Thank you so much for this video. I, like many was struggling to get my bed level. Your explanation of this technique helped me get my bed variance from 0.5100 to 0.1625 which resulted in my best first layer ever. You earned my thanks and subscription.
Thank you so much! Bed leveling can be the bane of a 3d printers existence, but smart tools like this can help give us some power back! Glad this helped and thanks for the subscribe and the comment !
This is an awesome how to Leo. This type of tool could seem so complicated, but after a watch, you’ve made it so clear that it seems silly not to use it. Well done.
Thanks Fedor! Yea this changed the game for me, I could just run this occasionally to make sure the bed was locked down instead of going through the normal leveling process. Thanks for dropping a comment, you the man !
I am a noob to 3d printing, and I havent modified my printer. So this was my first time doing an edit to printer config, it was very easy to do and understand. Thankyou.
Awesome! This is a really great first addition too which will hopefully help you save time and print more. Thanks for watching, I am glad to help, and I appreciate the comment.
I´m not good at express myself, but man this channel has everything you need and want! Especially for a klipper newbie like me. I have been using both Maker´s muse and Teaching tech a lot in the past, but you Leo will defentliy be my "go to" in the future when I nned help with my 3d hobby. I really like the way you describes everything in detail, and not just a "paste and copy what I do on the screen" channel. Thank you so mush for the help Leo.
Oh wow thank you so much!! It takes me a while to make these videos, which is unfortunate, but it's because I spend a lot of time making sure the flow of the information is right (as well as the info itself lol). It's great hearing that these sort of videos are paying off for people because it makes all the time worth it. Thank you!!!!
Youre a Hero! I dont know why i stumble over this for so many years and why no "Big RU-vidr" covered it so far, this is amazing! Thanks to you i reliably get 0.1 on every screw now thank you so much! Ordered a acceleration sensor aswell to follow your guide and more videos from you!
Yea this can be a real game changer for people. It saves time and can be very accurate. I am happy you found me and I promise I will continue to be making content just like this that is aimed to help. Good luck and happy printing!
Your videos are fantastic. I find that after watching your videos on a specific topic, I don't need to consult any other sources online. Your Klipper videos are reminiscent of Joshua Bardwell's FPV videos. Keep up the excellent work!
Hi, first of all, great video, everything very clearly described and explained. I applied this method to my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and added 2 adjustment points. The only deviation I made was not using a probe, I centered the nozzle above the 6 adjustment points. I ran the "Screws_tilt_adjust" tool 3 times in a row with the final result - at 5 points it was 0.1 and at 1 point 0.0, so I wisely left it at that. Afterwards I did a "Bed Level Calibration" test and it was perfect. From now on this is my way to level. Many thanks for posting this method on RU-vid.
Thank you so much for taking time to write such a detailed comment and letting me know this worked. Much appreciated, I'm glad you found me and I was able to help!
😆 I can do it with my eyes closed now but when I first got into the hobby 3 years ago bed levelling was the bane of my existence. If it wasn't for your video on bed levelling and z-offset I probably would have quit.
Zoomy keep your eyes on the road!! Lol I'm happy you stayed because this community is all the better for it, including all the tots you helped with a long with Fedor for the holidays. Thanks
Oh man, I'm late to the party but this has solved all my issues. For anyone with a larger print bed with a set point in the middle (such as the Elegoo neptune 4 plus), set screw 1 as the very center of your bed - and add the additional other screws using the same format. (I have 6 screws, so 1 is set to the center of the bed and 2 through 7 are the other 6 screws) I wish i had found this a week ago!
Glad you found it! Klipper is full of so many amazing tools sometimes the hardest part is finding them. Great info about using multiple screws as well, there was some questions about that when this video first came out and this comment will help a lot of people!
Yeah, i used to have bed leveling now it honestly feels good to know my stuffs on point. its alot better now that i got klipper.. doesnt feel like im going in blind anymore
Yea I know that feeling. You can just hit print and walk away without worrying. Don't forget to periodically level it though, preventative maintenance 😂
With much appreciation but the workflow has changed the last 2 years. I think it’s time to follow the new technologies and advancements. But thanks for the effort to explain very thoroughly.
That's a great idea! I don't know how many people have dual stepper drivers to be able to use z_tilt, so it will probably be a little further down the catalogue. I want to get a few out there about max accels/ speeds and using KAMP, but I'll add it to the list!
Thank you for this. This makes learning 3d printing as hobby much more enjoyable. Just did this on my Neptune 4 Pro, Got it down to 00:00 on everything.
Happy to help! This calibration is really such a time saver and I think it helps increase accuracy that comes from rushing through it when you do it yourself. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You are doing an awesome job on your videos. I bought a Klipper Pad 7 watched a few videos and was lost pretty early. I decided to watch your video and boom up and running. Thank you so much.
I'm happy to help you get back on track! I actually have a BTT Pad 7 sitting in the box. I wanted to do a video on it a few months ago but never found the time. Maybe it's time to break it out!
Omg, thank you! Was just thinking the other day, why can't I just use my bed probe to tell me exactly how much to turn the screws instead of doing it manually? 😂 Thank you, and the algorithm for suggesting this. I have a Sonic Pad and had no idea this feature was in Klipper! (Also, pst, one minute on a clock is 6 degrees, not 1... 15 minutes is 90 deg.)
This is such a convenient feature, and I wish you luck when adding it. I know some users that have had issues with the Sonic Pad in general. Hopefully the addition of this macro is 1-2-3 for you. If not let me know and I'll see how I can help!
Thanks so much for sharing this method. So much easier. I've noticed the wheels on my Neptune 4 Pro have 10 bumps on them, so allowing for each being 6 minutes apart makes it extremely easy to turn them just the right amount.
Oh wow that's great! The knobs on the Creality style machines have so many grip areas that it is hard to track. It would be cool to see a printable option that mirrors the knob style that Elegoo employs, or make it even more specific to this calibration!
Thanks! The BL touch video is long, but it's where I would recommend to start. It goes over how to make sure your bl touch is setup correctly which is the baseline for a lot of these calibrations.
Thank you so much, that's really awesome to the hear! That's the goal, help more people transition to Klipper and get some more enjoyment out of their 3d printers! Thanks for taking the time to comment it made my day.
Yea if you can keep a nice stable surface, and if you're using some device to create a mesh and apply it while printing, the times you would need to level your bed can be few and far between. This method being so easy can have you running bed leveling way more often if you wanted, just for peace of mind.
Awesome walkthroug for beginners and even advanced users :) one tip is to messure the thread (12:17) with the calipers paralell to the bed its much more easy =)
Thank you so much! A lot of the reason for me measuring it that way was for filming purposes lol trying to find the right angle for that can be tough. Great advice though and I thank you for taking the time to help me out! Thanks!
Funny someone else said the same thing yesterday! Basically just turn this thing into a complete cyborg and let it slice and start its own prints too - the next level! servos though ....that would be a cool project
Thanks sm I appreciate it! I know there have been a lot of users with Elegoo machines that have helped contribute to this video by leaving helpful comments like this. So thank you and everyone else who helps make this video and comment section informatibe.
Thank you for trusting in me.. and Klipper! The tools are all there for us we just need to learn how to use them. I appreciate you letting me know I helped !
Same! This has turned bed leveling into a 3 minute pain free affair, where before I'd be hunched over my printer for minutes at a time. This is a real no brainer. Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment !
Yes that's a great idea! One of those "why didn't I think of this myself" sort of ideas lol awesome contribution, I'll keep this in mind going forward when talking with other people. Thanks !
I've been wanting to make this video for a while so thanks for watching! I also appreciate you buying me some ☕!!! Anytime someone does that I'm truly touched, I appreciate the kindness. Stay tuned though, more Klipper videos to come :)
Lol I know! I always try and remind everyone you can print just fine on a bed with some variance. Usually I shoot for a variance (when creating a bed mesh) of 0.2. I have printed on some beds with an even larger variance with success, so don't spend too much time getting this just right lol
I just got mine ender 3 v2 bl touch setup with mesh leveling and succeed from the first try! I definetely gonna improve printer with that technique and dual z.
Awesome to hear! Those printers are capable of amazing things and it only takes a few tweaks from us to get there. Glad this was able to help you on the way!
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by improve the y axis? Are you looking for stability or smoother operation? With my ender 3 I never did any upgrades to the bottom rail. I know some people have tried linear rails but I never went that route.
A lot of people are of the mind to use whatever the best EI values are for the y axis. The idea behind that is because the Y will change over the course of a print because a model is slowly being deposited on it. Ultimately tuning your max acceleration outside of input shaping is the best way. I'll have a video on that process very shortly !
Weldone Leo, another great video! so much better explanation than some other youtubers. looking forward to the nest installments and my bugging you in discord lol.
That's high praise my man! Thank you so much. The Discord is crazy now, so many awesome 3d printers sharing all of their projects. I can't wait to be bugged lol thanks
If you don't want to switch to Klipper, this feature is available in Marlin as ASSISTED_TRAMMING. You possibly would need to compile a new version though.
but why wouldn't you want to switch to Klipper?? lol I'm kidding but I thought Marlin also had a similar routine I just haven't seen it implemented. I appreciate you mentioning this, and thanks for watching.
This is a very nice tutorial. Unfortunately you may be confused by the explanation starting @15:32. The example text is "01:20 means 1 full turn and 20 minutes,..." The narration says the clock face has a full rotation of 60 degrees with 1 minute per degree. But this is wrong, obviously. The clock face has a full rotation of 360 degrees, corresponding movement of the minute hand of a clock by 60 minutes. So, for the minute hand of a clock, the rotation is 6 degrees per minute. In these instructions we're told that after 1 full turn ( = 1 hr), we need to add another 20 minutes. So 20 minutes times 6 degrees/minute means to turn by 120 degrees. Or think of it as a fraction of a whole turn where 20 min / 60 min represents 1/3 of a rotation. One third of 360 degrees is 120 degrees. So the "20 minutes" does NOT mean turn the knob 20 degrees (as stated), it means turn the knob 120 degrees ( = 1/3 of a full rotation). The narrator knows how far the knob should be turned, but the explanation is confusing and technically not correct.
Thanks for watching and leaving the informed comment. A lot of people have pointed this out, and this isn't how I chose to interpret the way this operation works, this is just how Klipper implements it. They have deemed this is the best way to characterize the adjustments (1 full rotation is 60 minutes, and thus 30 minutes would be 1/2 a rotation). Obviously a full circle is 360 degrees, but in attempt to (I guess) simplify this, Klipper has opted to consider a full turn 60 degrees, and then slice up each individual degree as a minute. Perhaps it would be better stayed as "Klipper's clock face" or so ething similar but this is the setup they chose. In my opinion I do think this is a more intuitive way to express the information even if they are not 'technically' correct.
@@PrintsLeo3D Sorry to belabor this point, but it is definitely NOT more intuitive to express 20 minutes on a clock face (1/3 of a full circle) as equal to 20 degrees (after you introduce a new definition that equates 1 min to 1 new degree which in reality represents 6 actual degrees. Most people know that a full turn is 360 degrees. When you reverse course, that doing a 180. A perfect right angle is 90 degrees. So if you talk about degrees, that is the measurement people are already familiar with. I realize you're stuck with certain decisions made by the programmers, but the translation from minutes on a clock face to degrees appears to be something you chose to introduce (see @15:52). Right there you state that 20 minutes = 20 degrees. My question remains: Why?? The Klipper output says nothing about degrees. The ONLY reason to introduce degrees is to take advantage of common knowledge that a full circle represents 360 degrees. It simply confuses the whole thing to REDEFINE one full rotation of the minute hand on a clock represents 60 minutes (ok, people get that) but then calling that 60 degrees (!!! What?? That's just not right..) just confuses things. Now some will easily figure out this redefinition, but anyone who does, also doesn't need to conversion if the first place. In fact no one needs that redefinition, it's actually harder and more confusing than just sticking with minutes on a clock face.
You mentioned to just find an empty space in the config file. Does it matter if this is in the beginning or end or after a particular section? I have several empty at the beginning and didn’t k ow if it would be okay to place it first. Thanks
Great video again thanks for the content my only crit is that I would make the screw 1 the one thats is attached to the bed heater cable and sensor probe if your bed is setup like that makes it so your adjustment knobs doesn’t bottom out easily.
Steven that's a great idea, where we you when I was making this video lol Seriously that is a very great idea and I'll keep it in mind when talking about this in the future.
Glade you like that I’ve watched the video on how to setup a bed mesh and bltouch in klipper a million times I keep all these videos in my list of necessary how tos because they’re so clear. Thanks a bunch I would be pulling my hair out if it weren’t for the clear videos
The physical process I describe early in the video is usually best described as bed tramming. renaming the screws_tilt_adjust macro is easier said than done lol I was thinking of terms that make the process sound easier and quicker to understand, but screws tilt adjust does describe all the different aspects we are affecting. Your suggestions are great though, and I love the idea of using the term mesh more often, as generally we will be using a mesh to better map the movement of our nozzle across the bed surface.
Bed meshing in my opinion is different. The probe check the small variance of the bed in different spots and automatically apply a strategy to follow the mesh during printing. This procedure tells will level the bed as flattest as possible using the mechanical screws under the bed. I fact it only measure the corners.
Now that would be cool! I mean yea the naming of this might make it seem that way, but it's way less tame than that. Still as effective but there's more labor than electronics to this one.
Easily my favourite feature on my recently upgraded ender 3! What i dont quite understand is the z offset should be completely separate from the bed level, the offset is the offset of the probe to the nozzle, thst has not changed at all
Yea this tool is like a complete night and day shift when having to bed level, it almost becomes an after thought now because it's so easy. The z offset question is spot on, and it's a really confusing topic. You define z offset in the same way I do, but I think we are slightly incorrect in that thinking. I usually say the same: 'z offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the probe tip' but the more accurate definition is the distance between the nozzle tip and the location where the probe tip triggers' and for that reason whenever we adjust the tilt of the bed we need to readjust the z offset (I guess Kevin was smart to use the term 'tilt' for this macro lol). It may be a slight adjust if any but it's what I would consider 'best practices' when performing this calibration.
Hey, I love your tutorials. You are great in simplifying the information. Can u do a guide on z-tilt too? I have and Ender 3 with KevinAKaSam Dual Z belted mod, he was encouraging it's use in one of our brief chat but I can't find a good guide here on YT. I only learned to 3D print the past 6 weeks and the learning curve is quite steep. Thanks!
Z tilt was a topic that I was looking forward to covering. My T500 makes great use of z_tilt with its huge bed so I was thinking of using that as a focus.
Great video, and very informative! My only issue with screw tilt that ive noticed is that with multiple adjustments you will notice the z height of screw one changes. Im happy you included the steps of adjusting the z offset. Nice work
You're absolutely right, and I lightly touched on it, but I probably should have added a little more. As we make the adjustments you'll notice that while screw 1 does start to move, all the screw positions will start getting within range of each other. Now of course this does move the screw 1 corner up, I think the other corners matching that will eventually leave us in a more desirable location. I appreciate your comment, I am going to add a section to the article on my website that mentions this. Thanks!
@PrintsLeo3D thanks for the response. Now, with that being said. This coupled with say an auto z calibration (is, voron sexbolt), then it's a great tool to use and becomes even easier. I'm hoping to not need it at all soon. I have a mercury one.1 that I'm considering doing quad gantry on with the z endstop probe.
1 make sure that you bed is flat most of them ar not. 2 allways heat up the bed temp will deform all (physical substance) like the bed !!!!!. 3 softwear bl touch.cr touch e.t.c will probe 5,10,20 points and will miss the hole !!!! so what we 3dprinters end to 4 and last find something the you know its straght the size of the bed about 200mm long place it on the bed and take a light from the back if you see light at the point you touching bed you have a problem if not your lucky happy printing :)
Emmanuel thanks for watching and sharing your info! I'm not sure what you mean in your 3rd point about the probe software. Also about heating the bed, I don't heat up while leveling, but I know some people like to. I understand the bed will change dimensions when heated but I stick to a cold bed. That being said I think what's most important is to be consistent with your approach. If you use a cold bed do that for all bed calibrations and the same goes for a hot bed 👍 Thanks for watching and sharing your methods.
its just the way i find better to get the bed at 60 i recently went to klipper on a ender3 pro and after many times i tested the z offset i found that a defrence with acold bed and a hot bet. also i found that the probeing points will send data to the mesh only of the point it probes thats how i see it i do use a CNC and a laser all DIY.
I had a section in the video that I think touched on what you're talking about. On most probe movements Klipper wants the probe's coordinates, but with this -a movement using a probe- it doesn't, it wants the nozzle's location. I decided to delete that part of the video because I was afraid the explanation would confuse people more than just explaining the straightforward application of the macro.
So very welcome ! Klipper has so many features I have plenty of material to draw from. Way more Klipper videos are lined up already. I appreciate you commenting, thanks!
I was planning on making one, but with all these new CoreXY machines some of the interest, and my drive, has sort of waned. I love the Klicky I have installed here and I would really like to make a video on it if I find the time. I would love to create a video that starts with a base bones Ender-style 3d printer and by adding a few mods turn it into something that can compete with even the newest 3d printers!
Just a heads up, you have the older cowling on your X-Max 3. Contact Qidi support and they will send you new ones that have improved cooling, and an upgraded USB cable for can bus
That's so unfortunate. It's really starting to get upsetting the number of manufacturers that are taking advantage of what Klipper can offer, but then lock down it's full potential so they can call it their own "custom" versions. Hope you find a way to take advantage of this someday. Thanks for watching
Yea a lot of people like to heat the bed during this and other probing movements and I don't fault them. My rule is always just to be consistent, so if you heat the bed for these probes heat it for all. Thanks for watching and commenting!
At 10:16 the document say its must be the nozzle over the screws But you said in the beginning the position must be the one of the Probe, I'm confused 🤔
That sentence can be a little confusing but what the document says is " determine the nozzle coordinates such that the Z probe is above the screws..." So it's telling us to position are probe over each adjustment knob and record the coordinates. Klipper does have another routine called simply 'bed screws'. That asks you to get the coordinates of the nozzle over the screws, and then for operation it moves the nozzle above each screw for manual leveling. I go over that method in detail in my Manual Mesh video. I hope this explanation cleared that up but if not let me know.
Do machines like Elegoo Neptune 4 that have "auto bed leveling" work with this method? I believe they have some sort of sensor to test the bed level built in - not an addon.
The Neptunes are a weird breed, and I am not 100% sure how Elegoo decided to implement everything. Another user posted there config setups for various Neptune printers. So check out some of the other comments and see if it can help you.
This is the bane of my 3D printing experience. My Creality V3ke to this date will not correctly compensate for the created mesh. I've tried everything. Creality even send a complete bed replacement and still no luck. The auto calibrate will just not work. I wish I had the "screws" option. I have to trim the bed using razor blades which work surprisingly well and stick to the magnetic base.
The KE I believe is the printer that has Klipper installed, although I'm not sure how neutered it is thanks to Creality. If it does have Klipper you should be able to get a view of the bed mesh visualizer and see where your bed is at its worst and try to compensate.
I have a Creality CR20-Pro using Marlin. I'm still trying to figure out how to upgrade to Klipper, but I also have no idea what Leonardo is, or what it does.
I don't remember where/how I mention it in this video, but Leonardo is just the gave this particular printer. And then I made a color theme of prints to match it to the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles character lol
I mean the reference screw is better be on the back of the printer so you need to adjust only on there, more difficult to reach than the ones on the front :)
What is the point of this if I have a BLTouch? Isn't my bltouch doing all the heavy lifting? I can only think of stepper longevity from not having to move the Z axis up and down so much. If I don't care about that, should I just avoid this?
This is a great question and a very common misconception. Both of these techniques work hand in hand in order to give you a great first layer. Bed screws adjust helps to align the nozzle and the bed along the same plane. This is commonly referred to as leveling. The bltouch does not level. It really is just a measuring device. The bltouch takes height measurements of the bed and creates a mesh to use while printing. It doesn't really ever "level" the bed. Also the bltouch is only accurate within a small window of deviation (0.2-0.4mm), so the more "level" your bed is the more accurate the bl touch will be. In short the bl touch never 'levels' your bed, it takes measurements and tries to make your first layer flat. Bed screws adjust does level your bed, and in turn allows the bl touch to work optimally.
Wow, love to hear that! This process is so simple it's awesome to hear they'll be even more added on the UI side, probably bring in more people. Can't wait to see it.
I'm not too sure what you're asking. Using a non Klipper environment (like Marlin) they have the ability to direct your print head and probe to exact locations in series. Which would allow you to adjust each corner. Having the probe take results and give you realtime data might be a bottleneck there but I'm sure if you spent enough time you could make it work.
I'm not sure if it's the right thing to do or not but if you notice you always get a z number for each screw. What I do is try to get each screw to match my z offset number. This way I don't have to mess with changing my z offset.
That's actually an interesting idea, but I think you're torturing yourself lol That seems way harder than the normal methods, but if it works for you then it's hard to argue its efficacy ! So good luck and good job I'm happy this works for you.
Yea with the Qidi and it's enormous build size there's bound to be deviation in the build surface. While you can't use the routine in the video on the XMax3 (with some modifications) it's still possible to change the tilt of your bed. If you remove the bed sheet you'll see the aluminum bed, and in each of the four corners there are screws. Those screws go through the bed, through a spring, and then hold it in place. You can make adjustments (tighten or loosen) those screws it it should move the tilt of your bed. Getting it just right might not be possible, but I was able to turn a probing deviation of over 1mm to a deviation of 0.6mm. That all being said with the size of the XMax3's build size I would highly recommend using KAMP , which is Klipper's adaptive mesh routine.
I believe the 4 pro uses a proximity probe and not a pin style probe. So you'd want to line that small probe up with the screws just like I did in this video. I wish I was more familiar with the Pro 4 but I don't have any hands on experience.
I can't get my probe over the screws on the left side since my probe is attached off to the right of my head to the point that I reach the end of the X axis. Is there another suggested way or method ?
No, if you can't get your probe directly over the screws , just get the probe as close as you can and use those numbers. It doesnt need to be exact, just close.
is there a reason to stick with a spring mounted bed when you have a probe? would it not be better to just mount it with spacers and just use a bed mesh?
Yea that's a great point. once you have a probe and you've trammed it properly , stabilizing the bed is a great way to keep consistent prints. It's not something I do, but it's a great idea and I could see the benefit for people who do decide to go that route.
In my opinion the best bed leveling is manual bed leveling. It saves you a lot of time and money. I bought bl touch and built the click probe, didn't work for me. Now I just do manual. I level only when I change filament type otherwise I don't touch anything, it's just works.
Well those probes you mentioned really are only effective on a bed that is manually leveled. So either way slice it you still need to get your hands dirty and level. This is a great middle ground to harness the power of those probes and get the bed perfect for them to work effectively while printing!
Unfortunately Elegoo has configured some of the front facing Klipper options which creates head aches for users. I don't own an Elegoo but I normally you can find the gear (or burger) icon at the top right of the home page. Then from there you can configure the home page setup which allows you to hide or make visible different sections. Just find the Tools section and add it to the home page from there.
hi, i've learnt too much things from you thank you. i have e3s1 pro with klipper. my bed is very very warped, around 0.6 gap in the middle. i used to put aluminium foil under it but when i realize that there is "x twist compensation" i wanted to try but it doesnt help. can you make a video about it? if it works, im sure hundreds of ppl will have a flat bed and good first layer. my problem is it seems it doesnt save the compensation. everytime i do it again after save config and restart, z offsets are same for where i adjust the nozzle. so same bed mesh everytime.
Thanks again for the comment! I answered you in your previous one to find out exactly what your issues was. In the Manual Bed Mesh video comment section 👍
Ramin, I can't tell if you're messing with me or not lol right now I am not sure where/if any support exists for Lidar in Klipper. My hope is that someone can get load cells working properly, that would be a huge step forward.
Woah! I didn't know it was rocking lidar. I know it has that awesome noze probing system. I don't know if Klipper has integration with lidar yet, but there's got to be a way that Creality is implementing it. I'm going to take a closer look at this. Great question, thanks for sharing .
I was going to setup z tilt adjust in klipper on a btt pad7 but have the 4.2.2 board in my printer, so I think I need something with drivers for each stepper like a btt skr. This might work for me untill i can put that all together. Trying to get this hero7 setup printed so i can install my sherpa mini and 5015 fans but every time i start a new print I have been having to step the z axis down .01 or .02. Something tells me i need to add something into my start print.cfg in orca but im at a loss right now!
For z tilt you will need individual steppers per Z motor, so they can adjust independently. For the constant z adjustments, I would recommend going back to basics and and performing a probe_calibrate, and then live adjusting during a print afterwards. But you need to make sure you are saving those adjustments at the end of each print using the save icon (small disc) that appears in the tool section near the live offset controls.
I really don't agree with a hard and fast rule like this. Perhaps a feeler gauge works well for you, but we need to consider other people's options and their strengths. I've been using paper to level my beds for a long time now and it's the method that works best for me.
Hey Leo, can I use this for an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max? It has six adjustable wheels on the plate and how would I label the other two in the middle for the code? I’ve been having a hard time getting a good bed level on this machine. Been trying for weeks to tell you the truth.
Hey sorry for the late reply, but you are absolutely correct! You can just add screw5 and screw6 to the macro and plot the correct coordinates and it will all work. I would keep the screws numbered in order 1-6 starting from the front left and traveling clockwise (which would make screw6 the middle left screw... if that makes sense). I hope this helps and is not too confusing. Let me know if you need any more assistance!
I am glad to see more firmwares are including this option! This is such a powerful tool to help productivity and time management I'm happy to hear those people using Marlin firmware can take advantage of it. Thanks!
After adding screws_tilt_adjust to printer.cfg and restart I get this: > Section 'screws_tilt_adjust' is not a valid config section This is what I am using: [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 27, 0 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 195, 0 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 195, 169 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 27, 169 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 50 screw_thread: CCW-M4 Help?
This templating looks fine to me. I would think it may be an issue with how it's written in the .cfg file. Perhaps it's not indented properly or something like that. Which of your configuration files are you adding this to?
I am affected by both, neuropathy and grip issues. What about a "Bed Leveling Tool" ? Basically, it just glows when the extruder touches it. Has anyone used that ?
Michael that's another great suggestion! I believe Cheap (of 3d printing RU-vid fame) has a leveling tool that does use a light to indicate proper height. I never used it myself but from the small times I've seen it advertised I think that's how it works. Hope this helps !
Hi all, I have just purchased a N4M and would love to use this on it. Is there any video showing how to use it on a N4M. I see in the comments that the centre is selected as the first probe point and then add other points....how do you do this? When the mesh is created is there a way to save this as the new default? Thanks in advance.
Hey Aaron I'm not too familiar with what an N4M is, can you explain? During the setup of this macro you can make whichever probe point, or 'screw', you want to be the first one tested.
It's up to you. This is a topic that can be up for much debate. I understand most peoples' stance that the bed will change its shape while heated, but I prefer to perform this calibration while it is unheated. In the end what I always recommend is to stay consistent. If you heat the bed while bed leveling, also heat the bed for z offset and bed probing.
Guys please help me out with Klipper on corexy. I changed my board from marlin(mks gen L to klipper(mks skipr)and my printer got much more louder. I literally use the same settings as possible. Same drivers (tmc2209) ,stepper motors etcetera. The settings difference are: klipper have sensorless home, uart, and the drivers amper set by klipper, not manually with screw. I did try to change Stealthchop_threshold to 9999999,9999,500,200,60 and 0 by activate the spreadcycle. Nothing different. Also did try to.play with microsteps but the 16 was the most "quite ".
My first guess would be changing over to spread cycle should quiet everything down. When you tried messing around with the tmc settings was there any change in volume whatsoever?
If you've got a bed mesh that looks like the one shown at 13:24, you probably need to check your gantry first. The screw tilt adjust will still work, but you shouldn't make it work harder than it needs to. 🤨
Well to be honest Scott all I did to create that mesh was wind my bed out of level, then probed for that mesh. So what you are seeing between the two meshes is a direct result of this macro and a more accurately leveled bed. That being said squaring your gantry should be part of any checklist when getting your printer calibrated.
You'll want to adjust your nozzle to that screw specifically. That would mean homing the printer, then navigating the hot end above that screw, and using a feeler gauge (I use a post it note) in order to get the gap between the nozzle and the bed just right. When I say 'just right' I mean there should be a decent amount of tenaion on the post it note when you move it between the bed and the nozzle. That will give you a great starting point.
@@PrintsLeo3D i appreciate the response, i might be going about this wrong, i put my hotend over screw 1 and i lower the Z axis, for me to get that drag i need to pretty much max out screw 1 and 2, which leaves my bed with 1 hell of a bow. definitely a struggle on the neptune 3 plus. thanks btw
@WNxSect if you're having to make such a gross adjustment for that one screw then maybe I'd recommend to change your "base" screw. If you just switch the coordinates up you can make the base screw the front right screw. For instance under screw 1 put the coords for screw 2, then for screw 2 the coords for screw 3, and so on and so forth. This might give you a better chance at a leveled bed without so much cranking.
You have some amazing videos Leo. Have helped me so much with my Aquilas. I ran the calibration, first time deviation 1.42. made adjustments, second time through even worse, 1.72. Not sure what I am doing wrong.. I'll keep trying and also check Z offset of probe?
Well first thanks for the vote of confidence , means a lot. For the calibration it could be a couple things. First you have to remember as you make adjustments to one side of the bed, the other will be affected as well, so sometimes this will take a few passes to get it right. Second , double check your spinning the knobs the correct direction. I know I've been guilty of turning these the wrong way myself. Just double check the rotation and give it another shot. Good luck and I hope this helps .
New to the 3D printing world...Just came across this video and it looks very promising and easy to do. Question, for a printer that has 6 adjustment knobs what would the text commands be for the config file? I have a Neptune 4 Max and along with the knobs in the corners there's one in the middle on the left and right side of the bed. Would it be 'screw3_name: middle left screw', 'screw4_name: middle right screw', 'screw5_name: rear right screw', 'screw6_name: rear left screw' and confirm if so? Many Thanks and very thourouh on this guide!!
Alex, happy to have you in the 3d printing community! I have been getting a lot of questions about the Neptune Max 4 lately, and unfortunately I am not more familiar with the printer (besides seeing it in action at East Coast rep Rap in Maryland this year). As to your main question can you add additional screws to screws_tilt_adjust, and the answer is 'I don't thinks so'. I honestly hadn't heard of a bed with more than four screws, and lately beds are moving away from screws and going to a more 'fixed in place' structure. That being said when I get a free printer I will try and add some additional screws and see if Klipper accepts it. There's also the math that is involved with tilting a bed in quadrants, and I am not sure if Klipper is setup for a number greater than four. Let me do a little research and get back to you. Again, happy to have you aboard and I am glad you found my channel!
@alexautry5845 Your naming is correct but the numbering is out of order. I tried this and it worked, you can watch the order as it runs to confirm. LF 1, RF 2, LM 3, RM 4, LR 5, RR 6 Great video @PrintsLeo3d
@@DODGE1MOPAR AWESOME! Thank you for your response and the clarification! I had guessed which order after the Front left and front right lol. I'll try that when I get home and let you know. @DODGE1MOPAR, thank you again! I'm assuming you have an Elegloo N4M as well?
Woah!! I cannot believe Klipper allowed for adding more screws!! I'm sorry I never got around to checking, I honestly just forgot. Thank you @dodge1mopar for doing the work and finding out! This is great to know.
@@DODGE1MOPAR @PrintsLeo3D did you do this method on a Neptune 4 max? because i'm getting this error message when attempting.Which i get the same error message when attempting to do a mesh. "No trigger on probe after full movement" is the error message i'm getting.This printer is using some type of proximity sensor for metal because Elegoo says do not swap out mats that it has to be a metal mat for the sensor to work. The Kobra 2 Max is using a proximity sensor for sure just havent heard anything stated you can't. So, if anyone knows what i'm doing wrong or how to use this method with these types proximity sensors, please chime in.thanks in advance!!!!
