LOW-BUCK, AUTO PART STORE OIL VS VS HIGH $ SYNTHETIC! 0W-10 VS 20W-50. POWER FROM AN OIL CHANGE? 

thnx

Can confirm. My clapped out crap tends to clunk less with good oil and also enough oil in the sump.

For me, oil viscosity is dictated more by oil pressure (both cold and hot) than anything else. And as mentioned above, that's usually a result of the engine's bearing clearances. For example, I had one engine with tight tolerances, and had to run 0w20 to keep the oil pressure below 100 psi. I've had other engines that needed 10w50 to prevent low oil pressure when hot.

Heh, crazy thought ,but what if a couple quarts were changed with some diesel fuel? I wonder if wear would go up too much to see any power increase because of major friction, or would it be worth a few ponies (there's still gonna be some heavy wear going on)

Thats best case scenario, worse case scenario, it stops up your oil pump. Happens sometimes, I say only use when you absolutely need it.

Well the W number only matters for cold temperature starting/oil flow. You could run a 0w40 and a 10w40, at aprx. 100C/210F oil temp they will both work as a 40 grade if oil is in good condition. In the case of people running stone-cold engines on the drag strip, that has to be terrible for engine wear and life. I recall an engine test where they showed that a lower temp t-stat makes more power. But running a stone-cold engine hard is totally different, think of the piston to wall clearance when cold, and also the extra valve clearance, kinda abusive to the valvetrain to spin high rpm like that. I do know some of the drag guys making big power run filled or partially filled blocks for added strength, which would be a factor. I think many people forget about oil operating temp too, it is important in selecting an oil. All other things being equal, a drag engine should use a thinner oil than say, a endurance race engine or powerboat race engine, because the oil temp will probably never get as high, only running hard for a few seconds. I have heard the same with ring gap from a uti instructor/engine builder years ago, where an endurance/boat engine may need for gap due to sustained high temps. He also talked about how a thrown together turbo engine with insufficient ring gap may survive on the drag strip, but could blow up on the street or racetrack, because on the drag strip it may not run hard long enough to bind the ring gaps.

I appreciate that!

aussie, aussie, aussie

Change your rear gear ratio first. 3.42 or 3.55’s will feel like you added 100 hp.

I remember seeing that test done. David freiburger maybe

engine masters full episode on that

too much oil decreases both power and oil control

@@richardholdener1727 people at engine masters tested it. The more you have in the pan the lower the horsepower. Also as far as I know too much oil can foam it up and you lose pressure.

Its like an horizontal oil tornado in there.....

how do you come across 2 60L barrels of oil lol

You run that thin of oil in a Ford 5.4 and you'll not like results with timing chain

@@MonzaRacer ... and when the engine loses compression on a cylinder and dies prematurely you will know for sure it was due to 0w20 weight oil. These light oils serve no real purpose, they only serve to help the manufacturer lower his CAFE average and keep the engine off the road after 200k miles.

@@paulg444 From what I’ve heard 0 20 is great for na 4 cylinders but for a turbo v8 I’m not sure with the hotter temps

It depends on the oils film strength. Just because it's a light or lighter viscosity doesn't "necessarily" mean it's film strength is not adequate. The big time race teams use a light viscosity for qualifying, then switch to a somewhat heavier viscosity for the race. Heck the new Toyota's are calling for 0W16 and Honda & GM are calling for 0W20. I've heard it said that heavier oils create more heat at the bearings as it kinda like piles up in front of the bearings. I've been using 5w30 premium synthetics in my ford's that call for 5W20 with good results and they all have lots of miles on them and still start really nice in our extreme cold winters too. I use 10W30 premium synthetic in my pickup because it's over a quarter million miles and that works well there too. But I wouldn't use anything heavier than probably 5 or 10W30 in anything built in the last thirty ish years, unless it's really worn out. Street use, everyday drivers I'm talking here. If it's a hot rod, race engine then go by bearing clearances n stuff for adequate oil pressure I think.

Had a 92 Dakota 5.2. VR1 20W50 was the only thing that wouldn't burn and kept it going strong with good oil pressure! 🤣

@masoncampos7043 loĺ my 2.2 only sipped 10w-40 but 5w-30 made for 7 mile forced oil changes lol

@@michaelwhite7568 my 2.5 chrysler turbo uses up 5w-40 rotella t6 within 2000 miles. I drive her hard tho

@srirachasauce8430 turbo and nitrous miles live in a seperate time frame. 2000 is really great... unless you say Freightliner or Peterbuilt. Lol then it's time for an inframe

OIL BATH EACH TIME

When the Shelby Cobra GT 500 was released in America for the first time, it called for some low visc oil, meanwhile over seas, the same engine called for 20w50 IIRC.

@@DarkLinkAD It was 5W50 full synthetic. I know because I worked for Ford.

and yet the power changed with 1 il change

@richardholdener1727 On the synthetic versus conventional is where you'll never see a change in a single change due to the film that clung to the various metals by the previous additive pack. But as you showed there's surely power to be gained with the thinner oil. You'll also usually see a great oil temp change which is what most use now to determine correct oil weight

In a positive displacement pump, the same volume of oil is moving, regardless of viscosity. Assuming the oil isn't cold and thick, causing the pump to bypass bleed oil back into the sump before ever going to the filter. There are happy mediums. Many guys judge oil by the most oil pressure, as higher viscosity causing more pressure -- all things being equal. But, higher pressure can actually mean restriction. There is a happy spot between hydrodynamic wedge being sufficient, and too much restriction. 5w30 is probably excellent for your summer oil change, and 5w30 winter. If you're an easy driver, don't hammer is much, or tow very heavily ever, a quality 5w20 is fine too. Hard to go wrong in that range, provided it's changed 5k miles or less. Guy I work with has a 2010ish dodge with the small v8. He's used 5w20 non-synthetic since new and has almost 300k miles on it. Even though those two oils are 5W, they fall in different ranges of that allowance. 5w20 does flow a little bit better in cold than 5w30.

M1 oil filters are too restrictive.

@@MrEntTv Never had a problem with them.

You just haven't checked your oil pressure. I gained 15psi from M1 to AC Delco filter with no change in oil weight on an L92 V8. M1 oil is alright though.

I just did one on my 6.0, can't be mad at the results. Especially 534 ft lbs of tq

@@CLEEPER1 i put one on my ls6 too. I was just wanting to see results. What did you do to your 6.0 to get that tq?

@@HioSSilver1999 11.35 compression, ls3 heads with valve job and bowl blending only, tight quench of .037,rod mod ls3 intake and a mild cam. 227/237_ .621/.604 113.5+4 , crank scraper ,

@@CLEEPER1 probably all in that rod modded ported ls3 intake 😁🤣 How's life been on the Mississippi?

@@HioSSilver1999 messaged you on signal

should be fun

Conveniently left that out to keep sponsors happy lol

Even some bone stock vehicles ive driven, would make a noticeable vibration/noise at idle when only .5quart off. I can only imagine that compounded.

sparkly stuff in the break in lube?

I KNOW LAKE-HE IS GOOD PEOPLE AND IS VERY SHARP. THIS TEST WAS ONLY ABOUT POWER

2 quarts in an ls is getting pretty low

My LM7 has a shortened oil pan for ground clearance. With stock oil level (therefore reduced volume), I braked at the end of the 1/8th, the oil surged, light came on and wrecked the bearings.

part of the fun-sensation of speed and chaos

the oil weight would be based on your combo of bearing clearances and pump

@@richardholdener1727 I'm not sure what the bearing clearances are since the short block was machine and assembled by Ford Racing. I have a high volume, blueprinted oil pump from Precision oil pumps.

Try aviation oil. Additive are what matter.

thick as a brick

@@richardholdener1727 yes I have 5w30 and the car won't turn over

Had 73 2.6 liter capri with 20w50 and same temperature it would start barely but it start

-25F to 110+F in NY and most all the fleets use 15w-40 Rotella in barrels.

@@DarkLinkAD but my sho won't start with 20w50 in minuse 30 would ever turn lol

CHECK THEIR CLEARANCES AND FILM STRENGTH REQUIREMENTS

just trying to get more lift

that was just a photo-the idle pressure was much higher

ME TOO

Not so much in a LS. Look at the oiling system design. It only filters about 20-30% of the oil from the pump I think it is. And if I recall its on the return side

@@masoncampos7043 freely acknowledge that i know sod all about details of the LS platform. All my background is ye olde skool.

post filter

HOW DID YOU WEAR RINGS OUT WITH ENGINE SPEED?

Mr Holdener, I'm not 100 percent sure. But with the d16 3.54 stroke and 9200 rpm, the ring seal would go away every 6 months or so. Power would fall off. Hone and fresh rings, power would be back to normal on the dynojet

This was a Dyno mule to be clear. This d16 got beat nearly daily on the dynojet chasing HP, and drag raced.

@@kylemilligan752 D16 rod ratio is poor compared to b-series stuff, and that 90mm stroke is longer than a B18 to boot. Plus D-series engines have big issues with oil temperatures without a cooler. Ovalling out the bores is not hard at 7500 rpm, let alone 9000+, lol

@@ChurchAutoTest Sorry if I sidetracked things. I first noticed it burning oil, and HP was down at high rpm. I thought maybe thicker oil would crutch it. Saw a loss. Switched to even thicker oil to verify the trend. The loss to windage was significant at high rpm. After a hone and fresh rings HP came right back to baseline. I just accepted that as a price of doing business with a long stroke, high piston speed combo with really thin rings. No big deal.

oil temp was the same

No it's not, but little to no pressure = little to no flow or volume..

Yeah but with enough reynolds wrap, 15 hippies and a basic calculator, you can send a tin foil hat to the moon. If only we still had the tech..

the factory bypass valve doesn't open at the tested pressures (except cold), the oil viscosity is what changed things

@@richardholdener1727 it's a spring and plunger set for like 60 psi ... Usually it only is needed cold because of the oil weight used but it is there all the time and should have controled the pressure ... So either it's stuck or that oil could not get through the bearings hardly at all and bypass was not big enough ... In either case the loss of HP is mostly do to the pressure load on the pump not how the oil is working in the engine or windage which is the main reason people use thin oil ... Not a good test ... If you used a 70s engine the result would have been opposite and thick oil would have won because the thin oil would have no pressure and lifters would start pumping down

the (over) pressure relief valve is higher than the test pressures here