I've watch a lot of videos on you tube about rocket stoves.I think this is one of the best! for my situation.I live in Newfoundland,Canada. the weather here can be pretty harsh in the winter.My shed is 20 x 24 and i need a rocket stove witch can burn for a few hours after each load put in the fire box.I thank you Mr.ppotty1 and all the rest of you guys for sharing your videos! This desgin will be my first build of a rocket stove.I hope it heats my shed!
Very nice ! well done. You do the best job of showing "what" and "how" you complete a build, without drifting away or going on endlessly( example: spending 5 minutes grinding on a piece of metal) like some have been known to do.
mrwilly41 Thanks mate, I try to show what i feel are the more interesting bits and try to get the important bits in, tend to forget I mention the important bits before and repeat them. lol.
Perfect. I have seen other guys who use a little rubbing alcohol in with the Sawdust to help get it started. I had plans on making a sawdust heater now I might have to re think my idea
Maybe if you would use two cardboard tubes to create your tunnels you would not need to pull them out they would just burn out and you could have them pre-loaded with paper for starter
Hey ppotty1 I have a cabinet shop that I heat burning scraps I have been watching videos and reading everything I can for the last two weeks I even did a saw dust burn in my typical wood stove using your ideas just wanted to say thank you for all your videos and sharing of your ideas brilliant mate keep up the good work I'm going to build a exact replica of your rocket stove and start burning my saw dust which I have an unlimited supply of cheers
Justin Cyr Hello Justin, and thanks for the comment, well worth the effort if you have alot of waste, produces lots of heat when burned like this and burns clean too, you have no doubt seen the benefits. Regards...Loz.
I Tip my hat. Great innovation as usual. I have been mixing my saw dust with waist Veg oil and then packing for even more BTU delivery. no oil processing needed.
Great work.... I like the idea of being able to have long burns and not have to load so often. I know that the bigger the fire box the longer it should run, so by timing your burns you could determind what size one may need to run it overnight. I know other factors like how much air intake and type of wood is to be considered, But this is great! keep up the great work and thank you for taking your time to share this with others. I like were this is heading.....
I landed a really good deal on .sn entire roll of ceramic blanket 1/2" thick that will work perfect for my firebox as well as the riser instead of the perlite. this stuff is rated to 2300f.
very nice stove, good ideas on the firebox, thanks also for the dimensions : ) I live near a large " wood " shop, and can get the sawdust and other cuttings for free, well it actually cost me a coffee ( Tims )
Great DESIGN,I HAVE BUILT TWO ROCKET STOVES USING A 55 GALLON DRUM AND 5'' SQUARE BOX TUBE STEEL,RUNNING A 6'' FLUE PIPE.WORKS GREAT, BUT THE WOOD FEEDER NEEDS TO BE MUCH BIGGER,MAYBE 10" SO YOU CAN USE BIGGER DIAMETER WOOD.THE SMALLER THE WOOD THE FASTER YOU HAVE TO ADD MORE WOOD.
Hay Mate across the pond Just wanted to give you a thank you I used your design and maid me your your stove I sure love it again thank you for sharing your ideas Joebis
Bigwannas Thanks mate please feel free to use it. Sketch of plan right at end of video. Today was my first full day in the shop with a whole day burn, have to say its crazy but I have used less wood than I did with the smaller firebox!!! Plus had to open the door every 30 mins as it was just too hot inside and I was down to my tee shirt. i think this is just more efficient burning larger logs which burn much longer than they would split into smaller sticks.
As I said you are onto a great thing.Thanks for the reply and glad your results are so in line with what you desired. Don't you love it when a plan comes together?
A little trick,Place large glass or metal containers filled with water around that stove and when the stove fire finally dies down at the end of the day,the water filled containers will continue to release heat slowly long after your gone.store up that heat energy produced.
Nice build ppotty1, Just an FYI for everybody, I built a glass front (out of a grill glass) on my mass heater. with a venturi on the exhaust. Turns out the grill glass could not take that much heat & it exploded. I'm thinkin if you made a couple of fill magazines you could just swap them out as they burnt up. Anyways GOOD build! Peace Out!
would not have even considered a sawdust heater untill i saw this video. u should make the firebox take a paint tin then u can preload paint tins or something simaller ready to use and filling them would be much easier
Brilliant ppotty1 ! I use a rocket stove and a saw dust stove,separately,in my workshop.With the rocket stove I heat a masonry stove from another room.The too often feeding of the rocket is killing me,other way it works well.So, this firebox you made it's a great idea and I will make something similar to have a longer burn.I wood like to ask you something,until I make my own.If you don't mind,would you try a load of wood pellets ,to see if it works?With a drilled strainer ,or a stainless steel grate at the bottom of the pellets,I'm convinced that will burn well.No need to make a video about the pellet experiment ,just write if it works. Thank you for your time and for this great idea.
Thanks Mambo They will burn pellets just fine all you need is a wire cage inside the firebox, just top it up as it burns down or you could make an auto feed like T2H made on his cyclone rocket. Cheers
BTW,did you open the secondary air intake,with sawdust burning?Is useful at sawdust? I'm still trying to register at the Rocket Woodstove Forum,from yesterday. :)
i was wondering if you figured out the actual name of that fireboard. Im noticing the front of the firebox is getting extremely hot to the point of turning red around the cleanout door. thanks for any info u can pass my way.. Im gonna do a video here soon, once I get done putting on my air controls, and a few touchups on the stove.
Mr. Potty have you began your cast core build yet I have been waiting to see this before building one out of stainless thanks for all your help and advice
Mark Vaughn Hi Mark, I have not done it yet due to a change of plans on the stove Still not quite sure on the height of the stove so cant cast the riser. However if you are thinking of using a cast riser in your stove Id say yes make allowances for it because it will last longer than any steel.
Finished stove and seems to be working fairly well.. I am finding its a bit finicky,,but just like anything else the more you use it, you learn how to adjust it and make it work better. Im finding that I get the best draw if i close down the air controls. I was wondering, what size is your stack, mine is 6 inch pipe, and im wondering if its to big. the stove seems to want to smoke up the glass unless i have the air set just right on it..
baetis0426 My stove works best when its all up to temp usually after a 5 min burn, before then the draught can be sluggish. Do you have enough gap over the riser tube? 3 inch as a minimum I would say. any less will effect the draught. My flue is 6 inch also should not effect the draught issue as bigger is better than smaller. It sounds like not enough air is pulling up the riser if you have to restrict the air intakes to balance it.
***** i bet thats it,,, from the top of my tank to the top of the riser tube is just under 2 inchs,, I will cut some off the top of the riser and see what it does..I also did away with the holes on the side of the firebox and made slots instead for my primary air control,,will try that out tomorrow night and see how she does.. thanks for the idea
Your Metal Looks thin, what ist the measure 2 mm??? Or maybe 1.5 mm . It would be nice you answer on this old Video, i'm from Germany, If you can please tell it mm... 😉 It is a great Job you did... I am in Love 🥰
On your plans, on the side that has the 19" and 17" dimensions...how wide is that piece from front to back.Thanks.Nice stove! Nevermind...Just rewatched the video and you said 10.5"
Absolutely wizard! you might break a couple of light gauge metal "dams" that could hang over each side to block the side vents while you fill the box. I was thinking some 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe would work well for a chase. Once the hole collapses, does it still draw ok? Your thoughts?
+Bill Johnson Hi Bill yea thats just what I did with an old metal tin, works a treat. I got hold of some 3 inch plastic rainwater pipe which is much better for the burn hole and im not packing the saw dust as tight so its burning really well now. Once the surface of the sawdust gets burned it forms like a crust which stops it collapsing, it then just burns away from the hole to the sides until its all gone. it never blocks the riser entrance either.
Im wondering if firebrick like they use in regular wood stoves wouldnt work on the back of the firebox. You could weld in angle iron on either side to slide them down the back wall to hold them in place. Then when they either crack or burn out.. it would be easy to slide new ones in...
Adventurous take off sawdust firebox weld in t piece lhd sawdust box and righthand sticks and lumps of wood. is that too much only use one at a time a shut off vent either side does that sound right or bolt on fireboxes of different types.
Great video, excellent presentation, I think I've watch most of your rocket videos in the last week or so. I see that you have a slight tilt on your stove top, I'd appreciated your thoughts on likely problems of increasing the slope to say 30 - 45degrees, how do you think it would affect the operation of the air wash.
axoz75 Thankyou for watching. I dont think increasing the slope would make any difference to the operation of the firebox, but you might consider hinging it on one side instead of the top or fitting a restraint when the door is open, if it fell down fitted on a 45 angle it might break the glass. Cheers.
Thank you for the videos. I am in the process of building my first rocket stove and have watched a ton of videos on here. By far, your stove is the most impressive and I wanted to thank you for the dimensions on the firebox build. Can I ask,, what size square tubing did you use on the secondary air supply, and what thickness did you use on the firebox walls themselves?
baetis0426 Thanks for the comment, the sec air tube is 1 1/2 inch square seems to be adequate for this stove although you could use bigger which would't hurt. The outside firebox walls are 2.5mm from memory but I would advise you to use at least 5mm if you want the firebox to last a couple of years and longer, i lined the inside with 2mm stainless again use thicker steel for the lining to last. I will be replacing this stove this summer with a new design and firebox, thats why I built it from fairly light steel, the lining has deformed and buckled on this, not a problem but it only had to last 4 months anyway. Cheers.
Im just about done with my stove.. finally got my 5x5 tube for the horizontal. I have an idea for the secondary burn, just not sure if it will work. Along side the horizontal, Im thinking about welding another side piece, same width as the horizontal tube, but comes out approximately 1 inch so as to make an air channel alongside the horizontal. Im thinking about cutting a hole in the firebox on the right side inline with the primary air and could get my air thru there. I could control secondary air as well as primary air with same control.. My question is,,, does the secondary air as it enters the riser need to be higher than where the flame is entering the riser. If thats the case then Im not sure this will work. The cool thing about this setup is that I will also be preheating my secondary air off the horizontal.. Sorry for the long post,, Im just new to youtube and not sure where else to add comments.. but I would appreciate your tthots..
baetis0426 Great that you have almost got the stove sorted, the sec air should enter right into the flame path ideally or as near as poss, so you good on that I guess, pre heating is also good as it mixes better.
Hi thank you. I had a question if you are interested in joining me in a project. I am making a sute to fly and would like to try your vortex stove desing to build a jet . For the sute . IS there a way to corperate the silinder with an inner tube with fan and cause thrust.? Sorry so sloppy,
One last question, lol,,, sorry to bug you so much,,, but I believe you used stainless as well on the horizontal tube coming off the fire box.. I have a 5x5x8 piece of regular mild steel I was going to use.. Just wondering,, did u have problems with that burning out eventually as well.. or should I not waste my time and go with the stainless for that as well.. again,,, thanks for your help.
baetis0426 If the 5x5 is around 5mm thick it should hold up ok any thinner and it will burn out, its worth using stainless for long term use though.Cheers.
you mention that you used to burn sawdust /shavings on a conventional stove, what did you use to contain the sawdust ? the idea of burning shavings on a conventional stove is something i have been looking at some time with out fans .Thank you for sharing.
Ppotty1, hi i just need to know The material u Used to insulate The riser tube and what dimension is The tube. Very nice project and ty 4 The high info u shared. God Bless n more power!! Happy New Year too!
bobot021070 Hi Bobot I used perlite to insulate the riser the riser tube is 6 inch and the outer insulator just over 8 inch so roughly an inch of insulation around the riser, Cheers.
Could start out with paper towel roll tubes or even cut slats and wedge toilet paper rolls together if you do not use paper towels... 2 side by side if needed for more air flow and then you do not have to remove anything. very nice idea. i like it.. Maybe i missed it but what is the average burn time on this? Thanks!
Caster Troy Hi Caster,and thanks. yes good ideas there would also not have to pack the sawdust down too tight. Burn time is around one and a half to two hours. Cheers.
+Adrian Stead Cheers Adrian, yea i put a couple of lumps of wood in there as the sawdust was finishing its burn, I could have re-filled with sawdust I guess but I will probably burn i box of dust then a couple of logs each day which will keep the place warm for 8-10 hours
I just wanted your opinion on building the fire box bigger I was thinking about 2 feet by 2 feet by 3 feet tall I want to be able to do a larger amount of saw dust at once it's the only change I want to make do you think it will change the way the stove performs
Justin Cyr Hi Justin with a firebox that big you would not be able to open the lid once the fire is lit, there would not be enough draw on the riser to pull the volume of gas and air from the firebox so it would vent out of the top of the box. Burning anything in it would have the same problems mate as it would act as a secondary stove and vent heat from the air intakes..Think I am right on the limit with this one now. Cheers.
can you compress that sawdust and make your own logs/stick/bricks to place in the stove rather than pack the sawdust into a burning form..this way you can continuously feed the stove
Forgot to ask... Have you seen much of a temp change when the secondary air is applied. I have used it with my system but have not seen a real benefit in doing so, I see good draw but not much more than that....thoughts?
mrwilly41 Secondary air feed can seem like a waste of time, and I suppose on a rocket with a separate direct air feed to the riser it wouldn't make much difference. However what it does do is keep the burn clean and hot inside the riser meaning you actually use less fuel for the same heat, the temp difference wont be that noticeable maybe 20 degrees. It end up you use less fuel and get a cleaner burn. Since I improved the sec air on this firebox I have noticed the difference in the amount of fuel I have used today and the increase in heat from it overall.
Just posted a comment and forgot to ask,, I am going to use a 100 pound propane bottle. Aprroximately what size shop do you think that will heat. My shop is 34x42 feet. I am currently using a double barrel 55 gallon stove and it heats the shop fine, but it sure loves to eat the wood. Thanks for your thots.
baetis0426 Hi there, my shop is 25x25 foot and it soon gets up to 20c within 30 mins usually. You could use a 55 gallon drum with a larger riser of say 8 inch diameter. im sure that would heat your shop and use less wood than your current set up. Cheers.
mr potty I am casting a core for my rocket stove I have been told that the opening needs to be about 5 3/4 square on my intake for a 6 inch system domyou agree or can i make it bigger without smoke coming back thanks YOU ARE THE MAN
Mark Vaughn Hi Mark, Yes you want to make the riser intake smaller than the riser itself, you get a better draught or pull of air through it. Its easy enough to restrict it further after the build if you find the draught slow or sluggish. Good luck. Cheers.
Why not bring in air from outside the house to feed the fire? A tight house won't have enough air coming in to feed both the fire and the folks breathing it.
check out my ash pan i did on the stove,,, i cut some slots in the bottom of the firebox and fit in a 5 inch deep ash pan,,, i had it burning coal last night and it actually was doing pretty good...
baetis0426 Nice Job mate Coal burns pretty dirty when its first lit and will take longer to heat the riser than wood so you will probably get a bit of smoke coming out of the box until everything heats up.
