Thanks for the video! On my older model LG, I had to take off the entire front assembly, so removing the top like you showed was needed. I had to use a propane torch on the hinge screws to bust loose the LocTite. I laid the front of the washer on the floor, exposing the back of the hinge. I then heated the screws two at a time, then flipped the front over and unscrewed the screws very easily. Before heating, the loctite held them so tight that nothing would loosen them. After heating them, they came out like butter!
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Ha. I just finished fixing mine and guess what i just applied wb40 to the hinge using the flexible pipe that comes with the can. Before, the door was so stiff I thought it was gonna break off . Now Its like brand new. Super smooth. The springs once again are able to push out the door so it doesnt come in contact with the front panel. Over the years the hinge looses lubrication because of dirt and I guess ocasional soap water and dirt acccumulates over time till it starts to get stuck. Im a genius and saved hundreds of dollars.
The video is helpful but there is no need to take the top or soap dispenser off. Also to loosen the bellow gasket he didn't mention you need to take off the spring holding it in place. Very easy to do everything from the front.
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Great video, every so call expert telling me the leak is cause by the faulty door seal but after inspection, there was no tears in the seal. In my case the hinges were frozen, I should have removed the original hinges off to clean them and re-installed. The problem was due to soap dispenser overfilled dripping on the hinges during the last 7 years. The video was great, other than not mentioning the upper and lower plastic hinges are screwed from the inside of the door and the two middle plastic hinge tab are screwed from the outside of the door cover. I still don't know why the removal or function of the door steel clip. Now the washing machine does not leak and happy to save another $1,200.00 for a new purchase.
Seconding this comment - at least on some LG machines, you can remove and replace this hinge from the front without taking off the top or removing the soap drawer. This makes things a lot easier, especially if you have stacked units like I do. It's a bit of awkward squeeze getting the hinge out past the drum and boot but totally possible if you are careful.
Thanks for sharing. I'm having the same issue with the door swing and leaking. I'll give this a try. I was worried someone must have sat on it or bent it when I rented the place for awhile. I'm hoping this will work.
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So you tell us the problem: "corroded springs" inside the hinge. Not the hinge, the springs inside it. And then instead of replacing the springs, you replace the *entire hinge*. Correct me if I'm wrong: 1. Any oxidation on the hinge is not going to significantly weaken the hinge, and can be cleaned off with usual products, and then some silicone grease or similar can be applied to minimize future oxidation. 2. The hinge itself is fully functional, aside from the springs. 3. It would be possible to buy and replace the springs, either from the manufacturer or elsewhere. After all, LG bought them from somewhere - they don't make their own springs. 4. Springs cost less than the new hinge and springs. 5. The customer paid more for the hinge than you paid for it.
In the video, he opened the top of the washer and removed the dispenser. After that he didn't do anything from the top. He did say, "you can go through the top or remove the tension spring and go through the bellow." Does either way work? Removing and replacing that tension spring is a PITA. I'd like to go through the top.
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@@Appliancevideo Actually, I figured it out. The hinge can be accessed either way. Through the door bellow or through the top under the dispenser. I successfully replaced my hinge by going through the top. A side note: Most of the screws that held the hinge in place were corroded as well and needed to be drilled out and replaced.
Sometime is not the door hinge, it could be the actual metal body area deformed, especially when someone was leaning on top of the door while unloading.
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@@Appliancevideo Canned responses actually HURT your company's credibility. NOT responding is actually better than replying with an auto-bot, unrelated response.
My LG front load washer has a small amount of water which leaks straight down the front of the washer behind the door. The door closes tightly on the right side with minimal effort, but the left side has about 1/2" of front to back "play". I have searched to see how far the door should move front to back on the left side, but can't find any information on the normal amount of movement for a hinge that is within spec. Also, the drum makes a banging noise when beginning the spin cycle and I can see the drum appear to be hitting the clear part of the door. If I hold the left side of the door against the front of the washer then the banging noise stops. I am going to replace the shock absorbers for the third time (every time I have used genuine LG shock absorbers purchased from LG), but do I need to also change the hinge?
I think the little spring steel tabs on the door that screw in behind the hinge mounts may be bent on my unit. I have a photo of one removed, can I show you somehow?
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I replaced the door hinge assemble for my LG washer I did it step by step like the video shows and after I finish, the door stays open on the side were the hinge goes. Could you help me with this problem. Thank you R Diaz
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The door should stay open until you press it closed. The internal hinge springs keep the door open, so the inside of the washer can dry out and not grow mold.
Just add wb40 to it. I just fixed mine by applying wb40. I didnt have to uncrew anything. Just the rubber thing to be able to acces qhere the hinge is. Now ots like brand new
I'm having a similar issue to what I think you are describing. My old hinge was corroded and stuck, the door didn't swing properly at all. The new one works great, but the washer door doesn't close tightly on the side where the hinge it. I get a door error when I try to start a load, but then if I push on the hinge side of the door to press it in, it will work. I can see the washer is not pressed tightly against the seal on the hinge side, and I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to adjust this.
You took off the top and dispenser for NOTHING. You could have, and did actually, perform the entire installation from the front. This should be a 5 minute video.
Mine looked like something had been leaking from the dispenser down on to the hinge. The hinge was all corroded but the clamps on the back of the dispenser that hold the hoses on were also corroded. Could the dispenser be leaking somehow?