Land Rover Series 3 - Modifications to Make it More Usable 

Very nice Land Rover and good advice all around. Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video.

As an ocean sailer, I had to cope with lots of stainless on aluminium, particularly on the masts where all fittings are stainless. Comment is correct that they are a long way apart on galvanic scale hence prone to galvanic action via electrolysis. There is an expensive tube of tough weather resistant goop that I bought that electrically isolated a fitting from the mast.

My experience in fitting free wheeling hubs to my 2A SWB made 1 mpg difference, from 17 to 18mpg.

This is very interesting! Thank you very much for sharing!

It's a lovely old Landy, and you're a lucky man to have one and to be able to drive it from time to time.....

It’s been many years since I owned my 1980 80” but here are a few things I did which made it better in my opinion. I fitted 750 radial tyres which rolled much easier and quieter that x ply and moving from a 600 to a 750 gave it longer legs on the road. Sure it didn’t accelerate as quickly but it was fine. This knocks the speedo reading out but as I had a LWB for spares I fitted the speedo head and gearbox from it - it also had a Fairey over drive which was a game changer. FWH’s we’re on it when I got it but remember and lock them up now and again to splash lubricate the innards of the front axle. I managed to get a 2.5 n/a from a Sherpa van which dropped in nicely and made a huge difference as it was a 2286 petrol until that point - power and economy. I fitted an electric Kenlow fan and did away with the viscous fan on the 2.5 (the bearing in the fan was on the way out so just went with the electric fan). Inertia reel seatbelts gave a semblance of safety and a smaller leather steering wheel gave it at least another 10hp 😂. Home made sound deadening made from a roll of recycled rubber matting covered the bulkhead and seatbox. Having 3 seats I fitted a MoD under seat storage box from the old 109 I was scrapping which was handy. In the rear a glued foam sleep mats to the roof and sides for insulation - I’m sure there are better products available nowadays. I’m sure there was more, like the new Marsland chassis and proper bulkhead repairs but I can’t think. It was a very usable and reliable vehicle which I’d happily take on a journey of a few hundred miles and even returned around 30mpg on the motorway which was night and day compared to the 13 I got when it was a standard petrol. Sold it once I had 3 Landys on the go and that was the one getting the least use but I wish I’d kept it.

Good video with a lot of good ideas for upgrade. Thanks

I did the following to my '79 109" panel van. Parabolic leaf springs and uprated OME gas dampers. This allowed for significantly better diff crossover. I replaced the old oil bath air cleaner with a Donaldson dry air filter fed from a snorkel. I replaced the old SU carb with a Weber Tipo 34 carburetor. I fitted a free flow 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system. I replaced the steering box with a period replacement as the gears and linkages were worn and added an uprated steering damper. I rebuilt the Salisbury diffs with new running gear and ball joints and added a centre differential lock. Fitted a BMW 5 series power steering system. The single best thing I did was fitting the parabolic leaf springs, 2 leaf on front diff, 3 on rear, load capacity of 2.5 ton but very much more comfortable than the old school leaf springs. I had manual lock free running front hubs already so that didn't need work I'd love to have fitted discs to the front but I had the drums very nicely balanced with new wheel cylinders and lines from the already installed uprated V8 servo assisted brakes. Miss my Landy, great vehicle that I regret selling

Lovely series 3. Quite fancy one of these as a classic runaround. 😊

Really good modifications with having the vehicle for ten years your probably very well aware of the auxiliary sockets on the dash are a notorious shorting point, and had this dreadful burning out of my wiring loom due to fitting a 12 volt socket and the positive and negative vibrating together, I've since fitted a new wire loom and placed a thick piece of plastic in between the two terminals been fine ever since.

I ran my 1963 Land Rover and did a lot to it that you have done. One thing you have missed is upgrading the brakes by using some long wheelbase brakes backing plate/drums etc. I also suggest a hidden 'pull' for stopping the engine. I could list a lot more.

My two pence - FWH are dangerous off road. I had them and nearly lost control on a steep decent when one went pop. I reverted to normal drive plates and remain happy. The mod I can't recommend enough is an Ashcroft ATB pegged rear diff and HD half shafts. The axle goes from the weakest link to bombproof and goes well off road in just 2WD 🙂

Don’t use GL5 gearbox oil. Or if you have to , axles only. It rots bronze. FWH are good. I stick mine in four wheel drove once a week or so for a few miles( hubs not being engaged ). It spins the front diff and flings oil round inside the axle, front uj’s and therefore top swivel pin and railko bush What they do help with is a smidge of mpg but mainly noise and vibration and very noticeably the steering-at low speed full lock I have an led repeater bulb in my texmagna indicator switch. It’s bright enough to see in daylight ( too bright at night really so I hold the wheel in a position to shield it) but importantly it’s a right pain to change that bulb!

Owned my S3 near 50 years....bought it new age 23 in 1975. Had FWH more or less for ever.....its got to save on fuel....the engine is not turning part of the gear box....the front prop the front diff....the front drive shafts....and incurring no wear to those items. Also a big gain is less noise..... One thing I would not be without....the GB Spring parabolic springs.....no not perfect but way way better than std cart springs.....I prob would get an even better ride if I experimented with softer shocks.....I still run with the std shocks. I have converted the heater to ram air inlet.....with a 4ft length of 4 inch ducting....running from the heater box to behind the grill.....made an AMAZING DIFFERENCE......I can still use the blower but dont need to. The std air inlet is on the side of the wing.....what a crazy place to have it.....the poor heater blower really struggles to get any air due it location..... The original 2.25d was fully reconed at 100.000mls...TBH its was finished way before that milage.....it really is a poor excuse for a diesel engine....it then lasted a further 100.000mls giving around 24mpg...overdrive and FWH. Then I discovered the 200di conversion.....wow what was I missing....not near 40mpg on a run.....35mpg round town. And so much more power....as I say....its a DI....I removed the turbo.....didn't want anything complicated and expensive to go wrong.....and a SWB 88 dont need one. Msg me is you interested in my heater mod. Like you I soon found out the sealing of the heater box is poor....allowing cold air into the cab. My o/d has been sold....and a pair of 3.5 diffs fitted...gives same gearing as O/D high.....with not of its noise....and constant oil checks. The engine handle the diffs with ease. Nick in Cheshire UK.

I’ve used manual locking freewheeling hubs on another 4x4 and they made a huge difference, it came with auto locking hubs but renowned for failing so fitted manual. As you say a little contravertial but if it’s you’re own can it’s your business. It gave me low box 2wd with hubs unlocked. Also when I’d had the hubs locked and then unlocked the car had a lot more go about it. So I’m guessing yours will be the same.

I've added a battery isolator switch under the bonnet - I don't use mine much and there must have been some drain on the battery without it. I've also converted my "cigarette lighter" to a USB power socket for phones and GPS. Sadly the driveway is empty now because its at the mechanics having jammed in 3rd gear last week...

Luckily mine came with freewheeling hubs, but I think my best additions so far have been adding servo assisted brakes with an electric vacuum pump that is activated by the brake light switch, and changing the static seatbelts for retractable seatbelts.

Fitting electronic ignition to my 2.25 petrol was by far the best thing that I did performance and starting wise to my engine. If I had kept it, I would have fitted a ported head with hardened valve guides. Free wheeling hubs are also good, just make sure to engage them ocassionally to get the oil swooshed around and lubing everything. Finally, if my Series was a daily and/or I towed with it, I'd consoder fitting a Zeus front disc brake conversion - mainly as they brake better, and there's no need to get under and adjust the drums..

Fairey overdrive is top priority if doing any sort of distance, as the engine wants to give more but is strangled by the gears. Freewheeling hubs will also increase driveability on road and should decrease fuel consumption slightly. Parabolic springs increase ride comfort a little bit and a twin leading shoe conversion on the front brakes will help it stop with more braking efficiency. There is no end to the mods and upgrades that you could perform to a series III, but it is what it is. If you want something more driveable, buy a 90/110

Hi. Great video, really interesting. I’m particularly interested in the additional earth strap you’ve added. Have you just simply linked this between the battery negative terminal and a point on the chassis? Thanks

Hey there, I've been loving your videos having just purchased a Series 3 myself. For a very cack handed amateur, how hard are the rear bench installations? Also regarding servicing, how often to you check/change filters, plugs (injctors), oil? Thanks!

Hey man your trailer looks great . Any more photos of it?

I would advise against stainless on the aluminium as they are dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion. Also your advise to use the most expensive oil is not great. When the car was made the oils were much lower quality mineral oils. This is what the engine requires, the more expensive oils often have synthetic additives which the series will not take well to. The best thing you can do is frequent oil changes.

Will you be doing a video on changing the swivels ??

Would you have a link to the voltmeter you installed at the dashboard ? And do you need to do some additional modification to the wiring ?

Do you have a link or part number for the Aiko roof bars as I can not find them on their ebay shop.

Just curious, what are those seats have you have got in the Landy?

Great video, I have a 1978 series 3 SWB I have been looking for a while now for the right LED instrument lights. I am in Australia, however I get a lot of parts from the UK. Can you help with information on where to get the LED globes please.

Great vid with a lot of inspiring ideas. Is the voltmeter a genuine Smiths or Lucas one? Never seen before. How do you route the line of your worklamp to the front?

Different mirrors? Look like late Series 3 door mirrors, so much easier than the wing mounted mirrors

Do you have any idea of a part number or good keywords to find a similar volt meter to this? I can only find standard round ones. Also what happens to the charge light with this change?

Hi there, loving the videos! I’m 18 and am looking into getting a series 3. Hard tops, as you mentioned in a previous video, are better value so I’m wanting one of those. What’s the deal with the rear bench seats and insurance/V5? Did you just install them and that’s that or did you have to inform the DVLA and insurance, if so, does it count as a modification? I’ll be going through specialist insurance and low millage as it’s going to be a project/weekend car. Cheers in advance.

Land rover 110 👍

Not controversial....I have owned 7 Series Landrovers and I learned early..Fit an extra Earth lead...not expensive but means if it is in good condition...it will start every time with a 10 seconds heater plug application even in the deep minuses.

I see you have an overdrive fitted....When new these Fairey overdrives were recommended for use in all gears, effectively giving you 8 gears to play with....ever heard of a twin stick?? ask an old time trucker or look on YT for vids....The OD can be fitted (as I did) with a long stick (you will have to angle it just right and it will act like a 'splitter' or 'two-speed axle' of course it operates differently, but gives the same effect...In reality you will only use the top 3-4 of them...but....well just watch some twin stick vids and you will see how it can help.

prob should of gone black for the additional earth lead?

Free wheeling hubs create wear, propshaft splines, railko bushes and crownwheel rust are common on vehicles fitted with fwh, I've seen this too many times over the last 30 years working on series landies. Free wheeling hubs belong in the bin.

Good video. But, that red ground/earth lead makes my brain cringe. : )

Why use a landrover for long distance motorway driving they're noy meant for that.

Best upgrade is a 4x4 on coils. These old leavers are awfull on the road.

are you really use earth cable RED? in Europe is BLACK and positive RED…. are you American?