If you have ever seen an old car battery terminal with "Fuzz" all around the outside - those are "Tin-Whiskers" and they are always growing and growing inside of ROHS electronic devices today. Leaded solder is why Vintage Computers from the 1970-90's are still working in this century.
That explains why my sisters 8-year-old iPhone had its Wi-Fi and then its Bluetooth fail within a month of each other.... :( Got to love planned obsolescence, not enough that they break them with software as well.
Well, really, I tore down an old powered bass module from BOSE and all of the solder joints were cracked where the heat sink connected to the amplifier chips. That thing was bought in 1995 and was definitely using leaded solder. I recently tore down a 2008 computer PSU that used lead free solder. Aside from having to use a blow torch (not literally) to de-solder the joints, there was no whisker growth anywhere on the PCB or other components. In fact, even the heat sink connectors were solid as hell.
@@kpadalldotablet1009a rare scenario although its not uncommon to see sound systems having cracked solder but they are still way better then today stuff dosent last 5 years
I've got some 63% tin, 35% lead, 2% silver solder (£10 for 250g from hobbyking) Lovely stuff, flows like liquid silk, shines like jewelry - treat yourself Pawel, you won't regret it.
That are interesting news. It was still in my mind that unleaded solder sucks. Not so long ago i ditched 40% lead solder for 37% lead solder because i fell in love with it’s „digital“ flow behavior. No intermediate phase but solid to liquid within 1-2 degrees.
Led free solder is not that bad as you grandfather remembers! The problems is that led free solder isn t that flexible because doesn t have lead, and using it to solder cpu or chips that get s hot and cold all the time can crack the solder.
I was an aerospace soldering instructor and tried lead free solder a few years ago, was an awful experience. I notice all kinds of lead-free solders and fluxes being advertised now, maybe I'll try it again but have plenty of good old 60/40 rosin core solder and rosin paste flux on hand. Is there a good reason to switch to lead free solder and lead-free flux for occasional electrical/electronic hobby soldering? First time solderers need to understand the basics of "solder-bridge" heat transfer, care of soldering iron tips, proper stripping and tinning of stranded and single-strand wire, use of flux and observing proper solder flow. They don't need the challenge of higher temperature lead-free solders and non-rosin flux.
EU is cracking down pretty hard on lead and the only source now would be private Sellers as it's pretty much banned from sale as far as I know. Good to know there's alternatives cause if lead free solder was still anything like what I used 10 years ago I would probably just quit the hobby
For hobby use, aviation and other critical equipment it is still very much legal to sell and buy within the EU, but since those only are a small percentage of the sellers' income, few actually still sell it, often at a significant markup, usually still cheaper than lead-free though
@@lawabidingcitizen5153 I think that dipping circuit boards in solder bath techniques, with lead fumes, is reason lead-free fluxes and solders were developed for safe electronics manufacturing.
Personally I'd be interested in seeing how well or not the various solders you had would work with large battery wires to an esc and or motor wires onto an esc.
I used some lead-free (with copper only) years ago and honestly when using flux it wasn't so bad to apply either. I think the real problem is the long term stabilty. Cold joints, whisker growth, oxidation... It's always a PITA to desolder pretty much anything from a post-2006 (RoHS) PCB compared to the older ones. The joints are mostly dull and oxidized, cold joints on hot components are far more common too. So I think if you solder professionally in (or for) a country which banned 60/40, the silver stuff is probably worth the extra cost if you wanna provide a reliable and well servicable product.
You are probably correct here. I'm in this comfortable position that I can buy 60/40 no problem and I'm an amateur. So lead poisioning is not a problem with my amount of soldering as well
What I know about lead free could fill an encyclopedia. As for the leaded solder alloys including silver content solder, this is where I have learned a great deal. The best leaded solder alloys are pure eutectic alloys. A pure eutectic has only two states of being. It’s either liquid or solid. This clearly an advantage as having only two states makes it more stable and easier to work with. The same goes for silver content leaded solders. The ratio of tin to lead to silver is 62%tin, 36% lead and 2% silver. This ratio makes them a pure eutectic alloy as well. The non silver leaded ratio for a pure eutectic alloy is 63% tin to 37% lead. The best flux core is an RMA, rosin mildly activated, flux core. This has been proven over decades of use in avionics, missile electronics and bio medical electronics where dependability and reliability are key to successful completion of mission tasking. In what was then used under DOD STD 2000-1 and currently under J STD 006 level 3 which are equivalent standards. These are both critical circuits standards for soldering excellence. When used under these standards, the joints produced are capable of withstanding G forces, mechanical and physical stresses and thermal inversions with great success. Failure at this level is intolerable. Human life, the pilot and or crew as well as a class A asset are at stake, not to mention mission success and accomplishment. There is no place for mediocrity in such an environment. 60/40 solder alloys have what is called a plastic range which means they have three states of being as opposed to two for pure eutectic alloys. The appearance of pure eutectic solder alloys with an RMA flux core is the base of any successful electronics soldering that requires the highest reliability and quality. Decades of this proven success cannot be overlooked or overshadowed. It is a proven fact. The best appearance is achieved by the above combination of flux core and alloy. The lead free alloys are making progress and I am certain someone can chime in and help those who want to learn or improve their soldering using this type. I welcome constructive help from those whose experience will be helpful. I’m sure their are those who want to make the change to the safer alloys.
@markphilpot8734 I don't know 🤷 I was asking to see if you knew of a solder alloy higher than 2% silver that was eutectic since you know a lot and have been around the field. I was curious myself since I like the silver solder. I wanted to see if there were other variations that contained lead.
To Mr. Ruben, I cannot in good faith recommend any solder over 2% silver content not made by any of the brands I trust with confidence. The 4% silver content solder is a hyped audiophile solder that lacks the validity of proven use over decades in the hardest of use environs the proven solders have. The choice is yours. I can’t advocate any solder that is not a true pure eutectic solder that has a greater content of silver than the 2% that the approved brands I trust have. Kester, AIM, Alpha Metals and Multicore are the only brands I trust.
Ruben, this shows me just how advanced you are on this journey. Direct response is an issue for some reason on this platform so I hope it doesn’t escape your sight.
silver solder i picked up is horrible 😂 can barely melt it for more than half a second using a 500c iron. despite the masses of specific flux, it prefers to fly away from what your soldering rather than attach. having not much luck.
Lead free solder will oxidise rightaway after the heat removed and it will be hard to remelt. So it's pretty much a one-shot product not allowing any mistakes. But most of lead-free soldering wire doesn't require flux on the working surface since it has flux core.
What about the temperature differential? I always read that tin with lead has a much lower melting point, which means less heat put on the boards and on the components. Is this still dramatically different or is the difference negligible by now?
I've used 60/40 for 60+ years (i'm 71 years old, started soldering at age 11) and I'm still here and still using it with SOME of my mental faculties. Do yourself a much bigger favor and quit eating salt.
Is there any sort of consensus on Bismuth solder? I’ve wanted to get into soldering for a while, but I absolutely refuse to touch anything with lead in it. Bismuth seems like it’d make a good substitute, and it seems likely you could use it to get a low melting point solder that doesn’t have to deal with whiskers or fragility. I was wondering if anyone knew if anything like that’s been put out there yet.
Also if you have a temperature controlled iron start low and gradually increase the degrees. Leaded solder should begin to melt @ 180 degrees Celsius maybe 183 depend on which type or brand of solder you use. It will melt and flow like hot butter with flux. Lead free usually requires a lot more heat.
for those working fault-finding on PCBs, identifying dry joints is an important part of an inspection. Whilst UN-leaded solder may be OK to apply, when it comes to inspection later on, even good joints look very much like dry joints would (if leaded solder had been used). So basically, unleaded solder often makes repair and rectification harder and more expensive.
Be impressed that someone from another country learned such fluent English in the first place and thankful for the informative content rather than judging them on an easy to make pronunciation mistake. Could at least be nicer while still letting them know their mistake... English is one of the harder languages to learn as it has such inconsistent "rules", including heteronyms like lead vs lead, which are much rarer in most languages (with some exceptions like Japanese and Chinese, which are also among the harder languages to learn).
