Be honest here as how many times did fingers get in the way of the English Wheel wheels? Using a design that had a bottom kicker wheel for tightening, I found it too easy to "Jump" ahead on the pressure. I guess it's human nature to try to speed up the shaping. That simple wheel takes the temptation away. Great info! Thanks for covering the subject. DK
Real lead used for filler is really the BEST way to fill high wear areas!!! It can take imact very well! If you are having problems with paint lifting or bubbling, YOUR cleaning of the lead was NOT done properly!!! You HAVE to neutralize the acid and beeswax lube!!! IF YOU DON'T problems WILL be the result!!! Lead was used on ALL american cars at ALL SEAMS for years! When the paint wore off the older cars, THAT is when moisture got under the edges. Properly done lead in the seams and edges with a 2K urethane sealer and 2K paint system will be as long lasting and bulletproof as you can get! I was a painter/body guy for over 40 plus years and used to do high end (Duesenberg, Cadillac, Packard, etc.) restorations and do show winning custom paint. On drag cars.(Candies, pearls, really trick stuff.).
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Since the 90s I always remove the lead and weld metal in its place. Most of the lead seams have slight cracks from body movement or they end up showing as a different shape.
crazyrat51... I laughed when I read what you wrote. You’re showing your age man, lol. You explained it perfectly about the acid and bee’s wax TALLOW being removed. All the body work in the old days were done in lead only and not just used on seams. I used to do this when restoring a car of the 30’s and it took a long time to get the feel of it especially when applying lead on a vertical panel ... Those Coach built bodies also posed a problem doing, lol. I used 60/40 lead /tin bars but one thing is for sure, once done correctly there was never and cracking or bubbling. The fumes from the lead is the real problem here. Your post brought back a flood of memories, thanks.
We used to replace 1/4 panels at the lead seam (back in the day). Rather than welding, we used brass plug welds to stabilize the seam, (3/16th to 1/4 inch holes depending on thickness), and then ran brass to fully cover the seam. Of course. a small tip 00 to 000 on an oxy/acetylene torch and a wet rag were always used to prevent warpage. We then ground and wire brushed the brass seam to get all of the hardened flux off, and then tinned and re-leaded the seams. It was actually fun to do. It was fast, super strong, and with the right technique for tinning and finishing the lead, it just needed primer to prep for paint. Because brass can be used at much lower temps, there is no hardening of adjacent metal, and the adhesive nature of brass absolutely prevents stress cracking. Thanks as always for the great videos, it is fun to watch the projects and techniques you have perfected!
Karl Fisher (Make it Kustom) just did this on his channel with the paper, and how it shows where the metal needs to be shrunk or stretched. The paper he used wasn't the old onion paper, but it was pretty thin.
Hey Travis good to see you grow and Thank you sharing your content ...I'd Like to Share something as well..take it or leave it..I got an idea from a channel and I've been using clear see through vinyl. I can see what pattern iam tracing ..it's been working for me. Maybe us Thin Vinyl to give you a more accurate pattern?
as you explain expansion and contraction and then saying that even lead can crack by eliminating the seam with panels why won't they crack at the welds ? after many years
