Due to popular video idea request we decided to do a Lego engine that is submerged in oil later realizing that the oil was too thick so we resorted to using the water.
too much windage in the crankcase. aslo need the bearing clearances to calculate correct oil weight. looks like factory crank cant handle that many revs. upgrade to billet
how about RC shock/differential oil... I've used them, n know for sure they've very low viscosity options available (#..... CST). DON'T KNOW HOW WELL THEY CAN transfer heat though, otherwise lubrication wise they'll work definitely better than motor oil, even synthetic ones. thanks guys
The oil you want is mineral oil. (Laxative from a drug store). It doesn't get gummy. Won't melt plastic. Its clear. Its cheap. So pure you literally drink it. The motor you want is a Smithsonian visible 4 cylinder. Or a visible v8 model. They have working valves. I made a visible v8 years ago and the directions called for mineral oil. Put it in a needle oiler and you will use it everywhere. Any how. Eventually I attached a dremel to the flywheel and had 3 seconds of screaming blur of rods, fan and my fingers when it hand grenaded into oblivion. Glorious shrapnel cleared the table and covered the kitchen & living room wall to wall with bits the size of penny's. I'm lucky to still have eyes.
@@scoobyblue555. Care to elaborate why he is an idiot? Sounds more to me like you're the idiot you can't even come up with an argument. What he said is true mineral oil would work best for this job even though it can be thick, it is a light oil which wouldn't damage the plastic while lubricating well.
ZeeC yep legos are made from plastic they need lot lower viscosity in school we work with diffrent oils ans chemicals and i just noticed same problem what was in my school project while watched this video
These (lego) motors don't have nearly the same thermal dynamics as even 100cc gas engines. I would recommend trying this again with a much lower viscosity oil, though I can't say for sure what variety you're currently using. Micro-engine oil for RC Nitro motors or even something household like a thin peanut-oil might work a bit better.
All of these 13 year old ropelayers thinking they know shit about cars “oh its a HEMI or it’s a BLOWN BIG BLOCK or it’s an LS like go lay down I hear all of your voices lisping in my head when I read your comments
@@samfosdick9874 lol. You might want to check what thats for. This motor isnt a 2 stroke. Therefore if there is oil in the combustion chamber your motor is fucked.
shite4brains I mean, in reality, you don’t need to really ever change your car oil, just the filter. Changing the oil on newer cars is mostly a waste of money
@@FinnishArmy yeah no. Completely wrong. Always change the oil and the filter in 5000 mile intervals for synthetic, 3000 for conventional. Particles under 25 microns slip past oil filters and can easily damage engines as they collect burnt oil and carbon to form sludge. Even transmission fluid which manufacturers say will last a cars lifetime must be replaced every 60k miles.
Try making an actual crankcase, enclosed one. Without pouring oil on the pistons. Just a box that encloses the conrods and crank, full of oil. Try thinning the oil out by mixing it with something or use vegetable oil or just much lower viscosity motor oil. Alternatively just put water in there or WD40. Or the weird pink chainsaw oil (two stroke fuel mix i think?)
There is a reason normal engines don't have a crankcase full of oil though, just an oil pan below to collect the oil that falls down through the case. Either you have it right full up to the bottoms of the pistons, which would hydrolock the engine as oil doesn't compress (the connecting rods cause each piston to move at different speeds so the volume is constantly changing) or the parts are rising out of the oil to smack back down into it (look up water hammer, same concept, different fluid). Not to mention the hydrodynamic losses you'd have with parts moving through the much thicker oil compared to moving through air. Basically my point is that in order to build a full crankcase and still have oil lubrication he'd have to add in several bulky subsystems, making it much closer in scale to runnimg miniature engines
Wait.. Maybe using this thick oil is better because the gaps in between the rod bearings and crank bearing's are big. The thicker oil would be better by creating more of a cushion Everytime that piston comes ramming down on the rod bearings.
You know, while you‘re on the subject of oil and engine lubrication, I think it‘s a good moment to bring up honing. Some people may have looked at the cylinder of a car and thought: Why is it all scratched and zigzaged? Don‘t worry, your engine is not broken, your mechanic is not trying to make an extra buck. It‘s all done on purpose, so that oil, as well as wear and tear can accumulate and lubricate, as well as carry the worn off metal away, because if you think about it; how would the oil actually get where it needs to be, were it not for some „trenches“?
If you're going to submerge in oil, maybe use brand new motor oil? it only costs $3 at the most. I see that unrefined crude is in plentiful supply in your shop but I wouldn't recommend using it for lubrication
A small drop of oil would have worked better. This is the equivalent of submerging an internal combustion engine in 50 gallons of oil. If it had a cylinder head it would have locked up instanly.
@@Clbfrnc never said how much just said vegetable oil would have been better . it's lighter thinner and cleaner . But yeah a cap full would have been plenty .
I didnt mean it to be negative towards your comment or anything. I meant it more so as a drop of even burnt/used oil would reduce the friction rather than running dry.
Wouldn’t that oil be too thicc I could be wrong but I would assume because of how small everything is you would want a lighter oil. More like gun oils.
It would be awesome if you made holes in the V banks so that oil would drip into the journals and lubricate, also having a bank between each cylinder, and furthermore pin the pistons so they can handle the rpms, then make the whole thing a wet sump engine!
5 лет назад
What is that? Used gear oil out of a semi's manual transmission? Looks like it has a cst of 1000 at 30c. A quart of good 5w-20 is like $3 at Walmar. You can do a 2:1 mix of any household solvent like diesel, acetone or rubbing alcohol in it to thin it out and get great results. The viscosity will go from around 200cst 30c to probably 10 cst. I'd use diesel for best results. Water has a viscosity of 1. A cst of 2-3 would give the best results.
They make lubricant specifically for tiny, intricate, fast moving parts -its labeled [sewing machine oil] in any craft store. It's engineered to be the optimal viscosity for the tight tolerances you have here. Maybe give that a try, might get better results...
DashcamDriversGermany Der 500er Motor aus dem Video hat genug Dampf. Der Motor mit seinen Kolben hat nur zu viel druck der von dem Öl ausgeht weil es zu schwer ist, und somit fliegt er letztendlich auseinander.
Olive oil or maybe oil spray is better, that oil it has very viscosity, and the oil without refrigeration is for nothing, real motors have a circuit of liquid cooling system between their pistons...
So can anyone explain to me what on earth is the point of submerging it in oil? Like is this a test that proves something? Needless to say iv no experience in this
This is a lego model of a car’s internal combustion engine. Motor oil lubricates the car’s engine so it can run smoother. He wanted to see if Motor oil does the same thing to a plastic LEGO model
Vulpes Dominus I don’t know if there is a point, maybe you should ask yourself why you chose to watch something like this. And maybe you’ll get your answer.
