LOCALISM | Is it ruining surfing? 

A) Kooks need to learn the rules. B) Salty seadogs need to chill and enjoy their time in the water.

I've been looking for a way to offer a little praise to a 40-ish surfer with a heavy English accent who was surfing my home break on the east coast of Florida. He had a young grom steal one of his waves followed by a 20-ish fellow who stole the next wave. He paddled over to both of them and politely and calmly yet firmly explain that was his wave and why it was his wave. I missed the opportunity to paddle over and commend him. Kudos to you.

As I've gotten older, at crowded/localized lineups I set my expectations pretty low and almost always have a great session. When I expect a great session, I always undershoot.

The only locals I'm afraid of are the ones with fins.

I hesitated to watch this video because I really enjoy your content but localism is a topic I'm really passionate about. As usual you did a good job of talking through it although I will say you were maybe overly positive towards the concept which seems to be a result of the fact that you, at some point in your life, were a "local." As someone who didn't have the opportunity to begin surfing until my mid 20's and spend the majority of my 20's landlocked the idea of localism has always perturbed me. A local is someone who is lucky enough to live near a wave that they can surf it everyday, me on the other hand had to travel over 2 hours to surf. Both of us are there because we love surfing so why should the person who is able to surf it more be given special privilege's over someone who has to invest more time and money to enjoy the same hobby? Also there are tons of videos and descriptions of surf etiquette and I think this is a great concept. But localism introduces a double standard to that set of rules. Imagine in driving had the same theory applied and people who travelled local roads more often didn't have to obey traffic signals if they thought the car across from them was from our of state. It's an absurd comparison but it shows some of the logical flaws of the concept and how this double standard can create dangerous situations. Now think of catching waves as currency and apply the concept. People who get a specific wave more often should be given priority over people who get that wave less often? This creates a disparity of wealth and increases not only the wave counts but the skill gap between locals and people who have to travel for surf making it harder to "impress a local by catching a good wave" which you suggested as a method to win over locals in your video. Luckily I'm in my 30's now and moved to the coast for the first time in my life a few months ago but since moving I've been called more than a few rude names by grouchy old men, even when following standard surf etiquette. The combination of these two ways of experiencing surfing have left me with little respect for the concept of localism. Hopefully there are more positive things going on elsewhere. Hopefully I'm not coming off argumentative here, this is just topic I have put a lot of thought into and think there needs to be more conversation about.

The issue extends beyond surfing. The planet is over populated… exponential population growth is ruining quality of life. The more humans, the less freedom and the more we must compete for limited resources. I feel bad for the youth of 100 years from now.

As a local in my home break I'd define it as protecting against visitors that don't apply etiquette, usually observed on groups of friends. All the others are welcome!

Yes. That's why I bodysurf. I only have a small group of bodysurfers at my break and the surfing zone is super crowded

"Healthy barrier to entry" is a good way to put it

Hey Kale! I'm curious, have you come across any pushback or negativity from other surfers because of your fame as a surf coach or someone who encourages new surfers to get into the water?

Great comments at the end. Localism drop ins is not respectable at all and not leading by anything close to a fair example. Everyone says how bad it is to see a wave go to waste as another excuse to drop in on a beginner or an unrecognised surfer. This is such a floored argument, I feel letting go of waves is what we as surfers have to work on, like letting go of anything we love is hard. We all have to share and enjoy each other’s thrills and spills not be so greedy and selfish not matter where we live or how long we have surfed there for

63-0 Likes to dislikes. I was wondering if you were going to point out the Stab video. Totally agree about positive localism in regulating lineups because I don't think there is anything more dangerous than a crowded lineup with good waves and 4-8 people paddling in with people on the inside. Definitely had that positive experience at my local break in Hawaii when I started surfing.

A long time ago I was paddling out at a spot new to me and was too far inside on the wrong break. A "local" kid with a really bad attitude started screaming at me and tried to surf right across my back. Fortunately I got scared, leaned back, and our boards hit and both lost a little foam. I paddled out as fast as I could, and I am so thankful that another "local" came out to protect me from the first guy who wanted to beat me up. It still scares me to think about being a kid and having someone trying to physically hurt me over waves that weren't even that good at a public beach. I admit my fault for being in the wrong spot, and screwing up the etiquette, but I don't know worth trying to give someone scars over.

And how about surf schools. My local beach break is busy with surf lessons. It's crazy. And instructors dont care, push learners into waves that are already taken,etc... So local business is against local surfers big time... It's so frustrating.

Surfing the super bank can be lots of fun when it’s small and not too crowded. Which is more common than those exceptional days….when it’s packed.

I am born and raised in Orange County and have surfed every wave we have. Depending on the break, you get completely different vibes. I may live by one spot but surf another out of preference. Just because you don’t see me all the time, doesn’t mean I’m not local, I’m just surfing different spots. I know places where no one is local, but they surf their all the time. Does that make them local? Localism is total BS. Just have respect out there and give the benefit of the doubt

its a selfish sport by definition. one thing that naturally happens is that it is very noticeable who knows how to handle the surf and who doesnt. if you get in a crowded lineup and you can barely paddle you wont be given many chances to get waves. i find that its more related to your skill level than to localism to be honest.

When kooks show up at our home break, and fall on the takeoff, or barrel dodge, or generally just waste waves, they only get 1 second chance that session. If they donkey out twice, they either need to move to a different peak, or get out of the water. There are far too many people who are brand new surfers and are trying to surf waves well above their ability. Don't take international surf trips to heavy spots if you suck at surfing, stay home and learn first.

I'm a beginner at a spot with a pretty stable local crew... I was extremely apprehensive of localism when going out on my big round-nosed yellow board 😅 But a few back to back days in the water and some friendly conversation/banter and now I feel recognised and welcome.

I am proud to say we have conscious localism here at our inland river wave. The line up over all is supportive of new people especially visitors. As I was learning years ago, a few would even coached me and are now some of my favorite surfers to share the wave with!! So I can’t help but pay that forward, as you can see in my surf videos I’m only an intermediate river surfer but can still offer tips to newbies and visitors. Plus the relationships we make there make our localism something I am very proud to be a part of. Great video and btw your content has helped me improve my surfing. Your pretty much the reason I got a surf skate last October and now want to spend time skating almost as much as surfing!!

Surfing makes you happy that’s why we do it. I find that no matter where I go, no matter how crowded the surf is respect goes a long way when traveling. My first session in a crowded lineup is is spent just sitting and chatting. If it’s a point break, I start at the bottom and as the guy ahead of me catches a wave, I move up to the next guy and chat with him. Till I eventually reach the outside and wait for the guys to eventually give me a wave. I make sure to make that wave count. T rat of the day give wave to everyone, hang out and compliment every ride. By the next day, you will start catching more and more waves. Give positive energy and you will get it back in spades.

Come out to hawaii during winter id like to interview you and get your perspective after seeing localism from our perspective paddling out with the pipeline dawn patrol crew. For a week or 2

QUESTION TO THE GROUP, the definition of LOCALISM and ENTITLEMENT? Two very important topics as a national educator and surfer who now lives in the desert. What is defined as a Local? Because when I travel to a surf spot, the men who control the line up who are demanding respect, I wouldn't call local. I know how to carry a good conversation. After only a few questions I realize they are not from the area originally? Who are considered locals? And second BIG question, 'Entitlement' Who is considered to have entitlement to our mother ocean and waves at public beaches. Other than indigenous people from that area.

I think we should all take ownership over our personal ability... I've had locals be gruff and douchy to me, but I just give them priority, jump on the next wave and let them watch me surf rings around them.... then they see that you can SHOW UP and they show respect. Understanding that you can't show up is important and if that was me I'd then concede. Unfortunately we all as humans think we are above average 🤣 so the 'ideal' theory falls apart sometimes

Great video Kale. I would like to see you make one about something you mentioned in this one but did not elaborate further. Specifically, the issue of people (particularly those unschooled in the culture of surfing) posting pictures and names of specific spots on social media - to show off, feed one's ego, or get "likes" or "followers". This directly contributes to overcrowding, and should never be done even if the place isn't a "secret spot". Yes, guidebooks have existed for decades, and there are surf cams and online guides now, but they are less of a problem because people don't consult them to check a particularly spot ALL AT THE SAME TIME. When someone posts a spot on social media, thousands of people see it simultaneously and it leads to that spot being overrun. Also, too many beginner surfers are coming to the beach in a large group, then ignoring any sort of rotation in the lineup and acting like they and their friends are the only ones there. Arriving at the beach with more than ONE friend has long been considered a kook move, I'd like to see more awareness of that. Thanks!

Well said! As like you I've moved into the area I now live and am never a local. The best spots are the most localised. I show respect, slot into the rotation and have fun sessions. Never had any dramas!!

I don’t treat any local differently . I respect them, they should respect me. The beaches are for everyone and if you just stay humble and follow surf etiquette, it shouldn’t be a problem. Of course……humble and being nice are the key words here. I started surfing on a late age, but I’ve boxed all my life. 😉 Just be nice to each other.

As a Hawaiian Surfer, its all about respect. Localism only happens when it needs to! Its an necessary action that is activated when poor behavior is present even among other locals. Safety first when in doubt don't go out!!! trust me break that rule the mother ocean will put you in your place faster than any Local will.

Localism exists everywhere, not just surf spots. It’s cops who gang up and intimidate. It’s weak, codependent behavior. Skill level driving hierarchy on the other hand actually makes sense and encourages people to surf better

feels like its mostly the worst at the pass and snapper. its literally everyone not following ettiquette and just dont respect each other at all! and its been like this for the past 5 years or more cause theres just so many new surfers now its hectic!

I surf at a heavy local spot. A shallow reef break that can handle up to triple overhead and it's a dangerous location. For us, it's a combination of safety and respect. Like someone else mentioned it's the ones who paddle out with a sense of entitlement that triggers all of us. Why on earth would you paddle out and immediately try and catch the first waves you see & not expect localism? Communicate. Ask if the guy next to you is going. They might not be paddling yet because they don't need to. They just need to turn around and go. Never ever burn the old guys in the lineup. If they're paddling for a wave it's because it's one they know they can actually catch and it's rarely the best wave. Let them go. You won't see them for a while because it takes us forever to paddle back out :-) The thing I tell unknowns the most is don't get in the way. If you're getting in the way you're going to get sent in.

That was a very good and well thought out explanation for the localisim phenomenon. Thanks Kale

I think people who really love surfing and really have a proper surfing culture knows that the problem of surfing is far to be localism. It is more social media exposure, teachers and influencers who, I doubt the get into the water if social media did not exist.

8:06 you fkn said it man, I have never heard it better put, and I'm sick of being treated like shit on the waves I grew up on just because I'm on a soft top.

you have a great ethos towards this, i have travelled for years so never been a local and its always daunting in new spots where localism is obvious. I find Brazil probably the toughest spot to enjoy sessions. The tourist waves are quite easy i find having a lesson or renting a surfboard or eating at a restaurant of the locals is the best way to form rapport even if you dont need lesson or board rental. it helps them and usually they appreciate the token and surf instructors in developing countries deserve a few extra 4 and are probably doing it especially tough atm.

Well said Brah the source we call the ocean is vast enough for us all keep charging my surfer bros an girls 🤙

Try surfing in Palos Verdes, Ca, NOT!:-) I grew up there, cats weren’t open to anybody who wasn’t local, but that was 30 years ago!

Thanks for uploading this video. I have been surfing for over 10 years and lately it has become really difficult for me to deal with the people around and their piggy attitude. I'm trying to find a good way to deal with it and find quieter spots.

Props for calling out snapper / gc, my local lol. Some of the nastiest surfers on the planet I reckon. Just recently got body slammed by a 60yo+ gronk that I accidentally dropped in on. He basically went for a body surf through 20m of whitewash closeout on his 9'6 longboard then acted all bewildered that I caught it in a better spot further out ...all I saw to my inside was a wall of white wash for 5+ sec. And this is the mildest sort of bs you see here

this is the best opinion for localism

Great video, hitting some key points but keeping it positive which is great! I agree that a lot of the time if someone is angry or aggressive in the lineup chances are they've got their own stuff going on. Probably just need a hug...

Great video again, I guess you´re right, everywhere you go here (I´m talking Mediterranean!), when it gets over 1 feet, there is no break without people. We have to start dealing with the fact that we have stopped being the "wierdos" that enjoy catching waves and have gotten part of a sport of masses... So every crowd handling techniques - video, very welcome. Great Job.

Hi Kale. Love ur videos. When I was younger I there was lots of problems with localism but now you almost dont see it anymore. The tip is, dont be that guy that try to get all waves, respect. I have a question for you. I dont have those amazing waves that I see on your teaching lessons. I mean, were I live the waves are short, like 6-7 seconds at most, and since Im a beginner I really wanted those long waves to learn more. So here is my question: Can you enumerate your top 5 beginner friendly beachs(worldwide)? Im not at white waves anymore. And Im thinking to trip to a nice beginner friendly place where I can fast learn and get to intermediate level.

Yes it is ruining surfing ... surfers in the line up so often become pricks

Localism is one of the good things about surfing in my opinion, you most certainly have to earn your spot in the lineup, if you’re surfing a spot rain, hail and shine you definitely take priority. Not condoning slashing tires or bullying people. Respect the locals, rules and ocean.

Local surfers who have been surfing for years shouldn't berate any new surfer at a spot that's obviously wide open to the public, like a public state beach or a spot well known to literally everyone in the world...But if its a secret spot, then yes kick them out until they can learn and respect localism. Also the new surfer should take the time to understand that there is common courtesies when surfing and rules to follow... But it's up to us who have been surfing as long as we can remember to teach rather than to demand and force.

It depends on the local you encounter. Some visitors to my local don't respect (you're always exited to surf a new spot) while others do, some locals disrespect and others don't. I've even seen local on local localism and that's not pretty!!

great video 👏🏼👏🏼 you should consider starting a surfing podcast (if you havent already) on platforms such as spotify etc

Love ur vids! Keep up the good work

"He's so Haole he doesn't even know he's Haole 🤙".

dead on Kale! great Vlog!!!

I think I’m somewhere btw beginner and intermediate and I totally get what you’re saying... as an educatee in a few troubled situations I think positive localism helps newcomers to learn how to actually surf safely, in a hard way maybe but it doesn’t really matter after you can actually enjoy surfing better

Very well put

Good! Surfing is doing well! Real talk. Thank me for the SALES. Build more Surf Wave Pools. Individual that like to act up? Put on Boxing gloves.

People that are protective over their break are so weird. Now when the break carry’s a certain caliper of surfers and beginners come in the water and are super dangerous, totally different story.

The localism at my spot is pretty awesome. Just show respect and be humble. Everyone is pretty chill, and it being a bit of a secret spot of our town, they know you live there. It took a while to learn the nature of the break at this spot. Lots of great locals there. I prefer it over the typical Pleasure Point experience.

I grew up surfing in a popular holiday location on the mid North Coast of nsw. Every holidays the same dickheads from Sydney and Newcastle that put on the tough local act and think they own the waves at their local would come up and hassle us for waves at our local. They don't seem to understand the hypocrisy of doing the heavy local act at their own break and then travelling to other places and expecting to get waves. At the end of the day, no-one owns the ocean and everyone has the right to surf anywhere. If you travel to surf, just show some respect and follow surf etiquette. And before you burn someone for not being a local, remember that you surf at places where you don't live too.

Yeah man, if you are a 'respect the local's' diva, you're not allowed to travel to another break. Notice how many comments there are here. Everyone has a story. It's obviously an issue. Cheers to all of those of you out there who remember that you were also beginners at one point, that you also do dumb stuff sometimes, and that there are more rules to surfing than just 'don't drop in' (i.e. communicate, share, assist, don't snake,...). Thanks, Kale!

At my beach there is No Surf etiquette... Everybody just Takes the waves He wants and let the Others Takes what they want and this working very great. Some people take more, some less but at the end I think everyone can enjoy surfing there. (Atlantique, France)

I guess it is just part of the sport. When you think of it there is toxicity in most sports. Hopefully you don’t get any hate from “locals” for making this video. It helps new surfers like me to understand what’s going on.

The problem in Belgium is that we only have like 4 good waves every 30 minutes and even tho we have shit surf spots we are there with more than 50 people on a good day. Including 70% toerists with a load of people not respecting the "rules" and the local people thinking they are good actually stealing waves... and keep paddling and laying in front of you. All this comming together in the chill surfers just laying away from the peak just having an after work talk and having a shit wave every hour.

Great job at presenting both sides of the coin here. More respect and courtesy is needed from both the kooks, and the salty dogs...

You're on our beach! (Escape From LA)

excellent analysis of the COVID surge, It happened in VIC as well

Imagine selling ownership of waves. Like salmon fishing rights in Scotland or Fiji reef rights. I'd buy Snapper Rocks for $50 million. South Straddie for $20 million. Ballambi goes for $50 and a chiko roll.

common sense and respect go a long way. use both and you will be fine. Truth of the matter is there are too many surfers right now. There are plenty of waves in the world, but we aren't able to spread out unless we're rich and can travel to remote locations. City surfing is going to be hectic for some time to come...

Hey mate Really appreciate your videos.

Going surfing is like going swing dancing. Both venues have limited space and big turn-outs. Collisions happen sometimes as a result. Local surfers don't own the waves just as local dancers don't own the dance floors. Show consideration to others around you, but respond with malice to someone being aggressively belligerent with you.

Localism is a micro form of xenophobia. It exists everywhere, its no different to people in a country kicking off at migrants coming to (apparently)take resources and homes from the inginous demographic. But the xenophobia is understandable, and its inevitable. The fear, the tension and the squabbling for resources, in this case waves.

Respect locals, respect yourself!!!! Everywhere!!!

I’m a skater, grew up skateboarding and I still carve into my mid 30’s. I only started surfing a couple years ago. Surfing and skating I found to be 2 completely different cultures, to my surprise. In my life I’ve only met a few skaters who where dicks. But in my short years of surfing, I have met heaps of absolute fuckwits. Surfers turn nasty out in the water. Come to the skatepark, and you get rail slaps and support.

Surf etiquette should be renamed the Surfer's Code, because similarly to the Pirate's Code, they're more like guidelines anyway....

Not respecting localism is whats ruining surfing. Ppl cant just rock up to anywhere and expect to get waves without earning the right. Especially the new wave of young-middle aged tourists that are anywhere to “learn” to surf. Lesson 1: you cant surf anywhere you like until youre very competent in all surfjng skills, particularly but not limited to duck diving and paddling around a break. Look its very basic maths, theres 1000+ local surfers living at Snapper Rocks ok. So any good day at snapper will potentially have 100 locals out which is already too many if you think about maybe 3 waves come through per minute, which equates to say 180 (180-250 not all waves are ridable dont forget) waves an hour, and therefor 2 waves per surfer per hour. Anyone thinking its ok to steal a wave from a local who lives there, and why should a local drive anywhere else just because youre in town, can basically go get their head read.

I don't think localism is a thing. There are pricks throughout every area of life - i think localism is an excuse for pricks to be pricks. I'm a local surfer and worst ill ever done is if someone doesn't share waves ill happily take every single good wave off them. Most of the surfing friends i've made at my local break actually live 1-2 hours out of town.

I have been a blow-in for over 20 years and am a fierce “non-local” at every break I surf. This is my take on “localism”. Surfing is a competitive sport Surfers by nature are extremely selfish Example: Add a non-local advanced competitive surfer in any line-up in the world (incl URBNSRF) and that surfer will use their ability to catch the best/most waves until they’re bored whether they are surfing with locals or not! Localism is an illusion used by advanced surfers towards surfers of lesser calibre. The way to deconstruct localism is by surfing better both technically and non-technically than everyone else in the line-up.

No need to get all scientific. Just be friendly and respectful and apply your surf etiquette and there will usually be no problem. If there is, deal with it however your comfortable. I'm sick of hearing from all these crybaby commenters on how bad the locals are. Grow some stones or move on already.

I am austrian and lived at the gold coast for a year. Of course i tried to learn surfing in this time but after getting pushed off of waves and getting offended by locals because they thought it is their wave i stayed in the whitewash (what is also quiet fun). Just a bit hippocritical that a relaxed and open-minded community like surfers gets taken over by competitive and possesive men who just look for someone to kick down on.

Surfing is all about ‘Status’ , it’s not about what you know it’s who you know I find😕

I've had an ex-pro drop in on me 6 times in a row at tombstones where there are no locals since the remote area station owner don't surf. Name and shame. That's you Dave McAuley.

I've been surfing for 15 years from Australia to Brasil, Bali to Marrocco and of course Spain, France and Portugal. Most of the surfers are assholes. Everywhere the same. Never feel the tension, bad karma or even heard a bad word in other sport as on surfing. I'm feeling sadder in every session I take and I'm not very optimistic about the future of this sport.

That's why you can't put your identity on being a "surfer", they take it too seriously and it stops being fun. If you don't get paid to surf just relax and have fun.

As an adopted son of Bondi, my favourites are the ones who cruise out back on their longboard, grab the best wave by sitting 15m further out (because they can on their 10fter), then paddle straight back out to the exact same spot and catch the very next set wave, over and over again the entire time they're out there..

the main problem in my opinion is, locals dont apply etiquette but expect non locals to do so. they snake everyone and since they are usually outnumbered non locals dont dare to have problems with locals. point breaks are the worst example of what localism looks like. there is no aloha spirit left in the sport, only greed and arrogance.

I surf a spot where it's kooks only, and we smash up anyones car who doesn't surf a softtop or can go down the line.

The amount of rationalization for one’s own dickishness is amazing…. It’s a “toxic mindset”.

Gotta make that first wave count. If locals see you can surf they usually give you no trouble unless you're paddling for everything. Letting a non-local take a good wave is easier to swallow if they don't waste it. Also if you're at a spot where you aren't a local just sit under the main pack and take the ones that slide under them.

I always thought the respect was for skill, which naturally is the few locals that generally dominate a spot. I can only remember a couple times I was shit on when I couldn’t make any sense of a skill related reason. When it was skill related I knew it and apologized, local or otherwise. I then thought about it for a couple days while surfing another area🥵. Thankfully I’ve passed the gauntlet of pure beginner, but not by any raging distance (depends on the break). I can say without question when I’m at a break and I’m in the above average skillset, it’s a very different experience than the flip side. So I still think this is largely skill based. My parting thought is be patient, think about your position in the culture and lineup where you are surfing, and do your best to be part of it vs. dipping in for the best days on your world travels and jetting along to the next great break. And don’t be a safety hazard. Surfs up🤙🏼😎

My son from mackay went down to Brisbane to see his sister this week. They went for a surf at snapper rocks. He is a 15 year old kid and he was appalled at how some of the locals treated him. Was verbally abused several times for being in the road. He is at an intermediate level but still sometimes finds himself accidentally in the wrong spot. By the same token he said there was one local there who was chill as and really encouraging and helpful so good and bad everywhere. Still disappointing that people think they can own the surf. It’s such a great sport and should be something we enjoy together without ownership. We were all kooks once hey🤙

Surf in Olympics games 2021 + Surf Gardens getting builtr round the world, be ready for an even greater rise of crowd in next two years ...

I surf a very busy wave and often deal with people who paddle straight to the inside or are slightly better than everyone else and so think they deserve the best waves. I’m generally a pretty nice and approachable guy but I’ll happily drop in on people who do this, not because I’m ripping or because I’m a heavy local (I am a long time local btw) but because I give the same as I get. If you think you’re going to get away with being a dick, then you’ll probably get the same treatment no matter where you surf. If I don’t know you and you snake me, I’m gunna drop in simple as that. Just be respectful when not surfing “your local” and 99.99% of locals will be the same back.

This is super insightful. All the things I've often thought about... and probably been guilty of myself before.

what i see a lot is non-locals paddling out and taking sets like they own the place, which pisses off the locals and leads to mouthing off and all the rest. my guess is that many people, who are upset by what they perceive as unfair localism, are actually not acknowledging how their actions may have contributed to a confrontation. so many inexperienced surfers paddle out at difficult spots, snake, drop in, get in the way, and then can't understand why someone, who may or may not actually be a local, gets pissed off. that said, there are always arseholes who also happen to be locals; and you can bet that the other locals don't appreciate them either ;)

You are spot on Kale. We need more like you. Conscious Localism to me is regulating the break with fairness and maturity. Calling out people who ignore etiquette and letting the newbs know the regulars/locals won’t tolerate it. When the lineup is flowing we all cheer each other on. Even if we don’t know each other’s name. I’d be happy to share waves with you here in San Diego.

I've always wanted to surf & been bummed I don't live near an ocean. This video has made me grateful I have a snowy mountain to enjoy a board sport without any bs involved.

Had to deal with this earlier today in Malibu, The 2 foot warriors Thought they owned the beach 🏝 I’m all About peace ☮️ but definitely encouraged them To take it to the sand 😆👊🏾

There are some comments suggesting that bad localism "is just the way it is" because there are only so many waves to go around. But that just so simply does not have to be the case. For example, rock climbers compete for a route but are so generous and willing to share gear and cheer each other on. It is such a supportive sport with limited space to climb. Surfers are the worst, I've had many sessions ruined by guys yelling at me after they cut me off.

in Hawaii you got to go bodyboarding and UFC fighting on the same beach...i had a great childhood

Great content. Raised some very valid points. But you would never pull into a queue at your local servo and park in front of the guy who’s just filled his tank. 👀. Everyone needs to have an open understanding that society works best when we understand law and order but also practice kindness while doing it.

I observed Localism way back in the year 2000, living on the Sunshine Coast QLD, I started surfing there in the 80's It was such a relaxed vibe back in the 80's and 90's, with easy going surf etiquette and plenty of waves to go around. By the turn of the millennium (20 years ago now) locals were being pushed out of their home breaks by rough heads and new arrivals.... drop ins, snaking and wave rage. That's when surfing started becoming full tilt mainstream. On a good day it was not uncommon way back then to see 30-40 surfers in the lineup at The Bluff, (nice long point break) If its pumping you might get say 4 good waves per set, that's plenty of action for a handful of surfers, but when you get 30-40+ in the line up, that's a lot of competition for a ride. For some, Caveman Mode kicks in, cos they know if they don't show some bravado they gonna miss out and spend the session just paddling around for nothing. Riding a nice wave is almost orgasmic, that's why surfers are so pumped after a good sesh. Feeling the energy of the water and tuning in to the vibration of that swell rising releases serotonin in your body.....it's a natural high :) The ratio of waves to surfers is too unbalanced now days. Commercialism + population growth = Corporate profits + Surfer frustration

Surf on weekday evenings and stay away from the weekend in the summer time. At my beach the locals are friendly and helpful. It's the 40 year old men with the 40 foot boards that start the crap from the inland cities. May I add, surf more in the winter.