I was trying to explain this to a New to ADV riding guy the other day I use this a lot in the bush to not stall the bike during obstacles, set the throttle at a higher RPM and as you say rock the bike I use this to create momentum and boom works a treat. I'll share this video with our group thanks so much cool and concise instructions Winner cheers. We were on KTM790 Rs the rest of the Group were riding DR650s there was also plenty of sand which was thankfully damp but a real pain on the 790. Happy Trails mate
Oh that's easy, start off with the vehicle parked and idling and hold your rpms at 1500. Release every 3-4 seconds and immediately rev to 1500 rpms again. Then start practicing at lower gears between 1-3.
Loved it! Nice. I really need to do some rider training. Went dirt biking on the weekend, for the first time in 30 years - forgot how awesome it was, especially with no expectations of myself.
My wife is wanting to move from a 400cc scooter to a small- medium motorcycle. She worries about having to use a clutch, especially on inclines. This video is a real eye-opener on how to get her started on clutch control.
Clutch related question- a more experienced rider than I recently suggested to maintain a steady throttle on trails and use the clutch to cut power to adjust speed etc. I was taught by a professional instructor with good riding and racing experience over his lifetime to leave the clutch alone as much as possible which means using the throttle. Former technique seems unusual to me. Which do you think is the better way?
You will need a healthy mix of both. More clutch control than throttle control in most situations. A lot of practice and some classes. After a good long day of offroading, my left hand resembles a claw and forearms sore for the week. I would think the racer instructor focused on street riding.
I’m also looking for some clarification on this. When coasting over rocky terrain, it makes sense to pull the clutch in to control speed and not have any jerkiness of the engine.. it also feels like it helps you conserve energy and a smoother ride.
You'll only wear your clutch out of you apply a lot of load to it and slip it. High revs and a clutch half out qill damage it. Doing this, you'd have to a LOT and over time it'll teach you be gentle with the clutch which will do less damage.
Hi LLEL. Would you like to make a video about riding long deep muddy ruts in the TET or other greenlaning? Sometimes a 4x4 or tractor have been driving through the trails and they leave these very long slippery ruts with steep banks. I find it difficult to ride.
Can you show us how you set your clutch up for off roading and I mean hydrolic clutch 2.. Because all clutches you have to pull in all the way, when you ride off-road, you need to be able to hold your 2 fingers for better controle..
Great question! On Hydraulic clutches I put the lever where it's comfortable. On cable clutches I adjust it so the freeplay is correct. You do not need to pull the clutch in all the way to use it. You can feel this by putting the bike in gear and trying to pull away. If you do it slowly, you will feel the bite point is a long way from the handlebars. You only ever need to pull the clutch in until it disengages and not all the way to the handlebar.
good point i dont like hydrolic clutches due to the lack of personal adjustment which i think is key in a lot of ways well as much as throttle adjustment and leaver position like the foot leaver position etc and in my opinion, a hydro clutch would probably stop me from buying a bike with it so how to get around that issue? some guru might know.
@@NINJUTSUguy I'm not really sure I understand. A hydraulic clutch has span adjustment and a consistent engagement position regardless. Cable is constantly changing and needs adjusting but you don't have any more control. Why would that stop you buying a bike?
@@BrakeMagazine ok it looks like I am the one that does not understand because of my lack of knowledge, I always thought that there was no adjustment with a hydraulic probably due to some guys that owned bikes that were hydraulic clutch and a major complaint was no adjustment at the leaver ( maybe early bikes were like that?) So I was thinking that could put me off buying a bike that used a hydro clutch. But it seems I need to be re-educated and am probably out of date with what's going on.
Same with front brakes. Decades of trials & mountain biking developed this as the default habit. Where one finger is found almost constantly perched upon those controls.
Yeah, Dave Moss explains this well. The middle finger is for power to pull in the clutch or brake levers, the index finger is for finer control. 2 fingers is all you need.
When you have a leaver that is as long as your handle, and (clutch only works when almost completely engaged then it sucks to say it's impossible to hold on with 2 fingers..
@@dinokadunic5002 then clutch needs adjustment and/or switch to short levers. Needing to pull lever against the grip to disengage is not a good, safe or controllable setup.
Always one or two. You need to be able to hold the bar and use the clutch. You also need to be able to cover the control all the time so your reaction is much quicker when you need it. Four fingers is a quick way to get into trouble off road 😊
cool but a little too basic in my opinion what you were showing seems to be related to riders that have about half a day on their first bike.,and that's all good if that's who you were aiming at, I think other riders that have had a bike for a few months could benefit from some real tips and how to recognize that they can be using the clutch badly and not know it , like when they take a pillion on the back and the pillion is getting pushed all around every time a gear change happens or the brakes are applied and during takeoffs so to prevent helmets clashing constantly the rider needs to recognize that this is because of poor clutch ,throtle and gear leaver manipulation so they can then address the how why and when .
OK....you lost me when you are telling your students to only use 2 fingers on the clutch. This may work on a bike with a very smooth and light clutch but is very difficult with a heavy one. Same thing if you are doing this repeatedly like when learning as a new rider. Using all 4 fingers gives you a more controlled, precise release. It;s the very first thing I taught all my students, starting in 1994. If we are trying to introduce a skill that we want to use from now on, teach the best and most effective one right from the start and be consistent . That way the rider will not have to forget and try something totally different. Not all clutches are the same but our technique should be.