Found your vids very useful. I use step flashing for my work but often find myself wishing I could weld. I'll buy your DVD when it comes out. Many thanks, Chris.
Nice work!,Ive been a lead burner for 25+ years,I have to get some videos up, i use oxy,and Hydro, camera camquarter,, shoud be in neext week,always nice to see a true mechanic,took alot of years by a old timer,teaching me,,Thanks,Jack
nice little vid, im a lead burner (roofer) and do this day in day out, i use a boc model o torch with heads ranging from 1-3. i tend to use a smaller flame and no filler rod, unless the lead is dirty or rain weathered. ill try and get a response vid up over the weekend.
@mrmint74 I was introduced to it in the 60'is at a tec college. However many people i have trained.pick it up in a week and go on to be better than i. Good Luck
hi peter, my dad wanted some lead welding for his roof on his new house so told me to look at your post on here, very impressive ! i tried tig welding it first on the lowest setting pos , 20 amps on DC 1.6 thoriated tip, you have to be bloody quick but it works really well, i did half of the laed work then he tried himself with small torch and solder which works really well too, just thought id share that with you just incase you wanted to try something different, cheers Dave
Hi. Thanks Kempouk, I wanted to show both flat and upright in the same clip, in this instance. It is only when view by another pair of eyes that these issues are exposed.
The size of flame depends on the code of sheet lead (Thickness) you intend to work on. The gauge pressure should be around 2 pounds per square inch. If the flame is to hot turn both gases down until you can cope with the flame temp.
Hi Thanks for you words. You may have found it a bit strange but what i am doing is making a dvd on all aspects of lead welding and the bits you see on You Tube are bit from the yet not completed film. I value your feed back and look forward for more once completed.
Hi. That sounds standard, the flame is less controllable than oxy/acetylene, but for bench work, where the item can be turned to suit flame it will do the job.
you will find that filler rods should always be use on flat work, as this needs to be reinforced with extra lead. on a flat weld you can have 3 welds o the same line (reinforced weld) one to the left of the joint, one to the right, and one weld on top of the other two. 45 degree welds or vertical tend to use no filler rods, but as justlead explained you can use a rod if needed. very informative vid.
@murrayhay Hi Murry Oxy/act and modle "O" torch, set gauges around 2ilds each. Be mindful of fire when welding in position. I would cut open split area and slide in a piece of galv sheet under the area i wished to weld, leave it there. I still have editing to complete before publishing and will be for sale at £30-00 for 2 dvd set. Good Luck
it helps to have some kind of material behind the weld to absorb the heat of the weld as this will help you not to burn holes in your lead. a timber or a weld plate should be sufficient. as if the heat isn't exchanged then the welding material will absorb to much heat and will become susceptible to problems.
I was taught how lead weld at 14 years of age, at the time they said the new material nuralite which was a bitumous sheet was replacing it, lead is still used. We used to make all the roof flashing and gutter boxes etc, however on your video you do not clean the lead of both mating areas nor do you add lead, you are using both parent metals to fuse, as I understand, this produces a very weak joint and thins the lead along the weld, I've never seen it done like this, alway add filler to give strength to the join, and always clean the run before, that's how everyone was taught.
Hi John We must be around the same age as the nuralite thing was being marketed via colleagues in the 60is. Yes cleaning is a big part when lead welding along with adding metal via a filler rod. It's not clear on video but a bit of using a shave hook was employed. One thing that has changed over time is the fact sheet lead is not stored in wet or damp areas any more which makes welding on say a flat weld less time consuming as the lead is shinning like a dollar. However cleaning not only produces a clean weld it is also defines the width of the weld, making it visually neat.
Hi mate, this is a very effective example of how you experienced fellas weld, for a new comer like myself who does bits of building work/GRP roofing etc but always wanted to have a go with welding, got myself one of those small oxy turbo kits but don’t rightfully know how to set the flame before working on my technique, got any tips mate?
Make sure the white flame has a round tip,not pointed. Light gas first then slowly open oxygen, your gas flame needs to be about 2-3 inches long before opening oxygen, the white flame appears when oxygen is introduced.
Nice work. I have been successful with butt welds with MAPP gas, but I don't think the flame would be hot enough for a vertical weld. What do you think? Thanks for posting.
can i just point out that if you would of returned the left hand up-stand behind the back up-stand, then cut the back up-stand at 45 degrees you would have only one single weld instead of your flat weld. that just don't look right and shouldn't really be there.
@storts1 ,,wanted to show just a pic,, of my lead buerning out fit, dont see how, a whole video, which will be coming soon, But still a real craftsman,, and You probably have the same thing,'IT Looks so easy, Ok,Here try iy,, Just not on a sulfuric acid tank, !!LOL,ore a annode that we do,qite a Bit of,Jack.
2:36 not only is the weld completely wrong, there is far to much acetylene gas in the weld which causes a sooty residue, a blue residue means to much oxygen. no residue is a perfect weld. i would expect to see this quality of welding from my grandsons chemistry set. its crap. forward this weld to the LDA see what they have to say about it.
