Lighting Advice I Wish I Knew Sooner 

flash on the ceiling or behind you at a wall at high power is always a good idea for example

Yeah, but it also depends how far or close it is to the subject. Take the sun for example, is biggest light source , but that's why it projects hard shadows, cause it's far away from the subject. But if your source of light was close, the shadows would be more blurry and would also create a soft light.

@@gaudiangeles1509 Light source size is of course relative to the subject being lit. A huge bright light really far away is a small bright light relative to the subject, and would create a hard light source. The principle of larger and small sources still applies and I stand by that it’s a great starting point for beginner and more advanced lighting techniques.

I work in 3D, and lights in 3D renderers follow this same rule. So many early artists, sometimes senior artists, dont remember or know this.

and that "large" is from the perspective of the subject. The sun is HUGE, but from the perspective of the subject, it's only a few inches in diameter

Yep, a mix of both and controlled is the pinnacle

light the scene, put the key on wheels, move the key based on the direction your talent is facing / the effect you want, and your camera angle

An interview is not a "scene". Light it once and nothing changes

Also, if shooting on a beach or in a desert.

Exactly.

I gues you mean towards golden hour? Bc all day is cool

I know right? That and "back in the days of film when the lights were hard" got me

also very much depends on skintone .. subtle gold makes darker skin tones look very beautiful

I agree. I barely use bounces. Would rather go for negative fill to create more shadows

90% probably a friend or TFP

Isn’t it always easy money for models lol

It's actually not easy. I did the same with a gf and she really got tired of it just sitting in one place or holding something

Model after reading this comment “where’s my money?”

Actually I was considering how hard it is to stay present and hold a neutral expression while possibly bored or simply holding the same position for an extended amount of time...not the most challenging job, but does actually take effort.

You’re totally right, I would have liked to do that too but feel like I didn’t quite nail the example there so it didn’t properly showcase the technique. It would have really shown more with a soft box

That’s a good one, in the early days I had a few light fall over on flimsy cheap stands

@@stalmanfor safety, always put the knuckles on the right that way it tightens with sag over time. I noticed on your 4x4 frame you had the knuckle on the left. That’ll get you a talking to by the Key Grip - don’t ask how I know lol 😂

I mean if you're going to point things out, then I would also keep the frame on an arm to allow for more flexibility/reach and on the fly changes, even if the initial position doesn't call for it :) I also learned to bag the front/taller leg of a c-stand@@KenDavis-uo8kq​

100% correct, gold has it’s place. Dislike how RU-vidr disrespect stuff with which they know nothing about.

You didn't seen it, you saw it

@@Crazy_Dashcam_Videos eminent insights

Lighting zombies?

I worked as a Grip for years and we often pulled out the gold lame for darker skin complexions

Yes exactly, they make a great hair or rim light too

Gold is also intresting for product photography.

It also works for emulating candle light flicker.

used keylight for faces. fill light for bouncing, it will create a pleasing scenery

"Light spaces not faces" is not good advice at all my friend. You need to balance the subject light and the environmental light. If you just light the space, the subject will not stand out.

Make sure to skirt the wall or bounce it off a wall vs ceiling even if there is a touch of color. Or something like that. It will have so much better shape.

Depends - for indoor and "professional" portrait style for sure. But on average i am super happy with just: - one cheap, small LED light/flooder with like 8x15cm size and 1000lm and adjustable color temp - a "Nitecore TUP" keychain flashlight modified with a high CRI light and diffusor as tiny/support light, both on the EOS R7 mounted either via GoPro cage or smartphone clamp. - internal flash on my point and shoots for basic stuff Sure enough often i would just need more power, but if i know it i have anyways a 7000lm Noctigon Meteor M43 "cola can" flashlight which makes everything to day.

PS this is a great video! Some actual solid lighting advice instead of it being gear focused. :-)

Every daylight fixture should have it, even when they should match they never do

Thats a myth I would love to bust, I think it's just received wisdom that's actually bad advice

Sorry I don’t think you really know what you are talking about regarding gold. Do you get a kick out of disrespecting stuff you don’t like?

They’re from www.waveformlighting.com Not quite cinema level but pretty good

@@stalman Thank you so much ❤️