3:40 I do paint and body too and everything Sam told you is 100% true. There is a HUGE difference between production/insurance work and custom/restoration work. There will always be a trade off. If you want speed, you will get shrinkage in the primers/clears. It's because all paint products have their own cure times until they are fully dried. So essentially, when you put 2K primer on bodywork, a restoration shop will wait a week + before they even put a block on the car to start sanding it flat. Keep in mind too the colder it is outside the slower it will take to fully cure. The exact process goes for the clear coat when cut and buffing it. If you sand the clear the next day and start buffing it, you risk a lot of shrinkage happening. The best way to describe shrinkage is when the clear gets more orange peel just after you finished blocking and polishing the clear flat. When doing insurance all this goes out the window because you need speed and quality. A lot of OEM finishes are not flat like this car so you can get away with shrinkage and a bit of dieback in the clear and 99% of the customers will never know what they are looking for. There are products today from Sikkens and Evercoat that use UV technology for body filler/primer that cause 0 shrinkage and maximum speed but it would make 0 sense to use on a restoration like this because the price is like 10x the cost and can be achieved with regular high grade bodyfiller/glaze, 2K primer.
Cant wait to see the race between you and your bother. Awd vs awd. Tell you bother stop being so damn particular and finished the car. 4 times bay is painted 🎨 😂😂😂😂. All in the details, right. Lol much respect to you guys.
