For anyone asking about how to apply this on a Large Format camera, it is very possible and very effective but the technique for doing it is a bit different. At the risk of sounding like a salesman on commission...I cover those techniques extensively in my Large Format Photography online course (including how to apply everything covered in this video as well as how to apply it with tilts/swings, how to use it to determine whether your tilt/swing is actually helping, whether you need more or less tilt/swing, and more).
There’s no way hyperfocal distance is this easy. Been searching some tutorials on how it works and actually gave up on it, everyone explains it in a really complicated way, but you just made it so simple and so math free. Thanks!!
Can't think of a better, more succinct, accurate and uniformly interesting photography channel on You Tube. I mention this, as I think you posted a piece a while back expressing some degree of personal doubts about 'being on the right track' and so on, so again, you're not just in the top percentile, you're in a class of your own. Top drawer stuff.
This is a master class. The video does not have enough likes in my opinion. Thanks, Nick, for sharing this info to amateur guys like me. I really appreciate it.
Dear Nick, I am super grateful for this video. Tx a lot. Maybe I can give back some knowledge (Don already did): You are right about the Fujifilm lenses not having the markings. But: The Fuji Digital Cameras are giving you the Dof in the viewfinder with the help of the blue ranges left and right of the white focal point. Change to manual focus, then change the menu (AF page 2 „Depth of Field“) from „Pixel Basis“ to „Film-Format-Bais“ (assuming you are printing your photos) before using. Maybe you knew, maybe it helps others. Best, Peter
Well looky here!! Nick has not only given us a detailed explanation of depth of field, but also the mythical hyperfocal distance!! If I were his bossman, I'd give him the rest of the day off AND an apple!! Thanks for making me a little more dangerous Nick!!!
All I can say is WOW and THANK YOU! This is easily the best, clearest, most thorough explanation of this topic I've come across on RU-vid. Demonstrating on different (and very cool) cameras is a huge help as well. I don't know how it could have possibly taken me this long to come across your channel, but I'm glad I did. Can't wait to check out the rest of your content.
Nick Carver channeling Grover from Sesame Street with all of the near and far 😂😂 As always, another excellent video and example of simplifying the overly complicated !
Almost perfectly done! The longer the lens, less depth of field! I think we oughta mention Barnack (Leica) and Berek (lens guy Leica) did 1st depth of field. scale. Barnack wanted to get 5x7" (not cm.) Go bigger, stop down.. If doing images for FB. Inst. Etc it works great! Small images! With hyperfocal distance, need for mis-auto-focus, not reqd. Brilliant explanation.
A excellent demonstration and explanation of this topic. I think I've gotten too lazy over the years with auto focusing. This is a good reminder of the "basics" I should be using instead. Thanks.
Thanks for this comprehensive explanation. I would like to add that the engraved depth of field scales on lenses are a guide when using film. Depending on the pixel pitch of a digital camera, the actual DOF will differ. But as you pointed out, it all depends on what the goal of the photo is. In my analog photo era, I used the scale on the lenses because that was the practical way of getting everything in focus when shooting cars, interiours and landscapes. However, when I wanted to print a landscape larger than 20 x 30 cm, I would use the f/11 scale when using f/16 to make sure it would be in focus near to far. Blessed the digital camera, where you can immediately zoom on your photo to see if all that is good. With film you'd see your success or mistake a week later, but then I'd remember that and adjust future approaches. Best way to learn is to shoot, no matter what gear.
Compensating thermal expansion of the lens by going beyond infinity is typical for longer teles and specially when they have fluorite elements that are heat sensitive. TS lenses have to go beyond normal infinity to accommodate some special settings when the PoF angle has to be greater than 90°. With TS lenses the more they go far beyond infinity the better even when without tilting the lens field infinity is on the lens infinity marking.
Perfect description. No need to bring up "circles of confusion." My margin of safety for DoF is usually one stop (where infinity has to be in focus, a landscape for example). If the meter says f/11 I put (rotate) the infinity symbol onto the f/8 engraved line. Thanks as always.
Hot damn that was useful! I knew how the depth of field scale worked but not to that degree or the hyperfocal distance. Thanks for the solid knowledge!
By far the best video online I can find explaining these topics. I got it down pat through experimenting and my own research but still like to watch videos on these topics in case they have anything I’ve missed, and they never do, but this video is an exception, great content!
Just remember that when you are using your digital fuji, it can be set to show focusing scale while in manual focus mode. It then highlights the in-focus part of it on the scale considering current aperture value. It can also be set to how rigorous it will be.
Nicely done, Nick! One thing though to mention: You say "this is how it's done on TLRs". Oh well, not always! To the best of my knowledge, none of the other TLRs, like all those Rolleiflexes and such, have that depth of field scale on the viewing lens. And as a matter of fact, the 3.5/105 mm lens is the only one in the Mamiya C-series range that has it. Not only do all the other lenses lack the diaphragm that allows to visually check DoF, but they also lack the DoF scale one the lens barrel. So all that remains is either guessing and hope for the best, or use a printed table (some older cameras have such a table printed on the back), or use a phone app. Since the Mamiya C-series has interchangeable lenses, the DoF table on the camera back won't work, so Mamiya supplies such tables for all available lenses in the cameras user manual. Now, would you pull out the manual to look up the right distance to focus on? I doubt it! I never did. I take my best guess and shoot. I call that "creativity" 😂
This was super informative. Have been doing photography for 7 years and thought I knew everything I should know. But I never thought about wasting depth of field into infinity. I think I have way too often just set my focus to infinity once my subject was a certain distance away from where I was standing. I thought when I shoot at f16 it doesn't matter anyway. I will definitly apply this next time I'm out shooting. Thank you, I learned a lot in these 19 minutes.
yet again baffled how talented you are in making these instructional videos, dude! always from a practical view point but always enough theory behind it that it is understandable where you are coming from... to anyone who might be reading this comment: i cannot recommend nick's courses enough!! same thoughtful curriculum, same witty guy. 10/10.
This was a timely refresher on DoF and hyperfocal distance. I've got a 6X17 camera on order and since I'm not a handsome, young professional photographer, it is not a Shen Hao.
such a "basic" advice, but, yet, you gave it away for free and we should all be grateful for it, because you are the guy to go to when it comes to analogue photography stuff. so - thank you x100 :)
This was fantastic and couldn't have come out a better time. I was diving into trying to understand how this works. Got some info here and there. But after a long sat down and your video came up on the exact subject. All I got to say is thank you!!!!
Thanks Nick. I had to learn to use a depth of field scale when I first learnt photography on my Dad's folding 35mm kodak retina.I also used it a lot when I was using my Pentax spotmatic on my early film weddings. Great video.Geoff
The little “L” shaped symbol to refer to the infinity symbol is not telling you the range of where infinity is, it’s just a little line so that they put the infinity symbol there without it overlapping with you farthest distance marker. But you correct about the temperature variations, it’s possible on some fluorite elements at higher temperature, the lens needs to be slightly closer to the focal plane to reach infinity, then usually the manufacturer will allow the focus ring to go past infinity at normal temperatures, a good example would be the Zeiss (Hasselblad) Superachromat 250……..must be the rum I had tonight, did I just wrote a comment correcting Nick Carver? 😅😅😅
Thanks for the helpful info Nick, making shooting a little easier now & more fun by understanding a more technical aspect. This should help us get way more images that we're stoked with. 👍🏻
Exceptionally well presented, Nick, as others note. I appreciate your endnote on enlargement, which will help to curb some confusion and disappointment. Following some discussion on the LF Info forum a while back, I ran my own, careful tests on some of my M4 and 645 Pro lenses, enlarging to my expected max print size for each -- full-frame plus modest cropping room on 8x10 and 11x14 paper, for the two formats respectively, and viewing the prints at typical viewing distances. The results were revealing, with some surprising variations within a tendency to short-change DOF on the near, i.e., sharper focus on the far point. The variations I attribute to the approximating constraints of the scale over the full focusing range of the lens. An extra stop down was typically in order. As A. Adams liked to note, fortune favors the prepared mind.
Nick since you always keep it real with us, I’ll keep it real with you. Today was a rough day for me after a long day of work. However, I just got to a point where I’m sitting with a slice of hot apple pie and ice cream, looking for a good youtube video. I primarily shoot rangefinder cameras so this topic is something i’m quite familiar with; surely I’ll learn something from you after watching this though. Appreciate your videos 👍🏼
The Contax G/G2 are another example of “rangefinder” cameras, using a mechanism to adjust the view when attaching the lens. A very cool camera that’s almost perfect, suffering from a lackluster manual focus. Also, the Leica 28mm elmarit is a dream for depth of field scales on a lens.
Great video, very well explained! Good and important last comment and solution with regards to level of sharpness on the near and far subject within the determined depth of field.
I already knew about DoF scales and thought I knew how to use them but I did learn some stuff. Thanks! Though I use autofocus almost all the time, so I'm not sure when it will come in handy. Still, I love learning new stuff, so thanks!
A great video for beginners, Nick, thank you! However, it doesn't seem complete without a disclaimer about definitions. "In focus" and "Out of focus" is subjective. If the lens is not precisely on mark -- it is technically out of focus, regardless of the aperture. The marks are there just as a guideline (to be fair -- a very educated guideline). Because of that the real way to go about this scale is to test it out for yourself and making mental notes of how accurate you consider this scale for a body/lens/film combination for your particular work. Maybe you will find that to achieve your in-focus you have to divide the scale by two (or you can tolerate multiplying it by two). But that is a bit more advanced, a beginner with a 35mm really should not go into such detail. UPD: Disregard that, you kinda get to it in the end, I hurried too much to write that comment :)
Love these videos. Been following your work for several years now. Always enjoy the topics you pick out. So, I have a question about your TS lens. Do you shoot architectural or real estate interiors? If so, why a 24mm over the 17mm? I've been shooting with an 18-35mm lens for interiors, but I've reached a point where going with a tilt-shift is making a lot more sense with the level of projects I'm getting.
Top notch explanation, thanks. I was looking for how to use a DOF scale on my new lens (never used one before) and the extra information was an interesting bonus.
Hey Nick! Great video as always. I was curious... what model is your Minolta? Looks like an XG-M possibly? If so I just picked one up for next to nothing and am enjoying the hell out of it thus far.
I feel like a caveman clanking stones together (none of them flint) when I think about how I focused to infinity at f/22. Thanks for explaining it so well.
Manual focus ; though slower and in Street or Reportage is difficult ....still is BETTER , at least in my humble experience. I adjust the SONY Mirrorless using the Older Vintage lenses , and their hyperlocal distances. If you take the time to learn you will get amazing results.
Although I've been focusing that way for years, this is a great video Nick. Mainly doing landscapes, back in the day when I was shooting film and manual focus lenses, this was the only way I focused. I would frame with the viewfinder and focus with the DoF scale. One thing I would do though is if I set my aperture at f11, I would set the infinity mark closer to f8 just to give myself a little lagniappe. When I switched to Canon digital, I was lost for a while till I switched to Fujifilm X series and was back in the saddle with their DoF scale on the back screen.
3:05 Most people are calling the Fujifilm GA645Zi a rangefinder camera, because IT IS technically a rangefinder camera. It has a rangefinder mechanism - with auto focus. A rangefinder does not need to be manual with a split image viewfinder, it can be automatic. The mechanism is the same - the overlay of two images to define the range. You can tell by looking at the front of the camera and you'll notice the extra front facing window(s) the body needs to have to produce the overlay image for the rangefinder. If the camera has a front facing rangefinder window, it is a rangefinder camera. Another example for an auto-focus rangefinder camera is the Contax G1/G2 - the G1/G2 in particular are hybrid in the sense they BOTH have a rangefinder AND an active focus system based on infrared beam reflection. The G2 repair manual (you can readily google it) explains how the G2 auto-focus mechanism works, I assume the Fuji's mechanism is very similar. Edit: I just found the Fujifilm GA645Zi service manual, it confirms my assumption. The auto-focus system in the GA645Zi works the same way as in the G2, it's a hybrid active-passive system with the passive system being a rangefinder that works by overlaying two images. Technically a rangefinder - confirmed. An example for a viewfinder camera that looks like a rangefinder but is not a rangefinder: the Konica Hexar AF. It does not have a front facing rangefinder window. Its auto-focus is achieved only by infrared, the camera sends out an infrared beam and measures the reflected beam to calculate the subject distance.
