Look What A Magnet Did To My Motor! 

I wasted my time watching this video. I read the comments and that made me happy again.

I absolutely love Project Farm, cool to see someone bring him up like that!

12:05 your welcome

The good thing about Project Farm is that he is to the point and the video is about what the title says.

Just a thought on the drain plug extra magnet. You should check it against the polarity of the tip magnet so that they are not opposing each other, so that the north or south fields are both pointing in the same direction. My Toyota Tundra transmission has rare earth magnets in the transmission drain pan that get cleaned when i change the filter, they are just held in place with their own magnetism. You could place a large rare earth magnet on the outside of your oil drain pan and check it when you check your oil pump screen, or pull it off right before you drain your oil.

I looked to see what a magnet did to his motor. A magnet did NOTHING to his motor.

I fill my side mounted filters a tad bit. The filter soaks up the majority and doesn’t spill when I put it on. Little is better than nothing in my opinion.

Also, after using a “filter mag,” they cut open the filter. Pretty amazing what they see what it traps

Since I started using “filtermags” on my vehicles, I no longer have that small amount of “debris” on my drain plug magnets.

Wow. I came for the suspense. I stayed for the bad advice and obvious lack of good experience.

Automatic transmission fail incoming boys!

Put a large magnet on the base of your oil filter.Any steel that gets in is trapped even if the filter by-passed for any reason.

I appreciate the videos. I have a 2003 Yukon XL w/ 230K miles and going strong. I also love Project Farm and I am curious to see how this additive works for you.

Those oil additives that coat you engine internals are also coating (and clogging) the filter and pick-up screen. We learned that back in the 90s with the whole Slick 50 craze. In a lot of cases manufacturers declined warranty repair if it was found they had been used.

You can prefill those horizontal filters, just don't completely fill them. Fill them a bit, let the media soak up the oil, then add a bit more. I do this on my motorcycle and the low oil pressure light goes out immediately compared to putting a dry filter on and having to wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build.

Keep on making these videos, Jimmy. Always entertaining and informative. I have a 05 AVALANCHE with a 5.3. It always helps to see some try out something first.

That was my invention with the magnets on the oil filter. I should have patented that when I turn 18, I was 15 and just seeing all these magnets that were in the trash from speakers, back in the day the bolt was magnetic but I said why not at the filter? They did stop the magnets from some factory bolts. I would also use one on my Transmission pan, great video brought back some great videos. The answer to oil in the filter even sideways , you should buy a pre luber, once you turn the key it takes the oil from the bottom of the oil pan and it lubes the motor before you start. Another great idea to keep that engine living longer, a inline oil cooler, to keep the engine oil cooler.

never put Additives in your engine

I have a side mount oil filter, I always fill it right up and let sit for at least 30 minutes, then I hold filter horizontal pouring excess oil into oil drum while very slowly rotating. Then install it immediately with old oil already fully drained and drain plug also already torqued to spec.

My 2002 S10 has a side mount filter too..what I do is put just enough oil in the new filter to coat the inside without spilling out while installing it...👍

If you need to add an oil additive, then you need to use a different brand of oil.

What he's doing actually makes sense. Using good oil. Adding an oil additive that works and installing a magnetized drain plug. What do you do for your engine?

Rare earth (ie neodymium) magnets begin losing magntism at 80C.

I use AMSOIL and never have any metal on my magnets and never need to use additive and an oil change last me a few years to boot! that WIX-XP is a top notch filter better than the filter you replaced it with.

The oil will not pour out "completely" with a horizontal filter. Some stays between the media and the can, held in by the anti drain back valve. Some is better than just air.

Great video .Great video I have always used brand name oils. Delo,shell, mobil , and lots of others. Ran a construction company with cat, hitachi detroit engines. Started back in the early seventies, had dozens of old and new pieces of machinery also fords , chevies and dodge pickups. Never used magnets or oil additives and never had engine premature wear. Back in the early seventies oil was a single grade . 10 weight 20 weight and 30 for the summer. Did the recommended change intervals . I'm in my mid seventies now and the message you are sending is wrong . This is my opinion based on experience . The most critical reason cars , trucks or any piece of equipment that had gas or diesel engines gave any trouble was operator abuse, not the lack of additives to the oil. Good oil, regular fuel and air filters , also changed the coolant when needed.

yes sounds just like mine with 241k miles on it! Nice oil change jimmy!

Motorkote is some good stuff! Your transmission sounds like it has varnish build-up.... transx is an excellent additive for your problem. In most cases it will fix a sticky Transmission in only one or two blocks of driving.

I always buy the magnetic drain plugs for my vehicles. When it comes to oil in the filter, I do it no matter the direction. If you pour some in there, the filter will absorb it.

I love project farm. Very informative and interesting content!

My 99 Chevy Silverado used to kick hard into 2nd gear when it was hot. I checked the transmission fluid level and saw it was a few quarts overfull. (I bought it used and it evidently came that way from the dealership I bought it from. I never added any fluid to it). I siphoned 2 1/2 quarts out of the transmission to get it back into the operating range and after that, the hard shift stopped. It's a smooth transition into each gear now.

On the matter of priming the filter, look at it. If there is an anti flow back valve, fill it. Even if it mounts upside down, you won't lose it all. The idea,is to minimize the effect of a dry start.

2 THUMBS DOWN FOR YOUR CLICK BAIT TITLE. NOT COOL MAN........NOT COOL AT ALL. DON'T WASTE VIEWER'S TIME LIKE THAT. ALSO A GREAT WAY TO LOSE RESPECT.

We use the Hastings filters everyday at work Hastings makes a great filter. We have never had any issues and are just good quality over all.

Project Farm is AWESOME!!!! Did you get more MPG's?

My 99 suburban with the 5.7 vortec had the ticking noise. I was told its normal for high miles.

Interesting & well done video. When will you be coming out with the filter tear down?

The 5.3 in my 2014 Silverado was a bit noisy as well. I think it’s GM’s version of the Mopar Hemi tic? Great video!

You might get slipping in transmission, there are friction plates that need to grip in order to shift gears.

Here I am waiting for the magnet video...

Good idea for the drain plug magnet, but any metal pieces caught by the threads on the plug will be scraped off by the oil pan threads when you remove the plug, unless that tiny magnet at the tip catches them...

I watch Tod on Project Farm all the time. He's got an awesome channel

A good way to prime your oil system is to pull your fuel fuse or ignition control connections then turn the motor over for 10 seconds and repeat for another 10 seconds. This is more important to do with turbocharged vehicles due to all the extra piping!

The ticking is your fuel injectors, normal. Some of the lifters in the LS motors tick as well which is normal. You are probably feeling the firm down shift into second. That is actually a good sign that your trans is healthy and not slipping. Also it will be more pronounced in a 4wd vehicle with a transfer case. I would not add the motorkote to the trans as it may mess up the paper material in the clutch pack. I only use lubeguard red in my 4l60 E.

If you’re using a premium full synthetic oil you DON’T NEED any additional additives. Also…you CAN pre fill (or mostly fill) a horizontal filter if you’re quick to spin it on. .. I do it all the time and don’t loose any oil.(maybe loose a tiny bit sometimes)

In colder temps try to find a motorcraft filter that will fit or a filter with a silicone drain back valve, Hastings filters use rubber and can cause a cold start tick after 100 miles or more, silicone drain back is critical ē in temperatures lower than 50 degrees

i tried KY lubricant in my oil. she really found her groove.

It's possible to install a prefilled-oil filter and mounted horizontally w/o spilling the oil. I've done it many times w/ my x's Mitsubishi Galant

It was good to see the material collected on the magnet. I use magnets. The magnets collect different amounts of metal depending on the car its in. Even a 2021 vehicle had some material on the magnet.

Let make those transmission clutches as slippery as possible 🤣🤪

I love that guy project farm , nobody like him .

If you read your owner's manual, you'll see that the manufacturer does not recommend any oil additives but does recommend a good quality oil, like Mobil 1 or any other quality full synthetic oil as long as it is the listed viscosity. That should be all that your engine needs, although I would use Mobil 1 in the extended performance formula even though I don't agree with extending the oil drain interval above the manufacturer's recommendation. Back in the '70s when synthetic auto oil first came out, there were many of these miracle oil additives for sale. The first 2 synthetic oils for sale to the public were Mobil 1 and Amsoil. A co-worker of mine bought a brand new Oldsmobile Toronado when they first came out. Another coworker was also an Amsoil dealer and he sold the new Toronado owner some Amsoil for his first oil change. The Amsoil dealer also sold many other company's additives. There was one additive that guaranteed to make your engine run better because it contained small particles of Teflon in it. The guy did his first oil change with the Amsoil and also fell for the benefits of the Teflon additive. He added the additive and drove his new car for a while. After a couple of months, his new Toronado engine started making clicking engine noises. He took it to the dealer service dept. under warranty. They found all his oil return holes clogged with the Teflon particles causing oil starvation. The oil additive advertised that the Teflon particles were small and would not affect engine operation in any way. They had to flush his entire 2-month-old engine to get rid of all the Teflon particles. This additive almost caused irreversible engine damage to his new car engine but he caught it early enough. This is why I will never use an oil additive but will use a high-quality full synthetic oil, instead. DO YOU FEEL LUCKY?

the ticking is CSK. COLD START KNOCK. piston slap to be more precise. after the pistons warm up they grow slightly and the slap goes away.you can use a top end carbon cleaner and it may get rid of your CSK. OUR 2003 gmc 5.3 truck never did it and had 140k. i recommend using lucas upper cylinder lubricant every time you fill up.

Remember a product called Slick 50? It was all the rage back in the day, now motor oil has plenty of added chemicals so no additives are needed. I respect Project Farm as well, but Scotty Kilmer says don't waste your money, so I don't.

On your 2003 suburban you should get switchback leds for the front. They're white when your headlights are on and then amber when turn signals come on. They look great! You should check them out. I bought partsam led switchbacks for $14 on amazon

I live in Oregon and it rains a lot.I use Mobil 1 also and had no sludge or build up in my engine. I started using Motorkote about 60k ago . I kept getting a bunch of Tan whipped cream looking crap on my oil cap , checked my antifreeze level everytime I drove , No cracked block or head gasket ...checked cap, had same thing on underside of oil cap. Shook it off and wiped again.I thought it was moisture in my oil which made it foam. I went through this crap off and on for months. Changed my oil after 1500 cuz it happened again. I then had a hunch it might be the motorkote. I went deep in the net for info on motorkote.....I found out it works great on taxis and big rigs , because they run constantly , they burn all moisture away. Its the motorkote that makes it foam, found out from several sources, not just a couple. changed my oil 4x in 10000 miles. Its been rainy now for 3 months. And what do you know. NO MORE SLUDGE BUILD UP OR FOAM...And the build up I got from this is finally starting to go away. I shine a flash light down the hole where the oil cap is and can see the whole inside front ,timing chain and pulley shaft area.... . That shit will ruin your engine. Do some major research , another thing, it produces chlorinated paraffins , which makes your oil acidic , and start corroding parts in the engine.I live way out in the country and when I do drive, Its at least 20 miles on the engine before I shut it off , Plenty of time to heat up to optimal operating temp. But the foam doesn't flow anymore to cycle through the engine to evaporate the existing moisture....Bottom line is it sucks unless constantly running. If you don't take my word for it , Do 15 minutes on google on Motorkote and see for yourself.

You should never use a friction modifier in an automatic transmission!

Hastings and Baldwin filters are phenomenal; use them with confidence! They're both built under the same house of clarcor.

My oil filter faces vertically, but I still don't fill it with fluid. Probably, also, because the opening faces the ground...

I use motorkote, too, but always add slightly oil less to allow for the additive so I don't overfill. BTW: The MPG in my 2000 Hyundai went from about 34 to 41 MPG. That alone pays for the MotorKote.

I used to use old speaker magnets on my race car engines! took some epoxy, cleaned the paint off on the side of the pan, the magnets stick, epoxy made them stay where i put them. on a dirt car, the pan sticks close to the track, not much clearance, so stuckem on the side of the steel pans. worked well, all the parts that fell into the oil was on that side of the pan.

If the motorkote made any meaningful difference then why wouldn't oil manufacturers already include it in the oil?

So if i replace an oil filter thats filled with oil with one filled with oil it will cause a problem?

Cool videos, I enjoy watching!

Fram Ultra filter and mobile 1 synthetic oil in all my vehicles. I sleep well at night and my magnets are clean at next change.

kinda the same as Archoil ? I'm not so sure about adding it to the trans.. as it could cause issues with the torque converter

I always love your videos and agree with your advice. Only variation in my program is I like Amsoil and I use 2 filters per oil change with use of oil analysis. The test data shows that Amsoil is a little better oil. Oils lubricity factor increase as it’s used so, I feel Amsoil also has a superior oil change interval. Just my 2 cents, opinions very significantly. Important thing is to use quality oil and filter according to recommended oil changes.

I just cleaned my maf sensor and fixed hard shifting with my 4l60e. Give it a try.

I use bestline and it WORKS great 200k on mine still going strong!

I use “filter mag.” They are expensive but worth the cost My Magnetic drain plug is “clean” when doing an oil change Check them out on RU-vid

Interesting product, I’ll be curious to see the results. I think it’s time to post a new vlog to the Ferris and Jimmy channel as it’s been awhile! Peace out!

How do you magnetize a cartridge filter?

What did you do to fix the tic in 5.3 vortec?

Instead of adding a rare earth magnet to your drain plug, u should place it on the oil filter, therefore removing any ferrous material when you change the filter.

I flush my engine with Motor Medic at every oil change which keeps the 5.3 tick from appearing. Moreover, Rislone will completely eliminate your lifter tick in just a matter of minutes. The difference in NVH is stark!

Motorkote, when applied to head, will regrow hair if you wear the magnetic helmet. It also increases libido when applied directly.

Great job! Your right project farm rules!

You mentioned that ticken noise in the vortec 5.3 but then you went off on the oil filter what about the ticking noise

I'm a subscriber to "Project Farm" and advise folks to check his channel out. He goes to amazing lengths to prove and disprove the claims of a variety of mechanical and automotive products as well as some that may be more considered as consumer products. As for "Hastings", they've been an automotive parts and additive manufacturer since the beginning of automotive time. After seeing that rare earth magnet and the fact that it has completely magnetized the drain plug, I have an issue that you may have now magnetized an area of the pan around the plug which makes the ability to remove those ferrous deposits next to impossible. In my opinion, the original magnet that's on the end of that drain plug is entirely sufficient for it's intended use.

You can use Shell Helix Ultra 0W-40 instead using 5W-30 + oil additive.

For that ticking noise, I'm not an expert, but from what I've read around the interwebs it's related to parts sticking due to carbon buildup. I used Marvel Mystery oil (in gas tank and as replacement to motor oil where I removed ~1 quart of motor oil and put in 1 quart of MM). After 2-3 weeks (half a tank) the ticking had audibly reduced a lot. Previously I could hear it inside the cabin, now I can't hear it inside the cabin and have to pop the hood to hear it at all. The engine sounds MUCH smoother.

the hard second may be from a broken buffer spring if the tans use them (automatic ones), some people use to remove them so they feel more the shift.

You should look at getting a Gold Plug drain plug. They have rare Earth magnets on the tip. I've also though about putting some of those type of magnets on the bottom of the oil pan. And then when I go to drain the oil, I'd just remove those magnets and let the magnetic particles flow out.

The Ferrous dust is probably timing chain & sprockets. It would be interesting to see the inside of that '95 oil pan. The ticking or clicking is most likely exhaust manifold leaks; smoke test to be sure. Todd at Project Farm is awesome, he always gives tested products a fair review.

Then, if your oil filter screws on vertically with the open end down, obviously do not pre fill the filter with oil. :)

That ticking sound are you're lifters failing already

According to Amsoil wear tests, Mobile 1 is the 4th best synthetic...Amsoil coming in first.

I wasn't expecting a commercial. Click baiting sucks. You just made it onto the naughty list!

Great stuff! People have tested this stuff....brutally tested! And it holds up when others dont come close!

NEVER use any additives like that. Look how slick 50 turned out

why would you upload this to say "I dont have time to do it in this video" click bate bs

Bro, you need to get Votex (not vortex) magnetic drain plugs from Amazon. Made in Wisconsin. I have used the kind you have and put several in. I finally tried a different kind and man was I so enamored that I bought 2, and I am about to buy 2 more for manual Transmission.

i get magnets at the hardware store for size to stick on the bottom of the oil pan and around the oil filter,also change oil filter twice for every oil change,its cheaper than oil

Enjoyed the video.... SUBSCRIBED!

Will adding an additive like MotorKote before the warranty runs out a good idea?

Yes! My 5.3 vortec in my 04 trailblazer makes the same ticking noise. Probably just injectors or rockets or lifters

A magnet and probably a larger one would be preferred could take metal particles/shavings away from engine parts and that would have some benefit. But the real problem of abrasion to the engine parts comes from anything that gets past the air filter and carbon deposit that don't get burned and go out the exhaust pipes, but rather stay in the engine cylinders valves Etc and mix in with the oil that circulate like liquid sandpaper. I like the idea of putting a strong magnet for ferrous metal particulates. But changing your oil often will be a whole lot more beneficial to your engine to prevent damage and get two or three hundred thousand miles or more. Make sure you have clean air filter that you can see light through it. I had a girlfriend who worked on the golf course in Virginia and they would change the oil and filter on the rideable mowers every 5 hours because of the sand that would get past the air filters. That was years ago, but I still found that interesting.

Project Farm is THE most dry guy out there... but he has the best tests done by not a scientific shop! Great learning!

I'm going to look to get one of those magnets and put them on the fill plug that goes into my rear differential.

Hastings filters are a solid Commercial grade filter for tractor trailer originally so you can bet they will hold up to 5-10-w-30 , they can filter 15-40 for 30,000 miles plus, and the membrane is thicker than a puralator or a fram, Use with confidence, 30 yrs exp.