Thanks man, always a pleasure. I will do my best to keep making content. I got another video ready to upload in which i build an entire new track for the big sawmill, and clearing land for slab storage/work space, among other things as well. Gonna let this video simmer for a week or two, then I’ll be back again. Appreciate you staying around Big Al 👍
Great to see a new video. I do my fair share of milling and get the fever with every slab. Guess cuz I can see the gold in the grain of every slab. Keep up the great work your doing.
Hi, I’m a fairly new subscriber and just wanted to say how much I appreciate you putting this content out. I love that it’s to the point, honest and you don’t leave out all the pain-in-butt stuff. I just purchased a MS661 and a Granberg 36” mill and then realized the 36” bar leaves some of my mill unused, so I bought a 42” bar…….and down the rabbit hole I go 😂. I’ve milled a few logs now and your videos have been very helpful. Definitely hard work, I’m 53 and wish I was in my mid 30’s again but I think this work would be hard at any age. It’s so much fun though, it’s worth the pain. I’m in Canada so it won’t be long before I’ll be milling in the snow too 🇨🇦🪓👍 Thanks again, keep the great work.
Got on the RU-vid and was excited to see you had posted another video! I enjoy watching them as I go through my own slab cutting journey. Keep the videos coming!
Man i love those videos so inspiring i am a cabinetmaker myself started milling myself last winter and back then i watched your vids and learned some things thank you
@@backstromwoodwork566 i have a question did you ever made skiptoth chain by grinding of half the cutters on the chain flat do you think that would work i have some old chains kicking around missing a cutter here and there just a thought
Great question, and what you describe is exactly what i have been doing for years. I mainly use two different types of chain, on my big sawmill i almost exclusively use .404 chain, and that size chain i am able to purchase ready made skip chain (rx27 by oregon) but whenever the logs are smaller than around 40” in diameter, i will use the 3/8 lopro. The lopro bars and chains are thinner compared to 404 chain, i like that because the lopro is both faster and more efficient than the 404 thanks to making a smaller kerf, but the downside has been that i have had to buy regular 3/8 full comp ripping chain, and then manually grind off a bunch of cutters to somewhat replicate the skip pattern on the rx27. When grinding i remove the entire tooth all the way down to the top of the drive links. Earlier this year though i noticed that pather mills came out with their own version of a lopro ripping chain that has a fullskip pattern, havent tried it yet but looks promising.
Excellent videos! Nice to see a new one. I hope your back (and legs and arms and hips and shoulders and feet!) stay strong and healthy for many great videos in the years to come. I’ll drink to your health and to the health of your chainsaw blades this Thanksgiving!
Thank you so much for your videos. The quality and energy are awesome. Really been helping my partner and I with our milling giving us the motivation and inspiration we need.
@@backstromwoodwork566 by the way I have taken your idea for set up when it comes to the first cut on the end brackets so far it has been a great addition.
My first video of yours for me to watch, I am 9 minutes into this video, and I just subscribed. So ... without researching you, and your videos to find an answer, would you please tell me your chainsaw brand, make, model, and engine size. Also, do you modify your chains to "skip", and if so, please show us how that is done. I have basically burned up two chainsaws, ( yes, I use ripping chains) the retailer says "the piston has become scratched, pitted, and scarred ..." This has happened twice, and the manufacture says because of "user error" they will not repair or replace my $660 saws. Thanks! I look forward to more of your videos.
Thanks for the video. Does the middle of the ladder need to be supported? I would assume the weight of the mill and saw would cause the ladder to flex downwards and put a slight bow in the cut line?
Thanks scott! You are absolutely right, when cutting long logs, the guiderail needs to be supported. In my case, this ladder is stiff enough that it remains flat without supports for about 3 meters, which was roughly the length of this log. For longer lengths i always put supports. And i also go very easy on the first cut, i hardly put any downwards pressure on the mill, i just try and steer it forward.
Many thanks for the prompt reply. I’m starting out and have a few logs are 5m in length. I’ll be practising on short smaller ones first and thought my cheap aluminium ladder may bend but have not seen anyone setting up supports in the middle yet. Really appreciate the help and guidance. Cheers from Australia!!
Really nice videos, many thanks! Up to which bar length do you use LoPro chains? Also as skip-chains? My longest bar is a GB 105cm LoPro, but I need to get a longer one, I think 150cm. Should I buy a double ended with helper handle or a standard bar? .404 is set I think. Andy
Hi Andy! My longest lopro bar is 120cm, and i have thought about getting an even longer one, i think they are awesome. For my lopro setup i make my own skip chain. I buy regular stihl 3/8 050 ripping chain and then grind away the cutters to create the skip pattern. On my stationary sawmill i run a 72” double ended bar with two motors, but i have also used the same bar with my chainsaw. At first i used the helper handle with a roller, but the bearing for the roller gave up on my a few times, so after that i looked around and found that logosol made a thing called ”lagerhus” in swedish. I dont know the english name, but google ”logosol lagerhus” and you might find it. It is way more robust and has a built in oilpump. You should get a double ender if you intend to use two powerheads, i believe they are a little bit more expensive than a regular bar with a nose sprocket, but the 404 chain is a big chain and if you want to achieve a decent speed when milling, you will need a big saw (661 or even better an 881) Im actually working on a new video that focused only on these topics, chains, bars, gadgets etc, the logosol lagerhus will be featured in the video. It will be out in a few days
@@backstromwoodwork566 Interesting, 72" bar also with LoPro? Currently I am milling with a Dolmar 9010 (90cc, 6.7hp and LoPro-stuff, similar to Stihl 066), I am waiting for my 881 for a while now ;P, so two power units possible, but not planned, until THE log appears, and it will appear, some day, that's for sure ;) I'm looking forward to the tech-video, thanks in advance!
Love your videos. A couple questions from a Hardwood beginner; Is 3 inches your usual slab thickness? Do you find ripping chain is significantly better than cross cutting chain for Hardwood? (The reason I ask is that I have 100 ft roll of 25-degree chain which has done quite well at milling softwood beams, and I hate to spend more money for yet another type of chain.) Also; how many CC is your power head?
Hey Bill, thanks for commenting! I find 3 inches work well for table top material, and it can be nice to have some thicker stock as well for making other types of furniture. It takes a bit longer to dry though and can be difficult to get dry without a slight moisture gradient in the wood. I cut a lot of 2” thickness aswell, dries a lot quicker, and that thickness works great for general woodworking stuff, but might end up too thin for table top stuff depending on how flat it dried. A few years ago i did some testcutting for logosol using different grinds and angles, from 0 degrees and up to 30. There were no huge difference in speed, but the surface finish was best when the angle was 10 degrees. Best cuttingspeed was achieved when using skip chain, i tried a few different configurations and there seem to be a correlation between how wide the cut is and how many cutting teeth are engaged in the cut. The differences on all of these things were minor, and the best we can do to achieve a good cut quality and speed is to make sure the chain is very sharp. My saw is 90cc, biggest cut it has made was through 61” diameter white oak.
Vad för motorsåg är det du kör med och vad för svärd och kedja hade du kört med till 8m3 70cm i diameter körsbär och bok mvh nybörjare som vill köpa rätt verktyg första gången.
Hej rickard! Jag köpte min stihl 661 för 6-7 år sedan, och den kämpar på fortfarande, riktigt imponerad av den. Största den har sågat var en ek, 155cm i diameter. Det gick långsamt men det gick. För mindre stockar under 100cm i diameter kör jag nästan alltid 3/8 svärd och kedja med lågprofil (lopro), då får du ett lite tunnare snitt. Annars på det stora sågverket och för de stora stockarna så kör jag 404 svärd med oregon hyperskip kedja.
Extremt tacksam för svar. Blir 661 till våren då. Men finns det större svärd än 90cm till 661 utan byta till en 3003/3002 fäste som det är på Stihl 881. har googlat men fattar bara halv 5.
Spännande, önskar all lycka med det! Ja du kan köra riktigt långa svärd, kolla in chainsawbars.co.uk där finner du gb forestry svärd och canon svärd, dessa går att använda till de flesta sågar men man får skruva dit en liten adapter platta som ligger an mot svärdsbultarna. Jag vet inte exakt vad dem heter, men skicka ett mail till rob på chainsawbars, beskriv att du ska köra ett långt svärd och behöver rätt adapter till din 661. Annars får jag också bra service från Redskapsboden.se slå han en pling så hjälper han dig 👍 hälsa från mig :)
Thanks dude! Haha i wish i had, it would have saved me a lot of time. I just tried to be smart with the little money i had to spend, often buying old machines or building most of it myself. But i have been at this for about 6 or 7 years now, and eventually things get easier and you make a bit of money here and there doing woodwork. Its a slow process. Thanks for commenting on the video, best wishes to you
@@backstromwoodwork566 thank you dude I’m kinda struggling with work and mental health. Trying to do what makes me happy for a living. Woodworking but it’s almost making things worse.
Hey man i can relate, i was stuck at a job for 10 years that i absolutely hated, but the silver lining was that it allowed me to slowly build this woodworking thing without going into debt, and thanks to me being patient and letting things slowly progress, i could eventually quit my job and do this full time. I have my ups and downs too, but everybodys problems are different, and i dont pretend to understand your problems, but i do appreciate you sharing your story, and what little advice i may give would be to allow your progress to happen naturally, and try and keep the focus on yourself and learning the craft, that is what is important to achieve the confidence to do this. With time, the pieces fall in place.
Tack Per! Detsamma :) njaae, musiken finner jag i youtube studio, där finns det mycket musik man kan använda, men, i en av mina videos finns det en sekvens (då vi lägger kilsågat golv, typ mitten av videon) där spelas en liten trudilutt på gitarren, och den spelade jag in själv.
Happy to see you here in the comments as always my friend, been too long, sorry about that but i had to take some time off the video making. I sent you an email, would love to hear how you are progressing
