I'm an aviation technician for a major airline whose been trained in composit repairs. You are correct in starting small and moving to large. That is the correct required FFA repair layout for fiberglass and carbon graphite structures. Depending on the sanding taper and layers of fabric of the damaged area the replacement cloth bonded to these areas are the strength of the repair. for example if you have three layers of fabric you need three layers of fabric for the repair. The outer layer that is fared into the outer layer is used to protect the actual structure repaired fabric. Your doing a good job - excellent explanation.
You only live once brother! Find some time to enjoy the water with your kids and create memories! It's important too! Much respect, love your videos and you blessing us with knowledge. 😎👍
Daniell DeCamp Agree 1000% it is more important than putting weekly RU-vid videos or just about anything else...Spend that quality time with your family on the water...The rest of us can hang on hold, I bet most of us would be thrilled for you if you did that and then did a Video on the great time you had with the family...
Just a thought. Since you help so many around the world with their boat projects. Maybe it would have been an idea to have a board with pictures of projects that have been realized thanks to you in your workshop. Both to encourage you and others who are working on their projects. I just finished a boat that I would never have been able to complete had it not been for you and your RU-vid channel. All thanks to you Andy. Would love to have seen a video of you and your family and friends on the water as well. Remember to have some time for you and yours as well. Life does not have to be just work.
I was going to comment about the same 2 subjects, but you you put it in a perfect way, so I am with you there. Also, very nice idea of having pictures of the boats that have been repaired thanks to Andy and his videos, I did mine thanks to him, also. Cheer from florida.
I filled in an old exhaust hole perfectly from following these tutorials (we will not talk about the *other* holes I filled less than perfect ;) ). So could work out.
I restored my 1959 Glasspar Trident and watching boatworks today has always been amazing when it came to laying up glass, sanding, fairing, painting etc. I would gladly send in a picture, I totally agree that he should do this.
Andy, I love your channel and await your new Content each Sunday. You’ve done so much to help with advice for my projects. Do me a favor. Finish the Bertram, take your kids on the lake, crank up Cat’s in the Cradle and remember why we work so hard. Make as many awesome memories with your kids in that Bertram.
Andy, you have taught me everything I know about boats and I have rebuilt several boats. I almost cried when you said you have only been on a boat 2 times in 20 years. All my boat building has been to enjoy the boats on the water with my family. PLEASE get out on the water more. It is good for your soul. Thank you for all your videos.
Thank you for explaining why your prefer to laminate small to large. It does make more sense but when amateur's like me see different schools of thought we start to question why. Knowing the reasons experts have for their methods helps us understand the differences and enables us to feel that whatever method we chose to use it is a well informed choice. Enjoy the time with your family every chance you get. I wish I had listened to that advise much more than I did.
Hello! I built a 16ft wooden boat from scratch at a boat builder when I was 19yo, as a woodworker's apprentice. A rebuilt replica of my father's old speedboat (that was totally rotten). No fiberglass, just pine, plywood, and a 138hp volvo penta. That's my experience. After being an airline pilot for 10 years, I had to quit and re-invent myself into leather works, then upholstery, then eventually someone asked me to re-upholster his fiberglass polyurethane boat... I thought... yes, I can do it! But... no re-upholstery... Extras: "Now the floor appears to be rotten, and, can you move the seats back so I have 1 extra seat?" Well, I saw a few of your basics videos, bought some poly resin and fiberglass mat, plywood, etc, and I just have to say... Thank you! Me, being so procedure directed and specific about all the details, I loved that you also are, and I learned a lot from you, just in a day. You are saving me! ;) Keep up the good work. Be happy and enjoy life with your daughters and family!
In 45 years always done small to large, never had a failure in thousands of large blisters to large areas for multiple layers of layup for the repair. Gives you more control for an air pocket developing a few layers down when rolling it out, and controlling resin. As you say less fairing, in most cases sand then skim for air holes, depending on the surface, location, and the detail needed so it doesn't look like a repair.
My dad gave me my first boat, and it was a beater. But I loved it. He always said that it changed my life. Kept me out of trouble and gave me the the feeling of being grounded with the earth when I'm on rhe water. I wish that feeling for everyone young and old.
Andy, your an absolute champion, ill always recommend people to watch your videos if they ever need help with something! You have taught me alot over the years! I vote to keep the Bertram, start getting out on the water with the family more often. Time is precious, and money can't buy happiness.
Re: hole filling laminate sequence: Consider that the fiber provides tensile strength to the layup. Look at a cross section and consider the glass as stress lines. If you fill a hole big to little, the stress lines are no longer smooth and continuous. When Force is applied, this creates stress concentrations which become points of failure. Filling a hole little to big keeps the glass all in line with a nice tapered scarf to spread stresses. Do samples, cut out a strip across the middle of each, and bend them to failure. Big to little will not bend in a smooth arc, and will fail sooner.
Thank you! I knew in my gut that method didn't look right to me, and you putting it that way is a major 💡! Of course small to big is the right way to do it and now I can explain why! Thank you!
Your lay-up schedule makes perfect sense to me and that is the way I’ve always done it also. It’s a visual thing too, as you can actually see each layer as it builds up and outward and attaches itself to the substrate. Great video Andy. I’m enjoying every episode. Thanks.
Well done again Andy! Not that you need any affirmation, but I perform repairs in the same way and for the same reasons as you do. Always have and always will. Good luck with your surgery, I have a different one coming up soon myself! Sending prayers your way for a speedy recovery!🙏
U.S. Navy fiberglass repair 101, 1st patch, 1" larger than repair hole and 1" larger till entire area covered. every patch piece comes in contact with the hull.
I really enjoy this channel and agree with a lot of what you have to say; however, having work in the composites industry for four decades I always start large to small. I say this after having to supply test laminates for certification of repair procedures where we utilized various materials and techniques. The large to small always showed superior physical properties. It's really nice when the client pays to provide you with laboratory confirmation of your craftsmanship. Keep up the good work...
I like the fact that you talk all the way through your videos and explain exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it, keep up the good work mate.
Dear sir, Thank you for your great video's! I have been restoring my 36ft SY bottom-up for a couple of years now and I could never have gotten this far without your instructions. Little-to-big: Another reason for hand lay up small to large: in case you are laminating in bulkheads, stringers etc., it is easier to apply the more narrow fiber cloth over the joint first - even if there is already a tapered spacer and/or fillet in place. As of the radius is decreasing by each added sheet, it becomes easier to apply the next (wider) clothes. In case you laminate on a vertical joint, or even above your head, the weight of the first narrower cloth is less so it remains in place more easy when you apply it on the tacky hull surface. Finally, the resin added to the smaller cloth is unavoidable spilled a little on each side of the cloth, making a perfect preparation for the wider one. As to the (non) use of peel ply I can't agree with you. Basically you are selling (skilled) man hours. The more you can make in a limited time, the more you can earn (or take a day off). In my concept using peel ply tremendously reduces the working hours spend on sanding and other prep work (such as taking off the amine blush), especially in places hard to reach. It saves your lungs and it reduces the stress load on your muscles needed during sanding. Please do reconsider.
You definitely don't need people telling you what to do (i.e. critiquing how much time you spend on the water). Follow your heart. If helping people w/ boatwork (plus wood-working etc.) is what "floats your boat", then so much the better for the rest of us who appreciate such help and accrued knowledge/experience. I see plenty of evidence of how your channel has benefitted people worldwide!
Thanks for doing this. I very much appreciate your reasoning for the products and procedures you prefer. Prior to watching your videos fibreglass was pure voodoo to me. Now, with a little care and diligence I can tend to the simple stuff.
I totally agree with doing a fiberglass repair with small pieces first building up with larger layers, it provides a much stronger bond and easier to fair out.
The way you've always discussed the lamination buildup makes perfect sense to me as well. I'm in the middle of a transom replacement project and the thought of there only being one point of contact between layers boggles my mind. As always, enjoy your videos and get so much out of them. Thanks!
I have to agree that working from smaller to larger just makes more sense. Each layer will have direct contact to the original structure or layout. It also makes sense that this would as a result require less sanding as each layer is filling the hole and building up. Where as starting larger, like you said means the whole patch will only be as strong as that first layers bound and would also result in a much thicker build up. Man, I also agree that trying to put this idea into text is a pain in the you know what. I always go smaller to larger and the results are always what I'm looking for if I do it right. They also require less sanding and yes I've tried both ways... Oh and I wanted to add as an old fart with three grown boys. I'm so happy to have the memories I created with them on the water. Trust me when I say this, make the time somehow to get out on the water with your children while they're young and they will thank you for it when they're older. My oldest is 35 now and he still talks about how much fun he had as a boy out on the lake with his family and my other boys do to. Don't take the chance that in the future you may regret not doing it because I can kind of hear that in your voice now when you talk about not doing it. I know there are probably a hundred things screaming that you can't make or don't have the time. Even if it's only a day or two a month for a few hours or less if it has to be, please find a way to make the time. The time with our children when they are young flies by so fast and if you're not very careful you'll miss it...
Love the channel! Ive always done glass like you. Just makes sense and has never failed. Just filled my 1964 donzi dash gauge holes that way! Worked out great!
Hi Andy. Selling the Bertram will mean the new owner gets a fantastic boat, you pay off the shop means less bills and an investment for the long term. Your channel is awesome. Great video thanks.
It is good to hear your opinion on the laminating schedule. The only place I have seen it suggested reversed is the Gougeon Brothers Fiberglass Repair Manual. All the other manuals I have read suggest start small and final large. Maybe they were thinking the epoxy bond made this work? I use only epoxy for all my projects, but I do it your way most of the time.
@@josh.kaptur I'm not sure, I've always started small and worked up, never even considered starting big until I saw quite a number of people doing it that way on here, though this is the closest I've come to any sort of reasoning.
Think about this……peel ply is just a piece of fabric wetted out with resin. I get it, it is a one time use item. What about the mixing cup, stir sticks and brush that you use to apply gel coat? They all go to the same place. I agree, this line of work produces tons of waste and it’s awful to look at. To me, cured resin soaked fabric is better than hard plastic 2.5-5 qt mixing buckets getting tossed after one use.
Andy, hi from New Zealand..I really appreciate your wisdom and advice, as someone working with fibreglass every week , sometimes every day of the week, your guidance and tips are always relevant to me. Please do enjoy some time on the water with your partner and kids. You’re actually investing in their memories as much as your own. 🤙
I commend you Andy for your comments on Peel Ply. The industry, commercial and DIY for any composite work is highly wasteful. Not entirely due to practices, but through methods for various reasons and of course, choice. The more thought that is put into work on composites to reduce waste, the better we and our future generations get to enjoy our planet.
Those girls will grow up sooner and before you know it they will have other interest and other friends and right now is the time to be bringing them out and letting them enjoy being on the water. To be honest I was surprised you don't go boating with them. Now is the time not years from now. Ask them if they would want to go out boating. I love your show and love the new project and format. Work is work and has no value except one day closer to the grave but the time with those girls is priceless I mean priceless.
I'm with you on the layering of the patches of fiberglass, starting big dosent make sense and during any other repairs being welded or wood working you always start small and work your way up. I'm more apt to go with a professional who's been doing it for 20 years with remarkable time saving, money saving results. I cant wait to finish my boat with everything I've learned from you knowing that it's the strongest repair that I could possibly hope for. Great work, amazing video's and I hope you continue working until the time you feel your done.👏👏👏
I' had both shldrs done, you won't be sorry, don't overdo things and do the physio, i''ve learnt so much from your videos going from small to lge makes good sense beginning of this year i new nothing about glassing now ii do all my boat repairs and even fix canoes for people. there is one thing i would like to ask in Australia gel coat is gel coat but waxed gel coat is called flow coat theyt don't seem to make the same destinction in the the USA .
Very informative video. Take the time and enjoy your kids now and make memories, when they are grown they're gone and you will have all the time you need to make money.
Wow, I've seen opposites. :/ I guess you do really want the largest part contacting the existing structure. But could use some sort of snowflake shape if you want multiple layers to have multiple points of contact with the original structure too. I wonder if it's worth making a few example parts and testing the strength? One being small to large, one being large to small, and one being a mix of both as you would cut snowflake shaped patches, so they interweave.
I have been doing glasswork for a marina for a decade. Self taught so research is everything. My first jobs were small to big because that’s what makes sense. Then I saw the complete opposite in the west systems manual so I began my research. David koba and Fernando Garcia Alonso left comments here that state why big to small is apparently the right way on boats. No clue for planes I’m in the marine business
Thanks for answering questions! You must have answered or shown how to fix my issue in the past. I have 1/2” drill holes in my transom that were put there to squeeze my transom to the outer hull shell when I replaced the transom. When I removed my transom I did it from the inside. If you have a video showing the best way to fill holes that size that would be great!
Also get a back log of footage to help you out with the down time mate. Even if its model boat hulls lol. A drop in content could hurt the wallet and amount of viewers due to current yt algorithms.
A long time ago, a body man that repaired Corvettes for a living told me the exact same thing about laminating the glass. Start small and go bigger on every layer. A flatter repair and less sanding. A car body vibrates and flexes continuously. A patch laid up big to small will not stand up to those stresses and will crack, right along the edge of the repair unless you do it the correct way. That's the way I've done it ever since.
Thanks for you videos and your online resources. It has made the process of my 1968 Swiss 6 a snap. New transom stringers floor and storage lockers and on and on and on. Just put simply thanks from one youtuber to another
Ooh now I get why you use gel coat before sanding. It's for speed and us as well as a way to cure and sand the surface of a non wax gel coat. I am working outside so I was going to use the spray because my hull is white on the bottom but I think Im going use gel coat.
Interesting answer to the peel-ply question. My take on the matter is this: peel ply is pricey, but so is gelcoat. And sandpaper. And resin. You'll save on all three, so it might be a wash. Landfill the peel ply or landfill the sanding discs and dust. But to each his own. Keep on with the videos. I'll keep watching.
Such knowledgeable information coming from you Andy!! Building my first scooter boat! You have taught me and are still teaching me so much!! Have a great day!!!!
I agree with your small to large laminating approach. The only time I would deviate from it would be if I were installing an eye-bolt. Then, I would make the local reinforcement laminate from large to small.
haha That sander is probably worth the same amount as the 70s Bertram boat I am doing up. (aprox 1600AUD). Edit: BTW There is never too much talking. I hang on every word. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for covering the very basics about the various epoxies, resins, glass cloths, etc... It world be great... and much appreciated if you can go a little deeper with the chemistry details. It might help to understand these details to truly understand what drives the overall performance and durability. Thanks very much! Keep up the great work! Ray
I go back and forth with smaller to bigger/bigger to smaller repair. I actually think bigger to smaller is better. I just feel like if the smaller patch is rite on the layer or just over it a little bit, that may be a weak point if it gets hit in the same spot. Just feel like the bigger patch will cover the whole area & if it will get cracked from another hit, the crack will only go so far. But you do have a good point. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for helping to reinforce my argument on the subject of starting small when laying out the mat. Hoping someday you will take on a sailboat grounding grid repair.
Thanks Andy. I always learn from your videos. FWIW, I prefer the large to small lamination method, and I use West System and PeelPly too. But I send others to watch your videos as I consider you the guru. Stay warm.
The downside of starting with a small patch is that you are highly likely to get a void at the edge of that patch. I learnt my lesson, so now I go with the West/Gougeon advice of big patch to small
Pro. Boat builder had an article on composite boat repair featuring an repair instructor from the airplane field. Their tests showed large first best as there is less air and or resin trapped at the edges of each layer.
Further up there are some comments from airplane mechanics stating the opposite. On another note: if they got trapped air or not properly cured resin they did something wrong anyway.
A surski and boatbuilder told me that gell coat with wax goes yellow eventually, if you want to keep it white the same as the hull you use none wax gell coat and you have to put something on to keep the air out ,he had big sheets of some sort of film as well as the stuff you spray . he said for small home repairs cut an platic ice cream carton up and strap it over the repair with tape and that would do it ,also flatting the surface as well
Large to small has the advantage of reducing loss of strength if you sand into the patch. Over sanding will only feather the edges of each ply in the patch. More important is prep before doing the patch. It doesn’t matter which method you use if you have a poor bond.
Hi and thanks for your vidéos.I can repair my kayak by myself now! For the sanders have you tried MIRKA sanders? I have one and think it's one of the best i've ever tried.
I have worked on V22 Osprey for 34 years all composite repairs are small to large per aeronautical engineering. You do it the right way. I see other people do it the opposite.
Dear Andy, probably many other people had already done the same question. I've seen many video of yours, but I can't find what I would like kindly ask you for. I'm Italian and my English is hard; perhaps this is the reason for not having found the answer. My question is: if, in a restoration below the waterline, I don't totally remove gel coat; but only where there are craks, and there I go on with sanding, laminating fiberglass. What type of substance should I use to fairing, suitable with remaining gel coat, and with next paint? Meanwhile I have understood that: 1) epoxy putty doesn't agree with polyester paint; 2) you like gel coat vs. paint; but I'm a beginner. Thank you very much.
I've used both the Festool Rotex (your model) and the Bosch GET 150, which is the Bosch equivalent of the Festool you mentioned. The Bosch is GREAT, and it's so much cheaper!
Just got to comment again. I’d like to see you finish the small red boat thus winter and in the spring take the girls out once in awhile. Don’t give me this crap about being to busy. If you don’t you’ll be sorry. The next thing you know your wife will be coming to your shop on a Saturday and say it’s time to go to the church and walk your daughter down the isle in your car hart overalls or Big Ben whatever. Love your videos and have learned allot from you, and when I purchase stuff from Jamestown I mention your videos and always give you a thumbs up. So take the time and enjoy them.
I start with small patch as well. On boats it probably doesn’t make a big difference but when I did Abaris workshop, which is more aerospace oriented, I was told that small patch first approach, according to their tests, does much better in all applications that involve twisting loads. WEST people, for some reason, do it backwards. Last comment, I promise 😁
Small kine ding repairs, New Zealand. Fix surfboards, sometimes kayaks. Always small to large, large to small not only has less contact area but also adds more edges to conceal with hot/sanding coats. Dig your vids
I do neither small to large nor large to small. I number the patches smallest is 1 second is two etc. Laying up 8 layers I start at patch 1, then 3,5,7,2,4,6,8. That way only half my layers are in direct contact with the hull but each one has a greater area that it's bonding directly to the hull.
Hi Andy! thnx for bringing us such a great ideas due to boatworks! a qustion tho; why not try both ways than sink them both for a while and than try to break them?
Love the information on your channel. very educational. Starting a project on a old CC. need to remove the fuel tanks. Yo do so i have to cut out some of the deck and enter hull fiber glass. A bit nervous about it, any advice other than get ready to start sanding?
The most important unions are the ones that involve the original laminate. Most delaminations occur at the perimeter of the cloth. Once you have a small delamination or blister, it will act as a seed and it will grow into a bigger problem. when you go from small to big the perimeter of every circle will be in contact with the original laminate, so you will have a much bigger chance of small delaminations that will work as seeds.
I use peel ply extensively in the current structural overhaul I am doing... granted, its just small Beach Cat. The two hulls are 17ft long, pretty narrow, and 99% of the glass work is done on the interior, so its really, really tight in there. I can't afford the time or the surgery to have cybernetic double joints to sand in impossible places... it saves me enormous amounts of time and frustration. I never go over the peel ply with additional resin, a wet hand lay-up is wet enough for the peel ply to soak through. I tried that method once on another repair job, which happened to be overhead (repairing core damage around a hatch, replaced the core from below because all the work is hidden by ceiling panels) and the extra resin I coated over the peel ply caused it to wrinkle and resin pools built up in the wrinkles. Anyway, the other added benefit besides the toothed surface and no amine blush is that the peel ply pull excess resin from the hand lay-up if weight is a concern. BTW, this all epoxy work, I don't use polyester resins in general but I would if the job called for it and that's why I love this channel!
Glad to hear your getting your shoulder fixed. I hope it doesn’t affect your channel and content. I am learning so much and have a large project I’m going to try. Do you have fill in content while your layed up
Whether you sell it or not, we need a payoff run on the lake. The viewers need the satisfaction of seeing it run after watching you restore it for months ;)
Hi, I like your content. Question I have seen many of your videos and none of them show you using vacuum bagging. I went to abaris composite school and they told me vacuum and heat everything to make sure you have proper adhesion. Is this a good idea on boats
