One thing you need to be aware of working either inside a building or even reaching through a doorway is that the boom will flex (think fishing pole) when picking heavier loads. So you need to be careful when setting the loads down, the boom may go up inches when the load comes off. We have a door that has a big crease in it from exactly that issue.
@@jaygraham5407better off to start on petrol ( gas) until up to temp then the vaporiser works much better. I've had 5 LPG ( propane) cars and that's the way they all worked, even on my Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged with a $6500 LPG system on it.
Absolutely correct,I’ll generally tighten my rigging with winch, then use the boom to lift, and balance the deflection, not only for doorways, but especially when lifting a load in a tight area, as your boom deflecting down will make it longer exaggerated the more vertical the boom is, so you might start with hook centered over your load, but by the time it actually lifts it, it will also move it a foot or two away from the crane., I lift mostly finished, polished , carved and sculpted granite, and two pieces just touching each other will be a bad day., I’m guessing the loads they “intend” to lift will be much more forgiving, but there will always be fingers, toes, legs, arms, heads, to be crushed between loads…
What are the chances there have already been "my crane is bigger than your crane" jibes and jokes, and that a "crane off" is going to happen at some stage? Great content. Fix the door. 🙂
I worked at a Terex dealer and I can definitely tell you anything that runs on propane gets gummed up when it sits. Propane leaves a gummy residue on the valves and fuel system components and you've usually gotta get them hot and run the snot out of them for an extended period of time to soften it up and chew it out. Get it piping hot and dump seafoam down the intake while you pin the throttle and moderate the flow of seafoam so the engine doesn't die. Once you're almost out of the can dump the rest in and let up on the throttle so the engine bogs and dies. Let it sit for 45mins to an hour and then start it back up and run it hard. It'll blow all the crap out of it real good. Be warned, the worse they're gummed up the worse it's gonna smoke. That's what we did at the dealer.
Not dissimilar to running on gasoline then. That's very interesting to know. I have experience of FLT's with dual fuel but I didn't know the LPG side could gum up. Thanks for the info 👍
High efficiency gas furnaces don't last as long on propane vs natural gas. The secondary heat exchangers plug up with the gummy stuff mentioned from the impurities in LP gas. Natural gas has fewer impurities and seldom plugs the heat exchanger. On 2 stage high / low fire units, I jumper the unit to only run in high fire mode so that the unit will last longer if converted to LP. It was an awkward conversation when I told the local propane supplier that their office furnace needed to be replaced because they use propane. It takes about 10+ years before they plug up enough to effect operations. Inducer flow eventually drops to the point that the flow switches won't allow ignition. It did seem like propane fork lift engines lasted longer than carbed gasoline fork lift engines. EFI might have eliminated that advantage; oil being washed from cylinder walls by raw gasoline. Catalytic converters on the LP fork lifts actually helped a lot and noticable since they are run indoors.
Get a piece of burlap and soak it some used motor oil and let it sit on the cable reel that will help condition the cable a bit and help out with the rust. I’ve used this method many times to bring back rusty cables that have been sitting for a while and rusted up. I would do this before I changed the cable. As long as it isn’t frayed it should still be good
Personally speaking, I think you and Matt should try to do some collaborations. You seem to be good friends and it would do wonders for your channel as well as his.
FYI - we've found that in the battery packs we've made up for EV conversions that soldering a lug to a 2/0 guage wire, or any wire to a terminal is sometimes a bad idea. The constant vibration can actually weaken the individual solder to strand connection enough to sometimes break the wire connection, thereby reducing the connectivity of the whole wire. And it is always better to crimp since a good crimp makes the wire to connection one homegenous element.
Ran many of these. The Jib folds back and hangs on the main boom After you take the hoist cable off. After the jib is secured you remove the front two pins and move them to other side for storage. Reinstall hoist line, on the main boom sheeve, and now you can operate the main boom and in and out as needed. Picking from the jib will reduce your lift rating. You can not use the block with multiple lines on the Jib. Nice Clean unit. Just needs a little of your Love TGP
Enjoy watching your videos but I'm a old school plumber I might heat the wire up before putting the fitting on call that a cold joint not giving you crap again you and diesel creek are my favorites
12:42 i once asked forklift maintenace/repair shop about propane forklifts - he said the exact same. Propane engines are not so popular and keep their value as diesel, just because people don’t know how to repair them.
Imagine my surprise when I saw you in your Lane jacket. I have worked with Lane Construction for almost 30 years. Matt at Diesel Creek surprised me when he said he had worked for Lane also. Small world, take care and keep up the great videos.
We had a crane exactly like this but it was a Grove, instead of Terex. Seems to me Terex is a much older name and the same company built both. Our's was gasoline, but propane on long unused might be better, but I take that back because your's seems to need warmed up first, a pain. We just ran out and fired our's up with no waiting. Would move really large electric motors. Anything that needed more than man lift. We needed a narrower lighter one but would have been more tippy. We had Grove electric trucks that would have been perfect to lift 300 or 400lbs but just had a trailblazer welder on. I could have designed a small crane but our guys would have torn the hell out of it trying to lift 1000lbs tipping the truck over. I loaded railroad cars with ours tipping it somewhat to reach the other side.
That will definitely be handy lifting heavy workpieces on/off the lathe, and other things like that. It's just small enough to be handy inside the shop.
I had that same issue with a propane fuel generator. I know there is an enrichment circuit that adds more fuel when you're starting it. That would be a good place to look
Hey Sam: Great Video. I think that the progression of the crane was that it originated with Drott as a Drott Carry Lift, then to Broderson, again as a Carry-Lift, then to P&H, eventually named PPC which is what P&H crane division became, then to TEREX when it bought (or picked up) the entire PPC line in the late 2000,s. Still the same basic principals as the original Drott but with modernized controls and hydraulics. Still as you say a pain to work on, but a good purchase anyway. Hope you enjoy it as much as the rest of us enjoy watching your videos. 😃
Your like Matt love you two what have to offer thank you so you live in Seattel Washington if so its so cool why i and my famille are from there as is we live in Phoenix Az
Doesn't HDPE have a higher pressure rating than Teflon? I was born as a war baby during the 1940s so both are rather newfangled to me from my working life. Still, in retirement, I have used them a bit in my basement machine shop where I try to keep my hand in. (Bridgeport mill and a 6” radius by 36” engine lathe and my favourite toy, my Shaublin precision collet lathe. They are all 3 phase machines, and when I moved to my retirement home 20-odd years ago, I needed to put Mitsubishi Frequrol controls on them. The total control of spindle speeds is an absolute joy. The units are so cheap today. My first one was an “evaluation sample” after seeing it at its presentation at the EASTEC show… I was quickly a convert even at their introduction pricing.)
I would fix that damn door first thing , that's just me. I can't stand something in the way .😊 I would say you got a heck off a deal , I'm sure new parts will get the propane going . Good job !
I have a drott carried that Crane, I would like to get in touch with you about Crane questions if possible, do you have an email or a way to contact you? Thanks
FYI, The largest wire needs to go to the battery so all the current does not run thru the thin lug. They are not designed for higher amperage than the wire is rated for. Thickest to thinest then washer than nut.
From experience, soldering battery terminals instead of crimping isn't a great idea. Solder provides a good electrical connection at first, but vibration and thermal cycling will eventually cause it to break loose. As electrical resistance builds in the connection it will heat up and accelerate the failure. In addition, the solder wicks up into the wire and makes it inflexible and brittle. Notice that you won't find any OEM cables soldered. We use a circumferential crimper instead. Solid long-term connection, and faster, too.
Actually laughed out loud watching your spanners getting sucked into the engine 😂 14:45 and I’ve still got an hour left of video…what else could go wrong
Sam, when you start buying cranes you've been spending too much time with Matt @DieselCreek 😅😅😅 You always seem to have a smile on your face and that puts a smile on mine so thank you for the entertainment 👍
Hello Sam, Now Matt will have to find one. Going to the stud mount battery terminals really starts cutting down on electrical issues. I'd like to suggest that you fill the lug with flux, insert the wire, and then crimp the lug. Then you can heat it and feed it solder. It gives a mechanical connection, and the solder is more likely to flow around the wire strands. I've had great success with doing it this way.
I worked in the wire harness/cable manufacturing industry for 25 years as an engineer and Sam created the classic cold soldering joint that we always avoided! We tinned the wire first and crimped the connections on everything from 30 AWG to 3/0 AWG and then crimped it. On the larger lugs some customers specified that they have solder added after crimping for extra strength and to inhibit corrosion. I love the crane and Matt is definitely going to want one!
nah, Matt has that overhead gantry... if he ever gets it put up! Sam may have to take this to help with that process since Matt has a habit of buying the largest cranes he can find...
Those carry cranes are so handy working in low, tight spaces, especially for riggers. Great, interesting content. Now your wife knows what to get you for Xmas. Hint, its in spray cans, truckers love the smell of it and it burns easily. Have a nice day.
The jib might be useful for setting rafters or dropping trees, but for the most part the main extension boom would work for most jobs. I think the Groves and JBL's etc. use Teflon (Or maybe Nylon) sliders? Also, it might not be too difficult to rig up about 4 of those 40kg high torque 180 degree RC servos for the main controls and then just pick up a radio controller and transmitter kit?
When that roll of wrenches got sucked into that fan. I thought boy Sam that's what you get for being human. Sure glad I've never done anything like that. Oh wait I'm human too. LMAO 🤣😂
Sam from what you had shown about that sparkplug you pulled . Your starting problem mite be there if all the plugs are gapped that wide. All so you mite want to check the gap on the point's.
When cracking you can can pull the jacks for the outriggers up or any hydraulic component as long as the pump is engaged, but it'll be slow. ASK ME HOW I KNOW LOL
Crazy for unloading that thing in an area that could be damaged. IE garage doorway, and even crazier for testing it indoors, I once had a solenoid stick and a stump grinder ripped itself to pieces. But it all worked out, minimise risk !
The coolant level is very important to the vaporizer in most systems I've worked with. The coolant is what helps add the heat to help vaporize the LP and keep it idling smoothly. Looks like a sweet toy. I wan to find one of those plug in remote controls for that winch on your trailer. Ding DANG, I need one for my winches.
If you use a step bit when trying to upsize those terminal ends, they are much more forgiving. Less likely to grab and rip. Cool crane for sure. Looks almost identical to Cutting Edge Engineering’s Franna crane. Oh…and check out Ranger remote control systems for hydraulics. You can add them on to existing setups. There appear to be several companies and types out there. Good luck!!.
Hilarious, I just picked up a crane just like this from the airport, straight to scrap ! (nope its in my shed mate ) its not worth the rebuild retesting process they claim
