I use cloth j hooks and a few 2x6 . Once those front wheels hit the edge of bed that puppy getting tilted. This guy is doing it right, time makes a difference in taking care of customers vehicle.
Stack 3 planks on each side 4x8 lift the bed and than put the wood under the bed ,bring the bed down and your good the wood won’t move and you have your self a small bridge on each side✌️
you just need 2*6 5ft long and make a hole in the wood and bed and get a pin to lock in together never ever move up or down again! if you towing Lamborghini add extra 4 foot wood and lock in to the other wood with the pin that’s it
@@izzyslzr A bridle is the part you attach to the cable hook and it is then attached to the car. It's reffered to as a V shape bridle. It will have a cluster of hooks or J hooks only to attach to the vehicle. I have 4 different bridles on my truck.
Damn 😳 Just had my car towed the other day, specifically asked for something for low profile. Dude didn’t really care & scratched the hell out of the bottom of the front fender.. Wish I had your help instead!
"So it don't hit the spoiler" and its touching the spoiler as you are talking about it hitting it?!? I not bashing just found the humor of it. Peace love and more love
You guys look scared shitless!!! its just a car load time 5 mins tops. No damage. I wouldn't even had the customer sign a damage waiver. All straps no chains. That's a quick $100 tip + tow bill where I come from. Learn to use your wood LMFAO.
Pete Vigil yea is it it me or does this look ass backwards ? I'm trying to get my tow license soon and I found some good info on here but this one is fucking discouraging
surprised that there isn't a buttload of comments on this. probably everyone fell asleep. my truck and my slider wedges would scoop up the front end and allow easy access to attach chains and cable. winch it while lifted and tilt it down as it goes, keeping the cable off the air dam. the back tires reach the bed and up she goes, easy peasy. JerrDan beds have tremendous capabilities and can help you do that job without all that lumber shuffle.
John Worrell show a vid of it,, I'd like to see it do. The wrecker driver quit and I went from the spare driver to the full time so I'm trying to learn what I can thanks,,
Randall Rougeau ... Wish I could, bro. I'm a low tech old man and work alone. The truck I run at the moment is an International 4300 (2006) with a JerrDan 21' bed that has the upsweep at the last couple feet of the back end. It's capable of getting under most cars' front ends, using what a friend described as inchworming. Despite the ability, some cars have a little too low and long noses, such as the Viper. Most of those are flexible enough to give way a bit and allow the bed to get under the tires. For the few that you don't want to touch the air dam, I had a welder fab up two plate steel devices. using 1/4" X 4" bar stock, I designed them to be 2' long with the wedge part starting at the mid-point being an inch and a quarter high and tapering to the end with a small gusset in the middle to make sure that they can't flatten out due to vehicle weight. For the car in the video, I would place the wedges in front of the tires and position the truck close enough that when I tilt and slide the bed, it comes down to the wedges and still has more to extend. This is where it gets tricky. The car has to be held in place by the rear tires, using the transmission in park or reverse if it's a manual plus locking on the parking brake. I put a 4X4 block behind the left rear tire as a bit of insurance. Once that's done, I push the bed slide back against the wedges' vertical points. The bottom of the end of the bed rides on top of the plates. As the bed pushes the wedges under the tires, it is necessary to ease the downward pressure on the plates by tilting the bed up just a bit. Eventually, the bed reaches full extension and needs to be drawn in a bit. Again, this is a bit tricky. The bed tilt is raised in the front until it brings the truck's rear tires off the ground. Slide the bed "forward" and it will pull the truck back. You have to watch the degree of tilt to keep from pressing the car's air dam. The bed should be able to be pushed back some more, moving the wedges past the tires, and then they're on the bed. At this point, using the wheellift as a support, the car's front end can be hoisted up and the bed stretched all the way back with the car up angled. In this position, you now have enough room to roll under the car and find the right places to attach your bridle and cable. I hook up the driver's side first, then the passenger side, pulling the slack cable toward the passenger side of the bed. I use the passenger side levers to take up the slack and be sure that the tilt has the cable low enough to not press the air dam. Sometimes it is necessary to slide a block behind the dam on top of the cable. This is also tricky because you don't want the block to press into anything other than framework. Once set, the cable is snugged and it's time to release the rear tires. The transmission and parking brake are freed up and winching the car begins. As the car comes forward, the bed gets tilted toward the ground, lifting the wheellift as you go. When the car is halfway up the bed (+/-), the wheellift can be fully raised and the bed tilt can do all the adjustments. Bring the back tires up the bed and slide the bed up to the tilt point for lock clearance. Grab the block that was behind the left rear tire and put it in front of the same tire. Now you can tilt the bed down to just a slight up angled position, allowing you to move the car backward if needed to find the right places to attach your rear chains. I try to cross them in the back to prevent lateral shifting of the car due to bumpy corners. Once the rear chains are attached, pull the car up the bed to the spot you want to anchor it and set the chains for tightening it in place. I take up the slack and make sure both sides are equally tightened, not over tightened. Set the parking brake and safeties and you're ready to go. Unloading is a bit different from the loading. The wedges are designed to be pushed under the car but not to be pulled back out. What seems to be the best thing for me to do is invert them and let the car roll onto the flat ends, holding them on the bed. Once they're locked down, the car's parking brake can be applied and the winch attachment removed. Get in the car and let it roll back slowly off the wedges. Done. This narrative took a long time to write but the process it describes only takes minutes. The phone number on your truck indicates that you're in NC. I'm across the country in the arid area. As to lumber, I do carry a good amount to accomplish loading about anything and the wedges are just part of the adaptive equipment I have and use. I would like to make a demo video sometime but I don't know how to do it yet. I've only recently switched from a flip phone.
