Liqui moly engine flush big mistake or myth? 

For more information on Liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below. amzn.to/2LjbehZ

been using many liqui moly products for many years..including the flush.. i have a 94 xj jeep sport with 380,000 miles.. same engine. same transmission..had compression test about a year ago..thumbs up..i give alot of credit to their products... my jeep runs and looks fabulous..and no... its not for sell...

I use this flush at my shop all the time, very good product, never had a single issue.

The video had the tone of an intro through out the whole thing lmao

Got my car @ 50K miles and used this every other oil change. No idea how well the car was taken care of before me outside the 5K mile oil changes but after the first flush it idled smoother imo. I haven’t had any engine problems yet @ 100K miles

I think it works great I used xado total flush(wich you run for 150 miles) and then liqui moly engine flush and got a good bit of power back, I also observed lower fuel consumption and lower oil consumption, I actually didn't have to top it off between oil changes on a high milage engine.

Should have spent more time on the after

Just to be clear, if your going to flush your engine/transmission do it right, change your oil twice, and your filter once. After you’ve done the initial oil change and put a new filter on, drive for a few miles and then drain the oil again. If it’s still clean your good, if not then go ahead and change it once more. Also it’s typically not a good idea to use transmission flush if yours hasn’t been maintained very well. When people say that oil is the only thing holding it together, that can very well be the case. Seen it happen plenty of times.

I used the liqui Molly engine flush on my E90 and it did clean out quiet a bit of gunk. I just got an oil change every 7500 miles now using liqui Molly engine oil.

I use this on my Mercedes E55 AMG and my Jeep Wrangler it works wonders! In fact, I use all Liqui Moly oil products and additives! Opened up my engine to do my valve covers and it looks brand new! Liqui Moly is the best! Their new oil Molygen is the best! Better than any other oil I have used! I also love there certec!

Iv used all types of flushes, I think the reason as I found out as to why not put under load is... If your car has a turbo with bad seals the flush thins the oil and risks running up on its oil as fuel did this on a pug 206 diesel bent 2 rods big learning curve, if found 1 litre of atf left in for a week has amazing results

Liquimolly flush is awesome. I use it on every single vehicle I work on and/or own.

I have a 2006 Chevy suburban that started smoking at about 200,000 miles thought that I had a major problem seen This flush thing that it was made in Germany and decided to give it a test after the first bottle the smoking went away on start up and now I use the additives and the liquid flush every oil change and I’ve noticed my oil pressure being better and my oil consumption being down I have 262,000 miles on it now and it runs like a top

I have also used engine flush to remove varnish from the friction plates in limited slip differentials with very positive results.

got an 82 suzuki sc100 from a scrapyard, took the rocker cover off and its built up bad! thought about using a product like this and i think youre videos given me that confidence to try it.

Only used flush once, when going from Semi to Fully Synthetic. Used the ORIGINAL Slick50 additive, and that was impressive for friction reduction (quiet engine), but the modern version is useless. If you change the oil on a regular basis you shouldn't get build up anywhere except in the combustion chamber, and maybe a tank of Shell V-Fuel every once in a while would take care of most of that. If additives were any good , don't you think the oil companies would put it in to start with. So to a point in the vlog I certainly agree with, if you think the engine has had a hard life with someone and a flamethrower, sure, go ahead, it makes sense.

Taking a torch to the OHV assembly: Goodbye valve seals

I use liqui moly in my integra and it always makes a difference, it’s really good stuff and worth it!

Well, the algorytm has blessed me - So as a mechanic allow me to shred some facts upon you on additives. Adding an additive like this will indeed clean the engine as you see here, Problem is when you add it to the engine oil, the lubricating abilities of the oil gets reduced and you also change the viscocity of the oil (viscosity being rather important to maintain correct oil pressure). Now in a lawnmower engine i doubt it'll have much effect but in modern cars, prolonged useage with additives in the oil can cause serious damage. Especially now that the piston rod bearings have been replaced, They used to be constructed from lead, but due to enviormental rules blabla they're made from a less toxic metal, Wich sadly is damaged easier. There is also the question on wether or not such additives will cause damage to gaskets and internal o-rings in the engine. ( i.e an engine oil cooler if your car has that)

Hi, I had problems with my fiat 500 multijet (diesel) with 85K km. The car started to consump far more diesel per mile and was not going as fast as it was. I started with DPF additives. No big change. I proceded with aditives for nozzles. The change was not very significant. I also noticed, the oil at the change was very dirty - black. It's normal on diesels, but this was too much. It's not so old car. When I saw some things about engine flushing on youtube, I bought an engine flusher (Adinol). I took about 1/2 litres of engine oil away and aded Adinol oil flusher. Ran my engine for about 1/2 hour in neutral with pushing throttle up and down and finaly let my oil out. I was surprised at how dirty the oil this time was. I mean - I changed it only 1K kilometers back. I let the oil to get out for several hours, lifting and letting the car up and down - to get everything out. Also changed oil filter. Than have put new oil and filter. When I started the engine and ran it for some time throtteing it up and down, I have checked the oil on my dipstick. It was much cleaner than ever after oil change. After, when using my car, some significant changes occured. First of all - my gas mileage dropped for more than 1 liter/100 KM. The car also seem to be much more alive and fast, but it's hard to say, I haven't do the final test on the highway yet. When the car was new, I made something between 190 and 200 KM/H. Later when problems occured it made 180 KM/H +. Since it's hard to get empty highway, I haven't checked the final speed yet. But my filing is it goes much better, but still not as good as new. I must admit that the greatest job I still have to do - cleaning the intake manifold, valves and EGR valve - be happy for tips. About the engine flushing, I can only say it is a real revelation for me. I can remember several diesels in my life starting running some kind of heavy at mileage above 50.000 KMs. I think engine flushing would have done a great job for them too.

Before using any engine flush you need to have an idea of the condition of the surfaces inside your engine. If you just purchased a used car and don't know how it was maintained I would not recommend using an engine flush. Years ago I bought a used car and noticed it was leaking oil from the valve covers, not a big problem just get valve cover gaskets and replace them, right. Well once the covers were removed you could see the previous owner did not do preventive maintenance. There was oil sludge everywhere. I cleaned and vacuumed all the build up of sludge that I could get to. I put everything back together, new gaskets, new oil, and new oil filter. The car ran great for about a week when I started to hear a tapping while driving down the road. It was at night and I couldn't see any oil leaking anywhere but I was concerned that the engine had posted it's oil. I pulled into a gas station and bought five quarts of oil into the engine while it was running and then drove home. The tapping didn't stop. When I finally turned off the engine and checked the oil level I found out that the engine oil didn't leak out. There was ten quarts in the engine but by putting the extra oil in the rod and crank bearings were saved by being dunked in a bath of oil as the oil pick up was filled with sludge and the tapping I heard was the lifters being starved of oil. My point is engine flushes work but they may work too well and may cause your engine to fall if you don't know the condition of the inside of your engine. Happy Motoring.

Back in the day I bought a junkyard 440 for my 1969 GTX. I changed the oil one time and after about 2,000 miles I added about 1 gallon of Diesel fuel into the engine, drove it about 1/2 mile (slowly and carefully) then changed the oil again. After about another 2,000 miles I wanted to put the Heads, Intake and oil pan from the original 440 on it. When I opened it up I couldn't believe how clean it was inside. It looked like it had never had that black oil I drained out of it the first time. I have also used ATF to do the cleaning chores when I had a hydraulic lifter tick. A cup of ATF into the engine oil and the tick would go away while waiting in a couple minutes. Also Too, I have used ATF in my Diesel fuel to clean fuel injectors. ATF is some kind of extremely high detergent oil. Just not correct for hard driving service alone. But I know it really cleans. ben/ michigan

It will work provided the measurement of flush poured inside of the engine is accurate.

Just used this on my 17 Mini Cooper S with 57,000 miles. Average oil changes have been every 4000 miles prior to flushing the engine. Make sure you mix this with your current oil in the crank case after the engine is up to temp. Idle for 10-15 minutes depending on engine condition. Drain oil. I would suggest using a rinse oil (same weight and type-synthetic, conventional, etc.) but less expensive than the oil you plan to use for the actual oil change). Run that for 10-15 minutes. Then drain and change oil and filter per your standard process. My head was relatively clean prior to the flush but, the flush did quiet the motor down a bit and smooth out the idle, especially in sport and sport+ mode. If you do regular maintenance, flushing the motor should not cause any issues.

I use marvel mystery oil for engine flush ., and works great

I bought a used 2012 Equinox 16 months ago.... It was using a qt. every 1500 miles.... ran the Liqui Molly treatment now for three oil changes.... Now!! I am over 3000 miles before it's a qt. low.... actually not even a qt. It works.... I've seen the results

I've used it and does wonders!! Just don't leave it in! Engine runs quieter better fuel mpg

Doubling the amount makes it an unfair test. I have a 2013 Audi S6. The engine is known to have turbo screen issues causing oil starvation to the turbos. At 100K miles I did my first flush. Oil has always been changed at about the 7,500 mile mark and it holds 8.8 quarts. I drained the oil and drained the filter housing saving 8 ounces of oil. I then added fresh mobil 1 euro with 2 bottles (due to the crank case capacity) and idled it for 16 minutes and drained the oil saving 8 ounces. I compared the first oil with the second new oil with flush and both were the same color, jet black. The oil with the cleaner did run down the sides of the glass containers much faster than without. Given how much "stuff" was pulled out after 16 minutes, I'm certain it did a very good job of cleaning. It made me feel good about the screen being clean.

I just did a Toyota engine flush with my 660cc Japanese Hatchback. Kept the car idle 15 minutes instead of 10 and surprisingly the engine got smoother and I could feel specially cuz I live in the hills. The car was going up the motorway up the mountain with less effort 👌 Plus more mileage.

The only reason this would be a bad idea is for newer car engines with small oil passages that could get clogged.

I have used LIQUI MOLY 300mL MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine treatment on every engine, all lasted over 225-400+ miles I own...(the racing teams use it between pit stops), It's just that good. mustang gt 225k, toyota corolla 400k, mercedes 500 300k, F150 290k, thunderbird 5.0 420k, you get the drift, no sludge if you change the oil and buy OEM filters. oB

never use any engine flush on hydraulic tappet engines, Ive seen quite a few vauhall engines damaged by engine flush, you might as well put parrafin/kersoene in your engine. loosening carbon deposits and depositing them in bearings and bushings engine flush can do a lot of expensive damage, you were correct in your video saying that two oil changes are better,most lawn mowers are pretty bomb prrof engines not having half the technology of vechicle engines , this is not really a fair test there is no comparison between a single cylinder lawn mower engine and a car engine.

I see what looks like scraping marks on the rocker arms in the after picture....also I don’t see any outline from the gasket or any difference from the surfaces where the gasket was....something just seems off about the after picture

i change my oil regular and every 5000km, when i opened engine front cover to change damaged water pump, the timing belt and everything around that area was super clean, even at almost 247k kilometers nissan themselves does not recommand using an engine flush, the only solution i found to engine ticking noise is pouring extra 0.5 liter oil, so if nissan recommends 5 liters i just make it 5.5 liters...and it seems to work just fine

for heavily sludged engines, specially VVT engines I substitute 1 qt of oil with Marvel mystery oil at every oil change at 3,000 mile intervals. 100 miles before service remove 1 qt and replace it with transmission fluid. It slowly breaks down sludge and varnish so the VVT solenoids are not damaged and the oil filter won't become clogged and bypass unfiltered oil. Most of today's engines burn oil by design so it's likely liquid moly will damage o2 sensors, air fuel sensors and catalytic converters.

Honestly if it's just I little run to flush it out completely it ain't a bad idea. I know old mechanics who put a little diesel into the oil after draining a little. And then running it. Then do a change it cleans alot of the unburnt carbon build up in your engine. And actually add to the life.

i use it in my 2010 audi a5 (just before changing the oil). i cant prove it helped anything, but it has a lot of good reviews. the 2010 a5 is notorious for oil consumption and failed piston rings. i have not experienced any issues. its cheap insurance.

What we heard before engine flush can caused gasket breakdown especially on older engines that will cause leakage. I do believe it will clean the oil sludge

Change your oil and filter every 3-5k miles and you'll never need to use this product. Preventative maintenance is king.

I use exclusively Liqui Moly products on my Audi S3 including the engine flush. I flush mine every 4th oil change and it's always been fine for me.

Amsoil engine flush next

I've never had problem using this product in my honda engines it helps with cleaning out all the slug out

Good review...and the turf looks clean and tidy too!

Confused. The description says why you shouldn't use a flush, but, the "after" looks pretty good. Plus, if doing a video of a product, you should follow the directions. Says idle 10min, but instead put it under a load for 10min, could affect the results.

This is some good stuff for either preventative or for problem solving. Performed two oil flush services on a friends car that burned 1 L of oil every thousand miles. Now it burns half a L every 5k.

I am using it for my Passat variant 140H 2013 AWD. Really good stuff.

Hi, can you make a vedio on how to remove build-up carbon on exhaust valve and compartment without opening the motor of the 4 stroke engine tiller , thanks a lot .

It does remove impurities, but where does it go? I did the operation, the oil pump was clogged, and then the engine stopped and was completely worn out due to the clogging of the oil pump in my car. GOLF 6 GTD

Not that it's "not safe", but if you change your oil regularly, you don't need it. This isn't the 1950's, today's motor oils contain detergents and regular changes will prevent sludge. My 2002 Highlander with 260,000 mi. is spotless.

I use engine flush on every vehicle I have once a year my truck has 400,000 miles on it my blazer has 200,000 miles on it no problems

as a nissan technician i stand by BG products but i will give it to liquimoly for doing a great job

Can u do a ceramic liqu molly oil treatment? The additive coats the entire engine and pistons lubricating the engine less friction and liberates metal parts I quess .we all would like to know thanks Joey 😊

it seems to work, but I would prefer change the oil 10 times in stead of using an oil flush

I think I messed up an engine years ago using Rislone Engine Flash. Remember it reminded me of carosiene mixed with alcohol. Think it clogged the lifters. I use some atf before a change. Add a few oz. to the gas every couple 1000 miles or so. I put a few oz in my 10 gallon gas can for yard work too.

In theory engine flushs are awesome if they worked as advertised. However what most people dont understand, is that lots of engines have “screen’s” in various parts of the oiling system…. By adding a engine flush, you may clog those screens. Then you starve your engine for oil, and cause catastrophic damage. My advice… only do it as a last resort. Because most engines have screens in the oil pump, and the EGR system… if you clog that up. Bad things will happen. But thats my opinion.

i made my engine oil change every 10k km, my car started going "slow" he did not have the power he used to have and driving uphill in cruise mode he had to switch to lower gear what he didn't do before, the car had in that time 200k km on ODO. I was in 3 shops and 2 of them said its carbon build up... id didn't trust them at all but the second one gave me pro-tec engine flush i used it and after first flush the car behave again like new. So i use engine flush additives and others every time.

Not to be used in any engine with a cambelt that runs in oil. Or any additive. They attack the belt with disastrous consequences. Change oil annually to avoid most problems.

Changing oil with synthetic will simply achieve the same results.

I used this twice in my audi a4 2010. Runs great. I dont know why people say it's dangerous

Id like to see the old myth that Quaker State gums up your engine.

Just use 100 ml to flush...with really affected engines..as the sludge will block up everything using 300 ml in 1 hit is a big no! Not a problem with newer cleaner engines that have never missed a service!

Switches from liquid moly proline engine flush to amsoil engine flush. No issues. I run it every 3 or so oil changes,right before draining the oil

Liquid Moly is awesome. If you have an old machine, just use less. So if you are due an oil change - throw some in the oil - 1 oz... drive around 40-50miles... Drain oil and goop will come out. Used to use an Oz of Sea Foam in my oil for the same result - basically thins the oil a bit.

I use diesel fuel to clean my engine but I don’t run it and if I do I put like a half a quart. And on a use car I let it sit over night with out running the car and It comes out clean.

palm oil work better as engine flush. but best as engine oil additive ie. 10%. that help clean the engine slowly overtime. May need 5000 km.

I mean as sreten form m539 restorations has said its not supposed to remove all the oil as its a mild cleaner so that it doesnt ruin the gaskets

I have used it , it's good for every engine.

If it is safe why are you doing it in a lawn mower instead of your own car?

Great video mate. Like how you done it, I think it keeps it interesting the way you done it. Quite fun and useful too so most likely going to give the flush ago on the new project car after seeing this. Cheers mate

I would do an engine flush once a year but do an oil change once every 2-3 months or 4500-5k miles

Dont give your engines drugs,maintain them.

I just used this stuff, which is why the algorithm recommended this video. I've been having an occasional ticking sound at idle coming from my N54 since last autumn, could've been anything but it could have been a sticking lifter. I had several oil leaks and because I was topping it off so frequently I didn't end up doing a proper oil change for over 30k miles. So far I haven't heard the ticking but it was intermittent afterall, but as for engine damage considering Liqui Molli recommends you use their oil as well I doubt they'd make something harmful considering how easy it would be to blame their products.

So what was the conclusion ?

I've used all liquimoly products with great results. I'm skeptical of literally everything and in my experience, there mostly snake oil on the market. But I back liquimoly like a sales rep.

Engine flush is just before oil change and if you do it its safe and helps cleaning engine.

damn he didnt say a word about it at the end..thumbs down

Used this exact flush. And about a week after my head gasket started leaking. Idk if the additive could have broken it down. But coolant and oil shooting out my exhaust..

The engine oil hasn't changed in a Nissan NR 2013 car for 5 years (oil topped up every few months)... around 30,000km. The engine stutters now. An engine flush should be used on it right?

Great video but all this could have been avoided with regular oil and oil filter changes and keeping the engine clean , well lubricated and extending its longevity.

I wanted to try this on my 2013 Hyundai Veloster but I was advised against it.

Oli mesinnya campur dengan minyak goreng dijamin bersih tidak ada kerak Coba saja

Even without respecting the prescription of letting Idle it still worked fine and did the job well. However do NOT do the same with your car. Let the engine idle for 10 min then drain the oil as recommended by the manufacturer!

Will dirt clog oil lines in head, crank shaft...? After deposit released in free flow oil?

I'm going to risk it on VQ35DE that has around 90k miles on it. I did notice some deposits in the rocker covers, possibly someone in the past ran it on low level oil. Want to flush it just to be sure, if it fails it fails...

wear from oiling issues wouldn't necessarily show up in a compression test, you'd see wear in bearings and cam lobes

I see a lot of videos about claiming the engine flush damages the engine long term.. my mechanic suggested to use it for my Audi Q5.. pls advise is it safe?

Engine flush is only good for new engines or recently fully rebuilt engine it could clog oil passages and cause oil leak for old worn engine

Damn... these videos are pretty similar to Project Farm's videos

Thanks a lot for the video, from what I can see it worked fine the engine looks much cleaner after the flushing. I have used it once without problems so I think it's a good product.

very interesting! could you please try and check the results with Syntoflon ET? thanks

Could you do the jmb fuel injection Cleaner

Running it underload though doesn't show you how it works when someone uses it as directed. If someone sees you put the engine underload then decides to do the same thing in their car they could potentially do serious damage. I'd like to see this again but used as directed

One time I did seafoam before a road trip from CO to Cal and it blew up in Utah. May have been coincidence it was a Toyota Celica gt haha 2000 year haha. Kinda known for piston problems.

Kia sorento 2011 base 290K miles. I use it at every oil change

The can says "For all 4-stroke gasoline and diesel engines" ... a lawn mower is not a 4 stroke.

There wasn't any "sludge", the oil was just torched. This is a Lawnmower - not an actual vehicle. If someone is using Engine flush because they think they have "sludge", then they are in for a worse day. Never use an Engine flush until the CAM cover is removed and you can inspect/clean/remove all large debris. Warning: If you simply change oil/filter with frequency more often than manufacturers recommend, you will be in a good place for a long time. If you don't have the $ to maintain a vehicle, then you'll end up with a car with expired registration like many another. Cars aren't getting any cheaper BTW.

The best way is top over haul. Not doing this will make your engine more damage

How can you call that a test when you don't use manufacturer's directions

When it removes gunk and the gunk goes and blocks an oil way best just change the oil and leave it

Used engine flush forever and never had any issues? I've never used engine flush and never had any issues.