The Baffle Step is a critical design element in every loudspeaker, yet few people have heard of it and even fewer know what it is. Learn from PS Audio's Chris Brunhaver.
Chris seems like a real nice guy. Like he has a softly spoken voice and a clean heart to match. I wish eternal and ultimate success on brother Chris and the rest of the PS Audio family.
Chris you have a wonderful talent to talk about very complicated things with such simplicity. This is why I’m so excited to see/hear your speakers once they are ready.
I have the "New" large Advent era 1982? My passing neighbor gave to me...The surrounds have been replaced but I love the awesome warm acoustic sounds and crisp highs that you can control like you said on your Advents..
@@sting64az lol, yes i have replaced my surrounds 3 times. i have 4 large advents, the audiophile tweak at the time was to 'stack' them. the top 2 are inverted and called 'stacked advents' , sounds great but i'm waiting on ps audio new speaker line, .
@@doylewayne3940 I have just this setup in my small listening room. They sound very good (though I probably could improve the placement) driven by the 2.3W DECware S384UFO Zen amp.
@@cbrunhaver Thanks for your reply. I guess by now I saw at least 100 audiophile videos and I do hobby electronic. That helped me to understood part of what you explained. Recently I also saw some videos from Danny from GR-Research about open baffles. I guess you will agree that your explanation was for experts - and experts only. Many videos from Paul explain complicated things in everyday language for the non-experts. And he does that pretty good - that was my point. But please don't feel discurraged, sometimes it's also great to listen to an expert - even if most of us understand only a little of what was said.
i had the honor of meeting this man the other day☺️ 🙏thank you Chris for taking some time out of your day for a fan🙏 and for giving me homework to do. i truly do appreciate it sir.
Impressive. Remember when book shelf speakers were just that? Now they're put on a pedestal and put out in the room. And now step loss is a problem. Hum?
I think I did something like this adding an inductor in series with the woofer, adjusting the turns to get the point source I wanted in relation to the woofer and midrange using noise.
So, if I have this right, if a loudspeaker's front baffle is, say, 16" wide, then there will be a drop of -6db for everything below approx. 220 Hz (whose wavelength is approximately 160 cm, of which 1/4 would be 40cm = 16")?? I guess my next question would be, is there a point at which it makes more sense to just keep the baffle going wider and wider to avoid the issue?
Paul never saw adjustments to the upper or lower frequencies on a home speaker, my 35 year old Ohm Walsh 2's have adjustments for the low and the high frequencies , The Walsh 5 also had a mid frequency adjustment I think was labeled presence.
Interesting, that must be why my JBL's manual gave specific distances from the front and side wall. Will that baffle step be with an L-pad? I've seen them for Highs and Mids but never for Bass.
Now that was interesting and informative. You mention a dial to finesse the crossover, presumably in the analog domain, for adjustment for the listener's unique listening environment by ear and (more likely) individual sonic taste. Ultimately, the ear/brain remains the only spectrum analyzer, etc. that counts. This sounds (pun intended) like a good thing. Any comments on how this compares with the digital Wavelet technology employed by Legacy and Eicon?
Magnapan speakers provide the ability of the user to install a 1ohm resistor in parallel (?) with the input terminals to attenuate the treble somewhat. Is that a form of shelf adjustment?
I would assume that the resistor does not parallel with the input but instead in series. Any parallel resistance with have a total of less than the lowest resistance. Adding this 1 ohm resistor across the input would pull your load well below 1 ohm.
My baffle is for my 10 inch midbass woofer is 60cm wide and the midrange horn playing from 200-700Hz has a mouth that is 60x60cm, and 55cm deep. I wonder if bffeøstep is even needed here. The horns above 200Hz have their own amplifier and do their own thing.
hi paul, i have a question about active subwoofers, i know that there are cardiod subwoofers and what they are for, what is the use of an ordinary subwoofer whose phase can be reversed? greetings from Belgium
On a scale from 0-128 how accessible is a post production high pass filter? I’m going to guess it approaches 0. Lul I kid. Thanks for this video series :)
Look at the front baffle shape of the Kef LS50's ... that's how you solve baffle step , B&W also solve this problem very elegantly with their spherical shaped mid range enclosure made from Marlon.
@@yuckysamson I am not a fan nor do I generally like his approach to speakers and crossovers.....but Danny over at GR research (you tube) does a great job of explaining baffle step in relation to baffle size and crossovers.
@@lynnpoole7830 Hey Lynne! Yeah I've emailed some stuff with him before, but also Chris here is obviously another fountain of knowledge. Do we know each other, Lynne? Your name is so familiar.....
Drill a hole in your exterior wall and use the outdoors as your speaker box for an infinite baffle and make sure to turn off the music when you hear the police approaching. Well, as a second-best, I'm planning to use my stairway storage room as a speaker box.
@Fat Rat I should have made it clear. This is a single channel subwoofer where such size makes sense and perhaps with a cross-over frequency at 80Hz. Most importantly for a single subwoofer to perform well is that it doesn't produce harmonics or primary tones at frequencies where you can sense the location in the sound-stage. For example, if you make a subwoofer in a stairway and the wall, decorations on the wall or a door vibrates with 2nd or above harmonics, you will start to easily sense where the subwoofer is. Thus some care is needed to make those "speaker walls" become silent and the cross-over needs to be somewhat sharp (the easy part). My current door to that room is too loose for it also and it has air-gaps around it that will create noise. Getting the THD down to somewhere around 1% means removing all such noise contributors. The cool thing is that you can use a very large woofer and potentially also servo-drive it if you want to mess with that.
Always a fun education on speaker design. Truly is in-depth process with physics. Looking forward to your new speakers and will be purchasing at some point in the future.
Blah blah blah, for some reason speaker designers in the past were able to achieve real bass in small speakers. Why in this day in age that is so difficult is beyond my understanding. I think it's marketing and the companies just want us to purchase that extra product(s). Here comes the subwoofer offering.
