Thanks brother, great video. But you sure 7 gradiant is okay between H-L ? Mine is 6.5 ? What shall i do ? Change all 4 actuators ? Pensil-test were all good . Looking forward to hearing from you. Good day. Wube from Ethiopia
@@wubeyilak11 if you flushed and bled the system and are at 6.5, i would call that good as long as no other problems. If it gets high enough for you at H and low enough at L, and you are happy with the normal driving height, call it good
Hello i just disconected the front shockers to evaluate them and them put them back again in place. But, the problem now is that when the shockers were disconected all the suspension fluid from them and the reservoir got empty. After that, we just put 2.5l of suspension fluid back in the reservoir and started the truck but it stayed in low position and didn't get up even to neutral height. We didnt took much care of taking the air out of the system or preventing it from getting inside in the first place. My question is if that maybe be the cause of my system faliure? (Before disconecting the shockers the system was working great) thank you
Maybe it failed or maybe you have a ln air lock in front shocks. Try bleeding againand you can put front suspension lifted in the air to force movement
Tomato/watermelon, close enough for government work! The bottle calls it suspension fluid, but I liked active handling fluid. Makes it sound much mo proper! Lololol
Great video! Fresh AHC fluid makes such a huge difference! Did it on our old 1998 LX470 and it was a great difference. And on our current LX570 I replaced the globes + flushed AHC fluid and it was night and day difference.
I will also wire brush clean and spray bleeder nuts with lubricant penetrating oil a full week before to help loosen rust/deposits as these nuts have been in place for 20 years untouched
Thank you very much for this video, I got 2004 LX470 and will do this job on it. I feel like replacing shocks and struts, what are your recommendation, brand? Thank you.
@maintainersgarage somehow now the ahc changed to low settings by itself l have not done nothing yet but the height control off still flashing do you know anything why it changed from high settings to low settings by itself like that but car driving smoother than it was high 😀
Hi, thank you for helping us out with this video! My question is, just to clarify, before bleeding each globe ( and 1 accumulator ) , do you start the car and put on neutral then set on HIGH mode , then shut off the engine and start bleeding each globe, then repeat again by starting the vehicle, put on neutral then set on high mode, shut off the vehicle, until each globe gets clear fluid out? I think your method is better than other videos here.
and of course filling up the reservoir with new fluid, i just wanted to know if you have to start the vehicle 5 or more times to clear each globes and accumulator.
@@TheLansang thank you for the compliment. You have the vehicle running and go into HIGH. Then when the vehicle is at HIGH turn it off. Bleed the (1) thing at a time. Before it hits the bump stop, stop the bleed. Then make sure fluid is full then start the vehicle it will go back to HIGH. Then bleed that (1) thing again until clear fluid comes out. Then move to the next (1) item and repeat. Normally this will take 2 times per (1) item. For approx 10 total cycles. Hope that helps. Any questions please ask
Hello, any idea what to do if I broke off my rusty bleeder screw on the Height Control Accumulator? All other 4 bleeder screws came loose but broke the one. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks and great video.
Wouldn't it be easier to flush all actuators and the acumulator completly all together while the vehicle stays at LOW, start it, wait for the new fluid to fill the system (minding the reservoir level), turn off and just bleed a little each of the components untill the ne new AHC fluid comes out and then fill reservoir to specs when the vehicle is lifted to NORMAL. I know it is safer to level it each time after each bleed but the whole flush takes about 2,5 L so filling initially the reservoir with 2L will do the job enough to level it adding that 0.5L after the flush is done at NORMAL setting.
Easier? I am not sure. How much fluid would come out at LOW vs NORM? At LOW, you may not get all of the old fluid and air bubbles out of the line going to each actuator/accum when it hits the stops. Then you would have to start the vehicle and raise it. Could it possibly be easier, YES. But, I followed the service manual to help prevent mistakes!
@@maintainersgarage The FSM trurly states to bleed the components in N mode but kinda messes the info about re-pressurising the system after bleeding each actuator/accumulator. It says to perform bleeding for damping force control actuator on the left or right rear side and then to repeat the process with height adjusting for left and right damping force control actuators alternately (which is what You did). I saw people doing it in L mode (more old fluid sucked out of reservoir) and then bleeding all of the components at once as the wehicle stays in L mode (as the actuators are linked together hydrolicly when the wheels stay straight), then starting the vehicle WITHOUT adjusting the height to N mode - just re-pressurising the system and putting the new AHC fluid into it, shutting off and then performing the "clean" bleed and finally adjusting the height and fluid level in the reservoir. And it worked like a charm.
@@Xplorer.Adventures that is exactly how I did it today. Did it in low mode. Got it all done no issues, clean fluid she rises and falls in each mode like butter.
I guess I also need to change the rear globes. In order to change them shoul I bleed all the fluid out first? and can you please share the genuine fluid number id Thanks.
That is a very comprehensive instruction video, Thank you very much. How do you know when to stop the outflow? Can you tell by the color of the fluid, or by the volume in the bottle? I am considering getting one of these LX470. Are there serious problems I should be aware of, please ?
Yes you can see change in old fluid vs new. Basically the color change is when you stop, also should be a smooth flow of fluid with no air bubbles. The lx470 is VERY reliable. The active handling system is 1 area i would check. Also making sure timing belt was done at least every 100,000 miles. But, if vehicle is neglected, it could need more
Do the wheels have to be on the ground or on a lift like a wheel alignment lift where all 4 wheels are on the lift? Some lifts attach to the frame and the wheels are hanging free.
Thanks. I've been told it's best to start at the rear though (both sides) and the front after that. Thanks for posting this! How much fluid did you end up using in total with this flush?
Hello sir .. I have a 2006 land cruiser with AHC SYSTEM wondering if this system has shocks and struts that could be changed cause I have a lot of nose dive when I push on the brakes, other than that I don't see any problems with the AHC system.. I will appreciate your input on this matter .. Thank you sir
Yes you can change out the hydraulic shocks can be changed, rock auto and others sell them. Also can buy "Old Man Emu" suspension. Replaces all the hydraulic shocks
Video was really helpful - BUT - as I have been bleeding the different bits etc the fluid is very aerated - I can't get it to the point when the fluid just plain liquid. Do I have another issue with the system??
@Robert Whitwell yes you could have a small air leak in a fitting or shock or something else in the system. If you can't see any fluid leak and your reservoir does not need any fluid added to it in 2 months or longer, then I would not be overly concerned. You put fresh fluid in the system and don't have an active fluid leak, suspension system will still function. Now, it will not be 100% and I CAN'T tell you if it is 40% or 75%. But, I can tell you if you have no vibration while driving, steering feels tight, and if you check each wheel for play/movement at 3&9 and 12&6 and you have none I think you will be ok for normal street driving. But, my opinion is NOT a guarantee and you have to make your own choices
@@maintainersgarage Thanks for the reply. I will get another tin of fluid and try bleeding again. I have inspected everywhere and cannot see any leaks and the wheels and steering are fine - it also rides fine too. The car has done 400,000 kms and I have had it since 2000 when it had 60k on it. It has been a fantastic vehicle - I only use it now for towing my tri-axle race car trailer. I do a lot of my own mechanical work and just can't understand why I am getting this aeration of the fluid. The fluid level was very low - I'll see if has settled down with the tank at the correct level.
@@robertwhitwell4849 Oh, yeah if you had it that long and do your own maintenance I am sure it is ok. It could easily be a seal on a shock that is allowing air in and not fluid out. I am SUPER jelly on the race trailer!!
I did notice a smoother ride in the 2 comfort settings. I have not noticed changes in the 2 sport settings. I would flush it before globe change if you have no leaks
@@hamzahabits7912 if front and back are stuck at low, i would think pump. Make sure you have AHC fluid 1st. Then check for leaks. Then set AHC to HIGH and listen to hear pump operating. If pump not working check fuses. Then i would look at shock or accumulator
