Thank you. I learn something new every time. I was putting my quilt layers under the bar clamp. I’m so I didn’t break it! Also, loved your way of basting the quilt layers separately. I’ll try that next time. I get my ‘assistant’ husband to help me advance the quilt like you did with just one clamp on the back pole.
I’ve been using the Little Foot frame for over 4 years and I have always put the quilt under the locking clamps at the ends of the back bar. I always clamp it on first with 4 or 5 of the handle clamps then unlock the bar and then smooth the quilt along the end of the bar and then lock the bar on again. Works well for me. I also bought another super clamp and use two of them on the front bar.
I like that tactic of starting from the corner. Lots of advice out there is to start from the middle, but I frequently end up with my quilt going off the edge of the batting as I advance down.
I purchased this machine last November and am still learning. This was helpful, and I would love to see more tips using the simply 16 and little foot frame.
This was sooooo helpful. I got my machine with the little foot frame and have been so intimidated. But now I have the courage to finally quilt all those quilt tops I’ve been making. Thank you. I also have the little Buddy and would like a video on how to use that.
If the quilt isn't basted for that 2nd half, flipping it around like you suggested runs a huge risk of puckering, or a mis-alignment of the quilt top to the backing. There are 3 layers to keep track of. How to you make sure the whole thing hasn't shifted, so when you get to the middle again, you have an exact alignment of quilt top to quilt backing, and no bunching or stretching of the batting in-between?
I think when you flip it, you start quilting from the middle where you left off to the end. But this whole frame system looks complicated (or time consuming) to use
That is an excellent question. If you have all your layers already basted, it doesn't necessarily need to be squared to the frame. If you are still concerned, you can make some removeable marks on the edges of the backing to make sure both sides line up with the frame.
This was very informative as to how to load without pining etc. Great. I do have Little Buddy for smaller sizes. But for larger size quilts, have to use clamping method. PLEASE show us HOW to line up e2e quilting (or various other patterns) when you advance it over to finish the row. This has been very frustrating to me. I have Little Buddy Amara pro stitcher. Also when doing a border how to line up w pro stitcher. Thank you
I was looking at a machine with the little foot frame and after watching this video, I am glad I didn't buy it. Looks like so much work to keep adjusting the quilt on the frame. I think I really would prefer a longer frame. Looking at comments, I noticed they respond to positive comments but when someone has a question ( a lot of time I had the same question) they don't answer.
I am glad that the video helped you make your decision. I apologize about any questions not being answered. We didn't have anyone monitoring the videos for a while but we are working hard to improve this.
This was very confusing to me. What do you actually mean Kelly when you say " when I get to the middle of the quilt my suggestion would be to turn it around and work from the middle to the bottom"? You say that this is what to do to avoid bulk on the back bar - how does working from the middle to the bottom work without having the bulk of the quilt on the back bar? It would have been so much better if you could have demonstrated this rather than showing Johnny demonstrate, not very well, how to baste a quilt on the little foot frame. The title of this video is 'Loading Large Quilts on a Little Frame'. You should have stuck to that and showed how to roll the quilt forward as it is quilted and how to attach it as the quilt gets bigger and bigger under the top clamps.
