Mine locks up a lot quicker than yours if I don't manage the rope weight. I know this isn't meant as instructional. The first time I used it I found out...this was back in the day when you had to figure out a lot of things yourself the hard way.
Everything I know I taught myself over many years - I started rope solo with a modified grigri and zero oversight or instruction... not recommended! Managing weight of the rope is tough, on longer routes I'll prussik the rope into a piece/bolt with breakaway cord to hold the rope up as I climb above. I'll have to do a multipitch video soon.
Hey, don't think you mentioned it, but can I ask the reasoning behind clipping the silent partner through the tie-in-loops versus the belay loop? Genuinely curious as it seemed you had the tie-in-loops held close with a sling on a larkshead/cowhitch?
Good question! A few reasons to use the tie in loops, starting with: that's what the manual says to do :) I also like it because it holds it closer to my body, so in the event of a fall it's still waist level and not closer up to my chest. Tying in via the belay loop would also rotate it 90 degrees, and I appreciate having the rope on the "left" and "right" rather than front/back, if that makes sense. The girth hitch/larkshead/whatever you see is not for the integrity of the harness at all - that is my PAS that I use to tie in to the anchor when I know I will need to get myself off belay at the anchor.
Ooohh. The Dark Art of rope solo. Nice climb. We have a guy at Buck's Bar that uses a silent partner. They look pretty reliable. I like TR solo on shunt but I will want to get a few more (thousand) trad miles on before even trying this.
@Malcolm Hansell I back the shunt up with a ropeman - but ONLY on TR solo. I would never use that setup on a self belay. The shunt is clearly listed as a fall prevention device, not a fall arrestor. I have seen some failure videos of the shunt, even though Dave McLeod uses it in his self belay, I would not.
On longer routes (especially multipitch!) I tie figure 8 backup knots every 20-30' and clip them to my harness with individual mini locking D carabiners. This particular climb I didn't use that system, which adds risk no doubt. Andy Kirkpatrick is working on a new edition of Me, Myself, and I which I'd highly recommend if you're interested in rope solo technique, especially on bigger walls.
@@stilldavid Cool. I read the first edition. Can't wait to see the new one. I believe slip knots are another option so you can undo them with one hand.
Oh man, I want a silent partner SO bad. How did you get yours?? I’ve been rope soloing on a grigri for about a year now and I’d totally pay a thousand bucks for one.
Just bought one for 1000 cad. My faith in fellow climbers has been reaffirmed after years of waiting 😂 I’ll still stick to a grigri for freezing temps though
Absolutely, and that has the benefit of built-in backup knots! Sometimes I use a bag with the rope coiled in it on my person as well. Both have the benefits of carrying less weight the higher up you go.
Don't worry what others think... unless they are being courteous and reiterating a safety tip brother! You obviously know what you are doing. Subscribed.
Nice to see how the Silent partner works but you should have extended your runners and backed up the rap! Others who might follow your example could fall.
Agree 100% I should have backed up my rap, I mention this in the video :) As for extending runners, this line is pretty plumb up and down and the pieces placed were not at risk of walking. Thanks for the feedback!
Not sure exactly what you're asking, but I didn't extend every piece because it's a short climb and pretty near a straight line up. For routes that wander I definitely keep draws and runners on hand! For the anchor it doesn't matter how extended the pieces are, so long as it's set for an upward pull and there's a piece at the top to keep slack out of the system.
All good except the single bolt clip in at the anchor. At around 7:15 you are on only one of the anchor bolts. People have died when a single anchor point blows. Looks like you are having a blast otherwise.
As he removes the silent partner before the rap, he is clipped into only one bolt. This is not redundant. There have been incidents where singe bolt anchors have failed resulting in catastrophe. Always clip into both anchor bolts if you can.
@@palminator73 this happens like once a decade on really old bolts. given that he isn't weighting it, has a bomber stance, and he'd risk a factor >=1 fall on a static PAS anyway, this is super good enough imo