awesome video, I'm about to tackle this job. i have the cheap Chinese bypass that has an occasional drip and replacing it with john c's kit along with up pipe
On the down pipe I saw the new one had no places for the top sensors or the one in the middle. I think you said the one low was the 9th injector and one of the ones on top was an egt sensor and whatever the other one was. Do you not need any of those on the new down pipe?
If your truck is deleted, you can use a downpipe with no ports. On my first LML downpipe job, I got one with ports because I wanted to keep the EGT. However, I later learned that with my delete, those readings are disabled anyway. In hindsight I should've just got a port-less downpipe like in the video. Note, if you order a pipe with ports and want to plug any of them, John C Garage sells a complete 3-plug kit or individually. They work well. For reference, from top to bottom the sensors are Nox, EGT, and 9th injector. On mine I removed the Nox sensor and all the wiring and controller by the fusebox to clean things up. EGT can just be unplugged. There's a lot more plumbing to remove the 9th injector and you need to get one of those Exergy 9th injector plugs for the leakoff line as well seal off the source at the CP4 by reusing half of the original banjo bolt seal as shown in the video. Overall it's cleanest to remove everything if your truck is deleted. For the unused electrical connectors after removal, there's an LML kit online from "Shibby Engineering" which is nice to plug off those unused sensors as well as the DEF stuff underneath.
Hello. Actually, the new 3" round pipe is a little easier to feed back up there. On the ones I've used, the bend off the turbo outlet is pretty sharp and there's no heat shielding (just heat wrap), so once you clear the up-pipe it feeds pretty well. It's helpful to have a second person push it into the turbo outlet flange and get the v-band clamp started while you're underneath positioning it. I had this same concern before I did my first one, but actually all that bolt-on heat shielding on the crappy pancaked stock downpipe is what makes it hard to remove.
What’s this kit for?? It’s kinda confusing on the website what exactly this kit is called….. But is the considered the PVC reroute that goes behind the intake so it doesn’t recycle into the engine again???
Hello, if you mean the coolant bypass kit, it plugs off several unused coolant supply/return sources that are no longer used once the EGR is pulled. One is at the rear of the block under the turbo and the other is on the RH side of the engine near the fuel filter. I feel it's a more bulletproof solution than the multi-crimp hose mess I showed in the video. I've been getting them from John C Garage: www.johncgaragepa.com/product-page/lml-coolant-bypass-kit
From the ones I've done so far, I believe both the 11-14 and 15-16 LML's have the annoying coolant riser behind the turbo which blocks the passenger side up-pipe bolts. If you've deleted the EGR you can remove and plug it with the Fleece or other brand of plug and reroute the heater core line direct to the thermostat housing with the John C Garage (Wherli) kit to clean things up.
Do you mean the plate to block off the Y-Bridge after EGR removed? If you search online for "lml y bridge block off plate" you'll see a few options pop up. I think they're all crappy Chinese ones now though since it's an emissions part, so the good USA aftermarketers aren't offering them anymore (Wherli, Fleece, etc...) I have a China one and it hasn't leaked so far, though.
Did you use a block plate for the part of the up pipe that got deleted with the PPE up pipe? The solution wasn't addressed when comparing the two up pipes
Hello, so maybe this wasn't clear in the video. EGR had already long been pulled on this truck, so the stock up-pipe had a blocker plate and just emptiness on the other side of it (no EGR). In the video I was doing some engine compartment cleanup and since there is no EGR, eliminating that unused leg in the stock uppipe to prevent a future bellows blowout down the road and replacing with a bulletproof PPE LB7 setup.
@StevesFarmShop ok, cool. I have that same up pipe, but I went with a PPE down pipe as well. Pulling the stock up pipe tonight, so I'll need to order a block plate for the area that gets deleted from the PPE one, right?
Hi, if you're going to keep the EGR, then yes I suppose. As long as you're in that deep already though, you might want to just pull the EGR. They sell kits online with the Y bridge blocker and coolant reroute hoses. It really cleans things up and makes access easier to other stuff once it's out of there. Note, I think you'll need a tune whether you pull or block it. You probably know that already.
Hello, yes I don't think the downpipe will come out of there with the heat shield attached. If it can, it will be a real fight. If you watch until later in the video you can see the old and new downpipes side by side. You can sort of see where that center heat shield bolt tab is, slightly above and behind the 9th injector port. It is probably the worst one to reach. I think I usually take this one off from the fenderwell, but you might be able to reach down from above to at least help you find where it is the first time. I used a flex head ratcheting wrench to get those out. Hope you're able able to get it, it's a crappy job with the body on.
@@StevesFarmShop thank you I did get the bolt out and with a strap did pull it out. Now the bad part the top up pipes bolts . Did you go from the top or the wheel well.
Hello, glad you got your downpipe out. For the top up pipe bolts, personally I think it's easier to do them from the wheel well. I don't have a topside creeper and find that the turbo outlet sort of overhangs the pedestal and makes that hardware hard to see from the top. Two things though, I can't remember if I said this in the video... If you're in the rust belt, soak the crap out of them with a good penetrant before really leaning into it. Breaking off those bolts in the pedestal will make for a bad day! It means pulling the turbo to drill and for me the whole turbo pull job with body on takes 6-8 hours. The other thing, that EGR coolant supply tube behind the up pipe will block access to 1-2 of those bolts. You have to remove the hold down bolt and pull that tube out of there first. I've found it easiest to pull up on it from the engine bay with a prybar while twisting. If it's never been out before, it probably won't come out without twisting. If your truck doesn't have an EGR anymore, that tube doesn't have to go back in. You can plug it off with one of the plugs like the Fleece one in the video, but you'll need the Wherli / John C Garage Coolant reroute kit to connect the heater core to T-stat housing back up. Good luck with your project.
@@thomaspaul929I did this job last week. From the top it’s easier. But u gotta have the turbo heat shield off. I cut shield in two pieces and folded it to get it out. Then I can feel the bolts and remove. Get a folding ratchet driver, it helps a lot w this job.
Thanks. I'm slowly working on one for a budget LML lift pump install. Hopefully that will be interesting to some of you. Still mid-job and working through it, but will maybe finish up by next weekend. Currently short on time and also waiting for some parts yet!
