Thankyou so much for recording this, I've got an SR2 genset that's been standing for probably 10+ years now, and the manky old fuel's practically the same viscosity as engine oil at this point! Going to need a lot of flushing and bleeding 😅
Afternoon Steve. Your welcome, thanks for your comment. In answer to your question, yes, I will be doing a video on overhauling both the Lister LH150 hydraulic gearbox, and, I'll also be doing a video covering the LM100 mechanical gearbox, if I can find one, I will also do a video on the Lister SL3 gearbox which is the older version of the LM100. Stay tuned for both of the videos as I'll be producing them in the next couple of months. Cheers LDW
Hi, i have a ST2 that has a similar looking fuel shutoff thing as that, but i cant seem to get the big lever on the outside (the one you are moving at around the 4:25 mark in the video) to move. so to kill it, i have to hit the compression release lever. The plate behind it looks adjustable, so im not sure if its not of adjustment or what, and i cant find anything about how to adjust that style of fuel shutoff. Any tips would be greatly apricated!
Evening Andrew. Open up your fuel pump housing and check if your fuel pump rack is able to move at all, is this a variable speed engine or is this a fixed speed engine.? Very important detail as each is setup differently for the stop control. If you can move the fuel rack with your finger then the stop lever is possibly jamed as its a steel shaft passing through an alloy housing with a rubber O ring seal behind the stop plate, this is adjustable for fixed speed and variable speed engines hence knowing this detail would help. Inside this shaft is secured with a 7/16 nut and undoing this will alow the shaft to be withdrawn but be very careful as there will be a spring connected too this shaft linkage, clean the shaft and the hole, renew the seal O ring, refit the same way as removing and ensure everything is lined up and moves freely and all the control springs are replaced correctly. Hopefully that helps you some what, feel free to ask if you get stuck. Cheera Ben LDW
yes, the fuel rack moves fine with your finger, and it holds rpm without trying to run away or anything, so i dont think its a stuck rack. it is a single speed generator engine out of an old light tower. I did take the bolt out directly above the shutoff lever, and without that, the whole plate rotates, and it does pull the rack closed. so i think its just the lever is somehow stuck in that plate. Thanks again! @@VintageDieselCenter
Open up the fuel pump cover and check if the fuel control rack on the two injection pumps move fully from left to right, if it doesn't move then both pumps will need removing and be reconditioned by a professional injection pump engineer, I would recommend using Chris at CJ diesel injection specialists based in Shepperton UK for all things Lister injection equipment related enquiries.
Hi, Tks for the reply. I found out that there is an idle spring fitting on my engine fuel pump #2. which is working against the governor forces, which is why the governor cannot control. I your video #2 fuel pump does not have that idle spring. Maybe that the problem is. I need some information about it, drawing or something, before dive into it. I am from India.
If some water got in the fuel system, what would the procedure be to get the water out please?. I was thinking of pumping clean fuel through the furthest bleed hole and letting the fuel run out of the fuel return maybe?
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks for replying. Do you know if the ST2 engine also has the hidden bleed screw behind the plate?. Also my problem started after i run out of fuel and had no choice but to use waste engine oil mixed with diesel. I noticed a few missfires when running, it also got harder to start in the morning, the revs would only increase very slowly and it would shudder a bit. Then the other morning it almost started but stalled and now it just fires a few times and just seems starved of fuel. Would you think the fuel filter clogged would cause this problem? Thank you kindly. One more thing!, i tried putting a little diesel into the air intake, was it okay to do that?
@ATI331 If you have run old engine oil through the engine you have most likely damaged the injector nozzles. You may also have a blocked fuel filter. The ST and SR engines are basically the same but the ST had bigger cylinder barrels. Purge the system with FRESH CLEAN diesel and change your filters, bleed up as normal and it should run. If not you have probably got a bad injector. Cheers LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter Thanks again. I seen quite a few videos of people running 50/50 engine oil and diesel with no issues. What is the best way to purge?, use a hand pump on one of the inlet pipes? or just let the fresh clean diesel run through?
Thanks, Ben! I got an sr3 (1973) a year or so ago but when looking online for info, I wasn't able to find much related to the Sr line. Mine is currently coupled to a 15kva 3 phase 110 / 208 v generator. Thinking of swapping the head out to a more modern (brushless) single phase 110 / 220 v unit to run my home in case of a mains outage. Do you find the governors on these Sr engines are good at maintaining 1800 rpm under varying loads? Thanks again and hope all is well!
Yes, but, be very careful when setting the governors on the S series engines, the SR were set to 1600rpm to alow for various loading, I have had 8kw on a 7kw head and the engine know the load was there, but, the revs didn't drop below 1500rpm on full load, the governors are very responsive to "sudden" or "Start up" loads and recover in a matter of seconds. If you prefer il do a video on how to set a governor on the SR and how to adjust for the correct speed. Remember, the RPM speed of the engine also equates too the Hrz of the generator head, while the AVR (auto voltage regulator) will compensate for the voltage difference it will not compensate for the hrz. An engine running at 1500rpm will produce 50hz and an engine running at 1600rpm will produce 60hz. Hope that helps. Cheers LDW
@@VintageDieselCenter it does!! The tag on mine says 1800 rpm and I believe for 60 hz (Canadian) power they do run at 1800 rpm. I'll have to go back through my pictures but I don't believe my sr3 has the self bleeding option you showed on this one. I've changed the oil (10w 40) and screw on (automotive style) oil filter. I've confirmed the rack isn't stuck. Any other suggestions you may have? I believe this to be a low hour, original engine and am looking forward to getting it in service again 😀 Thank you again!
@@jeffanthony5434 just as a heads up. 10w40 is too thin for an SR engine. I would recommend using SAE20 in cold climates or in very hot climates SAE30.
If the gaskets are not perished or damaged then I don't particularly see a need too change them on my own engines, However if this was a client's engine then yes I would change them as a matter of caution incase they fail down the road. Cheers LDW
@@thefloatingapothecaryroman16 Good morning. No they are not, The ST rocker cover gaskets are a different shape too the SR rocker cover gaskets. Cheers LDW
This engine is not known for wearing injection pump elements. However, there are significant factors to take into account if your having issues with your injection pumps. 1. Poor quality diesel will damage these pumps. 2. Contaminated diesel will damage these pumps. 3. Water in the fuel or poor filtration systems will damage these pumps. 4. Poor quality spares are being used. Use Genuine Bryce injection spares. Do not use cheep after market spares as these are known for poor quality and introduced poor wear factors.
