ok things are starting to slow down in life.. i sooo got to build me more regens.. there soooo much fun even if they dont work great or what have you... to think a voice is reproduced thru the electrons and yet the same tone of voice is still heard. soooo cool radio is ..
I've always wound coils for regenerative receivers with the GRID on top and the PLATE on the bottom. On the schematic, I show the tickler on top, but physically it's actually UNDER the tuned coil. This is the way I've always seen it in the handbooks. IT WORKS. Perhaps with the tickler wound on the COLD end of the tuned coil you might need a few more turns, BUT regeneration is usually more stable this way.
Yes that is possibility a more stable feedback point, especially for for top coupled (trimmer) input types. But the input link or primary is going there ( at the cold side) as you will see in Part 4.
@@MIKROWAVE1 I've seen examples where the antenna coil is inter-wound with the cold end of the grid coil, or is a separate winding just below the tickler. Yet another idea is to have a grounded grid RF stage ahead of the regen detector. In this case the tuned coil is in the plate of the RF stage and the detector grid leak resistor goes to ground instead of across the coupling capacitor.
Yo Im obsessed wit that stuff dawg. I built my first tube regen using two 1T4 RCA tubes, first valve was an untuned RF amp and the second was a regenerating grid-leak detector pentode, but my tuning coil only went from 700khz-1700
I can't hardly wait for the next regen video. I'm building a FET regen and have problems with the AM broadcast band getting thru my detector and the signal is very low.
Hey Mike...Thanks for the great videos, especially the ones on regen receivers. I just wanted to let you know the two-tube audio amp you use in the your video works great. I put it together yesterday and it worked first try. I'm using it with a regen receiver I originally built in 1972 and recently rebuilt last month. The volume is almost equal to the LM-386 amp I had been using. Thanks again and best 73/72 - wa4chq
Mike, the winding of these coils is driving me crazy. Many coils are wound in the same direction, but I encountered an article in the August 1932 issue of Short Wave Craft where the coils are wound in the opposite direction, as you state at 24:14. In this case, wouldn't you just swap the connections instead of rewinding the coil?
Why not use PVC pipe for the coil form instead of a cardboard tube so as to making the coil build more repeatable for others building the same? Also, why not measure the inductance of both coils to verify the range they need to be for AM broadcast band?
Why not? PVC - sure. And everybody wants exact coil data. But coil data is notoriously suspect, because of all of the variables - form type and diameter, wire size, loading... . Have you ever followed coil instructions only to find you need to add or remove 20 turns to actually make it work? In the Morgan Regen for instance it actually takes two plug in coil to cover the entire range. And the data in the book is way off.
@@MIKROWAVE1 Yes, I understand, however, why not use an inductance meter, or universal component tester to at least measure the inductance of the coil. This would allow adjustments to other small variations while trying to build a duplicate.
@@Tony770jr I will measure the coil as pruned. You may remember I started with 70 turns on the Secondary and 30 or more on the Tickler. The pentode required less turns on the Tickler. Oh and I will do it at 1 MHz frequency using a generator and voltmeter using the resonance method. I will post it on the radio resources page. I would not expect good results from a meter measuring at 10 kHz, but some good quality LCR meters should work fine.
That is a great question and not everyone's convention is conventional! Generally if you see nothing, it is always pF. 100 is 100 pF, 4700 is 4700 pF or 0.047 uF. Anything with a decimal is uF. So 0.1 or just .1 is 0.1 uF or 100 nF and. 01 is. 01 uF or 10nF. By the way nanofarad or nF is a fairly recent unit that started showing up in the 1980's.
It should work fine at 24 VDC. Voltage control as shown here is noisy and a bit crude, but it is cheap and guaranteed to work at low voltages, since you are just increasing the voltage till it works. With a throttle cap, you would have to test for the sweet voltage spot and adjust the tickler turns to get it into the right range for the throttle cap to work. There is only one system better than the proven Throttle Capacitor technique that you are describing. And that is variometer feedback control. Ever tried that?
I have a FB Support page for the folks who want to ask questions, share experiences, tell me I am completely wrong :) and build and show off their projects. I have loaded all of the support material including BOM, Diagrams and Pictures in high resolution there.
@@MIKROWAVE1 Now that's the ticket! Thank you so much. I'm in the game now! I will stay tuned to see the results of your experimentation. Once you have it all tweaked then I'll source the parts and give it a go. You've done a fantastic job documenting this on your facebook page! Now I can build and hopefully get it running. Then I will go through a explore the theory as you have presented it and use this as a jumping off point for more projects. Thanks again!
