hey guys. be extremely careful. It is a really cool thing. and it works. but so easy to get hurt. my arm got into a bit of loose snow and was held back a slight second. perfect angle for a dislocated shoulder. end of season. make sure the snow is flat and hard. still. great video!
I hurt my ankle doing this movement. If the snow is not flat, it's really easy to get the board starting to shake a lot and you get all the pressure on the ankles. That said, i was not putting a lot of weight on my arms, mostly foot and centrifugal force. Happened 2 weeks ago and still feel it in my ankles...
💯 I had a pretty bad shoulder dislocation when I hit a bit of hard snow and lost my toe side edge on a euro carve. Awesome fun trick, but now I Euro carve with my arm in. I think it looks pretty good, but more protected, (cause I really fucking sucked to lever my shoulder out of socket with your arm trapped overhead..)
Your videos are exactly what I need. I have been trying to extend my regular carve to eurocarve but could not. I love how you can break it down, simply, so people can understand. You my man, are a great teacher! Thanks for your content and keep it coming!
Cheers Scott, I will definitely be back next year with loads of tutorials but unfortunately I'm on lockdown right now, with even splitboarding strictly forbidden!
Thanks, Malcolm. not quite there yet but now I have the info who knows!! I also enjoyed watching your dog doing his own version of the euro slide behind you!!!! NICE!!!!!!
Came for the lesson, stayed for the dog:) Really, great tutorial, can't wait to try it out.. I will surely fail and hate snowboarding after but it is what it is:)
@@malcolmmoore Sorry to hear that. I snowboarding in Japan Hakuba area. Today I might use too much power to rubbing on the snow by back hand, that cause my board over rotation to up hill. I review this video and find there is no heavy track leaving behind when you do that. I will keep improve it in tomorrow. ^_^
Your front hand grabbing the heel side between your legs is a "Grossman" grab, I believe named for the late Jeff Grosso. It's sometimes misnamed as a "Chicken Salad" or "Roast Beef" grab but those are both backhand grabs.
I do Eurocarve both ways. Your video lessons will certainly be very helpful for intermediates, but I encourage beginners to use the services of a trainer, because while the technique is quite easy, feeling the moment of edge change is quite troublesome. I admire you that you want to share your skills with snowboarding people, it will definitely contribute to improving the style of snowboarding on the slopes. Regards :)
@Malcolm Moore, thank you SO much for this video (in fact, for all of your videos!). I've always wanted to try a Eurocarve, but they seemed far too intimidating. Your break-down helps me feel hopeful that I can get this down this season!!
What are your stance angles? Also would be interesting to see how positive angles on both bindings help to euro carve since a movement you described is opening up the shoulders.
I have +18 -12 as my angles. A more positive set up can help with these kind of carves but limits other areas of your riding. Watch some of the Korua 'yearning for turning' videos to see how they ride with positive angles.
Spectacular.... thanks. Mind if I ask your binding angles? I'm starting to find it easier to "throw-point a knee", with double positive....but 33 years of duck stance is hard to undo. Lol
The Grab is called Chicken Salad (it really is) and it's really not a good idea to slide with your open Hand over the snow like you showed it. It's very easy to get stuck in a pile of snow and hurt your fingers.... Making a fist is much safer. Besides that a very good breakdown of the technique and good explanation 👍🏼
The Eurocarve evolution is cool, it can be done both ways. Your video lessons will certainly be of great help to intermediates, however, I encourage beginners to use the services of a trainer, because while the technique is quite easy, it is quite difficult to know when to change the edge of the board. I admire you that you want to share your skills with snowboarders, it will definitely help to improve your riding style and make skiers jealous :). Regards :)
@@user-vn9js9yn1j Q1 yes I'm sure! EU 46 I Think... Q2. Burton Imperial, burton boots have a good 'reduced footprint' meaning they are smaller than another boot of the same size. Q3 for normal riding yes your board is on more of an edge on steeper slopes but for Eurocarving it is the same as your board is pretty much at maximum edge angle regardless of whether you do it on a green or a black slope!
@@malcolmmoore really appreciated for the reply man. Yeah, I found out that burton generally makes boots smaller than other brands, dont they? I fit perfectly with US13 in thirty two, while it hurts as hell with US 13 in Burtons. Just one last question, what binding angles do you use? Thanks in advance.
@@user-vn9js9yn1j I've been on burton boots for about 5 years now so not sure too much about how they compare size wise to other boots to be honest, I just know they work for me! Stance angle I have +18 -12. This allows me to still ride switch when I need to give but gives me a strong position when riding regular!
I've got a few boards in the go, amplid dada, nidecker thruster 162w, and nidecker escape 162XW are my main go to boards right now though. I either have now pilot bindings, or nidecker Supermatics on for when I'm teaching.
@@malcolmmoore Thank you for your response Malcolm! I just started to learn a little bit eurocarve myself and your video is definitely a great help! : ) Awesome content created by an awesome rider : )
If you decrease the radius of your carve as you turn to increase your momentum you’ll be able to lean in just as close to the snow without needing to put your arm on the snow toe side
Cool clip, thanks! Would you please talk about binding set up as well as the size of your board. I saw on other videos people recommended larger and stiffer boards?
I have a ride Warpig which is a volume shifted board so I only ride a 154 but it has a wider waist width. As long as you don't get a super soft board, even a medium one can carve well. Longer stiffer boards will carve well but so can a softer one, stiffer ones are less playful too. Mostly it will just come down to your technique, alot of people giving out advice aren't necessarily the best riders. Bindings, I have union contact pros, I have them at +18 -12 So it's slightly directional but I can still ride switch.
Malcolm Moore thank you so much. I watched videos of Ryan Knapton, he is a master of that technique, probably one of the best out there too. I appreciated your response, and I subscribed to your channel. I’m an advanced and experienced surfer so I really want to get into those carvings as it looks like bottom turning in a a powerful and perfect wave. Cheers mate!
Exactly, if you take more speed it can work on greens, and when you get good at them there's nothing stopping you doing them on reds and blacks, but the best place to learn is a nice wide mellow blue!
@@malcolmmoore you would have a blast on one of the ultra wide customs. The downside is once you get used to them you won't want to ride anything else.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Yeah I bet, it's crazy how limited you are to even find a board with a waist width of over 26.5. At least recently there's been a trend for wider boards with things like the Warpig, the K2 enjoyer series etc. But some boards that are considered wide are only 26cm across the waist!
You can rip your jackets arms up pretty quick eurocarving, Ryan Knapton adds vinyl to his sleeves that reduces the friction and speeds up the carve while protecting the jacket.| ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vr0_3g-j7NQ.html Surprised i did not see you in Jan while i was in ADH, great resort, shame its losing most of the chalet and hotel accommodation at the peak of the town though... Great carves, as mentioned be sure to look up hill before you do them though, you are blind to people coming down the hill while in the carve.
Hey Malcolm, been working on this and trying to get low but the board keeps skidding out on me when I try to lean into the slope. Are these achievable on mellow terrain or do you always need a bit of speed to hold the edge? I think I may need to work on my toe side carves a bit and figure out how to really dig in and increase the lean angle. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm still early in my snowbboarding journey, but from what I understand this could be either of two main things: 1) your boots are simply overhanging too much at deep leans, and you need a wider board, more positive binding angles, or to lean into your heels more (Malcom covers this in this video), or 2) you're trying to lean too deep too early in your turn, where your current velocity isn't quite in the direction of your board (and your acceleration isn't fully perpendicular to your board's sidecut apex, technically). If you wait to lean deep until you're fully travelling along the edge of the board, then there's no reason to judder until your edge loses its hold due to terrain or something. Not having enough speed along the *correct* vector would probably only make you lay yourself down onto the slope - not judder the board. Or maybe I'm totally off base . Who knows?
Sorry for the delay in response! The song is called scouting by eveningland. I have my forward lean set to their middle setting on the bindings. If you use your ankles effectively you don't need to rely completely on forward lean!
@@stefanofiorani1408 thanks, so alot of people rely on using forward lean on their bindings so that when you lean your calf muscle against them you get immediate lift in your toe edge. However if you flex your foot, imagine pulling the top of your foot in towards your shin, you can achieve the same effect. This makes it less of an off or on button, but something which you can control exactly how much edge lift you are getting. Some people even ride without high backs at all and just rely on effectively using their feet and ankles. Switchback, and NOW bindings have the option to remove the highback, and it is something pro rider Haldor Helgason often does.
There is more and more video's on Vitelli Turn/Eurocarve Turn. I have been watching all yours about carving, but you miss some details who can help for heel side turn. I'm ok with the work of the upper body (improve turn video if i'm right). On carving video you touch the right thing about pushing on legs and it's what's to be done in order to completely lay down on the snow. On the exit, I always have more a feeling of pulling my legs in order to help my board of releasing the pressure i put in my turn and be ready for the next turn. This link to early 2000's might show you another details ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-63GZN-aKSOU.html ok it's hardboot riders. Here is one of 2020 from swiss/german and austrian's ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1S2gxO0QhQY.html but less extrem.
I liked the hard boot video cheers for that. I've been thinking alot about carving this summer and when I'm allowed back on the snow want to make more videos on it. I think the key is to get retraction turns, or what they call push and pull technique, to get the feeling you describe. Anyway, hopefully I'll explain it better when I get to making the video! It's something I've sometimes confused with down unweighted turns in the past, but I think maybe with the help of a clipboard I'll be able to explain the key differences now!
Exactly. This pushing against your heels/keeping the board properly angled is the part that most tutorials miss. Malcom nailed it with showing all you need to get Euros done.
I love it apart from that the topsheet delaminates super easy. Its pretty annoying. Take a look at the k2 party platter or amplid dada. Pretty similar boards but both a little bit on the softer side.
@@malcolmmoore 41.5 here (8.5 for usa), for me ~26cm waist has been quite troublesome to get that low, I'm booting out quite early on. This season I took Knapton twin (Thnx Ryan Knapton and Donek snowboards) with 30.5cm waist, if that does not help then I'm doing something really wrong.