I was thinking about getting a 4s capable motor myself. Not because I want to run this RC on 4s but just to keep the overall temps down. When I ran mine a few days ago (first run) I noticed the motor seemed to be a bit hot. I only run it on 2s at the time being and actually have no interest in running even a 3s, but a better motor would be a lot more efficient. Yeah, I could change out the pinion but I am good with the speed on 2s. I don't feel like it would do well with the way I use it if it were slower. That's why I've got more interest in a stronger motor. The receiver box is also I was thinking about doing, but have had no intention of running it in water. Dirt is easy to fend off with just a simple mud shield. Definitely fits a lot better than I would have thought though. The chassis space is pretty limited on this RC and for good reason. Also I noticed you have the aluminum upgraded chassis braces, also something I have on my hit list (even have it in my wish list on eBay). Have you had any issues with the braces or are you just eliminating a potential for a bent chassis or a breakage? When I ran it the other day, I had popped a shock rod end off as well and the spring and perch came out. I did find both, but the perch was a little more hard to find in the grass. I've ordered parts and got them in today, all the plastic parts for the shocks. I just needed the rod end, but the perches are definitely a good thing to have on hand. If I have that problem multiple times, I will probably get myself some Proline pro spec shocks. Might get them regardless, but if the shock rod end popping off becomes a problematic area, I'll do the shocks sooner than later. As far as why the shock rod end popped off in the first place was my fault. The DB Pro jumps further than anticipated and when I jumped it this one time, it ended up still in the air behind a big tree. Couldn't see it to correct it and when I did see it, it was cartwheeling. I'm giving the shock rod end the benefit of the doubt and blaming it on how I landed. Like I said though, if it becomes a problem, I'll change them out. All said, this thing is a great little RC. I'm used to 1/10 (closer to 1/8 scale trucks, Revo and Summit) or larger. This little buggy is going to take some getting used to but I like it. I was pretty rough on it and it held up well (wouldn't really consider the shock rod end a durability issue). I jumped it quite a few times off of different jumps and it flew through the air very flat. Very controllable in the air as well if it gets crossed up. With the problem I had, it was more like wrong place at the wrong time. I also really like the look of the DB Pro and the parts it's got on it are quite substantial for it's size. I would recommend it to a friend and would probably buy another.
Lane Waite the rod end a shock rod ends plastic has changed since the TEN SCTE and 2.0. Back in those days I never had issues with rod ends. If I break them I’m going with replacement parts from the TLR SCTE 2.0.
@@krlaturn I don't know anything about the SCTE 2.0, but I'm assuming the rod ends are bigger, thicker, stronger? Is the shock shaft the same size? I'm guessing it is if you would be using it, but you might have different shocks at this point in time. Either way, we'll see what happens as this breakage might be a never again kind of deal.
Lane Waite most all of the parts from the SCTE are a direct fit for the Tenacity. But the plastics for the SCTE were from Team Losi’s Racing department (TLR).
Love your Tenacity pro buddy. I did a similar thing with my Losi SCTE, Troy Lee Designs, it has a very similar layout to your Tenacity. It also has a 4s capable stock esc, but a 3s motor, which I swapped out for a nice 1/8, i beleive the 2 rigs would be very evenly matched, it handles and drives beautifully
Mitch Mckenzie yes the SCTE runs great with a 4s system! Below is an old video I did many years ago of my Losi Ten SCTE ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8u59QPUOsiU.html
Bulletproof RC haha thanks Keith i probably will i just want to get the Black Rhino Baja Rey first to go with the King Shocks version i have then it’ll be DB Pro time.
Hi Keith love your videos and info on the DB Pro. Could you provide me your thoughts/expertise on running 2.8 tires on this 4S package you've mentioned. Would I need hex extenders etc ? Do you think there would be over heating issues with this tire set up ? Any other thoughts on additional parts or preferred set up you would do to have a 2.8 tire dependable DB buggy. I do a lot of grass ripping with my son(Senton 3S). I haven't bought the DB Pro yet still weighing all the options out there. I too am a old rc10 Cadillac..T4..Blackfoot guy :) appreciate your time and help with my questions...Jeff
Bass Camo thx for watching and feedback! I think 2.8’s would do fine! The stock wheels are zero offset and most 2.8’s have a bit of offset so I’d imagine it would widen the track width some. Using a 2400kv on 4s with a 14t pinion is a very cool and efficient power! I could definitely gear up with the stock wheels! But you could gear down if the added outside diameter created heat. 👍🏻
Don't expect your driveline components to last very long with hard use. All the dogbones will get sloppy and the 4 inboard differential cups will wear much quicker and bearing maintenance/replace.
Getting thru Life thx 4 the heads up, but I’m very familiar with the Losi TEN platform. This is my sixth one! I’m not concerned with the wear and tear on the drivetrain. If I wear it out I’ll just make it better with TLR stuff. All of the parts are compatible with TLR SCTE hardened steel outdrives.
@@krlaturn I wasn't trying to put you down, critize your decision or question your rc knowledge. I was just commenting that a side effect of adding a bigger batt and motor adds more cost because of an increase in maintenance. For me personally, $500 is a lot to spend on a recreational toy and not everyone can just run out and spend 100's of more dollara on an already expensive hobby. Hey, I dig what your doing with this platform and your point of view where I clicked liked on all your vids I watched. I will be getting this rc vehicle when they come back instock plus a better steering servo, rear losi scte rear mud guards, skid plates and a sealed reciever box. I did these same things to my 1/8 SC8e back in 2011. flic.kr/s/aHsjuaJr9S
Getting thru Life I understand my friend! It’s an expensive hobby for certain. I didn’t take your comment negatively. My apologies if my response seemed that way. Sometimes typing words doesn’t relay proper tone. I appreciate your support and comments!
Getting thru Life I was just saying that I’ve been down this road with the TEN SCTE and it will actually hold up running 6s with the TLR outdrives. And they are not that expensive to change out.
Awesome vid. How is the 4s holding up after all these months? I've done pretty much what you've done, including the aluminum, hardened and lightened out drives, stronger drive shafts, aluminum rear diff bearing cups, servo, bellcrank bearings, proline badlands. Love this thing.
Joshua Barr mine is holding up fine. A little wear on my outdrives but nothing major. I did replace all of my rod ends with TLR SCTE 3.0 rod ends. The stock ones were breaking and collapsing on the treads of the turnbuckles. And my front cvds are slightly bent from all the jumping. But it’s one tough rig!
Which motor are you running like what model? Going to order a tp 3650 soon in 2350kv want to hear about your motor first though. These are great buggies but my stock motor gets too hot, imo needed an 1/8 scale motor from the start. Great channel btw and love your methodical approach to rc.
Michael Regan my apologies. I didn’t get this message notification. Here is a link to the motor I chose. I went with the 2400kv version. www.rcjuice.com/leopard-3670-v2-4-pole-brushless-sensorless-motor-for-1-10-lightweight-1-8.html
@@krlaturn No problem same thing happens to me with the notifications lol, I ended up also going with the leopard 3670 2400kv, on 4s it is a huge improvement over the stock motor. Glad I saw this video!
Pat Farrell here is a link. The 2400kv like I got are out of stock. The 2000kv is in stock. www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/leopard-3670-v2-4-pole-brushless-sensorless-motor-for-1-10-lightweight-1-8.html
How about some videos of this thing on Forrest I love the video is great I appreciate the information show me what she can do I just bought one and she sitting on my dashboard
Freedom4all speed is just voltage + kv + gear ratio. But take it from me, 70mph is all you want to go with this chassis! I had an SCTE that I ran on 6s with a cen Colossus motor. I hit 79mph and the rear input bearing in the rear bulkhead exploded and melted the rear gearbox. I replaced all with new parts and it done it a 2nd time when I hit 78mph. The DB uses the same parts as the SCTE btw👍🏻
I don't hit top speed very often, mostly use the available power to keep it level while ripping along the beach. When I hit small jumps at 60+ it tends to parachute like a SC truck. With 3.2 rpm wheels and proline Badland mx28s I have amazing control. It may only be 2 or 3 feet off the ground, but fly's about 60-80 feet, sometimes more.
I was doing some research on the new db pro, and noticed a lot of the same part numbers. Have you checked your outdrives at the front and rear diffs? Especially the rear!! Very soft metal, mine wore out in about 2-3 weeks. Noticed odd noises and did an inspection, to find severely worn rear outdrives.
Freedom4all mine are holding so far. But it’s pretty cheap to get TLR SCTE hardened outdrives when the time comes. Guess they had to cut corners somewhere to be able to give us the aluminum upgrades and better electronics
I bought a new tenacity sct brushed from towerhobbies...it’s the same as the new one as you have...I was buying it to put a castle 2400 on 4s...I just feel like the drivetrain will hold up as I heard it’s bulletproof due to the diffs having 4 spider gears in them now....so how has yours held up my guy is what I wanna know...I might even go 6s later ...lol but what do you think although it’s spiral cut and I hear they are also better than straight cut.
acourtney lawson mine is holding up good. The Tenacity uses the same diffs that are in the TLR SCTE trucks. Typically however the RTR versions have softer outdrives than the TLR stuff. When my outdrives get pretty worn I’m going to replace them with the TLR hardened ones.
Rattlecan OnLexan holding up strong! Had to replace the rod ends with TLR SCTE 3.0 rod ends. Stock ones were collapsing on the treads of the turnbuckles from jumping too hard. But this is a beast!
@@krlaturn just finished putting 4s motor in it. Also did the reciever box upgrade. One other thing I did was to snip a little bit of the body so it would stop getting caught on the battery when closing it. I appreciate you for making this video
I put the hardened outdrives in mine. They last longer but the rear driveshafts got destroyed in no time on 3s. Having to rebuild the rear drivetrain again. Mine just doesnt seem to hold up well at all even on just 3s. I bought the Tekno drive cups/shafts hopefully they last longer. If not im gonna go to 2s. Are you using stock driveshafts?!
I notice some wear on the rear outdrives but not excessive. I ran 4s for a while but went back to 3s. But the dB pro is not my only Rc. I cycle through several, so my dB may not get the kind of use yours does. I run about three battery cycles through mine about once a month. I do run it hard and it has held up great! But maybe I just haven’t run the amount of scale miles that you have. I think it’s a great RC! I hate to hear you are having issues brother!
@@krlaturn Its one of my favorite rcs and does get a good bit of use. I think the drive shafts would probably still be fine if I didnt install the hardened outdrives. The stock outdrives are really soft for some reason.
@@krlaturn Hi Sir...been reading ALL these messages, good read. However I was sold on going 4S and then I hit this post you made going back to 3S. On 3S I have all the Tekno outdrives, driveshafts, etc so all the soft metal is gone. I do have one of those power Game Changer fans on the motor which keeps it cool compared to before. But I want a bit more in speed but not top end. Thinking about staying 3S run it on 17T over the stock 15T give me the little bump I ma looking for, but I know the fan will be important that runs on a separate 3S battery for the fan. I do have a 3674 2650kv motor I bought for it months back but on 3S it would be slower on that motor I think...on 4S and 17T it will be fast with that motor. Really interested in your post at going back to 3S I do have lots of RCs not my only one but 3S not bad it is fast on 3S just gets hot but I do have the fan. Since you are back to 3S I assume this is the same motor 2400kv? Did you change the pinion for 3S to gear up? Why you go back. Thx Sir
@@krlaturn OK, thanks. Is it a better choice with more autonomy than 3150kv and 3s (on old tenacity 3800kv 3s) ? The weight in addition to the 4s is not a problem ?
Thomas R 74 it’s important to check the esc limits. I Believe the tenacity esc will only do 3000kv or less on 4s. I wouldn’t go above 2500kv with 4s personally.
@@krlaturn it's dynamite 130A ESC: Motor Type 2S Li-Po up to 6000Kv; 3S Li-Po up to 4000Kv; 4S Li-Po up to 3000Kv. It will be good for the same 4s configuration. Do you think a cheap 2600kv motor will be ok, whis 11T ?
