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Hi, thank you so much for this video. I think the return ducts at the bottom of my fridge are blocked or clogged. The airflow only works when I open the freezer door like the video. How do I clean or clear the return ducts from the fridge to the freezer? Thank you!!
At 02:01 I show the return ducts, so you can look inside them and see if there's food that fell inside them, although a lot of stuff will have to be taken out of the fridge.. or use a cell phone camera to take some pictures inside. If those are clear, then they might be blocked at 2:32 , likely by ice. If this never happened before, and someone recently forgot a door open, like the freezer door, for a long time, then it's possible you have a one-time ice block that just has to melt.. and then your fridge will be OK. The vents are fairly big, so if they're not blocked in the fridge then they're likely blocked by ice buildup in the freezer. To figure out what's really going on, the back cover of the freezer has to be removed. There may be videos showing how to do it. With the back cover off, then the ice can be inspected. If there's ice from top to bottom, then the defrost system is not working: heater, thermostat or controller. If the ice is only on the top of the coil, but no ice on the bottom, like in the video, then the refrigerant is very likely low, and there's no fix for that. Hope that helps. If you get it fixed, it would be appreciated if you can leave a comment to let others know how it was fixed. Thanks for watching!
@@gamiyagi It depends what you mean by slightly frosted. Here's a picture of what bad looks like: www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2F6nwb1hyegalb1.jpg , a VERY thin layer of frost is normal. If you don't see a clear blockage or ice blocks, then it sounds like it's operating normally. Some fridges, especially with vertical freezers, have dampers between the compartments that sometimes get blocked. It definitely sounds like a blocked return vent if it flows with the freezer door open, and it does not with freezer door closed.
So good news, we were able to fix the fridge. We did so by unplugging the fridge and defrosting it for 24 hrs. And then I got a hair dryer and blew hot air into the vents for about 15 min and that cleared up whatever ice may have been in the vents.
@@gamiyagi Now you'll have to watch and see if it happens again. On mine, because the refrigerant was low, it would happen again in about 2-4 weeks. If the defrost system is not working then it happens fast, in just 5-7 days. Hope it keeps working good!
I have a big fridge with a separate freezer at the bottom. Currently, there is a lot of difference between the temperature at the bottom of the fridge and the temperature at the top (around 4 ot 5 degrees). This is because the cold air comes from the bottom and stays there but also because there is no fan inside this fridge. I want install a 12 fan in order to allow cold air to go up. Where and how shall I place it to maximise the uniformity of the temperature?
A damp clean cloth with a bit of soap should work, just don't drop anything inside there that will block the vents. There shouldn't be any mold, but that can happen if the fridge is not running properly, or it was turned off for a while and it stayed damp on the inside.
They're a bit raised to prevent liquid from going into them. If the spill is directly above the vent, then it will go in, but if it's anywhere else, it will not, unless there's a huge amount of liquid. Anything that ends up in there, will likely end up falling to the bottom of the return duct at 2:32. I did find some debris there on mine when I took it apart.
Yes, it should blow in both freezer and fridge though. That freezer fan blows air in both the freezer and fridge, so you should feel the air blowing inside the fridge with the freezer door closed.
When you set a fridge dial to a warmer temp, why would the damper move up ? It will cause more of a COLD air to flow through...leading to an opposite result - a colder temp What's wrong with my or author's explanation ?
That's the *freezer* dial I am showing. When the freezer is set to colder , then the *Fridge* damper closes the vent to the fridge partially. This means the fridge runs longer and more cold air stays in the freezer to cool it down more. I ended up turning the freezer to 1, which opens the vent the most. My freezer still stays around 0F. This allows the most air to the fridge, so the fridge runs less. If I set freezer to 5, it closes the vent, and fridge runs longer, but I don't need colder than 0F In the freezer. So a thermometer is needed to find the best setting. I had the freezer on 5 for a long time, and the fridge was running very long times, because the damper was half closed until I realized even on 1 the temperature is in a safe range. Once you have a thermometer, you can slowly turn the dials to warmer, and watch the temperature, making sure it stays in a safe range. I started with the freezer first, and then the fridge.
