That plastic container was full of limescale I presume, I just did the same thing, cleaned up the container, the rubber pipe and unblocked the downpipe and it was resolved. Thank you, I was going spare trying to work out what wrong and it was exactly this. Had a heart stopping moment when the boiler came up with the same error but switched it off for a minute, restarted it and now it's happy again. Many thanks!
It’s soot from burning the gas, good to clean it out every year, you should never get a problem then. Still worth whole having a service now and again so they can clean the spot out of the heat exchanger unit and keep it running efficiently. Glad you’re up and running again 😁👍🏻
I watched a few videos just your shows how to solve L2 fault. Thank you because I am a woman without job and I was sitting alone in a cold flat. Thank you
You’re very welcome. If the problem comes back let me know, because there are a couple of other things you can do to fully fix it if this didn’t fix it. Again very simple and you can do yourself and save your money. Well done for doing it 😁👍🏻
Before I begin, I'd recommend everyone to turn off the boiler before beginning!!! Absolute legend!!! My family and I have just moved house (6weeks ago), boiler packed up last night leaving my 6yo son pretty happy because he was due his 6monthly shower. Today, I came across your video after phoning/emailing copious amounts of gas engineers/boiler people... Decided I'd give it a go. I did exactly as you showed in the video however, the little black pipe was completely blocked and the black bit above said pipe was also blocked. I stupidly took the cover off before having a bowl ready which resulted in somewhat flooding the circuit board... Fortunately I turned my boiler off before starting so I took the circuit board out, dried everything throughly and carefully dabbing it as well as the screen. Once fully dried I put the circuit board back in place and continued the unblocking process just using my fingers and big bits of tissue (making sure no tissue gets stuck in there too of course). 1½ hours later and my boiler is working perfectly! Thank you so much man, you are a saviour... I will 100% subscribe. Take care man and thanks for a third time!!
Thank you buddy, the other steps you went through are exactly the steps I have had to do on some people on my estates boilers. One also had a blocked outward pipe. So it’s worth giving that a blow through with a bit of hose pipe pushed against the exit pipe, make sure it’s clear so it won’t back up again. So glad you managed to get it working before any real cold weather starts. It was freezing cold when it happens to me. Thanks for the long reply detailing what you had to do. Top man 😁👍🏻
My boiler was making a loud groaning noise when the hot water was being run, this fixed it can’t believe it but it worked. Thank you so much Logic Combi 30 👍🏻
Great video.... I checked everything and I gave up.... then I found this one and this was the problem... water everywhere, but it's working now. thanks a lot...
You are a savior mate.. your fault fixing just really worked, I was a bit hesitant to do it myself however since Boiler was showing L2 consistently with huge rattling noise while restarting up, so thought to do myself, I will get it checked with the safety engineer though ...
Hi Amit, that is great news, I’m so glad you have heat now in this cold weather. If you only disturbed what I showed in the video, it will be perfectly safe. So don’t pay any call out charges and boot in a routine service.
Mate, I just fixed my best friend's boiler. She's disabled and she was sitting in the freezing cold. Because of your video here, I was able to get her nice and warm again before British Gas came out tomorrow. Thank you very much 👍🎉🍸
Thank you! Boiler stopped firing up with an l2 error code. Thankfully found your post, followed your vid and everything is working again :-) As soon as a opened it up, you could see the water was clogged. Appreciate the upload!
Oh yes mate. Complete novice here, no hot water since yesterday, heating not worked all day. Stuck on L2 and no flame icon, Followed this. Once I washed that out shuck it about: re installed. Boiler worked good as new. Feel a sense of accomplishment but that’s all down to you and your vid. Thanks once again 🙂👍🏽
I can't thank you enough for this informative video that fixed my problem and saved me hundreds of pounds especially with todays rising heating bills and as a woman in her 60's I found it easy to follow and got that feel good feeling when you accomplish something like this on your own especially when it saves you money. All the best young man. Keep up the good work.
I’m so glad it’s helped you and saved you money. Thank you for taking the time to reply. If the problem comes back, be sure to message again as there is another simple things to do that is connected to this. Chances are this has fixed it for you.
@@69racer69 Thank you very much. I will be sure to stay in touch if I need any more help or advice. This was a new boiler 3 years ago and has already had a new gas valve fitted 15 months ago. It has been nothing but trouble but so glad I found your video. Wishing you a good week ahead of you.
@@muralioruganti6769 is it full up again? Maybe the pipe going outside is blocked? If it’s still clear then check the extraction fan at the top is running, if that’s working it could be the gas valve sticking. Just some ideas to try.
Thank you so much for sharing your work with us... really appreciate your help really hope wish there should be more people like you and less people who try to rob people for simple jobs just to make few extra pound. God bless you dude.
Thank you Mohammad, that’s exactly why I shared it. I’ve had a few nasty messages from angry plumbers, but like you said, they shouldn’t rob people for simple jobs like this.
@@69racer69 Bro, me and all the people who have put like in your videos are in your support. Please carry on making more videos and keep on rocking. You are a superstar never forget that... My boiler died on me on Wednesday after watching your video I fixed it my self... you have no idea how much I appreciate your work. Screw those people who make bad comments on your video.
@@mohammadshabbirhossain5729 thank you buddy, I really appreciate the kind words. If if happens again let me know, there is another thing just as easy to do.
Hey Racer thank you very much for your video. That did the job for me. But it has too much water when opened on base. Fault is gone away and no more noises but radiators/heating dont work
Try the pipes entering and exiting the water chamber and make sure they are clear. Blow down them with a bit of pipe. Did any water get into the control panel? Make sure that is dry. If it was wet, you may need to replace the circuit board if it doesn’t start working.
Thank you for this. Do you know where I can get a replacement plastic container? Mine looks a bit cloudy even though I washed out all the sediment, and the blockage is gone . Seems to have limescale on its inner walls
My logic + c24 with halo thermostat and externally wired receiver into open therm, throws up an F2 flame loss error when you turn it up 0.5 degrees. If you turn it up 1 degree or 2 or 3 etc it’s completely fine. For some reason it doesn’t like being turned up 0.5 degrees. When it faults it automatically resets itself and starts up fine and starts to work great. Just this 0.5, any ideas .?.?.?.
Awesome video, I thought I had a blocked drain causing my F2, took tank out and it wasn’t draining. Quick shake and clean and now draining thanks Do you know if there is a way to get all the crud out of the bottle or is it a job or buying new?
Just keep filling it up and emptying it, it will pretty much clear out, but if it doesn’t then just buy a new one. I’m glad you’re all sorted now though. It’s worth checking it each year.
For Info : I had an F2 error, called an engineer and we found the pump was stuck, a couple of turns with a screw driver freed it. The F2 error can be reported if water isn't flowing inside the boiler, a sensor sends a high temperature fault to the pcb which then shuts down the boiler with a F2 code. Basically, when water flows it keeps the sensor cool and no fault is reported. If water doesn't flow the sensor gets hot and shuts down the boiler. So, check the pump is free before buying new parts. The boiler hadn't been used for quite a while, this is probably why the pump stuck.
There should be water in it. It is designed to have water in it but it should expel water when it get to a maximum level and empty it down to a min level.
I've been having L2 errors for weeks now and constantly been having to 'Restart', or worse, waiting hours for it to rectify itself. I had a gas engineer come out for 10 minutes and he apparently cleaned the electrodes, but the fault wasn't occuring at the time when he arrived. They wanted £72 for 5 minutes work. Anyway it didn't even fix it, and I've still been getting L2 errors everyday. I tried cleaning out this plastic water container and replaced it and it fired up first time!! (after the boiler has been refusing to work all day). The water didn't look that dirty and I couldn't see any blockages so I have no idea if cleaning it fixed it, or if it was a coincidence that it fired up in that moment. Cheers anyway, we have hot water for tonight. If you have any more tips for L2 errors just in case it breaks again then please share :) One thing I have taken notice of is that the boiler has been failing to ignite with L2 errors more often on the coldest days which might suggest a particular issue? cheers.
Hi Rory, try taking the water container out again and get a bit of hose pipe and push it into where the container exits, blow hard into the hose to check the pipe isn’t blocked. And also check the exit of the black plastic part of the boiler that goes into the top of the water container, make sure that isn’t blocked either. I cleared out a neighbours boiler earlier today and that’s what I had to do to theirs. It started up first time and they were finally able to shower and heat the house. Give it a check to make sure. Hope it helps. No need for another £72 for nothing, it’s such a common problem I don’t know how they missed it???
@@69racer69 Cheers. It wasn't until I assembled it all back together when I realised I should have at least stuck my finger in that black rubber pipe above the water container just to make sure it wasn't blocked. Will keep that in mind! I don't mind paying money for someone to rectify an issue, but they were suggest a trial and error method.. easy to suggest that at £72 ish a call out! I also don't understand how he wouldn't have cleaned this container since its a 5 minute job. Hopefully it stays cold over this next few days so that I can confirm that the boiler is sorted and doesn't throw any more L2 errors.
@@69racer69 hi mate. Having the same problem again with this boiler. It was working fine for a couple weeks again but Since this cold snap it’s shutting down with L2 almost all day everyday. I’ve come to the conclusion it’s 100% related to the outside temperature dropping v low.. any ideas? It’s a combi boiler so it’s igniting all day everyday under usual circumstances, so I don’t believe it’s anything to do with the boiler ‘working harder because it’s colder weather’. I have removed that plastic container and emptied the water a few times which did seem to work a few weeks ago but may have been a coincidence.. or maybe slightly related. My question is, what components of the ignition system could be affected by the cold weather? Cold weather confusing a Sensor? Flu sensor? What about frozen external pipe work? This boiler is a nightmare.
@@rory_scott hi Rory, remove the container again, check that the black plastic above it is clear and not blocked. And then put some hose pipe into where the container drains into and blow down the pipe to see if it’s blocked. Keep blowing hard to see if it clears. That should solve it. Sometime the outside temp can also freeze the pipe on the outside so the water doesn’t drain out. So just ensure all this is clear and your problem will be gone. Let me know how you get on.
Yes there is more you can do. Take the 2 screws out to take the black cover off just above the little tank you just emptied, make sure that isn’t blocked. Also get a short bit of hose pipe and press it against the pipe leading out of the wall, and blow through it to make sure it’s not blocked.
If your boiler goes wrong, ingnore this video and call a gas Safe registered engineer. Repairs on boilers can go fatally wrong if you don't understand what you're doing. It's not a DIY situation
The gas is not being touched, nothing dangerous about it at all. there are people out there that are struggling with money that can benefit from this video.
The appliance is a gas appliance and though technically you are correct that you are not interfering with the gas you are working on a gas appliance.this is what annoys me,we have to go and pass an exam,at our cost,to work as gas safe engineers and people like you encourage people to do these types of repairs.a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.btw hope all that crap didn't settle in your sink trap
@@thomaswatt1658 Well said mate some people just don't get it, he said its nothing to do with gas but its a gas appliance you just taken the cover off and haven a diy work on it lol
This time when you empty it, check the exit pipe to make sure that’s not blocked. You can use a small length of hose pipe, press it against the end and blow through it. Also check where the water enters the chamber through the black plastic, unscrew the 2 screws and make sure there is no blockage there either.
Is the entry into the tank “black part above” is that blocked? Or is the exit pipe under the tank blocked? If all that is clear, then call an engineer is it could be the PCB
Wow you're willing to change the fan and gas valve without doing 26.9 checks. On refit the condensate traps supposed to be filled with water. If the front case is fitted incorrectly. The boiler is no longer room sealed. This could cause natural gas or carbon monoxide to spill into the room. You really shouldn't encourage DIY gas on ideal logics. Sumps fail, injectors block as well as rusting cases. The list goes on........ these are things a trained gas safe registered person looks out for.
I said I had the parts, I only showed the blocked condensate trap and how to clean it out. I never encouraged anyone to do anything that would disturb the gas
irresponsible vid.... 26.9 checks? condensate trap is part of the flue system, gas valve??? WTF?!!! gas valves more often that not need to be setup and adjusted, then test the co/co2 levels and make sure they are correct and SAFE! Hope your ok but there's a reason why you must be gas safe to do this type of work, also illegal to work on combustion side (ie gas valve, fan etc...) not worth the risk just to save money....
