Nice video. You might want to be more explicit in the video description saying that you usually do NOT need to replace the fuse/thermostat. Instead, just pressing the reset button on the back of the component will most likely reset it. As you label it in your video, these are Manual Reset disk thermostats.If pressing the button doesn't fix it, checking the fuse for continuity with a multimeter or any other tester will tell you if the element is actually bad. On my unit, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the side panel (after removing the panel and manually resetting the fuse by pressing the button) in line with the button so that I don't need to take the thing apart if it should get tripped again in the future. I also put a "Thermal Reset Button," label under the new hole. Thanks for sharing this.
Pushing the reset is what I did and it fixed the problem. Unfortunately for me, I did not see this comment before I went looking for replacements for the fuses. At my third stop I was told the button was a reset and low and behold....fixed. A lot of screws had to be removed to get to the fuses.
@@sparkywow1 Sounds like it shorted out and fried instead of failing in the open position. The wire really shouldn't act as a fuse. :) Just replacing both should probably be fine, but if you want to be extra careful, you could put a 10 amp fuse in-line with the thermal switch.
@sparkywow1 The burnt wire is usually caused by a loose connection or the contact points inside the thermal fuse not making good contact and they start arching and creates a hotspot. Seen it hundreds of times doing appliance repair for 31 years.
Just so ya know. That white gunk did not come out of those. It is called thermal paste. It is used on the cpu of computers between the cpu and heat sink. It helps in conducting heat. Not sure if this has been pointed out yet. From years of computers I recognized it right away.
Great video Michael--right on point. Our heater stopped working on a cold night and with the aid of your video I was able to quickly fix the problem. Thanks!
Thank you so much mine stopped working and I searched online and found your post it was actually the reset button and it fired right back up again thank you it worked really well
Mine was slightly different than yours although quite similar so I took all the screws out and the side panel and I got to say again your video was very informative I would have never figured that out and I saw the little button that you had mentioned about resetting after you replace the thermal coupler and I pushed on it and it actually clicked I plugged it in and boom it fired right up
Steve Barker I think I read some people drill small holes so they can hit those with let’s say a toothpick. However finding the exact placement could be tricky.
If I can never return the favor I'm a Builder and Carpenter please feel free to reach out with any questions My email is sfb 1 2 3 4 2 at aol.com thanks again bud
Thank you for posting. This saved me from scrapping my heater. Mine had a factory installed red reset button attached to the thermal part you posted. I just had to push hit back in to reset. Not sure why they would make it so difficult. They could have just had an external reset button to avoid disassembling the entire heater, what a hassle!
Kevin Berryman manufacturer wants to sell you a new heater. Reliable products don't make stockholders happy. A sad reality of today's business climate.
Thanks! Was about to scrap mine till I saw this video, found I had a burned one. Temporarily jumped the wires and it turned on so I know that was the problem. And like Joseph mentioned, the white gunk is heat transfer compound.
I thought that looked more like thermal paste! And YES you can use a 250V version in a 110-125V circuit. That's because it is HEAT, not volts that cuts the circuit, just like a typical fuse is rated for upper volts when it's AMPs that can cause it to blow. That voltage rating is an upper limit only.
Thank you very much for that tip about turning it on and off with the "ON/OFF" button on the front of the machine, instead of the orange toggle "0/1" button on the back. I presume that rear switch is there only to prevent wasting "ghost" electricity when not in use for a prolonged time. I just found an Ecotronic 1500W model GD8115BW-L infrared space heater yesterday by a dumpster. It's fairly similar to what you have. It has the same orange tag on the same type of cord, and "Do Not Cover" on top. So I think they both might have been made at the same Chinese factory. Except for 3 minor cosmetic issues, mine works great.
The voltage rating is the dielectric strength of the electric insulation within the fuse. 120 volts is within that range. The amp range is more important, and that is the same or greater than the original for the current the thermal fuse can handle. The most important number is the temperature rating. The white stuff is thermal compound which helps to make a better thermal connection with the body of the unit. It's best if you use some. The thermal fuse is resettable, so that should help in the future.
The white stuff is heat sink compound. It is placed on the outside body of the sensor to help the transferrance of heat from metal to metal. It is commonly found on heat sinked transistors in electronics. My two cents!
@@sparkywow1 the make up inside the over heat sensor is like a set of points that make and break when it over heats it breaks or opens the point can get burnt contact surfaces and can cause a higher resistance causing the connections feeding the to get very hot from the higher resistance sometimes this can be the result of burnt wire but also dirty filter or dirty fan blade or motor bearings could be worn out due to lubrication which many are lubed at factory and you usually cant lube them because they are sealed and if rpms of motor slows down the heater will get a little hotter causing the overload heat sensor to go bad if its a auto reset type but most are not because the part would cost a little more so there are three or more types manual resets auto rests and one time no reset that have to be replaced just like a fuse these are know as thermal discs limits they are use in many devices other than heaters but have different heat ranges that open them up to cut the voltage off some are low heats some are higher heat ranges depending on there function i was in electronics for over 35 years and ended up retiring as an electrician
Awesome video, Michael I did not change the fuses but just clean the white glum off and my it works . Without your video I will not know where to start and what to do. Thanks
I took it apart just as you showed and mine only had one of the 2 fuses yours had but I cleaned it off pushed the button and (button was white instead of black) and like magic it works again! For the orientationally challenged maybe mark the panels with a maker for top , bottom, Left side and Right to make reassembly just a bit easier ....using a hand held screwdriver is not much more work than using the electric ones. and you wont strip the plastic or sheet metal. Thanks again I have 2 of these so your really saved me. send me an address and I will send you a gift.
My heater showed e1 & e3 codes- my filter was plugged with dust and caused it to overheat; I couldnt see it was dirty toll I looked closely, then I vacumed it to clean.
Thanks... Mine was the HT1198 model... The small black one...it was a job getting to them but I got there...One had the reset other didn't... I pushed the reset... Turned main power on but the power switch on the top just flashes... I am going to amazon and ebay not to order replacements for both... Thanks again
the white stuff is thermal compound it is used on many stuff to help make heat transfer better. you can youtube heatsink compound or thermal compound. what probably happened is the thermal switch was cycled too many times and failed. the heating elements can fail too
Great video I have 2 units that have the E1 error code, they say it could be dirty but I tried cleaning them and still get the E1. Will replacing these clear the E1? Thx
The white substance on that part you pulled out is not leaking that white stuff is a heat sink paste or compound to help sense the heat better incase its overheating when installing new ones you might want to use that compound on your new ones that compound is silicon white paste its used also on stereo and amplifiers to dissipate the heat to a heat sink just the opposite of the function on the heater just reverse action to get job done one draws off the heat to a heat sink for electronic devices and the one you are working with is used on heater overheat the compound helps to you might say fell or transfer the heat better to the overload sensor same job for this compound but different purposes
Just to follow up, my two fuses had different values. One was 120, and the other was 150 with reset. I am sure these were Celsius temps. I replaced them both with 120s. The replacements on eBay just a few bucks.
You never showed the trouble to begin. On mine the power switch on back lights up, but display on front does nothing. I have changed those fuses and still nothing.
That switch is for safety.. you never want to double the temperature on a temp safety switch... they designed it for a reason. Plus. Resets are good. It's like a resetable fuse
I have one that was sitting in a room that I had some mold issues with and it was in there for probably about two years with the room shut with no heat getting into the room could constant cold permanently destroy a heater like this? I was curious because I am moving out of the house and I wanted to heat up that room so I could kind of try to go through it to get stuff before I'm out of the house permanently and when I went to plug this heater in it immediately tripped a breaker down in the basement for that circuit just plugging it in tried it on another circuit in the house blew that one as well is this thing completely toast?
How can you tell if the heating elements are really giving out full heat ??? Even when the infrared element is on and glowing, how do you test heat output ???? Thanks
The white gunk is heat sink compound use to connect thermal heat transfer fella. Not necessarily a bad semiconductor device. Item must be tested using standard means. The 250 volts rating will cover the 125 volts too.
My faulty unit shuts the fan off when the desired temp is reached, however, the elements continue to glow and wont shut off unless you unplug it. Could these thermal fuses cause this problem as well?
let me get this straight I may be able to just push in the black plastic tab on the front side of the KSD 301 component .but if that doesnt work then I can replace that KSD 301 buy ordering them off the internet..a month ago Kee Tan said he fixed his without replacing the fuses.....I hope I have the same situation. If I do have to order the parts do you have the web address?
Rodney Beasley Yes, try the reset. See if that will work. Otherwise replacements on eBay or Amazon. My heater running next to me right now. Still running great!
red light on back on switch . but no power to front control panel. There is a reset in the center of the thermal overload. but you have to take it all apart to reset.
Notice that button in the middle is up? It can be pressed back in. It is essentially a safety switch, and will pop if it becomes too hot. Like a breaker, and can be "reset". If you are reading this, save yourself. Push the button. Move on.
On the original of the piece you just replaced... Do y'all know/remember which clip goes back where? The prongs that the clips attach to, are labeled A & B... One clip connects to AC-L & the other connects to .. A separate thing. Or does that matter 😂
I just took apart of one of these heaters and one of those two had reset switch on mine it was pink. the white stuff is thermal paste. It's suppose to have it.
Probability too late now, but did you try cleaning the air filter? A dirty filter will slow the flow of air through the heater, no matter how strong the fan.
They are different temps 150C (the one right after the tilt switch) and 120C wired into the main board. If you have a multi meter thats the best way to check if it works. For me the 150C is faulty. For the small price you might as well. If you dont have a tester then yes replace them both.
The fan motor is very small and it doesn't take much dirt to stop it from spinning. Spray some WD-40 on the end bearings and it should start spinning again.
*Model ZCHT1001US only: Infrared space heater reset (If unit was overheated)* *1. Front of heater facing away from you, you'll remove 5 silver screws from the back (3 on left side & 2 on inner top)* *2. Then you'll have to slide off the top cover by pulling it inward towards you. (Back of heater facing you)* *3. Once that's off, you'll unscrew 2 black screws on the left (now visible once top cover was removed)* *4. Flip unit on side with the left side facing ceiling, this time you will slide the side cover off by pushing it away from you. (rear of heater still facing you)* *5. There should be two wires with rubber casings at the head (more than likely braided red & dusty pink) & a dial like thing sticking out in between it.* *6. Poke it, it doesn't click or make any noise. (Feel free to press it several times if you are unsure)* *7. Reassemble the heater. (Fit on the left side casing) then prop it upright, 2 black screws from under the top, fit on top cover, 2 silver screws at the backs inner side, and then 3 of the left screws. Once you've finished these steps, stand up, do some stretches & last but not least plug in the unit & see if it's FIXED.*
I own several of these things. The switch went out on one and the fan went out on another. Easy fixes but lifesmart is a chinese company who will not supply parts for these heaters. If something goes out you simply throw the unit away and never buy another lifesmart infrared heater. I hope they go out of business!
