I'm sure there are dozens of videos on how to get perfect thread tension on an industrial sewing machine on RU-vid. Good luck! Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT But i am talking about zigzag stitch Is it same problem of tension? I already practiced how to adjustment tension by using two different color of thread
I've never soaked canvas before. I assume after soaking the canvas we gently remove the water and roll it up using a dry towel or two, then hang it to dry? I have only found internet postings that say to wash and spin it in a washing machine. Some even say use cold water - very disappointing directions. As always, your video couldn't be better.
