We continue working on the DJH LNER class A1 pacific kit build locomotive. We paint the chassis and fit the pick ups and get the loco running under its own power for the first time.
Your videos are invaluable to people like me that are in the complete beginnings of their kit-building journeys. Hoping you return to video making, it's a joy watching you demonstrate your skills.
Very nice work! I took some tips from your last video while building my CR 0-4-4T (kit K8), and I'm glad to say it helped quite a bit! I actually had the same idea for mounting the chassis to the floor plate, but I used epoxy instead of solder for the nuts since my iron only goes down to 650F. I wish we had at least one manufacturer in the US like DJH, because it has to be one of the best quality kits I've ever built.
Great to hear you're enjoying the kit building. I agree the DJH kits are very nice to make, and require little if any modification in order to get a nice looking loco.
That's a great shame, the mix of brass and white metal makes it perfect for kit builders. I hope there is a chance we may see it again some time in the future, as other A1/3 kit options are limited.
I certainly highlight that to the MD of the company to see if we can arrange for it to be re-produced. Also we love seeing videos and images of djh model loco kits built and the process of it being built. Please if you would like send those to the appropriate email abbey@djhgroup.co.uk we use images and videos on our social media sites and website. Kind Regards
Tom, Great video. I love the idea of making the pick ups before attaching them. One comment if I may. I think you were rather authoritarian in your 'must be neutral chassis for DCC' comment. I agree it's best practice, and if I'm starting from scratch that's what I do, but I have plenty of kit built locos running around on DCC with a live chassis - you just have to deploy lots of insulation to remove any chance of shorts.
Hi Andy, thank you for commenting. You’re absolutely correct, and I have had a couple of messages calling me out on this. What I meant to say was that it was my personal preference to build dead chassis for DCC. As usual I get carried away, but I will definitely address my faux pas in my next video. Cheers.
Hi Tom. Have just started DJH A2 (K33) so following your video and Tony Wright's DVD to get the best possible pointers. I will be running on not less than 32" radius, but could do with some advice re side play for the centre axle. I will be using a Hi Flyer gearbox giving 8.5mm over the g/box frames and will file flush the axle bearing in the gearbox (looks as though you did that). The distance between the chassis frame is 9.5mm. Most of that clearance would be taken up by the protruding bushes in the chassis frames. To give enough sideplay do those bushes have to be filed flush also. Great videos - thanks so much. David
The best thing I can suggest, Dave, is to set up your 32" radius track, and run the loco through it to see how much the wheels want to move on a free chassis with no motor. I tend not to like too much movement if you're driving off the centre axle, as I don't want the gearbox moving about too much. Maybe a mm or so? The front wheels need to clear the valve gear too. The rear ones can move more, so over the three wheelsets you should be fine especially at 32" min radius. Unfortunately the loco is in shipping at the moment so I can't check it! HTH.
Hi Steve. I personally don't, however, I can't see any harm in doing so, certainly doesn't seem like a bad idea, but I think the grub screw probably digs in a little bit giving a similar effect?
In the first instalment you had marked off a section of the chassis, ready for removal. You said that you were going to explain why later on - did I miss that bit? Would also like to understand how you went about that. :)
Hello friend I'm watching from colorado Springs. Looking good you get to build all those cool Thomas the tank-looking stuff. I want to build an O scale train that is what Lionel used for Harry Potter train. Youll have to let me know if they make o scale models . Great job so far
Thanks for the great video, very informative. I have a DJH standard 4 and am struggling with the motion. Are you planning to show building the motion in a future video. Again great video, keep up the great work.
Hi used the videos a lot and a great help. Two questions - when masking the axle holes I have used hole punched circle of a sticky label, what do you do on the inside edge? Just ream it after? And when will you make the motion gear video?
Hello, I loved watching your videos and you are doing great educational work. Being a beginner int metal kit, this help me a lot. I received as a birthday present the kit of the 231 A (ref DJH E115). Normally, this loco is intended for a turning radius of 765mm, and for me it is a serious problem, since my railways has a turning radius of 360mm. I know this is not realistic, but unfortunately i can not do better given the space i have. My question is, is it possible i make modifications on ths kit so that this magnificent loco can ride on my railways ? (sorry for my english spoken, i am french... :( )
Hello Eric, I'm really glad you like the videos, and I am especially glad you're doing some kit building! I'm not familiar with your kit, however, in order to get it to go round tighter radii, you'll need to ensure there is plenty of sideplay in the wheels. If you have a ready to run model that works well on 360mm curves, have a look how much sideplay there is on the main axles. Then try and replicate this amount on your model. Normally, DJH frames are quite narrow, however if you are really struggling, you could try and solder the axle bearings on the inside of the frame, and then file flush on the outside of the frame, thus increasing sideplay. Be careful however, not to introduce too much, as it might interfere with the valve gear. I would try assembling the chassis as an 0-6-0 first, and test on your track until it works, then complete the rest of the chassis, test, then finally fit the connecting rods and motor/gearbox. Test again until you're happy. Good luck.
Thank you for your advice. Fit the bearings inside the frame is very good idéa. I hope it will be enought. Thank you very much for making us enjoy your experience :) I would say here if i succeeded and if it really works. :)
NOOO! ,don't use flux on electrical wires, as flux is an corrosive acid, most common phosphoric acid. The flux can not all be rinsed of because it will soak into the wire inside the insulation cover by capilary action and corrode the metal away over time, leading your electrical connections to fail. The good way to do this is simply tin the ends of the wire by holding it at the end of the tin wire and aplying some heat, the electrical grade solder has a resin core which is a non corrosive flux and is enough to make the tin flow. Once the wire is tinned, and there is tin already on the PCB (make sure flux is rinsed of with water and soap after soldering the pickup wipers) its easy to solder the wire to the PCB. You did a very nice job on painting and lining those wheels, and the tip for these spacers from 247 Developments is a good one, didn't know they make them, as Romford wheels and axles sometimes struggle on FS track like Peco code 75.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to make constructive comments. As you can hopoefully see in my videos I try and avoid telling people HOW to do things, its just how I do things. In my view there are many ways to 'skin a cat', so I appreciate that you've taken time to share your methods as well.
Thanks for the way you took my comment, I try to let people learn from mistakes I made in the past so that they can avoid disappointments I had like the malfunction of a layout after I used flux to solder wires to rails, and then over time more and more connections failing because the wires were rotten away inside the insulation.
