callling what he does surfing is deceptive. those big waves are in a different league from surfing as different as children playing football compared to the NFL.
The dislocated ribs make me wince the most as I have had a ton of injuries myself and breaking ribs hurt but dislocating my ribs yeee god those hurt for soo long every breath
He is beat up with arthritis now and can’t move like he used too. He sacrificed his body for big wave surfing. He surfed injured most of the time. He mainly paddle boards and surfs the hydro foil now. I miss watching him surf at Jaws. He just keeps going and keeps himself in great shape. That’s good he got his hip replaced.
That happens with just normal surfing anyway, but he has accomplished some gnarly sports/activities that are far beyond surfing as well, so I commend his body/spirit/mind being at a peak at 57 that most men will never get to experience their entire lives. Laird is a Real Man that I pray other guys start listening to and aspire to try his techniques to better themselves.
