Here's the immobiliser fitted to the donor Discovery, i don't think that this is a factory fitted system, maybe dealer fit? i'm not too sure how it's wired in as all the wires to it are plain black!
Been away for a few days but did some digging. The AS10 alarm (green box) only cut power to the starter solenoid and was trivial to bypass. The spider cuts power to the fuel pump & ignition too and, being buried in the dash, is harder to bypass. The spider was unreliable, so was replaced by the Eureka which broadly does the same job but has it's own fob. In all events it's just a simple power interrupter so you can just ditch & bypass. I've got access to the wiring diagram if needed.
The Disco is a '97 model, i've just returned from the guy who we gave the shell to & i've managed to salvage the 'green box' (immobiliser ecu?) with the wiring loom attached, i'm going to look at the circuit diagram in the Haynes manual see if i can figure it out - but any advice on this is much appreciated!
yeah only place you will come unstuck is with the imobiliser that is in built to the ecu, but there are companies out there than can unlock them and remove the imobiliser, give them a ring and they can advise you
hi frank just been building a space frame disco at mo with the 3.9 efi engine like yours had to take the loom out like you have and had to keep the part around the key an fob as its all linked through the ecu to work immobiliser but dont know if you got a green landrover box behind the glove box which mine had thats all wired in loom and been told that i cant cut it out as linked up with ecu mine was a 1996 disco just say good luck i hate wiring but mines nearly there thank good
Hi Wayne! sorry i'm late with my reply but i've been up to my neck in it, this is just one of many projects i'm involved in, i keep breaking off one project to work on another & unfortunately the V8 is going to have to take a back seat for a little while, i like the sound of your exhaust - one of the main reasons i wanted a V8 was for the fantastic sound the engine makes - fed up with the smoke & rattle of the 300tdi diesel, i'm just hoping i can cope with the thirst for fuel!
No worries - what year is the donor? I'll look up a wiring diagram for it. Take a look at my Td5 bench test vid and you'll see I'm not afraid of wiring :)
Thanks,I think your right about the fuel pump/ignition being immobilised, i have an old Porsche & the Toad alarm that was fitted had to be removed as it went faulty, we found that the ignition wire & fuel pump wire had been cut & soldered into the alarm, i'm hoping that this is going to be the same, but i'm a little worried about the 'green Land Rover box' behind the glove box, as i don't have it any more!
Thanks for the info, i need all the help i can get on this one i think, i would like to remove all the wiring so i'm going to chase it back in the loom & try to work it out, just hope i don't need the 'green Land Rover immobiliser box' that's behind the glovebox as it got scrapped with the shell, Ooops!
Thanks for the info Dave, i seem to remember a box of some sort behind the glove box, shit i hope that it wasn't the box your referring to as we've just got rid of the shell & I didn't remove it!! btw, i luv the space frame Disco your building, looks fantastic we're building something very similar on a 4.0 D2 chassis, but not to such a high standard, cheers
yeah that's Kenny in the background, he's welding up the most unbelieveable exhaust mod ever - i'll get some video of it & you won't believe your eyes!
Thanks, the more i learn about this system the more confident i am that i can bypass both immobilisers, why do you think LR decided to fit a secondary system (the 'spider') it must surely be the fact that the primary system offered poor security & could be bypassed? thanks for all the input i'll video & post the results of any wiring i do!
My rangie has an aftermarket immobiliser fitted no one knows what brand it is or how to remove it. We had a go at it but when we unplugged it the Ignition wouldn't work neither would any electrics, so we plugged it back in and left it. The only problem is it has a 10 second timer on it so when you put the little tab in the hole a light flashes and you have 10 seconds to start the car, however of it's cold and the car takes a while to turn over you have to constantly take the keys out :( all the
and you may find you can unplug that imobiliser rbox and join pairs of the black wires together to get the car to run, best bet if you have a power probe is to use that. ive bypassed one or two imobilisers and once you see how it works there quite easy, the tricky ones are them in built to the ecu, but the stand alone sort like you have here arnt to bad to bypass its just figuring out what wire goes where.
usually imobilisers are wired between the ignition switch and the engine functions ie fuel pump/power to provide sparck/ignition, if you can frank follow black wires back along the loom and you might find where they have cut a wire then soldered the black wires on to the loom in that spot, inside the imobiliser box are little relays that when you deactivate it via fob activates the relays to then power fuel pump etc. once you get your head round it frank it will become clear
You should just be able to connect each pair of wires in the black plug together to bypass the immobiliser. The tricky bit is working out what wire does what. You should be able to test the continuity of each wire with the others when the immobiliser is disabled to work out each seprate pair, which you can then connect together.
usually imobilisers are wired between the ignition switch and the engine functions ie fuel pump/power to provide sparck/ignition, if you can frank follow black wires back along the loom and you might find where they have cut a wire then soldered the black wires on to the loom in that spot, inside the imobiliser box are little relays that when you deactivate it via fob activates the relays to then power fuel pump etc. once you get your head round it frank it will become clear
whos welding in the background ?haha. and if you cant get this sorted you can reflash, or get a different ecu for the same engine and set it up like that. so you can have it without the fancy start setup with that chip
Not sure, but I think only the spider (or Eureka in your case) is the immobilisor. The green box is the alarm ECU & I think the immobilisor was just added on, which is why it looks like a bit of a bodge. In later times the immobilisation became more integrated, so the alarm ECU would talk direct to the engine ECU. Or...... I could be completely wrong! The workshop manual will probably have a good description of how the system works.
I've no personal experience on this so no guarantees, but from what I know the early immobilisors were prone to failure and the one you have is a later replacement. A common alternative was to fit a bypass plug (search for LR part no AMR4956) so I would think you could still do that. It just looks like 3 wire loops that probably supply the fuel pump, starter solenoid etc. so you could make your own if you can figure out which wires are which. Cool vids BTW.
I think that puts it right in the middle of the dodgy immobilisor range (96 to 98 I believe) so I reckon a bypass will be all you'll need - it wasn't particularly sophisticated, just interrupts the power to the fuel pump, ignition & starter. I'll see if I can get the LR electrical manual.
hiya mate,hows things?..i had a few probs with the immobilizer on my 3.9 rangie,but it had colour coded wires so was easy to trace and remove to fit my alarm/remote engine starter..so canna help mate sorry..just made a new straight through exhaust for mine(check out my channel for the exhaust note video!!)..3 1/4 inch pipe..no middle box,into a 5 inch rally evo rear box!..bloody loud lol.. take care pal.. atb..wayne.
hi mate, no probs pal,i think every one is busy with builds and mods at the mo lol..yeah you just cant beat the sound of a v8!,,also its nice to have the pulling power too,, heheeh yep mpg is a bit of a issue on mine too,,ive had it remapped and a few other bits and bobs,and with all the weight she carries now im lucky to see 6 mpg around town lol.. ah well the joys of motoring eh ahahahaha, take care pal. cheers...wayne.
Hi, my eureka unit is driving me crazy, can you tell me how to bypass, before I need a bypass! Fails to start 15-20 a week, my partner refuser to ridde in it. Spent £450 getting it fitted less than a year ago.
