Hello Mr. FNT - All looks good with this video. Glad you got the orange koala-claw goo!! It does not matter whether you re-assemble the intake manifold with it off of the engine or in the Vee. I installed my ETA and such with the intake off of the engine, but everything is pretty accessible even with it installed on the engine. Being out of the engine gives you a little more "side access" for the ETA and such. The one thing that I did when mating the two halves together was to get in there with a flashlight and MAKE SURE that each donut ring was sealing all the way around. The reason for this is that about 10 years ago, when doing an M117 (same identical donut rings), I had ONE RING that had a few mms that was bent in, and I had an air leak upon starting up the engine after I'd completed the job. So I had to remove the intake manifold and find the air leak that was getting past the throttle body and KE-Jet injection air plate, and causing the engine to idle at around 1,000 RPM. But a smoke test found the culprit, and then I remedied it. Culprit was here: www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/how-to-5-6-liter-m117-top-end-rebuild.559/post-5575 One thing to note when you install the front crank seal -- you are going to want to insert it to a depth that is slightly (2 mm or so) offset from where the original crank seal was. This is so that the new seal's sealing surface contacts the crank snout in a different position, in case the old crank seal wore a slight groove on the snout. This will help ensure that the new seal gives a nice tight oil-leak-free contact on the crank. There should be plenty of room to adjust that depth, and I'd also check the crank snout with your fingernail to see if there is a groove or scored area from the old seal ... and again avoid that area if so with the new seal. Miss your buzz haircut like you had in the early M119 videos !! It's summer time, easier to work with short hair!
Thank you! I did check the donut seals on the intake manifold and they're all good. One thing that helped me was putting on the donuts dry on one side and lubed the other so the dry side stayed put and the lubed side slid right on. I did check the crankshaft and there doesn't seem to be any wear on the shaft. It's really smooth. I do need a haircut although I don't thing I'll go as short as I had it. I've had buzzed hair for around 20 years and the last time I cut it was the first time in just as long that I actually went to get a haircut.
@@FriendlyMBTech This happened to pop up on my forum. Gives you an idea of all the bolts that require sealant. Note the stud when re-mounting the transmission that is mentioned, as well as the one bolt on the tandem pump/power steering pump bracket. www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/sealing-engine-bolts.16642/
Man!!! you should've cleaned tf outta that Intake! soo gunky!! that gunk cause the ticking noise! I am going to take the intake apart on both of my M119's after watching this video!
What was in the intake was barely a light film. It wasn't worth the time. And I don't see how gunk would cause a ticking noise. The only ticking noise it had was slightly after getting it drivable for the first time. One of the lifters was a little sticky. Now it runs quieter than our new cars.
@@FriendlyMBTech My 98 SL500 which I purchased it 2 years back has been having sticking valve issue! Don't drive it much since purchased did maybe 2 oil changes until yesterday! I added 8 oz of Seafoam in the old used up oil brought it to temp drained it changed the filter, put it new ( cheaper ) oil drove it around about 20 miles added sea foam let it run for a bit drained it! changed the filter added expensive oil! Still ticking! used the spay seafoam can stuck the tube past the mas sensor thru the mesh up top 2k RPM sprayed 1 minute ticking noise GONE! proceeded to use half the can! this morning on cold start ticking noise was there but barley! once warmed up noise gone! I think I am going to take the intake apart and clean the living hell out of it!
@@musicman5299 that could also be the previous oil changes and seafoam in the oil doing it's magic. I physically checked each lifter before installing them. I put that in a video. I had to use 8 lifters from the original engine to get good functioning ones. Otherwise my cost is about $35 each.
Well after further review my engine runs but I have traced a rather large coolant leak to a puddle underneath the intake manifold. I’ve checked both rear hoses and used a borescope to try and find a source but I have only been able to find the puddle. So my question is how to remove the small front coolant hose with the engine in the car? I’m planning to use an assistant once I have things removed. But that coolant hose worries me.
@@FriendlyMBTech oh yes I see what you describe. Not too bad. So it looks like I failed to torque the rear inside manifold bolt on the drivers side and the coolant there is easily blowing by the intake gasket into the V and running out the rear drain hole. Buying two new gaskets and more fun.
