Man I've been working on my maxima for two weeks looking for why my throttle was functioning all wacky and I had the abs light on... I was looking everywhere for the freakn problem thank you this explained so much
Finally, a breakthrough. When I removed the rear rotors for a brake job, I had to use a puller and wail on it to remove both rear rotors. Apparently that loosened metallic dust onto the magnetic ring. I could actually count the magnetic poles the dust was so thick. While I was at it, I replaced the bearings and the car is now running normally. BTW, if you disconnect the sensor with noise or hash….you will get errors displayed, but the car will run normally! Thank you for the post which pointed me in the right direction!
Wow thats amazing mr. Carter. Yes anything can fool the ecm and fool the technician. Never thought that wheel speed sensor would do this. I appreciate sharing with us, as usual great information. 👍
Hope it helps, especially if you are faced with diagnosing a car with these symptoms. And yes there are many rabbit holes a technician could fall into with issues like these.
I see the beginnings of this : rear wheel bearing corrodes and breaks down, the iron dust migrates to the magnetic ABS ring and pollutes the signal. This happens especially during a brake job if you hammer on the rotor in order to remove it. If your rear wheel bearings are rumbling, exchange them ASAP.
Wow, you saved that customer a lot of money! I really am enjoying your videos. Thanks for all the knowledge you are sharing with us. I found this video by searching for a solution to my son's Nissan Frontier supercharged truck. He's having an issue that he describes as it intermittently switches from feeling like a V6, to feeling like a 4 cylinder. Still totally drivable, but much slower. Kind of thought it was pertaining to the supercharger at one point. We could clear the knock sensor code and it would seem to improve for a little while but then it would do it again. Ever seen anything like that or do you have any videos you could point me to where you have been over that type of thing?
I'm glad you found my channel and commented. Take a very close look at the distributor, meaning take the cap off, take the rotor off, take the cover plate off (2 or 3 Phillips head screws) . Look for any metal particles especially on the signal plate. Check for excess play in distributor shaft. Also inspect the coil, look for any signs of it arcing to the distributor housing.
Excellent video Carter! Good diagnosis and save some money to the customer! I've had some wheel speed sensor problem without codes but usually engages the ABS motor and you can feel vibration! More in aftermarket components! Great job Carter! Thanks for sharing!
Excellent critical thinking. This could easily take someone down the garden path! Here in Canada 🇨🇦 that bearing would never come out in one piece for a quick wipe 😆
I just bought this exact car and im pretty sure this is my issue. Abs light on for right rear sensor, ill be sure to change the hub as well. I thought it was a cvt issue as well but I'd be much happier with a $70 part vs $3000+.
My 2009 maxima sv is presently doing this , thanks to your video hopefully i may have found the problem , I wish I stayed in your city so i could bring it to you
Hi if my car isn’t going pass 3k Rpm Is it the throttle body I should replace or the transmission? It starts right up I don’t hear any noises I changed the valve body , mass air flow sensor and everything else I thought could be the problem except throttle body . I don’t wanna buy new transmission and there is nothing wrong .
thank you so much really i have Judder P17F1 (maxima 2016) u think it may be a possible the coil (Misfire) and clean rear wheel bearing also or it's absolutely CVT failure it only happens when i drive the car for long distance and get hot but the temp indicator is normal i cleaned the fuel pump filter and also catalistic converter / MAF / changed the battery but no use when i press fuel it does not response RPM goes high for just 2 / 3 seconds then when i press again gently it starts moving. also while i am pressing the fuel padel i feel a very tiny small hesitation in the rpm indicator please kindly help me @@CartersDiagnostics
hello again. excellent video , thanx for sharing. i watch most of my videos on my apple tv, does it helps your channel with the views that way or do i need to go to my phone and watch it there? i see you added the video which is great ! do you own your shop or work for somebody else? anyway keep up the good work i know it takes time to make videos.
As far as views I don't think it matters to RU-vid how you watch. I appreciate the views and comments that's what matters!! 👍🙏 I work at other shops part-time and self employed . The videos aren't to bad to make, mainly because I'm not that high tech,I like simple and to the point videos. Sometimes saving the content while on the job gets interesting, especially if I have alot going on and I need to do extra testing for the channel, but its worth it.
I have a 2014 maxima the abs pump code came on scanner when I bought it from someone week later it keep goin into limp I changed the battery fuse box what could it be abs module or alternator?
Does the ecm have some sort of pid to show torque reduction request or something similar? It would be handy if the ecm could give some info as to why it's making silly decisions. I could see someone looking at the app vs tps pids and replacing the pcm and/or throttle body assembly.
@@CartersDiagnostics Thank you…I have the ABS limp issue, however my scanner does not see the wheel speed sensors……..but I don’t have $$$$ for Snap-On tools 😹 Do your know of other scanners which are compatible with 2007 Maxima ABS? I would like to pinpoint the problem before tearing things down.
Hey! I have a 2008 Nissan Maxima SE, my CVT transmission is the same as a 09 murano. 6 months ago me and my father tried a break flush but nothing came out of the back break calipers. 3 weeks ago I noticed a noise from my engine getting louder. (A low fluttering) along with that less power. We changed the fluid and put in a new internal and external filter. My engine sounds better now, but the CVT has a loud squeal right after the fluid change. When I first started it, the battery was dead and the dash flashed. So I jumped it and tried to warm up the fluid to get a hot reading. The level was fine, but when I tried taking it for a drive, it was now completed stuck in limp mode in first gear. Could this be an abs issue? I’m guessing there may be multiple issues here. Like abs, break switch, and CVT. Let me know what you think.
Hi sir! I have a huge issue with my Versa 2020!! Unfortunately I came to Mexico and I don’t trust mechanics here! You think I can have like a phone consultation with you? I’ll pay for it with a transfer or something
Same issue with my 09 maxima but it doesn’t give me any error codes, when I replaced the fluid it drives fairly fine but eventually Glen into limp mode. Can someone please point me into the right direction
@@CartersDiagnostics I just made a strip chart of the wheel sensors….both rear sensors have extraordinary hash compared to the front. The car throws no codes and will not shift above 3…and the ABS activates just before stopping.
I have a 2007 maxima and the rpm will get up to 6000 rpm and speedometer only gets up to 30. Would that be the cvt or start with the hubs as you described
I would think if the RPM is going that high, the throttle is not being limited by the traction control system. I would focus more on the cvt, and determine if its slippage or not.
@@CartersDiagnostics before I got the car the original owner said it would run hot at times cause the fans didn’t kick on I replaced the fans and still nothing but if you pull the fuse under the hood the fans would turn on but no start. Would cooling system cause that in the CVT ?
Its probably an ECU fuse you are pulling, by default it turns on the fans due to lack of communication. I doubt the cooling system causes the cvt issue. I have driven alot of over heating cars that the transmissions were fine.
