***this is just the tip of the wiring and electrical iceberg, I have much MUCH more to say about this with more tips and tricks forthcoming. OH and dont run AC and DC lines parallel ;) forgot to mention that**
@@ChuckCassadyYT thanks for confirming, thought so but wanted to be sure. Very thankful for all this great content, I am taking copious notes for my bus build!
@@rossallen738 from my research so far, it seems to be a concern of voltage inference whereby the DC voltage affects the AC conductor which is supposed to oscillate around 0 volts axis. I'm not an electrician, just sharing what I've surmised following chuck's comment 🙂
1) 2:49 All wire for AC should be Use ‘’Anchor’ 12-3 marine stranded wire for all AC stuff. Marine wire is less prone to corrosion. Corrosion causes resistance which means wires heating up which could cause a fire. 12-3 will handle 20 amps which is even good for mini splits. 2) Stranded wire has lotsa little wires so requires ferrules at the ends. (Like I did with the battery cables on my boat.) 3) 3:36 He uses 10-3 for shore power because it can handle 30 amps. AC wire has 3 conductors, so 10-3 or 12-3, etc. 4) 4:28 DC wire has 2 conductors. He uses 6-2 coming off of the solar on the roof. 5) Use 18-2 for interior lights. 6) 6:55 For stuff like data lines and backup cameras, use the cables that come with the equipment. 7) 8:05 Junction box’s and terminals and places wires end up and how they are affixed to the vehicle: He uses blue box’s because they aren’t too deep and can take many kinds of face plates and are cheap and work for both AC and DC. He uses deep blue box’s for exterior outlets. He uses metal box’s for stuff outside like for a mini split. 8) 10:10 He uses solar entry glands for outside for exterior wire for solar. 9) 10:39 For shore power outlets he uses stainless steel Marineco because they last longer than the plastic ones and look better. 10) 11:09. For outdoor AC outlets for tools, lights, boom box’s, etc., he uses these 15 amp outlets. 11) 13:43 He uses Teks Sharp Point Lath Screws to attach box’s to framing. 12) 14:01 Use clamp connectors at the knockouts of the boxes to take the strain off of the wires as you feed the wire. 13) Use zip ties to secure wires along the way. 14) 14:37 He uses 3M foam connectors with a hole for zip ties to go into. 15) 14:50 He uses gorilla tape to hold wires until the foam insulation cures. 16) 15:14 He uses split wire looms to protect wires in places that they can be chafed inside and outside. 17) 15:38 Use 4 gauge wire connected directly to the alternator for alternator charging. ((Could be as high as 900 watts.) This minimizes voltage drop. 18) 16:33 Tools: Good wire cutters, screwdriver, sharpie, drill and screw gun. (What about putting the ferrules on? Could take to West Marine.) 19) 16:56 He doesn’t use conduit because his wires will be encased in spray foam insulation. He suggests that you could use conduit when usingfoam sheets though. He does use wire loom in areas where the wires are on metal or go through holes in metal. 20) 18:28 Watch steps for wiring. 21) 24:00. Watch to see what he says about avoiding screwing into wires later.
As a DIY'er converting a box truck, these tips/tricks have infinitely been more helpful and applicable to my build than a lot of videos out there. Thank you!
Recently purchased a 2001 International bus and going to start self converting it this summer so I’m very thankful that you go into such depth in your videos and provide your expertise tips and tricks. Electrical is my biggest stressor. Thank you!
Thanks for the good tips and tricks Chuck! Didn't know about the trailer wire solution to replace the mess of wires. Then run it under chair rails, brilliant!
This video got another subscriber. Great work! Attention to detail, combined with a few error’s lessons made this a very solid list of products, practices, procedures, and documentation. Super solid video!
Thank you Chuck! My head hurts trying to comprehend all this information! However, I’m this medium I can watch and rewatch as often as needed! Essential and comprehensive!! Thank you again!
A quick warning: There's a lot of "CCA" wire out there, which is copper clad aluminum. It does not carry power the same way that real copper does! But a lot of online vendors conveniently forget to say that.
Love it! 👌Perhaps some dielectric grease for external wiring connections as well. I used to wrap my outside Christmas lights and extension cord's connections in baggies to protect against GFCI trips but was lazy this year and just squirted some of that grease into the socket...wow it worked! better than the baggies in fact lol.
I ran out of time to run wires before spraying before the fall weather came. Now I have to cut channels in to place the wires. The plus side is that the wires are easier to access.
I really wish someone would do some tests using chassis ground. You have this giant chunk of metal that very well likely is well ground (or should be) and you’re running twice as much copper it seems just to handle your return.
Chuck PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make the video you mentioned planning on making in a prior one about deleting unnecessary wires! WE NEED IT! Love your content. Thanks for all you do
I have been really enjoying your videos, but I would love to see some work on a smaller bus - like a shuttle bus or transit style. I'm sure a lot transfers over but curious what tips and tricks you've found! I'm currently working on a ford 7.3 diesel shuttle bus to convert for a tour bus for my band. It's been a blast!
Could you do a video on all the steps of a build in the order you recommend? Like buy the bus, demo, roof raise, windows, floor insulation, that’s where I’m getting nervous on our build. wall and ceiling insulation but you need the floor plan pretty close to finalized. And need plumbing in there…it would be great to have a list in the order to be able to check off and know exactly what step is next so we can re watch that video. Also where is your shop and how do we book with you? If we run into an issue and need help. We are pretty good diyers but some is overwhelming lol
Hi chuck will you be building schoolies for a while yet? Look to get one this summer and your my first pick something like regret lysis but a few changes and what do you think of propane incinerator toilts?
Incineration septic is the only acceptable septic in protected lands like the Adirondack Park. I hate the idea of carrying around septic. It’s disgusting and too much work for my disabled self.
interesting re "split loom" similar to what we in Australia call "corro" or "corrogated conduit". Are you saying that in a bus the issue of cables chafing is significant ? I couldnt understand why in the beginning you said you were spraying and had to get all your cables in first. I couldnt understand why you wouldnt just run corro with draw wires. The vibrations must be significant, eh?
What about upgrading the OEM incandescent lights to LED’s such as brake and back up light. Anything out there one can just insert into existing light fixtures
@Chuck Cassady At about 11:30, you hurriedly show a cool 15A outdoor receptical with a weather sealing plug that has a channel it inserts into, but don't mention a name to reference it... All I can find are cheap stiff plastic-ey junk. Any help is appreciated!
Hi! I'm wiring my bus with 50a shore power, and had a question about the wire to use when connecting the inlet to the breaker box. I have 4 gauge AT-8000 (aluminum) someone gave me. From what I've read, this can be used, but I just don't see anybody using it. Copper is the convention, but do you have any experience using aluminum for this application?
That was incredibly helpful. Chuck I’m curious if that line of wires running to the back rail lights is the only thing you’ve got that connects to the bus battery? Also is it possible to use that with the exterior light monitor thing that’s above the driver seat? My 1991 TC2000 has a big wire bundle running underneath the bus all the way back. Is this replacing that or is that something else?
Thank you Chuck for all the great information. I am right behind you on my build and I am incorporating all your awesome techniques as I move along. Will you tell me what gauge that seven conductor trailer wire is for all the tail lights?
My solar panels have designated mounting holes, that probably won’t exactly line up with the 90 degree location for the L brackets and the racks. How would you recommend handling that?
Thanks for all the great info. I would be really interested in paying for your advice and purchasing products concerning the wiring of my bus. What is the best way to get in touch with you?
I don't agree with Chuck on schoolie wiring. Personally I see no need to remove bus wiring. Some connections in bus wiring I would disconnect. As for wiring my bus, I will use the current channel above the windows ( driver side ) to rum my AC power source. I see no reason to rid the DC bus wiring.
The only thing I see that you could do better, give some extra slack on those runs, not only will it allow the wires to not rub and vibrate the sheathing off where they cross other things, but if someone does run a screw in, it will allow the wire to move out of the way instead being tight and have to let the screw run thru it. Electrical lines need to be droopy and with extra length, not tight like a guitar string.
I don't like putting the plumbing in the walls if I can help it. In this bus all the plumbing will be run behind cabinetry and under a section of raised floor
I would like to come work for. I'm retired military so you don't have to pay me. I just want learn how to do everything. Text me back and I will be there.
How many people have asked when you're going to change the name to 'This Old Bus' ? there's something sunday-morning-coffee-relaxing feeling going on with your intro...
I really like the under the chair rail idea for the 4 gauge... Thank you for giving away this very valuable info! May all these other 'professional' builders take some notes and elevate their game!
Nice, as an electrician it seems to all make senses. Only suggestion make sure to leave at minimum 6” of stripped wire coming out of your boxes. (A) it’s electrical code (B) nothing greasier than working on short wires coming out of an box like it was run by a homeowner in 1957 like they were paying for the wire by the millimetre or something. Also I wouldn’t worry too much about the AC and DC being too close except for communication ccts. It’s just AC induction they are worried about but isn’t too big of a deal. How do you guys spice on the busses?
As an Rv’er and long time fixer up’er, tinkerer and master of only a few of the trades - I like to see what others are doing and how! You are doing the “community a great service! As I’ve installed thousands of feet of electrical cable, I only have one comment on your very well done install. Remembering these “mobile units” go over VERY difficult surfaces at speeds not experienced by a sticks and bricks(S&B) house - I would recommend more relieve in your wire runs. I understand your “conserving” mode of wire runs, but the lack of strain relive is a major reason wire falls in these situations. Also, even in S&B builds, there is code for having so many inches of strain relieve for wire connections. PLEASE - look into this as you don’t want to have to repair your work in the future! Keep up the great work and service to the mobile community! Thanks!
thanks! if i werent encasing them compeltely in foam, i would certainly do things differently, but the wires will be fully supported everywhere! one reason I love spray foam
I don't think he was referring to the support of the wires, but rather pointing out how tight all your wire runs are from box to box. There should be some (2" to 3") slack at each box to allow for movement of the wires without pulling on the box connections/connectors if ever the body of the bus bends/twists whevener going over uneven or rough roads. Love the videos and have gathered several good tips from them. Will be doing one of these in the near future. First raise roof, then I have 4 years to complete the rest on my own.
@@timdupont3227 i can see why you'd say that, but if the bus is flexing that much, then tile, cabinetry, and the whole works are going to be in sad shape too. In the 8 years of doing it just this way, we've yet to see those issues, so i feel confident. to each their own!
Have you looked into electric vehicles that will allow you to get off pavement? I recommend them to all my friends. You could ride it up a ramp and store indoors.
Charlie I've been doing your way for years and the Marine wire is the only way to go we have always called it boat cable but it's all the same as long as it's tinned and it's stranded great explanation on how it's done right .
I rewatch your videos every so often as I get each little step accomplished. So much info! If you run out of video ideas it would be cool to learn how to wire that 7-wire cable with the brake lights, etc. How do you know how high to put your electrical outlets (a/c and d/c)? Thanks again!
