LET'S BUILD A RETRO 240P VIDEO UPSCALER THAT RIVALS the OSSC & RT5X! 

Also a suggestion,

simply a suggestion, your videos are the best

I love your videos.

Why stack caps when you can just replace with the correct rated caps. Is it just you had them laying around and didn't want to order?

So the top one Is incorrect and it's the bottom one with the exposed trace?

Christ! of Latter Day Saints, I love Voultar!

P R E A C H ! ! !

Church, Tabernacle :-)

LMAO 🤣

It kinda did sound religious until he said, “Ardildo”.

It happened to me too, what a coincidence!

Yup me too lol.

Ooh!... Baby Dove, followed by Cap n' Crunch!

But was the resolution different?

True, but he's going to have to get that hair permed for full effect.

Rofl, this made me laugh out loud

also called the bob ross of soldering

I usually smoking some happy trees while watching his videos

for real i come too and it was like 41.00 mins in

Does he really hate retro rgb or is it an inside joke?

@@jjhh4096 he's joking lol

I literally clicked the like button while I choked on my food when he said that. Damn near (literally) killed me.

That was like 5 milsec and you got it, lol

did you try it?

@@Grant-H2O not yet, sorry 😞

@@Cain532. retro tink 2x for $149 looks pretty nice right about now. plus you can have them add the RGB multi out cable for n64 and snes. Back in stock.

@@Grant-H2O I'm saving up for the 5x pro

@@Cain532. Nice!

Nice, I just need to test mine out

What kind of power supply do you need for this? what type of 5V Plug?

Refined my GBS-C last week. I added a FOINNEX VGA2HDMI adapter (leaving the OSSC out of the chain) and chose to feed 5V from the GBS board‘s DC input to pin 9 of the VGA out. Modded the FOINNEX adapter to work with the voltage provided from VGA pin 9 so I can leave USB Power unconnected (less cabling). In case I happen to forget what I did there, I added a diode (harvested from the USB power input side of an old RPi2 donor board) to prevent voltage from Ieaking back to the power adapter of the GBS. I don‘t know why, but picture quality seems to have improved even further compared to the GBS-C -> OSSC chain. Either my OSSC (Bitfunx) is garbage or my TV set (very old Samsung LCD, around 2005 or 2006) doesn‘t like the OSSC very much. I never have been as satisfied with picture quality before as I am now. In my case OSSC only and GBS-C -> OSSC have far inferior picture quality compared to GBS-C -> FOINNEX VGA2HDMI.

Yeah, I spent so much time running around forums finding actual descent pics. to replicate it.

Why not just remove the originals and use a slightly higher value for the new capacitor, rather than stacking them up? Seems like it would be neater, and less fiddly to install.

@@axi0matic Yeah, that janky hack was unnecessary. Removing those SMD caps are super easy, just order higher values and replace them.

@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 what values would that be?

@@A7mag3ddon Its amazing how many people have said to just remove the caps and replace them with correct ones and yet no one says which are the correct caps. Not even Voultar.

I missed it and wired it the wrong way. LED turned on after I fixed it, I'm sure it's fine.

i thought nail polish was confirmed as being an inherantly bad option and it's just best to get a can of conformal coating for not much more dosh? afaik it's not only cause of cleaning it off during later repairs is a pain/potentially caustic, nor it's easy to unkowingly gimp thermal emission on pins/VIAs to danger levels from too thick of a layer, but even clear NAIL POLISH is just designed completely wrong for this use case as it's an organic resin meant for temporarilly decorating impactable living bone (keratin), *NOT* for permanently boxing copper/glue/plastics/epoxy/fibreglass/etc that, during application, *may* react with the solvents in the NAIL PAINT that keep it goopy to apply as a liquid as the solvents evapourate (same with model car clear varnishes, which some can even eat away the solder mask as it sets, so when you clean it off/it degrages off you may have live bare exposed power traces, yum!)... a proper spray can of acrylic/silicone conformal coating won't cost much in the long run, won't crack/chip, can be soldered through (i.e. no acetone bath like removing polish; just flux) and with a nozzle/straw switch can be quite controllable, WITHOUT running the risk of organic acids/salts forming from the resins & plasticisers breaking down or impacting thermals OR non-spec solvents melting away your board and components, *whilst being a guaranteed non-electrically conductive, waterproof, fire retardant that glows in UV light* ..... yeah, don't pizza when you wanna french fry. get yourself some ambersil or mg, dawg.

I just did a v5.1 over the weekend. There are less pins where the MCU is to be soldered in place. As it just so happens I was using a D1 Mini where D2 and GND still lined up fine with SDA and GND on the GBS.

Oh yeah, and 5V I grabbed from a spot that was meant to have a diode, near the described spot, but instead had a 0 ohm resistor.

omg you're right!!! never even realized it but you're absolutely right lol

@@dregenius They even sound similar, and pronounce "solder" the same way.

Turn on frame-lock mode :)

@@Voultar Thanks, I believe the setting is ignored once gbs-control detects a clock generator is installed, but I'll try it anyway. Seems to only be happening to a select few people, strange.

hi was hoping if you could enlighten me on what you said just in case it ends up affecting me/others: do you mean the one with the heatsink on it gets hot, or the other un-heatsinked big chip by the wifi-firmware mod? i have a thermal camera if you know the expected celciuses, but it needs to charge (and I haven't done the mod yet); also, do you know if the heatsink's epoxied or thermal pad/paste? would plugging a noctua 40mm fan into the 5v fix the overheating problem, and/or does the mod inherantly bypass the cause of the overheating (or is it from bad solderballs, cracked silicon die, dirty power, etx.? )?; lastly what was the latest manufacturing date it happened for you cause afaik boards are still being printed (mine says 2022 07 at least, inb4 scrape&re-print to fake it look new lol) sorry for the wall of text btw and thanks in advance for any info you can pass along. never occured to me that I should probably dry-run the card BEFORE modding it just to check it isn't DOA, I'm usually more ontop of that...

Aren't they awesome for the cost of making them?! They're truly an unsung and relatively unknown hero in our community!

I didn't even know this was a thing. I'm going to make one even just to have as a backup. And for funzies