Don't forget to check out the blog entry for additional information regarding the swap! officialthreetwenty.com/2017/07/23/install-oem-2-3l-throttle-body-na-st/
I did this mod on my 2016 Ford Focus SE Hatchback NA 4cyl 2.0L flex fuel engine and it makes my car run a heck of a alot smoother and faster in as far as acceleration. Thanks alot guys for the great tip.
I did this install last night and would recommend placing the bolts through their holes then fitting the intake pipe over the throttle body before installing. I tried doing it while the throttle body was mounted on the car and it was awful. I pulled the throttle body off, threaded the bolts, and used Vaseline to mount the intake pipe on my work bench, which was much easier. I could then rotate the intake pipe around as needed to torque down the bolts using the socket.
Honestly, if you stay off the gas pedal, you won't notice any difference in fuel economy. HOWEVER, the fact that the car will rev smoother and drop RPM's faster on deceleration makes it hard not to play around when accelerating, so you will notice a drop that way.
I am not able to find anyone who has put their Focus on a dyno, before and after, for real world comparison. Something that comes into play is with the larger diameter opening, velocity of air could be reduced. In such an engineered engine that may be a detriment. That's why I would like to see before and after dyno results.
Thats actually in the plan for the next bit, to get my car on a dyno, so that we can figure out what sort of power it is making now. With all mods that its got so far, vDyno says it should be making around 185-ish to the wheels, and I want a real dyno so I can say for certain.
That would be great. Modern engines can make surprising amounts of power (3.5L EcoBoost), but the engineering on them is pretty tricky to be able to do so. Things that logically should increase power don't always do so. As I mentioned, air flow can be tricky; i.e. increased volume vs. decreased velocity, and how this impacts cylinder filling with the intake manifold runner design and valve arrangement.
@@1001Hobbies and its not just airflow that im worried about, its also spark, timing, fuel, and a ton of other things. Im also debating getting cams, but at the moment, there isnt software available (inexpensively) which can adjust the variable cam timing, to account for a more aggressive cam setup.
im just now figuring out how much air restriction the engineers designed into this thing from the factory. i ripped the bumper off an se and found an intake choke in the engine subframe. you have to cut it out with a dremmel and use a router bit to clean it up and make it smooth. i mean at it's most narrow point, the se intake is only about 2-2.5 square inches. that is not a lot of air at all, i routed a second pipe from the bottom of the airbox to the dumb hole on the right side of the bumper cover and got actual manifold pressure. that thing rips now after i fixed the evap canister valve. just gotta figure out the catalytic
I was excited about the swap until I heard you said you got it off the 2.3L. I doubt this swap would work for me since I have a 2.5L duratec In my fusion. And probably already have the biggest throttle body for the duratec i4 family already.
I have the 1.6 Ti-vct petrol hatch ford focus 2012 Would I be able to put the 2.3 litre throttle body conversion on to mine I all ready have the K@N filter but need to add more power and this sounds like worth a try
god Its difficult to say, truthfully. My car is the one used, and while I didn't notice an increase in performance per sé, I did notice an improvement in throttle response, which seems to be the general consensus. With the stock throttlebody, when Id accelerate, it would accelerate decently enough for a commuter car. With the new throttlebody, it gains RPM's noticeably faster. It's not a massive improvement, but you can certainly tell that it reduced or removed a restriction on the intake.
Hey guys. Love the video. I am doing this swap this weekend. I am also waiting for the longer bolts to come in. I want to get it on now though because I am waiting on doing my tune. what is the part # of the bolts you got from home depot until the actual right size bolts come in?
You aren't wrong. The completely open factory airbox indeed does suck in hot air, but sadly, so do most of the aftermarket intakes. For example, the Roush, FSWerks, and k&n are all short-ram intakes which are all functionally the same as mine, save for a piece of thin-gauge metal that the filter mounts to. If I had ever gotten particularly picky about temperatures, a $10 roll of Aluminium self-vulcanising tape would have fixed the issue. Also, this intake was just recently switched for the AEM cold-air intake, which is a true cold air intake.
Putting the lid back on the box would have fixed it too, and the engine would have sucked air through the fresh air (cold air) ducts that come in from the grill. ANY (including AEM) intakes that have the filter open in the engine compartment is going backwards. They like to market the rubber seal at the top of the barrier as "sealing" to the hood, but it is not air tight, or even close. Unless it is a totally enclosed system with a duct that brings in fresh, outside air, it is not a "cold air intake." I know they sell a ton of things with that title. it's bothered me ever since they came out, taking advantage of people who really don't know about engines and cars. You could buy a muscle car in the 1960's that had a true "cold air" system. It was called "fresh air" then. Air would be ducted to the air cleaner on the carburetor from outside the engine compartment either through a hood scoop, or scoops, or through the radiator support, behind the grill (which was pretty big back then.) Today I see a "cold air" kit on a car and I ask the owner where the cold air comes from. Sometimes they point to an incidental hole in the inner fender about the size of your fist (no air actually comin through, just there to lighten the weight), and it is obstructed by hoses, wiring harnesses, and other things. Just goes to show how little they know about their car. These people are being taken advantage of by every manufacturer of these kits. Did the owner of this car get it dyno'd before and after the throttle body swap? It would be nice to get some measured information.
@@1001Hobbies Well, as its MY car, no, it wasn't dyno'ed before and after. Also, the AEM does actually qualify as a true cold air, as it relocates the filter end of the intake to directly in front of the radiator, directly behind the holes in the bumper that direct air into the radiator, which is what my car has now. And as you pointed out, every SRI does the same thing, which is suck in hot air. The difference is that I didn't pay $250+ for it. I ran it for almost four years like that, and never once had an issue with it being open, aside from the filter needing more frequent cleaning.
I know it's been a hot minute since you posted this video, is the part number changed? Having problems finding the part with number listed. Thank you, good video.... Appreciate the knowledge, insight, and your time.
I have a K&N Typhoon CAI installed on my 2012 Focus. Will the hose still be able to fit over the 2.3L throttle body? If so, I definitely see this as a future mod to my car.
I have the same Intake on my 13. Did your intake throw any engine codes? Or make the engine knock? The intake install on my car made it run like shit. I made sure everything was tight/no vacuum leaks
No. My car is running perfectly fine. I've had the intake on for about 4 or 5 months now. That is really weird the intake caused your car to run rough.
Could you provide the link to the throttle body you had purchased? I have looked all over and can't get a straight direction on the subject. Also, did you have to calibrate anything after installing this throttle body?
I will have to check with Brian regarding that, but as we're currently in the winter season there will be too many other variables currently affecting MPG (winter wheels and tires, traffic, fuel blends, etc) to isolate any changes from just the throttle body.
No, there wasn't a noticeable difference in MPG before and after. Well, if I kept my foot off the gas, anyways. But with it sounding better, and revving much smoother, it made it hard to drive economically...🤣🤣
Installed one today on my 2014 Titanium w/ K&N Typhoon CAI. Super easy and quick! Biggest problem is getting the hose coupling from the intake over the throttle body. A little Vaseline and elbow grease got it on. Will have to remove the bolts that hold part of the K&N heat shield to get it lined up right. Seems like the throttle response is noticeable but might be b/c I️ know I️ just installed this and that’s what’s expected. Letting my buddy drive it tomorrow to see if he notices any real difference (he drives a stock Focus). Will update with an impartial opinion.
I haven't noticed a massive difference, but I installed the throttle body when the car was parked for a couple of weeks (when it was undergoing other work), so I couldn't drive it back-to-back. Other owners have noted minor differences on stock turbo but I installed it in anticipation of a larger turbo down the road.
Yeah I recently purchased the SCT x4 with a tubing software for a 16 se. if I were to swap out for this size TB and update the ecu for it would I receive more benefit than bolt on without the ecu tune?
Absolutely. The larger throttlebody allows more air to flow into the engine, so a tune will add a bit of fuel to compensate for that, which you'll notice.
i read stuff on the fordfocus fanatics forum that this throttle body makes the computer on the focus freak out..and so it doesnt "really" work... any feedback on this brian?
No computer freakouts or any other weird behaviour. Some have noted mild "surging", but I never noticed that. It really was as easy as it seemed in the video, and while it may not make much from a "horsepower" sense, having the engine acceleration smooth out makes it easier to drive.
