The hull has to be lined up to the starter crimp .One of the lines in the hull needs to face forward to line up with starter crimp . At least it is that way with my Load - All 2 .
I've found that you don't need all the nitro cards to space the slug for the perfect crimp . I prefer an over crimp so as to see that it is a slug load . I use one 1/8 " nitro card so the slug releases from the wad and over crimp to hold the slug in place . With 24.5 gr. of Unique and a 1 oz. lee slug I can hit paper plates at 75 yds. with a sooth bore shot gun with a red dot sight .
That bar through the middle of the slug base is intended to prevent the wad from going up inside and getting stuck and to help the slug base not collapse and help catch any rifling you may have. You also need to align the old crimp fold with the crimp starter folds, you were not aligned and that is what a screwed up crimp looks like. Get it aligned properly and it will look like a factory crimp.
Pactive? Made a full plastic hull with no metal but the primer years ago ; I haven't seen them in a long time the sold here in the southern states 30 odd years back mostly lite field 7-1/2 shot
Use Winchester silver(grey) wads or Winchester pink wads for tapered hulls such as you are using. They have a taller crush section and you won't need any spacer cards.
Remington STS and Gun Club hulls are one piece, Winchester went away from the compression formed one piece AA hull several years ago the new hull is called the "HS" and can be used with the same data as the old hull. The new hull is not a bad one but it will buckle easier than the old one if the crimps are overdone.
@@Gungeek Possible true - depending on the definition of "semi". I would not venture to define 96.25/year. Not my skill set. I can only write for myself - if I cannot understand what is trying to be conveyed, I have to give up. Since I am the only person, I assume that matters not.......
