This comment may only apply to poly bushings -- haven't tried it with original-style rubber. No matter how much I compressed the poly bushing with the link on the ARB, even with copious amounts of silicon grease, the bushing would not slide into the link. The poor bushing was absolutely squished. I finally concluded that the annular gap between the ARB and the ID of the link, where the "hour glass" shape of the link tapers to its minimum diameter, was jsut too small. At this point I figured there was nothing to lose, so I pulled the bushing and link off of the ARB. The bushing pressed right into the link with the help of a big C clamp. I was concerned that forcing the bushing over the flattened end of the ARB would destroy the bushing, but such was not the case. Lots of silicon grease, some firm pressure, and several taps with a sledge hammer and wood block moved the link and bushing right over the flat. There appears to be no damage to the bushing -- it's nice and tight. That poly is tough stuff.
Ian a little credit for pushing through with a reasonable home grown solution well done. To all viewers the BIG MISTAKE - do not use WD-40 on rubber parts you can greatly shorten the life of the rubber. Rubber and plastics reach for Silicone Spray and Silicone grease for rubber and polyurethane bushing.
It's a fair effort I suppose, but I'll stick to what I've always done: clamp the roll bar in a vice, install the bush in the drop link, drop the bush & drop link in a cup of boiling water to soften the rubber, squidge plenty of KY jelly onto it & charge at the roll bar with it from the other side of the workshop, pushing & rotating the drop link as you go. Always worked for me.
Oh dear, I was shouting at you to reverse one of the Irvine clamps, so you could get your full hand round each pair of grips without trying to squeeze with just you fingers - frustration!!!!!!
