Made by Gordon Nelson for all Bolex users. After loading, the film should be run until the footage counter reads "0" to avoid the few feet of fogged film at the head.
I'm a film student and this video was far more informative than the 30 or so minutes my class spent on a demonstration of the camera. Thank you very much for making and posting this video! Perhaps my next attempt with the Bolex won't be quite the disaster my first attempt was...
I shot a movie 48 mins long on one of these cameras, 100ft spools each time, even shot double exp material with stop motion and live action glass mattes. Harryhausen style. I remember loading, got it down to 1 min in the dark, had to sell it in the end however, but great camera. Mine was an H16RX5 Reflex with a Kern Switzer zoom lens.
This was honestly one of the best tutorials I've ever seen. Very well done. I needed to double check I was loading my Bolex properly before a big film shoot, so this was super helpful.
Thanks for this tutorial, I just bought a 1940s model with the double perf wheels. I didn't know it at the time. I paid $180.00 for it. I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't use single perf so I removed each wheel and hand ground the top sprockets off, then used 400 grit sandpaper to polish. Can't wait to try it out!
+Simaka Wolf Actually, nitrocellulose was never made for either 16mm, 8mm, or Super 8mm cameras. Any 16mm film stock is either cellulose triacetate or Kodak's Estar base. And Acetate film can be either single perforated or double, it just depends on the age and emulsion type of the film.
The black film reels are called "daylight spools", which can be loaded in subdued light. Ideally, this is just enough light to allow you to see what you are doing. A 100' roll of film has some extra film at the head and tail to allow for the fogging that will occur. It's possible to load a camera with film on daylight spools outside on a sunny day (preferably in the shade), you'll just have more fogging.
for b&w, I'd go with TRI-X reversal. 100D color reversal has been discontinued by Kodak (WHY?!), so a slow negative stock like 50D would give nice results in bright conditions. Since you are finishing in video, you could even shoot all 50D then convert to b&w in post.
Loading and unloading the camera with a 100' daylight spool can be done quickly in subdued light or shade- ideally just enough light to see. The first few feet will be fogged, but the rest of the roll should be fine. Save the box and other packaging that your film came in and quickly transfer the film from the camera to the box after you are finished shooting. After you get it back in the original box, tape the box closed, so it doesn't open accidentally.
1: Where did you get that? 2: Where did you get the leader? 3: Will the noise of the camera affect the sound in the film? 4: Would you recommend the Bolex for 16mm filmmakers? 5: Is it hard to use? 6: How many feet of film does it use/how long would the video be on one roll? 7: Does it take batteries? 8: This would be very helpful if I ever get one.
No, you don't need complete darkness if you are using a daylight spool. Subdued, shaded or dim light is ok. Just enough light so that you can see what you are doing. The first few feet of film will get fogged when loading and that's why you run the camera to the "0" foot marker before shooting.
The standard production text that most college faculty use these days is "The Filmmaker's Handbook" by Pincus and Ascher. I also like "Independent Filmmaking" by Lenny Lipton and an "American Cinematographer's Manual" is a very valuable resource. Books published by Focal Press are usually great as well.
Thanks, clear and helpful video :) One on actually cleaning the H16 might be a good idea as well, especially the film pressure plate, if fouled with emulsion for example? Thanks again ;)
Hey @easterisle ... are there any books out that teach the basics of film... I am thinking about learning it but I dont want to go back to school as I have a BS in Studio Production. I need to know a good starter camera and a good crash course. Thanks Charles
Hey really helpful tutorial I recently was fortunate enough to get a Bolex h16 and I love it. Although when I got one of my first reels of film and loaded it in it jammed and film spewed all over the camera about 40 ft in to the spool. I don't believe it's the camera because I've used dummy film and watched it feed all through with no problems. Has this problem ever happened to you? And if so how would you prevent this from happening again?
+Ben Chew Yes, I've encountered this problem and it usually indicates that there is an issue with the take-up spool. If the film is bunched-up or "accordioned" after it runs through the lower loop, then check to make sure your take-up spool is turning freely and the film is attached securely when the camera door is closed. Make sure your spool is not bent in any way.
I'm new to 16mm filmmaking. Planning on getting one of these Bolex's and needed to know if it's safe to load the film just as you did in the video before shooting. Will the light damage the film if exposed? If so, what are safer conditions to load a 16mm film camera before shooting. Thank you.
So you have to preform this entirely in complete darkness? or would it be fairly ok to load the film like this? I wana get into 16mm film shooting but I don't know how I could properly do this
Hey there I found your video so much easy and informative. I have a question if you can answer or give some tutorial of that then it would be awesome. I am film student and i have assignment to shoot on this camera. I want to shoot multi exposure type of film. So what steps i have to follow. please tell me :)
+vashisth trivedi HI- Thank you for your kind words. A general rule is to underexpose your footage (either slightly or by several f-stops) and experiment with different exposure settings to achieve different results. The footage from each pass through the camera will affect other passes. If you have negative film, this will be somewhat easier for you than reversal. Also, your Bolex may have a variable shutter which can be used to vary the exposure time and fade in and out.
+vashisth trivedi It sounds like you will want to research shooting with a matte to mask part of the image. In this case, you can expose your image correctly while masking part of the frame, then mask the opposite part of the frame for your second pass. There is a special matte box made by Bolex to make this easier, but it's not too hard to make your own DIY matte box.
+easterisle yeah like I want to make double exposure film. Well I am sorry but I didnt get what you said in last comment. sorry to bother you can you tell me bit in detail please!
That's a very old model. It should use standard 16mm film, but you may want to verify that it can take single perforated film. Some old cameras are double-perf only. Double-perf film is hard to obtain. Kodak film specs list 1R for single perf and 2R for double perf.
It depends where you live. In the USA, buy 100' of 16mm Kodak Tri-x black and white film from B&H photo, then mail it to PAC lab for processing. Both places are in New York City.
Hi there, great video. I just purchased a Bolex and I am going to use it soon. I do have a question. I suppose I have to load the film in a dark room, right? or is it safe to do it on location? If I do load in a dark room, should I use a red light to be able to see what I am doing. Or what would be the procedure? Thanks in advance.
Hello. Your new film will come loaded on a small metal reel known as a daylight spool. This allows you to load the film with light and only the first 10 or so feet will be affected. After loading, you will need to run the camera until the footage counter is at "0" before you shoot. I advise that you load the camera quickly in just enough light to see what you are doing, that way you will fog a minimum amount of film.
Hello can anyone answer these questions for me? Do you need to load your film in COMPLETE darkness, or is there like some leniency on that? And when you're done shooting your footage, if you take the film out of your h16 to get it developed, will it be ruined if you do it in the light?
Hello. Your new film will come loaded on a small metal reel known as a daylight spool. This allows you to load the film with light and only the first 10 or so feet will be affected. After loading, you will need to run the camera until the footage counter is at "0" before you shoot. I advise that you load the camera quickly in just enough light to see what you are doing, that way you will fog a minimum amount of film.
@@easterisle thank you so much! And then when I unload I use the rewind thingy to put it back on the original spool, and put the film back in case it came in ?
No, @@sabocine, when you shoot, your film will wind onto the take-up daylight spool and you remove that when the roll is complete. Then you keep swapping spools every time you shoot another roll. Save all of your original packaging from your new film so that you can put your exposed film in there until you are ready to process. Sealing the box closed with black gaffer's tape is also a good practice.
After all of the film is on the take-up spool, place it back in the light-tight packaging. Do this in subdued light or in the dark. Tape down the loose film end so it doesn't unravel and tape the film box closed to prevent accidental opening.
