Good job. I appreciate the review. I agree, the locking system can be a tad bit tricky for beginners like myself. I am in the middle of installing it in my basement. I am not that handy but I am figuring it out as I go.
@@JonesKnows Thanks for the response. There are a few spots that I didnt measure correctly and I am left with some areas where the subfloor is still exposed. I was planning on cutting some of my left over vinyl planks and using wood glue to patch any of the spots where I need to cover. Do you think that will work? Most of the floor looks decent, just a few spots I had trouble with, mostly the doorway angles, and the last row.
lifeproof wear layer is only 6 mil but they seem to claim that they add a ceramic coating to make it more scratch resistant. What do you think of the added ceramic coating?
e are ripping up our carpet now and came across a big problem. Basically, we remodeled and added a room. The old room had a raised plywood down and then linoleum. The carpet guy had ripped up the linoleum and the board was left in place as it was glued down... or something. So to smooth the transition he used the same plaster you used to fix uneven flooring. The board goes through the hall (from wall to wall horizontally) toward the entrance of the hallway. Then, continues through the middle of the room on the other side of the wall.. (We made that room larger when we remodeled.) Hard to explain without photos. But, basically, we have a raised floor with plaster and don't know if we can use the vinyl flooring over the transitions. Or, for the hallway, we could put a doorway and make a transition there at that spot somehow? Keep the carpet in the bedroom if we have to? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. We are on a budget, so anything too major would probably be out of the question. Thank you!
DARN... We also found that the first 5 inches along the wall and sliding glass door that the cement is a bit higher than the subflooring (we have a floating wood floor).
Thanks for the video. I found Alpine Backwoods Oak Multi-width at Home Depot it says it's 6.5 mm thick and a 6 mil wear layer for $3.39 sq/ft with a limited lifetime residential warranty. I like the 3 different size boards and multi-color board look but is the 6 mil just to small or do they do something special to their wear layer that makes them more scratch resistance than say a 12 mil layer? Also I thought about buying 2 different finishes from the same product line so I can have more different looking boards so they don't repeat. Is this a good idea? I thought about combining Alpine Backwoods Oak and Distressed Wood together to do my floor. Also do you know if the latching system on the Home Depot line Woodland and Heritage are any good?
Great video... I would love to put this in my whole house but the stairs make me a bit nervous. I’m also leary of having a HomeDepot installer for the stairs.
Thank you. I love vinyl for the floors but I always do solid wood stair treads stained to match the floor on the stairs. Lifeproof makes a stairnose but they're overlapping which means they sit on top of the floor verses flush to the floor. I don't really care for overlapping stair nose. If my customers purchase these stair nose I will install them, but I first show them how they will look. I personally don't like the way they look and I think they are a tripping hazard on a staircase. Also I would never let Home Depot install your stairs. Their guys aren't good enough because most of them have just started installing floors and don't have nearly enough experience. I installed for Home Depot years ago and I was shocked to see and hear about all the problems they had on installations. I was constantly being asked to fix jobs that their other crews installed improperly. I just put a new video out today showing wood steps with vinyl flooring, however in this video we didn't do standard wood steps we did double thick steps that my customer requested. You should still be able to get the general idea. The only difference with this staircase is the steps are square front instead of round front and they are thicker then normal.
Your installation videos are very helpful. Thank you! My husband and I are laying a floating coretec floor. However we are running into a problem figuring out how to lay the floor and connecting it to the matching flush stair nose we purchased. We have a raised dining room with the steps in the middle leading down into the living room. We want to run the planks perpendicular to the steps to match the direction in the living room. Do you know how we could do that and end up with the groove end without having all the boards the same size? We have considered buying a staircap piece instead but we like the flush look. I hope you can make sense of what I mean.
Hey Jones, watched a few of tour vids, and seems youve gone to a new favorite as of late. Aside from that im still considering lifeproof for our home. The question is how would you rate color consistency over time. If i do half the house this year, and then want to order the rest next year of the same or have to do a repair will it match or would it be best to purchase everything at once like carpet?
Hey Jones! Great videos, you’re really helping people out. Quick question, I have laid down 1/2” hardy backer (because I was originally gonna lay tile) and some of my taped seams are sticking up 1/8” to 3/16. If I lay Lifeproof over those lumps, will I feel them when walking over those areas when finished. Thanks a lot Jones!
I am in AZ..... a contractor is quoting me 2.25 sqft for demo of old tile and to lay new lifeproof floor... is that a fair price for install? Going to do about 1100 sqft
You sort of addressed this, but still not sure. The wear layer of Lifeproof appears to only be 6 mil. Isn't that way too thin? Comparing it to a NuCore product with a wear layer of 22 mil. Overall, the Lifeproof appears to be a thicker product, but how/why is the wear layer so thin??
Good review, and that's one big reason I've still not did install the LifeProof in the remainder of my condo as I'm still in a quandary of which color. I feel 90% about a couple of them but I need to feel 100% before I invest the time and money into it. Been leaning heavy toward the Sterling Oak being slightly lighter color where over time imperfections from living on them won't be as apparent but still haven't pulled the trigger. One thing is for sure, since I did my bathroom, the price has gone up!
Selection at Home Depot is limited because they only carry 2 types from 2 manufactures. Unlike other places they carry 5-10 from different manufactures. Also it does not dent unless you drop something extremely heavy directly on it.
The video was specifically about LifeProof and JUST LifeProof, it wasn’t about other stores selections. Believe it or not ALOT of people like, buy, and install LifeProof in their homes.
The video was specifically about LifeProof and JUST LifeProof, it wasn’t about other stores selections. Believe it or not ALOT of people like, buy, and install LifeProof in their homes.
Hey there. I was wondering if its safe to install lifeproof vinyl around steam radiator supply line and hot water supply line? How much gap should I leave without it being a fire hazard. Thank you so much
I would like to install this product in a master bedroom and adjoining bath. The bedroom floor is a raw slab, while the bath has sheet vinyl. Will this product span that transition?
If the concrete is super uneven then I would suggest floating it with self leveler , but vinyls are very forgiving. Products like Lifeproof and Nucore are 5 to 6 mils thick compared to average laminate that is 7 to 12 mils thick. The thickness of the flooring really doesn't make as much difference as you think. Once the floor is installed there is no way to tell how thick it is. I actually prefer the 5 and 6 mil thick vinyl because it doesn't raise your flooring up to high creating high issues, it also conforms really well to your subfloor so it doesn't feel hollow or cheap like laminate's do sometimes. Let me know if you have any more questions. Tim
Want to do vinyl, but I'm concerned about the wear layer(s). After researching, and seeing poor reviews as far as scratches, I've found some brands such as Cali Bamboo vinyl planks (20 mil wear layer) and Flooret (40 mil wear layer). Would these other brands be worth the increased cost over LifeProof/Nucore?
If a vinyl is going to scratch its going to scratch 40 mil or 20 mil. won't make much difference. Of course 40 is going to be better but not by much if any. Your better off going with a product that is less likely to show any scratches if it does scratch and wear. Products that are medium colors and hand scraped / textured are the best for not showing scratches. Then put felt pads on all your furniture to protect the floor. I don't think spending lot more on a product is going to make that much difference to justify paying a lot more money, unless you find a color that you really love in the more expensive product. To me its more important to be happy with how it looks and find a product that's less likely to show scratches.
@@JonesKnows thank you! Do you have any recommendations? We are wanting to go for an industrial farmhouse look. We have young kids and dogs so we want something durable.
Thank you. Ya, I saw that in your video about the overlapping. I got confused looking on Home Depot for the stairnose, it was listed under something other than lifeproof.