And by not using the square knot on the first two sections it’s also easier to get the tension of the thread right! Great advice, thank you so much for sharing it! Beautiful binding as always, the label on the back is just so nice! Thank you DAS ☺️
I've been working on taking staples out of a pile of pamphlets today to rebind for an art journal type thing for my daughter, so I got excited when I saw this. It made me feel more confident that I chose a Coptic binding. Thank you, Darren!
Have you thought of using Tyvek for the binding? We have used it in my Bookbinding Club as a substitute for vellum in a Limp Vellum Binding exercise and it behaves very well (better than vellum does in a damp environment! ).
At 2:45 minutes into this video you mention Parchment ( though, before checking, I thought that you had said vellum) for the label binding and it was for that I was suggesting Tyvek as a substitute. You are making a huge contribution to the worldwide bookbinding community with your videos and for that I, among many I have heard from, are really, really grateful.
Less than 4 and I would do some sort of pamphlet pattern. Thought 3 section pamphlet sewing does my head in. I think going over 30mm thick would put a lot of work on the cover attachment. 1 inch or 25mm feels optimal to me.
OMG! I've been wanting to do this for ages, but you wouldn't believe how hard it is. The correct answer is to have rigidly controlled climate at 55% RH and 18degC and never turn the lights on and sort the books by size and pack them so they have just the right amount of pressure to keep them closed and to stop the text blocks from sagging, but not too tight that would damage the spines. Easy! But most home libraries can't achieve this. So there are things I do which I think are good compromises. But I don't expect anyone to take my word for it. The stumbling block is finding professional research literature that supports my practices. You wouldn't think it was so hard, but it is. The short answer is - never ever direct light. Closed bookcases to make microclimates and to reduce dust. Ikea Billy bookcases with the glass doors are perfect. Put bags of desiccant in them to reduce humidity. You can dry desiccant out in the oven (not in its bag though). Or solid doors and the light problem is solved, but you can't see your books. Even with solid doors, no direct light. Solid doors in direct light would turn the book case into an oven, and temperature swings are to be minimised. Dust the tops of your books regularly.
@@DASBookbindingI can understand by your long reply, how much you have to share with us on storing books. 😁 Thank you very much for all the information. I wish you a bright future so that you can learn more and teach us more. 👍🙂
You don't mean this video right? For hardcovers I use a generic grey binders' board, either 1.7mm or 2.4mm. In the UK you can get similar from Hewits or Ratchfords. In the US look for acid free Davey board.
Merci pour le lien. En fait je l'avais mais d'une autre source. La technique est intéressante. Mais avec le montage sur onglet on gagne en ouverture je trouve. Pour une reliure rapide je trouve que c'est une excellent méthode. As tu un compte Facebook ou WhatsApp où l'on pourrait échanger ? Je me réfère souvent a des références citées dans tes vidéos pour mes élèves je serais curieux de discuter avec toi
The main mechanical process used to stop thick text blocks sagging is rounding and backing. I have a video on these processes that should explain them. Just attaching to the spine would not stop sagging as the spine would just go concave. Machines are very bad at backing, and thus why all modern thick machine made books sag.
@@DASBookbinding I see, so it helps to have rounded the back of the text block some. I've never bound my own hardcover book by hand so I wouldn't really know how they stand up over time. The hardcovers you purchase at the store (the ones that cost four times as much as a paperback) do seem to break very easily.
@DASBookbinding One other question: Do you know a way to get rid of mold on paper of older or used books? Sometimes the edges of the paper tend to get a little mold; and I'd be tempted to trim them off. But, if there were a way to treat the mold I'd do it another way.
How would you repair or rebind books which are non sewn (consist of single sheets instead foldet sheets) into hardcover books? Unfortunately my favorite books are fabricated like this and they are in pretty rough shape since they are quite old.
If you took it for a cheap repair at a bookbinder they might guillotine the spine off and do a double-fan binding. Problem with this is loosing the width of the inner margin. A more careful binder will soften the remaining glue on the spine. pull every page apart and clean the glue off every single sheet and then do a double-fan binding. This is cased with something like the square-back Bradel binding.
