Thank You SO much for taking the time to record this video. My father bought a new mower about three years ago and paid a pretty penny for it. Well, he’s had some trouble with now the solenoid has gone out and I’d have absolutely no clue how to change this or even know what to look for had You not made it possible. Only problem for me now, is finding it. I think this brand/model might have it under the seat between a bracket and the battery but I’ll find it on the diagram. You’re a real blessing. May God Bless You and Yours.
I changed one on a small tractor mower on video, you should be able to find that video in my small engine playlist, it might be helpful in finding yours. In any case it will be the first place the positive battery cable goes to.
Beat video EVER! Thank you for showing how to use a solenoid that isn't the exact one. This is exactly what happened when I went and bought one and I also did not know to put the extra ground wire on. Your video was the just like sitting there with my dad explaining how to put it on and how to make what you have work! Thank you so much and I hope I can find a video you have done on changing the blades!
Spring is here, and needed this. We'll get the solenoid changed when I can get out of the house, but with covid19 out there, this got it done. Thanks so much!
I bought that exact same solenoid and tossed the black grounding wire that came with it , just like you did . If I knew your address , I would send you a case of beer for the headache that your video has just saved me. Thanks man .
The assembly of the lawn mower could be done without any problems ru-vid.comUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend I just puzzled something about the red strange “key”. However, it quickly turned out that this creates a kind of contact bridge between battery packs and lawn mowers. An additional backup as a father of a 1 year old nephew is great!! :-)
Hey Martin, how are you? I have uploaded several videos over the last couple of weeks, I guess Google isn't emailing all my Subs. when I put one up. Thanks for keeping in touch.
Hey thanks for uploading this vid, this kind of stuff helps out more people that you might think. My mower is doing the same thing the solenoid is clicking but it won't start. I bypass it, kind of like you did and it starts up just fine so I'm going to get a new solenoid, I'm tired of jumping that thing. I've been using cables on the battery and hitting the starter with the hot wire haha.
Mine doesn't do that...it's a click, click, click in quick succession and I already had it serviced and they replaced the starter and the fuel solenoid and rebuild the carb. I replaced the starter solenoid myself when I had your issue in this video. Just pisses me off that it might be the starter AGAIN. 1 damn mowing and I bet it'll be another 4 weeks in the shop.
Sounds like your shop has "quick change artists" working there just trying this and that until they get it and letting you pay for their on the job training. Sorry to hear that.
Im guessing bad ground. I was sure my starter solenoid was bad, but after some testing, found my ground to tge engine was bad, causing the starter to loose it's ground and not start.
I just purchased a new solenoid, it was different than mine. When mounting the brackets the brass circle bottom is now on its side making no contact with the tractor-is that OK?
If the new solenoid has 2 energize terminals, ( the small ones) it's ok to mount in any position, just ground 1 terminal and the other one to the ignition switch, if the solenoid only has 1 energize terminal then the base needs to be grounded to the frame or via a wire to ground.
Sometimes that unused mounting tab on the new solenoid will slip down inside the existing threaded hole, and will help hold it in place. Did you think to try that when you mounted yours?
Hey man. My Scag clicks and doesn’t start when I turn the key. Doesn’t even try to crank. Battery has power, but when I bypass everything like you did, the engines cranks but won’t turn over. What do you think?
I have a snapper pro T50 briggs motor. went out to mow and it wont start. battery charged, plus i tried jumping it with my car. nothing. humming noise comin from behind seat left side. please help
If you bypassed the solenoid and the starter cranks but solenoid doesn't work then either the solenoid is bad or there is a bad connection somewhere in the wiring or switch.
I had the "click problem" today about an hour after the tractor had been running fine. It's happened before but the motor would always start on the second or third try...not today. I don't have a multimeter, or a lot of mechanical savvy for that matter, but the tractor started after I manually turned the engine a little bit. I believe there's a bad spot somewhere in the starter system, but I don't know exactly what. Any explanations?
I need to do a different video on running down the no start problem, I don't know when I can do that. Just bypass the solenoid and if it cranks good then the starter is still good. Check all of your cable connections and the copper wire going into the terminals, everything must be tight and nothing getting hot at the end of any wires.
remove i wire at a time to new solenoid never take all off and blink those two big battry wires RED 1 each on big post thats all the small post need 1 grounded the small one should have red wire from key switch so what happens if you turn on the key you are connecting 12 volts to the small bolts on the solenoid which make a magnet opperate in the solenoid conn the two big bolts togeather sending 12 volts and high amps into the startor to make it spin
Assuming the tractor drives fine without the deck engaged, I hope you checked underneath for rope, wire, rags or something bound up on the blades? Check to make sure there is nothing under the deck or on top in the belts and pulleys, everything is moving free then I don't know what else, I would have to chase it down.
I put a new cylinoid on my Kawasaki 23.5 hp engine the end of the summer is it possible it could've gone bad I'm having the same issues as you were having in this video
Jump the energize terminal of the solenoid to the battery terminal of the solenoid and if it cranks that way then it's probably the ignition switch or the wiring between the switch and the solenoid. If it still doesn't crank but it will if you jump the 2 big terminals then it is the solenoid. Let me know what you find.
Mine clicks but starts to turn over, and then after a few cycles dies. Replaced the battery already. Used to use my car to jump it but that doesn't even work now.
Probably bad starter. You need to eliminate any possibility of bad connections or bad wire first. Here's a link to a similar job I did on a truck, same problem, same procedure, only bigger and ended up replacing the starter too, probably because the bad connections didn't allow enough current flow to the starter and it cranked too slowly and burned it up. Watch part 2 also. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aDo65CQ5Vv0.html&lc=UgwlOnZ4Y5wSx9B0kup4AaABAg
@@chriskelso7597 if it's a Briggs engine they have a compress release on cam lobe and valves have to be adjusted exactly for that feature to work properly I basically acts like the battery is almost dead and turns over slow but once you adjust the valves it spins freely. .pull spark plug and see if the starter will spin faster that way it's a quick test to see if the starter will spin qicker
The solenoid should make a solid click sound when energized, should not hum, you need to check the connections, copy from another electric start motor, doesn't matter what machine or motor, almost all these motors have the same setup, just follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the solenoid if you can't see where it is, get access to it and copy the wire connections, and make sure all connections are clean and tight.
Gordon Robertson I opted out and got a 3 prong solenoid and it turned but did not start. Now starter wont even turn and it's warm to the touch. I guess I'll replace the starter?
Yeah probably, but still remove all connections and clean with sandpaper, a weak connection will overheat the starter, also try jumper cables from your car or a good hot battery directly to the starter bypassing the solenoid and battery cables, clamp the neg. on the starter and the pos. on the starter terminal (clamp the positive cable onto a screwdriver and touch the starter terminal with the screwdriver) for a test before you buy a starter. Let me know what happens.
Gordon Robertson i cleaned all connections as you suggested and it just clicked. i removed starter and tried to start it with cables, starter did not engage.
sounds like the starter, I guess you checked the motor to see if it turns by hand? maybe pull the spark plugs and see how easy it turns. I think I paid about $80.00 for a Brigs starter for a 20 hp 2 cylinder.
Are you getting a big spark when you jump the 2 big terminals? if not, the battery power isn't getting to the starter either because (1, the battery is not charged or bad, (2, bad connections in the cables or bad cable, (3, the starter is bad, has an "open circuit" power not getting through the starter. In any case the power isn't getting to, or through the starter. If you're getting a big spark and the starter won't run then the starter is bad. Try checking it with jumper cables from a car, if it works with that, then your problem is in your battery or wiring.
Gordon Robertson thanks for the quick reply and advice. It turns out the ground wire had come loose. Tightened it up and I was back in business. Thanks again!
my toro riding mower starts, but has weird symptoms...takes up to three seconds for it to crank after turning key...or struggles to turn the starter at all until i turn the key back and forth up to three times before it cranks. the battery is brand new and in perfect charge and load tested. can anyone suggest what i should check or replace? thanks!
Check all your cable connections, both ends of each cable from the battery to the solenoid and to the starter, including the contact between the starter and the motor and motor to frame. You can bypass all those cables and jump the starter like I did on my video. After proving all connections are good and jumping the starter fails then change the starter. If the starter jumps good then check your ignition switch and it's connections. I have another video on a similar problem I fixed on a big truck, same procedure only bigger. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aDo65CQ5Vv0.html see part 2 also.
I have a jd mower that rapidly clicked when I try to start it, i replaced the solenoid and battery but it still rapidly clicks when I try to start it any ideas?
Bypass the solenoid the way I did on the video when mine wouldn't start to check the starter, if the starter runs good that way then check ALL YOUR CABLE CONNECTIONS to make sure they are clean and tight, if that doesn't do it then check to make sure your solenoid connections are correct, next, try a different solenoid. Let me know what happens. Thanks for watching.
I did another video on a different lawnmower a few weeks back, maybe there's something in this one that might help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gY4LwCxjrmM.html Let me know when you get it going or if you still need help.
